FIRST, buy a bushing driver bit from Brownell's:
www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=493&title=MAGNA-TIP%7e+1911+AUTO+BUSHING+DRIVER?%20BITSThis bit supports the bushing, prevents tearing it up, and helps prevent stripping the frame threads.
Look closely at the bushings and try to spot if they've been Loctited in. A faint line of Red, Blue or another color indicates a thread locker was used.
Look at the back of the bushing to try to spot if they've been staked in place.
If you suspect thread locker was used, warm the bushing up to around 350 degrees. DO NOT OVER HEAT. Thread locker breaks down at 350, so if you warm them up to that temp for a few minutes, the locker will degrade and you can extract the bushing.
Again DO NOT OVER HEAT.
A hobby size soldering iron will work fine and won't over-heat the parts.
Apply a squirt of Kroil to the bushing as a lubricant.
Use the bushing driver to attempt to unscrew the bushing.
If the bushing starts to unscrew, then gets tight again, it may have been staked.
If you suspect this, make sure you've got Kroil on it, screw it back in, then out again until it gets tight, then back again.
Each time, try to get the bushing out a little more.
This progressive in and out technique will "Iron" the staking out.
After you've got the bushings out, use lacquer thinner and a pipe cleaner to thoroughly clean and degrease the holes in the fame, and the new bushings.
Test fit the new bushings to insure they don't stick out inside the magazine well and interfere with the magazine.
The bushing should be flush with the inner wall of the mag well when snugged down.
Dry completely, apply a dab of Loctite Blue, or Red for permanent holding, and screw the bushing in tight.
Allow a full 24 hours for the Loctite to fully cure, then scrub the excess off with hot soapy water and a toothbrush.
Apply lube to prevent rust and you've done a pro gunsmith level job.