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Posted: 3/16/2006 4:46:51 PM EDT
Ok, I'm going to change the grip bushings to slim-lines on my Kobra Carry. I need some help/advice. First off, I should say that I manage to botch up stuff a lot so I'm going to need help. How should I go about getting the old bushings out?
Link Posted: 3/16/2006 9:02:29 PM EDT
I would like to Know also.
Link Posted: 3/16/2006 9:16:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/16/2006 9:22:54 PM EDT by dfariswheel]
FIRST, buy a bushing driver bit from Brownell's:
www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=493&title=MAGNA-TIP%7e+1911+AUTO+BUSHING+DRIVER?%20BITS

This bit supports the bushing, prevents tearing it up, and helps prevent stripping the frame threads.

Look closely at the bushings and try to spot if they've been Loctited in. A faint line of Red, Blue or another color indicates a thread locker was used.
Look at the back of the bushing to try to spot if they've been staked in place.

If you suspect thread locker was used, warm the bushing up to around 350 degrees. DO NOT OVER HEAT. Thread locker breaks down at 350, so if you warm them up to that temp for a few minutes, the locker will degrade and you can extract the bushing.
Again DO NOT OVER HEAT.
A hobby size soldering iron will work fine and won't over-heat the parts.

Apply a squirt of Kroil to the bushing as a lubricant.
Use the bushing driver to attempt to unscrew the bushing.
If the bushing starts to unscrew, then gets tight again, it may have been staked.
If you suspect this, make sure you've got Kroil on it, screw it back in, then out again until it gets tight, then back again.
Each time, try to get the bushing out a little more.

This progressive in and out technique will "Iron" the staking out.

After you've got the bushings out, use lacquer thinner and a pipe cleaner to thoroughly clean and degrease the holes in the fame, and the new bushings.

Test fit the new bushings to insure they don't stick out inside the magazine well and interfere with the magazine.
The bushing should be flush with the inner wall of the mag well when snugged down.

Dry completely, apply a dab of Loctite Blue, or Red for permanent holding, and screw the bushing in tight.

Allow a full 24 hours for the Loctite to fully cure, then scrub the excess off with hot soapy water and a toothbrush.
Apply lube to prevent rust and you've done a pro gunsmith level job.
Link Posted: 3/16/2006 9:19:05 PM EDT
I just changed bushings on two Colts of mine, one had loose bushings due to tightening the slide/frame fit, other pistol had slots on a couple chewed a bit

got the bushing driver bit from Brownell's, to take them out, won't ever use flat screwdriver again

the threads were fine, but spun the bushing tap into the frame a few turns

put a couple drops of red locktite on bushing thread, installed w/driver into frame

used staking tool (Brownell's), 1/8" punch passed thru opposite bushing, have bushing supported w/bench block

instructions called for a whack from light hammer, but took me four good whacks w/1 lb.

I liked the job the Brownell's tools did...

Have a plunger tube staker on the way....
Link Posted: 3/16/2006 9:21:52 PM EDT
Staking AND Loctite is sort of "belt and suspenders" but your bushings aren't going to come out with the screw either.
Link Posted: 3/17/2006 2:59:14 AM EDT
I have always used a grace large screwdriver and some heat, then a soak in MMO overnight never a problem. Works only on loctite bushings. I Have a Mil issue colt lower that no way are those bushings coming out with the stake job the used to do.
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