I am unable to link specific articles from "the sight", a good 1911 reference, but have read some good stuff there. In a couple of spots, they discuss the slide stop and two common causes for premature slidelock.
One is inertia, wherein the stop essentially is bounced up during recoil under it's own weight. The suggested solution to this is either to file a small groove where the plunger meets the stop, or to "dimple" the stop at this point (possibly a drill bit or small grinding ball, which is what I used from my Dremel kit). I did mine just barely, and may do more, but bought the WC Bullet Proof unit partly because it has this feature (not very pronounced though) built in.
The second cause is rounds moving slightly forward in the magazine (generally later rounds, when there is less spring pressure in the mag) and contacting the slide stop inside the frame as they are pushed up. The remedy here prescribed was either as above or to remove some metal on the inside of the stop in the area of contact, enough to stop or reduce contact, but not enough to prevent slidelock on an empty mag. To check this condidtion, it was suggested to remove the slide from the pistol and insert a partially loaded magazine into the mag well. Slide the round forward as it may find itself doing under recoil, then insert the mag further until the bullet nose passes or contacts the slide stop.
I tried a bit of both of these fixes, but was unsuccessful. I removed very little metal, and did not dimple the stop deeply either. Keep in mind, if you mess it up, you may be replacing the slide stop (a rather inexpensve part, around $30 for stock or many aftermarket).
Just because this didn't work for me, doesn't mean it won't for you. It also may work for me if I take the work a bit further. OTOH, I would wonder what Springfield would say if they received a gun that had been worked on in this manner. We may find out with mine.