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Posted: 2/4/2006 11:59:16 PM EDT
Under the direction of a few members on here, (IIRC "The_Gooch" was very helpful in specifics), I finally got the parts in and I swapped out my ILS to put in a standard 19# MS setup.

The results are AMAZING. I really appreciate the help and I can instantly feel a huge difference.

One thing I did notice, is I now have a fair amount of creep in the trigger. Is this gonna be par for the course? Is there anything I can do to aid the situation (short of new parts)? The creep isn't horrible, and I think it was just cloaked by the heavy trigger pull I had before. Now that it is at a decent level, the creep showed up. Just thought I'd ask for suggestions.

Link Posted: 2/5/2006 7:00:00 AM EDT
That's pretty common, and as you said, it was cloaked by the heavier pull. The only way to get rid of creep is to have a properly mated hammer and sear. I don't want to say leave it to a professional, but there is a lot more to a trigger job than just cutting a relief angle on the sear, lowering hammer hooks, and polishing parts. There is a lot of potential for things to go wrong.

There is a trick that is kind of a shortcut, and has very little potential for going wrong. You can sort of force the mating surfaces of the hammer and sear to be more broken in. It's referred to as "boosting" the hammer. You need to put forward pressure on your hammer and pull the trigger. Obviously the gun must be unloaded. Do this about ten time, and it will be like pulling the trigger a thousand times, or so they say.

If you have a commander hammer, you can insert something into the hole to put forward pressure on the hammer. I would use an old aluminum cleaning rod, as a steel one will mar the finish of the hammer, and possibly the back of the slide/extractor. If it's a standard hammer, you might be able to use your thumb, but an easier method is to use a flat shoestring and pull up on the cocked hammer. Boosting is not a sure fired method, but it works about 75% of the time to rid creep.

Anyway, the creep can probably be solved by lowering the hammer hooks to .020", and cutting new angles on the sear. However, I feel the absolute worse factory sears are those on Springfields, and they go dull very fast. Consider taking it to a smith if it bothers you and the boosting does not work.

Link Posted: 2/5/2006 7:32:55 AM EDT
Is boosting "safe". Should I poslish any of the surfaces after doing such a technique? Just courious.

Thanks for the info though, that's VERY helpful. I might just end up giving that a shot.

Link Posted: 2/5/2006 8:48:39 AM EDT
Boosting is safe, but with brittle parts you run a slight risk of breakage.
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