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Posted: 1/21/2006 12:38:08 PM EDT
I mean remove it from the slide and clean the channel as well. I find myself doing it every time I clean and I get a good bit of crud out. Is it possible to do it too often?
Link Posted: 1/21/2006 1:09:00 PM EDT
I just fitted a new Wilson extractor to my malfunctioning Micro Compact SA Loaded. I'd not removed it and cleaned it in 300 rds. I was AMAZED at the amount of crud I found there, after an otherwise thorough cleaning. I suspect that alone may have actually caused the 6 malfunctions I had in the last 200 rounds. I'll now do it every time, or at least spray it with Gun Scrubber...

T Bone (Detroit).

Link Posted: 1/21/2006 2:07:50 PM EDT
How would one go about removing the extractor?
Link Posted: 1/21/2006 2:12:26 PM EDT
I clean mine every time I clean now. I can't say if that is what should be done but it's habit now and it's alot easy keeping it clean on a regular basis instead of trying to do it every once in awhile.

Zakk_Wylde_470 - Tear the end off a q-tip and use it to press down on the firing pin until you can slide the firing pin stop out. Be careful not to launch the firing pin across the room as you slide the stop down. Then simply pry the extractor out a little and pull it straight back.
Link Posted: 1/21/2006 4:48:11 PM EDT
*note to self, start cleaning extractor each time you clean the gun*
Link Posted: 1/21/2006 4:51:28 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Zakk_Wylde_470:
How would one go about removing the extractor?



Pull the firing pin stop and pull the extractor out.
Link Posted: 1/21/2006 5:01:20 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:

Originally Posted By Zakk_Wylde_470:
How would one go about removing the extractor?



Pull the firing pin stop and pull the extractor out.



Get yourself and AR-15 firing pin (its useful for all kinds of cleaning/pushing) or similar

Push firing pin in

Move firing pin stop until it covers the firing pin

point firing pin at something close and soft

Pull firing ping stop the rest of the way

Amaze yourself with how much force firing pin ejects itself

Use either firing pin to gently remove extractor

Clean both holes in slide (your standard Wal-Mart pipe cleaners work extremely well)

Clean the components

The Force (or a third hand) is required for re-installation. [j/k - just take your time]


Having said all that - I perform the above approx every thousand rounds or so (1-2 months for me)
Link Posted: 1/21/2006 5:27:56 PM EDT
Yeah, getting the firing pin stop back in was the only part that was challenging. Had to hunt for that sucker a few times
Link Posted: 1/21/2006 6:17:31 PM EDT
I just use a pen and let the pin fly into my hand.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 3:41:20 AM EDT
With stainless almost never.

With blued, almost the same…

I clean the working part of them every time I clean the slide, which is after every use. But to clean the extractor and firing pin after every firing, is simply not needed.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 4:20:16 AM EDT
Every time I cleaned my weapon, only takes an extra min.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 6:08:15 AM EDT
I use a golf tee to remove it. Then I use a small 90 degree flathead screwdriver (used on hard to get to screws. Got it at sears.) to hold the firing pin while I slide the firing pin stop back in place. The small screwdriver fits in there perfect.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 6:15:31 AM EDT
i don't think i've ever cleaned mine.....................
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 6:20:44 AM EDT
At about 2000 rounds when I replace the recoil spring. Since Wolff recoil springs come with a "free" firing pin spring, I'll replace the firing pin spring even though it probably doesn't need it.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 8:15:26 AM EDT
It only takes about 2 minutes to clean it.

Is worth it for the peace of mind. Amazing how much carbon loads up in there,
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 8:21:40 AM EDT
After every range trip, be it 50 rounds or 500, I strip and clean, including the whole slide assembly (extractor, firing pin, etc)...

I just use a small punch to push in the firing pin and slide the stop out while aiming it at my cleaning towel. I use the same punch to remove the extractor, and from the top, hold down the firing pin while I slide the stop back into place. The punch also makes a great extractor groove aligner if the extractor twists.

I use q-tips to clean the extractor hole and firing pin hole...for the extractor make sure you really clean the inside of the ejection port around the extractor area! Use a toothbrush or something to really get the gunk out because it likes collecting there. I soak one side of the q-tip in hoppes, run that though from back to front, and pull the dry side all the way through...might take 5 or 10 q-tips but by the time I'm done, the dry q-tip comes out clean. If you don't clean the ejection port area the extractor hole may well be clean, but you'll get false positive gunk from the ejection port area.

One thing though...if you can spend it, get the brand name q-tips, not the generic ones. I've found the J&J Q-Tip (tm) brand really is the best to use. More expensive, but *shrug* It's worth it to me The aftermarket ones don't have as much 'swab' area...the brand name stuff has a LOT of cotton on it.

Every couple thousand rounds I also remove the safety, remove the hammer, and remove the mainspring housing/leaf spring, and pop out the disconnector and sear. Most of the time, while I'm there, I also remove the trigger. (In effect, a full detail strip)

It's worth it to get all the crud out of the frame, wipe it all down, and leave it with a light oil coat...might not be NECESSARY, but it sure does ease the mind.

YMMV...

Link Posted: 1/22/2006 8:29:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/22/2006 8:30:44 AM EDT by danpass]

Originally Posted By Evil_Ed:
After every range trip, be it 50 rounds or 500, I strip and clean, including the whole slide assembly (extractor, firing pin, etc)...

I just use a small punch to push in the firing pin and slide the stop out while aiming it at my cleaning towel. I use the same punch to remove the extractor, and from the top, hold down the firing pin while I slide the stop back into place. The punch also makes a great extractor groove aligner if the extractor twists.

I use q-tips to clean the extractor hole and firing pin hole...for the extractor make sure you really clean the inside of the ejection port around the extractor area! Use a toothbrush or something to really get the gunk out because it likes collecting there. I soak one side of the q-tip in hoppes, run that though from back to front, and pull the dry side all the way through...might take 5 or 10 q-tips but by the time I'm done, the dry q-tip comes out clean. If you don't clean the ejection port area the extractor hole may well be clean, but you'll get false positive gunk from the ejection port area.

One thing though...if you can spend it, get the brand name q-tips, not the generic ones. I've found the J&J Q-Tip (tm) brand really is the best to use. More expensive, but *shrug* It's worth it to me The aftermarket ones don't have as much 'swab' area...the brand name stuff has a LOT of cotton on it.

Every couple thousand rounds I also remove the safety, remove the hammer, and remove the mainspring housing/leaf spring, and pop out the disconnector and sear. Most of the time, while I'm there, I also remove the trigger. (In effect, a full detail strip)

It's worth it to get all the crud out of the frame, wipe it all down, and leave it with a light oil coat...might not be NECESSARY, but it sure does ease the mind.

YMMV...




You didn't mention the mag catch (or the grips ) or breaking down the magazines


Link Posted: 1/22/2006 8:43:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/22/2006 8:43:57 AM EDT by Evil_Ed]

Originally Posted By danpass:
You didn't mention the mag catch (or the grips ) or breaking down the magazines







No, I don't take down the mag catch..

For grips..every 6 months, if it satisifies you I wipe down the frame underneath, dry it off, and then put a coat of oil down where the grip would cover it up. Help prevent rust and all that. (Had a Sistema that started to rust under the grips...ugh, never again.)

ETA:
And mags...well, only when they start to fail Wipe down externally every now and again and clean off the follower, but the rest should be fine.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 8:47:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/22/2006 8:48:03 AM EDT by danpass]

Originally Posted By Evil_Ed:

Originally Posted By danpass:
You didn't mention the mag catch (or the grips ) or breaking down the magazines







No, I don't take down the mag catch..

For grips..every 6 months, if it satisifies you I wipe down the frame underneath, dry it off, and then put a coat of oil down where the grip would cover it up. Help prevent rust and all that. (Had a Sistema that started to rust under the grips...ugh, never again.)

ETA:
And mags...well, only when they start to fail Wipe down externally every now and again and clean off the follower, but the rest should be fine.



LOL

Great sig line you got too
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 12:34:29 PM EDT
Used to never/ seldom clean it. After having FTF problems, I now clean it every time. It only takes a few seconds extra to do it anyway.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 5:54:45 PM EDT
Every maintenance guide for the 1911 I've seen mentions cleaning the extractor every time.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 9:30:10 PM EDT
Considering how long it takes to do, I don't see any point in not doing it every time.
Link Posted: 1/23/2006 8:53:28 AM EDT
I was one of the "never have" until today. I took my stainless Officers ACP apart today. I bought it used back around 1989 and have never taken the slide apart. I put about 800 rounds through it over the years(yeah, I know, not much) and I have no idea how many went through it before I purchased it. The channels, extractor and firing pin/spring were fairly gunky. I also took my RIA 1911 slide apart for the first time after about 1000 rounds of Wolf. It was surprisingly clean compared to the Colt. Possibly the dunking in Ed's Red every time I cleaned the RIA helped keep the buildup down.
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