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Posted: 2/6/2020 6:46:56 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice work! I started taking mine apart last night so I can finish blending and polishing. Then I need to figure out what I want to do for a finish. I guess I will probably parkerize it to protect everything and make it uniform, but I'm not a huge fan of the parkerized look. It's going to be mismatched since the slide and some of the small parts are parkerized but meh... 
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Posted: 2/7/2020 1:39:50 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, it goes into battery with just the slide stop and bushing in place. I was planning on putting a Wilson Combat #3 Standards Link. I believe it's a .278" link. I'll also double check the next smallest one just to be sure. If your link won't allow the barrel to link down in time, you'll need a shorter one. If the link won't allow the barrel to stop on the VIS, you'll need a longer one. That's the basics of link selection; if you are in a situation where neither of these things happen with a given link, that's when it gets interesting. |
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Posted: 2/7/2020 9:10:08 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If your chosen link will 1) pull the barrel clear of the upper lugs -- you are ideally wanting .010" clearance but practically speaking, a little less will work -- and allow the barrel to stop on the VIS instead of the link when fully linked down, that's what you're shooting for. If your link won't allow the barrel to link down in time, you'll need a shorter one. If the link won't allow the barrel to stop on the VIS, you'll need a longer one. That's the basics of link selection; if you are in a situation where neither of these things happen with a given link, that's when it gets interesting. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Yes, it goes into battery with just the slide stop and bushing in place. I was planning on putting a Wilson Combat #3 Standards Link. I believe it's a .278" link. I'll also double check the next smallest one just to be sure. If your link won't allow the barrel to link down in time, you'll need a shorter one. If the link won't allow the barrel to stop on the VIS, you'll need a longer one. That's the basics of link selection; if you are in a situation where neither of these things happen with a given link, that's when it gets interesting. |
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Posted: 2/7/2020 9:10:08 AM EDT
[#4]
Well, looks like the dumbass post office lost my reamer and a few other 1911 things I ordered. Shows available for pickup but the three times I went to the post office they said they never received it. I’m not real happy.
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Posted: 2/7/2020 4:13:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well, looks like the dumbass post office lost my reamer and a few other 1911 things I ordered. Shows available for pickup but the three times I went to the post office they said they never received it. I’m not real happy. |
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Posted: 2/7/2020 7:37:37 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sanding down the link pin by chucking it in a drill is a pretty good workaround. Sand down the end sticking out and then flip it over and sand down the other half. You can also use a file instead of sandpaper but that takes more finesse and it's easy to take off too much. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Well, looks like the dumbass post office lost my reamer and a few other 1911 things I ordered. Shows available for pickup but the three times I went to the post office they said they never received it. I’m not real happy. Gotta do a little frame to slide blending but it's better than slide to frame blending and it's a very little bit. Guess this weekend I'll work on fitting the trigger and beaver tail and safety. I don't want to put the ejector and tube on until I can blue the frame. Maybe I'll do that this weekend too. Although I should probably install the ejector to blend that too. |
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Posted: 2/7/2020 8:41:13 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Went to harbor freight and picked up a #23 .154" drill bit and used it with my hand to debur the holes in the bottom lug. Got the link pin and a #3 Wilson Combat link installed. Slide goes all the way forward and the barrel locks up with the recoil rod and spring installed. Gotta do a little frame to slide blending but it's better than slide to frame blending and it's a very little bit. Guess this weekend I'll work on fitting the trigger and beaver tail and safety. I don't want to put the extractor and tube on until I can blue the frame. Maybe I'll do that this weekend too. Although I should probably install the extractor to blend that too. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Well, looks like the dumbass post office lost my reamer and a few other 1911 things I ordered. Shows available for pickup but the three times I went to the post office they said they never received it. I’m not real happy. Gotta do a little frame to slide blending but it's better than slide to frame blending and it's a very little bit. Guess this weekend I'll work on fitting the trigger and beaver tail and safety. I don't want to put the extractor and tube on until I can blue the frame. Maybe I'll do that this weekend too. Although I should probably install the extractor to blend that too. |
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Posted: 2/7/2020 10:30:54 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You should be able to temp fit the extractor without pinning it, for blending. With the slide on, it won't go anywhere. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Well, looks like the dumbass post office lost my reamer and a few other 1911 things I ordered. Shows available for pickup but the three times I went to the post office they said they never received it. I’m not real happy. Gotta do a little frame to slide blending but it's better than slide to frame blending and it's a very little bit. Guess this weekend I'll work on fitting the trigger and beaver tail and safety. I don't want to put the extractor and tube on until I can blue the frame. Maybe I'll do that this weekend too. Although I should probably install the extractor to blend that too. |
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Posted: 2/7/2020 10:50:45 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You should be able to temp fit the extractor without pinning it, for blending. With the slide on, it won't go anywhere. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Well, looks like the dumbass post office lost my reamer and a few other 1911 things I ordered. Shows available for pickup but the three times I went to the post office they said they never received it. I’m not real happy. Gotta do a little frame to slide blending but it's better than slide to frame blending and it's a very little bit. Guess this weekend I'll work on fitting the trigger and beaver tail and safety. I don't want to put the extractor and tube on until I can blue the frame. Maybe I'll do that this weekend too. Although I should probably install the extractor to blend that too. |
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Posted: 2/7/2020 11:35:45 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you guys mean to say ejector? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Well, looks like the dumbass post office lost my reamer and a few other 1911 things I ordered. Shows available for pickup but the three times I went to the post office they said they never received it. I’m not real happy. Gotta do a little frame to slide blending but it's better than slide to frame blending and it's a very little bit. Guess this weekend I'll work on fitting the trigger and beaver tail and safety. I don't want to put the extractor and tube on until I can blue the frame. Maybe I'll do that this weekend too. Although I should probably install the extractor to blend that too. |
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Posted: 2/8/2020 12:02:46 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If your doing a 80% 1911/2011 build you will a lot of specialized tools and jigs to do the job correctly...even if your building from a 100% stripped 1911 frame like a PSA you will still need some specialized 1911 tools like a 1911 rail file, various stones, emery cloth/paper of different grits, funsmith punch set, etc. You may even need a barrel feet cutter and they don't come cheap...Specialized 1911 tools and jigs are not cheap by any means and prices stack up pretty fast. For those that want to build a 1911/2011 pistol from the ground up (100% finished stripped frame) which can be very rewarding for sure, I would recommend purchasing a fitted frame and slide kit...this way there is a minimum amount of need to buy specialized tools and jigs, etc. Usually the slide to frame fitting cost you the most time and effort, follow by the barrel to slide fitting, and then the sight installation and fitting (provided you have purchased funsmith fit parts for your build). Ignition parts are best purchased as a kit from a well known manufacturer...If your building a bare-bones 1911 as you may have decided that of course would not apply to you. Good luck. |
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Posted: 2/8/2020 2:50:40 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What would I google to find the fitted frame and slide kit? Or do you have any suggestions? |
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Posted: 2/8/2020 7:43:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Brazos Custom will sell a fitted 2011 frame and slide kit. |
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Posted: 2/8/2020 7:51:23 PM EDT
[#14]
After spending Thursday, Friday and part of today fighting with the post office they finally found my package. They said it had fallen down behind a door in the delivery vehicle. While I don't need the reamer now I dont have to buy a new bushing because it has an assortment of bushings in it. My wife has it with her while shes at work.
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Posted: 2/10/2020 11:37:50 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm going to try my hand at rust bluing the frame. It's going to be mismatched since the slide and some of the small parts are parkerized but meh... Is there any way to get a nice deep rich blue by DIY? I undercut my trigger guard this weekend and finished the blending of the slide/frame, and the frame/beavertail/ambi safeties, so I think I'm ready to refinish. |
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Posted: 2/10/2020 12:44:47 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you know how you're going to rust blue it yet? I saw some videos online about melting down stump remover haha. Is there any way to get a nice deep rich blue by DIY? I undercut my trigger guard this weekend and finished the blending of the slide/frame, and the frame/beavertail/ambi safeties, so I think I'm ready to refinish. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'm going to try my hand at rust bluing the frame. It's going to be mismatched since the slide and some of the small parts are parkerized but meh... Is there any way to get a nice deep rich blue by DIY? I undercut my trigger guard this weekend and finished the blending of the slide/frame, and the frame/beavertail/ambi safeties, so I think I'm ready to refinish. I won’t be ready to blue anything for a while.I keep screwing parts up. I was wondering why my safety wouldn’t engage so I looked through my book and realized I had to file down a little area on it. Well...dumbass me filed too much down so now the safety doesn’t work at all. Then I was still having an issue with the beaver tail interfering with the trigger bow so I took a little more off the back of it. Well now, the hammer drops without using the beaver tail. I’m an idiot, but considering I’ve never done a build like this it’s to be expected. I’m just annoyed I blended the beaver tail almost perfectly to the frame and now I’ve got to fit another one. 
I want to undercut the trigger guard and checker the front strap but the way I’m going now I’ll completely fuck it up so I’m not even going to bother. It’s one thing to screw up the small parts but to screw up the frame in a state that makes gun purchases a nightmare I’d rather not mess with the frame.
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Posted: 2/10/2020 1:40:09 PM EDT
[#17]
I'll proudly admit, I used a Dremel
I started out with a round file but the dremel sanding drum is like the perfect diameter haha. I didn't go crazy, I left about 0.060" of thickness below the trigger track based on my layout lines. |
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Posted: 2/10/2020 2:13:52 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'll proudly admit, I used a Dremel
I started out with a round file but the dremel sanding drum is like the perfect diameter haha. I didn't go crazy, I left about 0.060" of thickness below the trigger track based on my layout lines. |
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Posted: 2/15/2020 12:27:51 PM EDT
[#19]
Uggghhh..... This is taking a lot longer than I thought. Well here's a little update. Got my new safety and beaver tail yesterday so I spent a few minutes fitting them and here's where I'm at.
 Attached FileI think I still need to adjust the thumb safety because it seems squishy going into the safe position but I'm not sure if it's because I don't have the plunger tube installed. Since I went with a stainless beavertail I'm going to replace the trigger with a silver one, the slide catch will be stainless and the bushing will be stainless as well.. I actually have a new bushing and got a reamer to fit it. So far everything seems to be working. With the old safety it would not go into the half cock notch but now it does. And now both safeties work as they should. |
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Posted: 2/24/2020 9:54:49 AM EDT
[#20]
I media blasted mine yesterday. 80 grit glass beads. Still kinda rough, should I re blast it with a finer grit before parking? Or toss the frame and slide in the wet tumbler (separately)?
 Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/24/2020 11:11:17 AM EDT
[#21]
Man, my frame wasn't nearly that rough. I hit it with some 320 sandpaper then started bluing it last night.
 Attached FileThat's after the third time being boiled.. I'm gonna hit it a few more times. Oh, and this is the first time I'm even attempting rust bluing. |
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Posted: 2/24/2020 11:26:16 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Man, my frame wasn't nearly that rough. I hit it with some 320 sandpaper then started bluing it last night. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/417902/IMG_20200223_212429_jpg-1289468.JPG That's after the third time being boiled.. I'm gonna hit it a few more times. Oh, and this is the first time I'm even attempting rust bluing. To clarify, mine was nice and smooth before I media blasted everything haha. Those pics were immediately after, i hadn't wiped them down or anything. But it's definitely rougher after blasting than before. ETA - I just ordered some 220grit aluminum oxide. I'll reblast with that |
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Posted: 2/24/2020 11:58:13 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's looking good To clarify, mine was nice and smooth before I media blasted everything haha. Those pics were immediately after, i hadn't wiped them down or anything. But it's definitely rougher after blasting than before. ETA - I just ordered some 220grit aluminum oxide. I'll reblast with that Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Man, my frame wasn't nearly that rough. I hit it with some 320 sandpaper then started bluing it last night. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/417902/IMG_20200223_212429_jpg-1289468.JPG That's after the third time being boiled.. I'm gonna hit it a few more times. Oh, and this is the first time I'm even attempting rust bluing. To clarify, mine was nice and smooth before I media blasted everything haha. Those pics were immediately after, i hadn't wiped them down or anything. But it's definitely rougher after blasting than before. ETA - I just ordered some 220grit aluminum oxide. I'll reblast with that |
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Posted: 2/25/2020 12:22:09 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Man, my frame wasn't nearly that rough. I hit it with some 320 sandpaper then started bluing it last night. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/417902/IMG_20200223_212429_jpg-1289468.JPG That's after the third time being boiled.. I'm gonna hit it a few more times. Oh, and this is the first time I'm even attempting rust bluing. |
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Posted: 2/25/2020 8:24:30 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Who's beavertail gs did you use? Looks like it has the wrong radius for the frame tangs. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Man, my frame wasn't nearly that rough. I hit it with some 320 sandpaper then started bluing it last night. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/417902/IMG_20200223_212429_jpg-1289468.JPG That's after the third time being boiled.. I'm gonna hit it a few more times. Oh, and this is the first time I'm even attempting rust bluing. |
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Posted: 2/25/2020 3:20:50 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Fusion .250 radius. Why do you say they look wrong? Ehh...who am I kidding, I probably messed the tangs up when fitting the safety. Yours looked fine |
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Posted: 2/25/2020 5:43:37 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Oops, copied the wrong photo. Meant to ask thormx638 that.. Yours looked fine
The beavertail itself is the one that came in the Rock Island kit. |
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Posted: 2/25/2020 8:24:37 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used the Wilson Combat jig. Now that you mention it and I go back and read the description of the Wilson jig, it says "NOT for 0.250 radius", I could have sworn it said "for" when I ordered it. Oops
The beavertail itself is the one that came in the Rock Island kit. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Oops, copied the wrong photo. Meant to ask thormx638 that.. Yours looked fine
The beavertail itself is the one that came in the Rock Island kit.
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Posted: 2/27/2020 8:48:45 PM EDT
[#29]
I reblasted mine with 220 white aluminum oxide. Way better! The difference may not show up in resized phone pics that well but in person it's obvious.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 2/27/2020 9:16:48 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I reblasted mine with 220 white aluminum oxide. Way better! The difference may not show up in resized phone pics that well but in person it's obvious. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/263232/IMG_20200227_193510_copy_759x1012_jpg-1293864.JPG Nice job. |
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Posted: 2/28/2020 10:10:58 PM EDT
[#31]
Need some help. When the safety is engaged if I depress the beavertail and pull the trigger the hammer drops to the half cock notch. What gives?
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Posted: 2/29/2020 12:12:11 AM EDT
[#32]
Make sure the trigger is allowing sufficient overtravel. Remove the mag catch temporarily if that helps.
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Posted: 2/29/2020 5:57:50 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Make sure the trigger is allowing sufficient overtravel. Remove the mag catch temporarily if that helps. |
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Posted: 2/29/2020 1:07:33 PM EDT
[#34]
I'll deal with the safety thing later. Right now it's....
 Attached File Attached FileOil bath time!!! |
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Posted: 2/29/2020 1:15:40 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mag catch has not been installed. Also, how high would you say the hammer hooks are? |
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Posted: 2/29/2020 2:18:10 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'll deal with the safety thing later. Right now it's.... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/417902/IMG_20200228_160244_2_jpg-1296118.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/417902/IMG_20200229_120438_jpg-1296119.JPG Oil bath time!!!  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached FileManganese parkerizing. Worked really well, it's a very nice rich black. |
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Posted: 2/29/2020 5:09:54 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Need some help. When the safety is engaged if I depress the beavertail and pull the trigger the hammer drops to the half cock notch. What gives? |
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Posted: 2/29/2020 5:33:37 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you dont have the slide on that will happen. Press the disconnecter in with your thumb and try it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Need some help. When the safety is engaged if I depress the beavertail and pull the trigger the hammer drops to the half cock notch. What gives? |
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Posted: 2/29/2020 7:38:57 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you dont have the slide on that will happen. Press the disconnecter in with your thumb and try it. Now, "up" with the slide off may be different than "up" with the slide on, depends on the depth of the disconnector notch and length of the disconnector. |
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Posted: 2/29/2020 11:17:35 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Refinishing day for me too. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/263232/IMG_20200229_101733_copy_1012x1349_jpg-1296210.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/263232/IMG_20200229_105345_copy_1012x759_jpg-1296211.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/263232/IMG_20200229_114759_copy_1012x759_jpg-1296212.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/263232/IMG_20200229_114635_copy_1012x759_jpg-1296213.JPG Manganese parkerizing. Worked really well, it's a very nice rich black. |
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Posted: 2/29/2020 11:27:37 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The disconnector will be all the way in the "up" position when the slide is in battery and ready to fire. Pressing the disconnector down will disengage it from the sear. Now, "up" with the slide off may be different than "up" with the slide on, depends on the depth of the disconnector notch and length of the disconnector. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
If you dont have the slide on that will happen. Press the disconnecter in with your thumb and try it. Now, "up" with the slide off may be different than "up" with the slide on, depends on the depth of the disconnector notch and length of the disconnector. |
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Posted: 3/1/2020 9:28:52 AM EDT
[#42]
You all have me considering a build.
I hope you're happy. 
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Posted: 3/1/2020 9:35:23 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You all have me considering a build.
I hope you're happy. 
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Posted: 3/1/2020 3:10:36 PM EDT
[#44]
Alright, got the frame out of the oil bath and cleaned up. Now I'm assembling it. With the slide on the thumb safety on and depressing the beavertail the hammer does not drop to the half cock notch. But I do notice that sometimes if I squeeze the beavertail safety on with the thumb safety engaged and let go the beavertail remains in the on position; pushed in. It feels like the trigger is rubbing on the beavertail somewhere.
 Attached File Attached FileI've still got to fit the recoil spring cap, it doesn't quite lock in under the bushing. I also have a stainless main spring housing coming in stainless. |
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Posted: 3/1/2020 3:35:43 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Alright, got the frame out of the oil bath and cleaned up. Now I'm assembling it. With the slide on the thumb safety on and depressing the beavertail the hammer does not drop to the half cock notch. But I do notice that sometimes if I squeeze the beavertail safety on with the thumb safety engaged and let go the beavertail remains in the on position; pushed in. It feels like the trigger is rubbing on the beavertail somewhere. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/417902/IMG_20200301_135526_jpg-1297748.JPG |
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Posted: 3/1/2020 3:59:46 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It is. Lightly polish the underside of the arm and top of the trigger bow where it rides. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Alright, got the frame out of the oil bath and cleaned up. Now I'm assembling it. With the slide on the thumb safety on and depressing the beavertail the hammer does not drop to the half cock notch. But I do notice that sometimes if I squeeze the beavertail safety on with the thumb safety engaged and let go the beavertail remains in the on position; pushed in. It feels like the trigger is rubbing on the beavertail somewhere. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/417902/IMG_20200301_135526_jpg-1297748.JPG Ughhh... it's killing me. Had the disconnector, sear and hammer out. Got it to where it wasn't sticking. Put it all back together and it's still sticking. I dont want to ruin another beavertail.... I walked away from it for the rest of the evening. Maybe I'll work on it when my other mainspring housing gets here.
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Posted: 3/2/2020 7:57:37 PM EDT
[#47]
Still can't get the beavertail safety to not stick.
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:22:06 PM EDT
[#48]
Is your grip safety leg of the leaf spring bent enough?
When it's stuck in, how much pressure upwards on the beavertail (the part where the hammer lands when cocked) is required to unstick it? Or is it totally jammed? |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:57:29 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is your grip safety leg of the leaf spring bent enough? When it's stuck in, how much pressure upwards on the beavertail (the part where the hammer lands when cocked) is required to unstick it? Or is it totally jammed? |
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Posted: 3/2/2020 9:46:54 PM EDT
[#50]
I'm starting to get really frustrated with this. I took everything apart and readjusted it a few more times. I was happy because it wasn't doing it anymore. As soon as I put the mag catch back in the frame it starts hanging up again. I take the mag catch out, it operates as normal, put it back in it hangs up. Every damn time. The trigger does not come all the way out which hangs the beavertail up. I can not see where the trigger bow is rubbing the mag catch. I just threw a magazine in it for giggles and it's worse when a mag is in it.
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