User Panel
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Will the barrel lock into the slide (not mounted on frame)? If so, your issue is the lugs. Wilson makes different length Barrel links. You can even get a kit with different sizes in them. I would try that before I removed any material off the barrel lugs. View Quote Springfield put out a ton of 1911s with that slide overhang. They would not repair under warranty. Lots of smiths in the USPSA-IdPA circles made good money shaving down slides and replacing links in the early 2000s. |
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Glad I read before typing the same answer. Springfield put out a ton of 1911s with that slide overhang. They would not repair under warranty. Lots of smiths in the USPSA-IdPA circles made good money shaving down slides and replacing links in the early 2000s. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Will the barrel lock into the slide (not mounted on frame)? If so, your issue is the lugs. Wilson makes different length Barrel links. You can even get a kit with different sizes in them. I would try that before I removed any material off the barrel lugs. Springfield put out a ton of 1911s with that slide overhang. They would not repair under warranty. Lots of smiths in the USPSA-IdPA circles made good money shaving down slides and replacing links in the early 2000s. |
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I've found it quite simple to make my own safe edge files if you have the right equipment. Using a belt sander like this removes the file cuts smoothly and evenly. https://i.imgur.com/4DDx3BMl.jpg I've made several safe edge files for various purposes. The latest is a square file with two safe sides for filing down a para cut in an aluminum commander frame. It was not quite deep enough at .298". It easily came down to .315" in a short amount of time. Saved me from sending it out for machining just to get .017" milled out. https://i.imgur.com/dK5GfbTh.jpg View Quote Well damn, I never thought to use a belt sander . Of course I got a crappy handheld one, but it too would work, albeit a bit sketchier for this task. Good ingenuity! |
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I need to invest in some decent files. View Quote Matrix also makes stones sized to fit in the frame rails as well which may work and are cheaper than the rail file. |
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I used the Matrix decking file to deck the frame (which you may not have to do?), and the rail file a little bit, but the majority of filing I've done has been with the Brownell's locking lug file. Matrix also makes stones sized to fit in the frame rails as well which may work and are cheaper than the rail file. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I need to invest in some decent files. Matrix also makes stones sized to fit in the frame rails as well which may work and are cheaper than the rail file. |
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Son of a I just ordered a bunch of tools and I get an email from Hooper Gun Works that they've canceled my order for a barrel. They've given no explanation as to why.
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Son of a I just ordered a bunch of tools and I get an email from Hooper Gun Works that they've canceled my order for a barrel. They've given no explanation as to why. View Quote Machining/final finish is as nice the Fusion UMG barrels for less money. I don't know about accuracy of course but I'm not building a match gun so I'm sure it will be fine. I don't have the barrel completely fit to my build yet but everything appears to be in spec so far. There is also an option to add a bushing, link, and pin for only $20. Remsport 1911 Barrels Fusion UMG Barrels |
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Been following this thread with great interest. Will be undertaking my first build as well in the future. Still researching/deciding what parts I want to use. Has anyone used the slides or barrels from a shop called Heavy Armor Division?
Slides Barrels Just wanted to mention them OP as their barrels are reasonably priced. That's annoying to hear that Hooper cancelled your order with no explanation. At any rate, looks like Heavy Armor Division has a nice variety of slides and the barrels are cheap enough I wouldn't mind screwing one up for my first try at a build . For some reason their Gov length slides are series 80 though which is disappointing. |
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I don't know exactly what barrel you are looking for but you could give Remsport/TR Enabling a try. I just picked up one for a commander build and it appears to be a fine barrel. Machining/final finish is as nice the Fusion UMG barrels for less money. I don't know about accuracy of course but I'm not building a match gun so I'm sure it will be fine. I don't have the barrel completely fit to my build yet but everything appears to be in spec so far. There is also an option to add a bushing, link, and pin for only $20. Remsport 1911 Barrels Fusion UMG Barrels View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Son of a I just ordered a bunch of tools and I get an email from Hooper Gun Works that they've canceled my order for a barrel. They've given no explanation as to why. Machining/final finish is as nice the Fusion UMG barrels for less money. I don't know about accuracy of course but I'm not building a match gun so I'm sure it will be fine. I don't have the barrel completely fit to my build yet but everything appears to be in spec so far. There is also an option to add a bushing, link, and pin for only $20. Remsport 1911 Barrels Fusion UMG Barrels Quoted:
Been following this thread with great interest. Will be undertaking my first build as well in the future. Still researching/deciding what parts I want to use. Has anyone used the slides or barrels from a shop called Heavy Armor Division? Slides Barrels Just wanted to mention them OP as their barrels are reasonably priced. That's annoying to hear that Hooper cancelled your order with no explanation. At any rate, looks like Heavy Armor Division has a nice variety of slides and the barrels are cheap enough I wouldn't mind screwing one up for my first try at a build . For some reason their Gov length slides are series 80 though which is disappointing. |
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The only thing I did with the deck was hit it with some 1500 sandpaper on a piece of glass to remove the high spots. I did use a rail file on the rails of the frame because it was so tight I couldn’t get the slide on the frame. I need to grab a locking lug file and a gauge though for my new barrel. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
The only thing I did with the deck was hit it with some 1500 sandpaper on a piece of glass to remove the high spots. I did use a rail file on the rails of the frame because it was so tight I couldn’t get the slide on the frame. I need to grab a locking lug file and a gauge though for my new barrel. Quoted:
I don't know exactly what barrel you are looking for but you could give Remsport/TR Enabling a try. I just picked up one for a commander build and it appears to be a fine barrel. Machining/final finish is as nice the Fusion UMG barrels for less money. I don't know about accuracy of course but I'm not building a match gun so I'm sure it will be fine. I don't have the barrel completely fit to my build yet but everything appears to be in spec so far. There is also an option to add a bushing, link, and pin for only $20. Remsport 1911 Barrels Fusion UMG Barrels |
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I am using a Remsport slide for this build as well. Quality/tolerances have been excellent so far. The frame is a Stealth Arms aluminium bobtail railed commander. https://i.imgur.com/lmpUCBZh.jpg View Quote That or the stainless bobtailed 45 commander that 1911builders has in kit form, but that'd be a few hundred bucks more I think. |
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Been following this thread with great interest. Will be undertaking my first build as well in the future. Still researching/deciding what parts I want to use. Has anyone used the slides or barrels from a shop called Heavy Armor Division? Slides Barrels Just wanted to mention them OP as their barrels are reasonably priced. That's annoying to hear that Hooper cancelled your order with no explanation. At any rate, looks like Heavy Armor Division has a nice variety of slides and the barrels are cheap enough I wouldn't mind screwing one up for my first try at a build . For some reason their Gov length slides are series 80 though which is disappointing. View Quote Uuuggghhh......I really want a 10mm 1911. No! No! I said u was doing a .45 build....I need to stick to my original plan. |
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Picked my frame up today and spent all day working on it. Got the slide fitred. I'm having an issue though. I can't fit the beaver tail and safety until I get the slide to all the way forward. I'm not sure what's going on. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/417902/IMG_20200118_181919_2_jpg-1239820.JPG I can't figure out what I need to adjust to get the slide all the way forward and I don't want to mess this up. I fit the barrel to the slide and got the slide stop in. If I take the barrel bushing out it'll slide all the way forward so I'm assuming the bushing is the issue. Without the barrel, bushing and slide stop in the slide moves freely back and fourth. With the the bushing in it hangs up when the slide is all the way back and stops at that point all the way forward. View Quote Check upper lug engagement The upper lugs on the barrel may not be going up into the slide far enough. With the slide, barrel bushing assembled on slide, put the SS back in hanging vertically. Press slide forward to go in battery. Use the depth gauge on your caliper and measure down from top of slide to barrel. Now pull the slide back, stick a popsicle stick in the breech from the top. Push slide forward, the popsicle stick keeps the barrel from going into battery. Now measure from top of slide to barrel again. Calculate the difference in measurements, it should be .040 to .045". Take the slide off the frame, take those two measurements again with it off. You should have the same measurements as when it was on the frame. You want around .040 to 045" of upper lug engagement. If you get this with the slide off the frame but not while on it, you are hanging up somewhere. Could be the hood, upper or lower lugs. Lets see what you get first. |
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If you don't have the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manuals, volumes 1 and 2- GET THEM. They are exhaustive in detail- prints, specs, procedures, etc...
Read pages 123-35 for starters. Kuhnhausen Vol II This is also very informative, even though the instructions are specific to this barrel, some very good principles are laid out. Kart Xact Fit Barrel Instructions Mosin Virus has good videos. Mosin Virus on Youtube Also check out itsgoodsoup on Youtube itsgoodsoup |
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Quoted: Op, try this. Did you have the recoil spring in when you were trying this, if so, take it out. Just barrel, bushing, slide, install slide on frame. Put the slide stop (SS) in but let it hang down in the trigger well so its vertical, not horizontal. Now push the slide forward to go in battery. Is the SS pin now really tight? It should be loose. Check upper lug engagement The upper lugs on the barrel may not be going up into the slide far enough. With the slide, barrel bushing assembled on slide, put the SS back in hanging vertically. Press slide forward to go in battery. Use the depth gauge on your caliper and measure down from top of slide to barrel. Now pull the slide back, stick a popsicle stick in the breech from the top. Push slide forward, the popsicle stick keeps the barrel from going into battery. Now measure from top of slide to barrel again. Calculate the difference in measurements, it should be .040 to .045". Take the slide off the frame, take those two measurements again with it off. You should have the same measurements as when it was on the frame. You want around .040 to 045" of upper lug engagement. If you get this with the slide off the frame but not while on it, you are hanging up somewhere. Could be the hood, upper or lower lugs. Lets see what you get first. View Quote Quoted:
If you don't have the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manuals, volumes 1 and 2- GET THEM. They are exhaustive in detail- prints, specs, procedures, etc... Read pages 123-35 for starters. Kuhnhausen Vol II This is also very informative, even though the instructions are specific to this barrel, some very good principles are laid out. Kart Xact Fit Barrel Instructions Mosin Virus has good videos. Mosin Virus on Youtube Also check out itsgoodsoup on Youtube itsgoodsoup View Quote |
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So basically I was thinking that maybe the upper lugs don't have good engagement yet. If the barrel can't go up into the lugs, then the slide won't close all the way. And if you have good lug engagement with just the slide and barrel, when you put the slide/barrel on the frame you can see if you still have that engagement.
The other thing you want to check is that before you blend in the rear of the slide to the frame... - make sure that the disco is in the channel of the slide (it might not be) - the thumb safety can be engaged Whatcha eating? |
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So basically I was thinking that maybe the upper lugs don't have good engagement yet. If the barrel can't go up into the lugs, then the slide won't close all the way. And if you have good lug engagement with just the slide and barrel, when you put the slide/barrel on the frame you can see if you still have that engagement. The other thing you want to check is that before you blend in the rear of the slide to the frame... - make sure that the disco is in the channel of the slide (it might not be) - the thumb safety can be engaged Whatcha eating? View Quote The other thing you said about the disconnector being in the channel. I can't even get the slide to go all the way forward without the disconnector, trigger, beaver tail installed. So basically it's the slide, barrel and slide stop and nothing else. |
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Having some fun tonight.... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/337946/20200131_181430-1257678.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/337946/20200131_181433-1257689.jpg View Quote It's like Christmas in Jan! |
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I haven't done anything with mine. I'm waiting in my new barrel to get here. I did measure the old one and it's way out of spec; my own fault.
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TR trigger kit? It's like Christmas in Jan! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Having some fun tonight.... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/337946/20200131_181430-1257678.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/337946/20200131_181433-1257689.jpg It's like Christmas in Jan! |
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Not sure what you mean. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/337946/IMG_20200131_221117_976-1258279.jpg View Quote That kit looks nice! |
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Forgot to quote, was asking TheTallest what was wrong with his barrel, what was out of spec That kit looks nice! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Not sure what you mean. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/337946/IMG_20200131_221117_976-1258279.jpg That kit looks nice! |
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Ok, my new barrel came in today. It's a Fusion Match .45 barrel. If I measure the first locking lug to the end of the hood I get 1.316" and if I measure the first locking lug to the breach face on the slide with my slide gauge I get 1.315" the 1.313" side fits but 1.318" doesn't. So I figure the total length of my new barrel is ok and I won't mess with the hood. How do I determine what link I need? I've got a package of Wilson Combat links of different sizes and a package of Wilson pins (kind of pissed at myself because I accidentally ordered blued pins instead of stainless but whatever).
If I take a measurement with the barrel in battery from the top of the slide to the top of the barrel I get 0.135" and if I unlock the barrel and slide it to the first locking lug I get 0.167"; that's a difference of 0.032" so which link should I be using? Additionally, if I measure the bottom of the link pin hole to the bottom of the lug I get 0.111", slide stop pin is 0.197", link pin is 0.154"; the hole in the lug is 0.153" [How the hell does a 0.154" pin fit in there? I'm thinking I'll need to order a reamer now.] Also forgot to add, diameter of the barrel is 0.590" and the ID of the bushing is 0.582", should I take material off the barrel or off the ID of the bushing? Sorry for the stupid questions but I'd like to not screw this up a second time. |
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Ok, my new barrel came in today. It's a Fusion Match .45 barrel. If I measure the first locking lug to the end of the hood I get 1.316" and if I measure the first locking lug to the breach face on the slide with my slide gauge I get 1.315" the 1.313" side fits but 1.318" doesn't. So I figure the total length of my new barrel is ok and I won't mess with the hood. How do I determine what link I need? I've got a package of Wilson Combat links of different sizes and a package of Wilson pins (kind of pissed at myself because I accidentally ordered blued pins instead of stainless but whatever). If I take a measurement with the barrel in battery from the top of the slide to the top of the barrel I get 0.135" and if I unlock the barrel and slide it to the first locking lug I get 0.167"; that's a difference of 0.032" so which link should I be using? Additionally, if I measure the bottom of the link pin hole to the bottom of the lug I get 0.111", slide stop pin is 0.197", link pin is 0.154"; the hole in the lug is 0.153" [How the hell does a 0.154" pin fit in there? I'm thinking I'll need to order a reamer now.] Also forgot to add, diameter of the barrel is 0.590" and the ID of the bushing is 0.582", should I take material off the barrel or off the ID of the bushing? Sorry for the stupid questions but I'd like to not screw this up a second time. View Quote |
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Does the bushing fit on the barrel? I have used lapping compound inside the bushing before to take off just enough. Whatever you do, keep it circular and dont egg it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Ok, my new barrel came in today. It's a Fusion Match .45 barrel. If I measure the first locking lug to the end of the hood I get 1.316" and if I measure the first locking lug to the breach face on the slide with my slide gauge I get 1.315" the 1.313" side fits but 1.318" doesn't. So I figure the total length of my new barrel is ok and I won't mess with the hood. How do I determine what link I need? I've got a package of Wilson Combat links of different sizes and a package of Wilson pins (kind of pissed at myself because I accidentally ordered blued pins instead of stainless but whatever). If I take a measurement with the barrel in battery from the top of the slide to the top of the barrel I get 0.135" and if I unlock the barrel and slide it to the first locking lug I get 0.167"; that's a difference of 0.032" so which link should I be using? Additionally, if I measure the bottom of the link pin hole to the bottom of the lug I get 0.111", slide stop pin is 0.197", link pin is 0.154"; the hole in the lug is 0.153" [How the hell does a 0.154" pin fit in there? I'm thinking I'll need to order a reamer now.] Also forgot to add, diameter of the barrel is 0.590" and the ID of the bushing is 0.582", should I take material off the barrel or off the ID of the bushing? Sorry for the stupid questions but I'd like to not screw this up a second time. |
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Ok, my new barrel came in today. It's a Fusion Match .45 barrel. If I measure the first locking lug to the end of the hood I get 1.316" and if I measure the first locking lug to the breach face on the slide with my slide gauge I get 1.315" the 1.313" side fits but 1.318" doesn't. So I figure the total length of my new barrel is ok and I won't mess with the hood. How do I determine what link I need? I've got a package of Wilson Combat links of different sizes and a package of Wilson pins (kind of pissed at myself because I accidentally ordered blued pins instead of stainless but whatever). If I take a measurement with the barrel in battery from the top of the slide to the top of the barrel I get 0.135" and if I unlock the barrel and slide it to the first locking lug I get 0.167"; that's a difference of 0.032" so which link should I be using? Additionally, if I measure the bottom of the link pin hole to the bottom of the lug I get 0.111", slide stop pin is 0.197", link pin is 0.154"; the hole in the lug is 0.153" [How the hell does a 0.154" pin fit in there? I'm thinking I'll need to order a reamer now.] Also forgot to add, diameter of the barrel is 0.590" and the ID of the bushing is 0.582", should I take material off the barrel or off the ID of the bushing? Sorry for the stupid questions but I'd like to not screw this up a second time. View Quote The rule of thumb for mating two parts is to reduce the size of the less expensive part, like the link pin. Reduce the link pin until it fits tighly in the barrel lug. The easy way is to chuck it up in a low speed hand drill and pinch a small piece of extra fine sand paper(or emery cloth) around it. When that end fits tightly in the barrel lug hole, turn it 180 degrees in the drill to reduce the end previously chucked. Go slow and test fit often. An interference fit is desirable. I have to give John Harrison a shout out for that tip when I ordered some parts from him over the phone a while back. |
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Non-professional gunsmith suggestion. The rule of thumb for mating two parts is to reduce the size of the less expensive part, like the link pin. Reduce the link pin until it fits tighly in the barrel lug. The easy way is to chuck it up in a low speed hand drill and pinch a small piece of extra fine sand paper(or emery cloth) around it. When that end fits tightly in the barrel lug hole, turn it 180 degrees in the drill to reduce the end previously chucked. Go slow and test fit often. An interference fit is desirable. I have to give John Harrison a shout out for that tip when I ordered some parts from him over the phone a while back. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Ok, my new barrel came in today. It's a Fusion Match .45 barrel. If I measure the first locking lug to the end of the hood I get 1.316" and if I measure the first locking lug to the breach face on the slide with my slide gauge I get 1.315" the 1.313" side fits but 1.318" doesn't. So I figure the total length of my new barrel is ok and I won't mess with the hood. How do I determine what link I need? I've got a package of Wilson Combat links of different sizes and a package of Wilson pins (kind of pissed at myself because I accidentally ordered blued pins instead of stainless but whatever). If I take a measurement with the barrel in battery from the top of the slide to the top of the barrel I get 0.135" and if I unlock the barrel and slide it to the first locking lug I get 0.167"; that's a difference of 0.032" so which link should I be using? Additionally, if I measure the bottom of the link pin hole to the bottom of the lug I get 0.111", slide stop pin is 0.197", link pin is 0.154"; the hole in the lug is 0.153" [How the hell does a 0.154" pin fit in there? I'm thinking I'll need to order a reamer now.] Also forgot to add, diameter of the barrel is 0.590" and the ID of the bushing is 0.582", should I take material off the barrel or off the ID of the bushing? Sorry for the stupid questions but I'd like to not screw this up a second time. The rule of thumb for mating two parts is to reduce the size of the less expensive part, like the link pin. Reduce the link pin until it fits tighly in the barrel lug. The easy way is to chuck it up in a low speed hand drill and pinch a small piece of extra fine sand paper(or emery cloth) around it. When that end fits tightly in the barrel lug hole, turn it 180 degrees in the drill to reduce the end previously chucked. Go slow and test fit often. An interference fit is desirable. I have to give John Harrison a shout out for that tip when I ordered some parts from him over the phone a while back. |
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Ok, my new barrel came in today. It's a Fusion Match .45 barrel. If I measure the first locking lug to the end of the hood I get 1.316" and if I measure the first locking lug to the breach face on the slide with my slide gauge I get 1.315" the 1.313" side fits but 1.318" doesn't. So I figure the total length of my new barrel is ok and I won't mess with the hood. How do I determine what link I need? I've got a package of Wilson Combat links of different sizes and a package of Wilson pins (kind of pissed at myself because I accidentally ordered blued pins instead of stainless but whatever). If I take a measurement with the barrel in battery from the top of the slide to the top of the barrel I get 0.135" and if I unlock the barrel and slide it to the first locking lug I get 0.167"; that's a difference of 0.032" so which link should I be using? Additionally, if I measure the bottom of the link pin hole to the bottom of the lug I get 0.111", slide stop pin is 0.197", link pin is 0.154"; the hole in the lug is 0.153" [How the hell does a 0.154" pin fit in there? I'm thinking I'll need to order a reamer now.] Also forgot to add, diameter of the barrel is 0.590" and the ID of the bushing is 0.582", should I take material off the barrel or off the ID of the bushing? Sorry for the stupid questions but I'd like to not screw this up a second time. View Quote First, ensure that the barrel is locking up into the slide as much as it possibly can. Use a temp bushing that has a loose fit on the barrel to make sure that the bushing isn't interfering and preventing the barrel from going all the way up into the slide locking lugs, and measure again. You really want at least .040" of engagement, so if your measurements are true, it's time to use candle soot and coat the barrel to find out where it's bottoming out. |
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Don't worry about the link right now. First, ensure that the barrel is locking up into the slide as much as it possibly can. Use a temp bushing that has a loose fit on the barrel to make sure that the bushing isn't interfering and preventing the barrel from going all the way up into the slide locking lugs, and measure again. You really want at least .040" of engagement, so if your measurements are true, it's time to use candle soot and coat the barrel to find out where it's bottoming out. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Ok, my new barrel came in today. It's a Fusion Match .45 barrel. If I measure the first locking lug to the end of the hood I get 1.316" and if I measure the first locking lug to the breach face on the slide with my slide gauge I get 1.315" the 1.313" side fits but 1.318" doesn't. So I figure the total length of my new barrel is ok and I won't mess with the hood. How do I determine what link I need? I've got a package of Wilson Combat links of different sizes and a package of Wilson pins (kind of pissed at myself because I accidentally ordered blued pins instead of stainless but whatever). If I take a measurement with the barrel in battery from the top of the slide to the top of the barrel I get 0.135" and if I unlock the barrel and slide it to the first locking lug I get 0.167"; that's a difference of 0.032" so which link should I be using? Additionally, if I measure the bottom of the link pin hole to the bottom of the lug I get 0.111", slide stop pin is 0.197", link pin is 0.154"; the hole in the lug is 0.153" [How the hell does a 0.154" pin fit in there? I'm thinking I'll need to order a reamer now.] Also forgot to add, diameter of the barrel is 0.590" and the ID of the bushing is 0.582", should I take material off the barrel or off the ID of the bushing? Sorry for the stupid questions but I'd like to not screw this up a second time. First, ensure that the barrel is locking up into the slide as much as it possibly can. Use a temp bushing that has a loose fit on the barrel to make sure that the bushing isn't interfering and preventing the barrel from going all the way up into the slide locking lugs, and measure again. You really want at least .040" of engagement, so if your measurements are true, it's time to use candle soot and coat the barrel to find out where it's bottoming out. |
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Where do I put the soot or playdoh? I also dont have a loose fitting bushing. But inside order a couple of new one so I'll take the one I have and open it up a bit. View Quote Look up some videos on barrel fitting on YouTube. Mosin Virus has some good ones |
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Where do I put the soot or playdoh? I also dont have a loose fitting bushing. But inside order a couple of new one so I'll take the one I have and open it up a bit. View Quote |
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If your bushing is too tight then it can spring the barrel down. Loose bushing keeps it centered but not enough tightness to keep from getting engagement on the upper lugs.
Measure the high spot on the end of the barrel where the bushing contacts it. Use and old bushing, one of your wrecked barrel? Sand it down inside so its loose. You want clearance for your barrel high spot. |
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If your bushing is too tight then it can spring the barrel down. Loose bushing keeps it centered but not enough tightness to keep from getting engagement on the upper lugs. Measure the high spot on the end of the barrel where the bushing contacts it. Use and old bushing, one of your wrecked barrel? Sand it down inside so its loose. You want clearance for your barrel high spot. View Quote |
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You want the soot on the barrel upper lugs. Then you put the barrel in the slide and go into battery. Take your two measurements in battery and out, you're trying to get .040 to .045" clearance. The soot will show where the first barrel lug is hitting, keeping it from going in .040 to .045. You should see two spots where the soot is removed on the barrel lug surface, file them down just a little. Soot up, measure and go again until you reach .040 to .045 engagement. Look up some videos on barrel fitting on YouTube. Mosin Virus has some good ones View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Where do I put the soot or playdoh? I also dont have a loose fitting bushing. But inside order a couple of new one so I'll take the one I have and open it up a bit. Look up some videos on barrel fitting on YouTube. Mosin Virus has some good ones So it looks like it's rubbing the lugs at the left side. |
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Ugh... It took me forever to get this bushing to fit the barrel. Ok, so I'm at .051". I still need to Mark the lugs and see where it's hitting... Or? So it looks like it's rubbing the lugs at the left side. View Quote |
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The lugs should be be hitting equally on both sides. Make sure the barrel is centered in the slide. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Ugh... It took me forever to get this bushing to fit the barrel. Ok, so I'm at .051". I still need to Mark the lugs and see where it's hitting... Or? So it looks like it's rubbing the lugs at the left side. |
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Where on the barrel? 2:00, 3:00 or 4:00? If it's rubbing at 3:00 or "later", it won't hurt to file some clearance on the barrel.
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You want the soot on the barrel upper lugs. Then you put the barrel in the slide and go into battery. Take your two measurements in battery and out, you're trying to get .040 to .045" clearance. The soot will show where the first barrel lug is hitting, keeping it from going in .040 to .045. You should see two spots where the soot is removed on the barrel lug surface, file them down just a little. Soot up, measure and go again until you reach .040 to .045 engagement. Look up some videos on barrel fitting on YouTube. Mosin Virus has some good ones View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Where do I put the soot or playdoh? I also dont have a loose fitting bushing. But inside order a couple of new one so I'll take the one I have and open it up a bit. Look up some videos on barrel fitting on YouTube. Mosin Virus has some good ones Man, what a pain that was. I guess it's time to figure out what link I need. I've also got a new bushing coming that I can officially fit to the slide and barrel. |
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Nice work!
I started taking mine apart last night so I can finish blending and polishing. Then I need to figure out what I want to do for a finish. I guess I will probably parkerize it to protect everything and make it uniform, but I'm not a huge fan of the parkerized look. |
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I guess it's time to figure out what link I need. View Quote If so, select the smallest link that will allow the slide stop pin to rotate over the lower lugs without binding. If not, you will need to take metal off the lower lugs until the barrel can go into battery with the slide stop installed. |
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First, does the barrel go completely into battery when the barrel and slide are installed on the frame with just the slide stop pin in place? If so, select the smallest link that will allow the slide stop pin to rotate over the lower lugs without binding. If not, you will need to take metal off the lower lugs until the barrel can go into battery with the slide stop installed. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I guess it's time to figure out what link I need. If so, select the smallest link that will allow the slide stop pin to rotate over the lower lugs without binding. If not, you will need to take metal off the lower lugs until the barrel can go into battery with the slide stop installed. |
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