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Posted: 11/14/2017 7:46:51 PM EDT
[#1]
Blue
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Posted: 11/14/2017 8:51:42 PM EDT
[#2]
Blue, too.
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Posted: 11/14/2017 9:22:47 PM EDT
[#3]
try blue but don't be afraid to use red, you don't want it to come loose
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Posted: 11/14/2017 11:03:34 PM EDT
[#4]
I use red, just use a soldering iron to break it free if need be.
They were staked in back in the day, now, manufacturers are cheap and skip that step to save a penny. |
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Posted: 11/15/2017 6:51:46 AM EDT
[#5]
If JMB thought that the 1911 needed loctite he would have used it! Only staking is acceptable!! .........Joke
I would use red loctite. Clean both the bushing and frame with alcohol, apply loctite sparingly and allow to cure for 24hours. Be aware the frame bushing holes strip easily from over torquing. |
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Posted: 11/15/2017 9:57:02 AM EDT
[#6]
I use red, but I may have cross threaded a few and ended up cold welding a few in place.
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Posted: 11/15/2017 10:27:57 AM EDT
[#7]
I would use either with no worries.
Now if you were asking about the grip screw to bushing I would go blue. I have had 1911s that had sloppy fits there and grip Screws would walk out. A dot of blue on the screw and left overnight to dry works. Then install. Leaves a gum on the threads that resists walking out. I learned that trick on my old HBAR. There was a dot of red on the pivot pin's inner screw. Obviously dried before install. I use the technique on occasion. |
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Posted: 11/15/2017 11:09:49 AM EDT
[#8]
Blue is what I use plus o rings for my g10 grips, never had any come loose.
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Posted: 11/15/2017 11:19:51 AM EDT
[#9]
A half a drop of red works perfect.
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Posted: 11/15/2017 3:34:07 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Be aware the frame bushing holes strip easily from over torquing. The threads are nominally 0.0108 in. deep. The frame metal is also not all that hard at that point. |
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