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Posted: 7/12/2017 9:14:35 PM EDT
I am interested in picking up a 1911. What I seek is a collectible that I can shoot occasionally. I like shooting USPSA and 3-gun competition, and occasionally do the latter with an M1 Garand for fun. I'd like a used/rack grade 1911 or 1911a1 to have for reasons of collecting and for infrequent competition use, mainly so I have a fun gun that fits the WW1/WW2 theme. By infrequent, I'm thinking of probably one or two three gun competitions a year and/or one or two USPSA competitions per year. 

My main question is about longevity. I'm seen a bunch of references of how both 1911 and WW2 era 1911A1s were not heat treated as modern slides are, which results in slide cracking at low round counts. Is a vintage 1911 a good choice for me, or should I instead be looking for something recently made like the Colt WW1 reproduction or a series 70? 
Link Posted: 7/12/2017 9:31:36 PM EDT
[#1]
Go buy a WWI or WW2 reissue from Colt. [secondary market] Shoot to your hearts content.

Correct WWI or 2 1911's are really to valuable to shoot now so if you want a real one, just look for a mutt in decent shape that is not ''correct'' as far original condition. You'll want the later ones, preferably 1944-45 as those had spot heat treating at the front of the slide and at the slide lock area. A decent Remington Rand can still be found for reasonable coin if you want to take the time to look for one.

This is a Colt WWII Reissue, I picked this up pretty cheap, however, the WWI's were done better as far as being more ''accurate'' in detail. The WWII's seem to be harder to find. The carbonia blued WWI's are the best looking of all the Reissues IMHO.



The WWI carbona blued Reissue.

Link Posted: 7/12/2017 9:42:38 PM EDT
[#2]
My buddy has one of the carbonia blued 1911 clones. I've lusted after that thing since the first time I saw it. It was tight without being too tight, as beautiful, and had one of the best stock triggers of any gun I've ever shot (though I am currently a Glock guy, so that is a pretty low bar ). I'd be equally happy with the black oxide though. As I recall, the 1911 anniversary pistol is exactly the same as the 1911 reproduction but with different roll marks, yes? It seems they are more common and cheaper. 
Link Posted: 7/12/2017 10:04:52 PM EDT
[#3]
No one knows when or if a vintage 1911/A1 will let go. I have shot multiple examples for many years with no issues long before everyone got hyped up on spring replacement intervals and such.
Considering a vintage Unmolested military issue gun these days is quite valuable the advice to use a more current reproduction is valid ( keep in mind they cost about as much as an average military condition gun when you can find them) I had a ww1 reproduction that was a great shooter
Link Posted: 7/12/2017 10:07:50 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
No one knows when or if a vintage 1911/A1 will let go. I have shot multiple examples for many years with no issues long before everyone got hyped up on spring replacement intervals and such.
Considering a vintage Unmolested military issue gun these days is quite valuable the advice to use a more current reproduction is valid ( keep in mind they cost about as much as an average military condition gun when you can find them) I had a ww1 reproduction that was a great shooter
View Quote
This is my conflict. The originals are far more numerous on gunbroker and roughly the same price. ETA: I'm thinking I will eventually "get both", but I can't get both at once. 
Link Posted: 7/12/2017 10:20:28 PM EDT
[#5]
This is my GI shooter.

Frame and slide are matching, all Colt, BBL is Colt but a year or so newer. 734xxx SN.

[/img]

I bought it because

1. It was a couple hundred bucks.

2. It reminded me of my 1911's while in, pretty much no finish but still shot perfectly fine.
Link Posted: 7/13/2017 12:25:26 AM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:
This is my GI shooter.

Frame and slide are matching, all Colt, BBL is Colt but a year or so newer. 734xxx SN.

http://i68.tinypic.com/2jbw7sw.jpg[/url]

I bought it because

1. It was a couple hundred bucks.

2. It reminded me of my 1911's while in, pretty much no finish but still shot perfectly fine.
View Quote
I would love to find a similar condition military gun ( even the most common Remington Rand) for 200 bucks! I would buy ten!
Link Posted: 7/14/2017 3:53:35 PM EDT
[#7]
I've been giving this some thought. What really made me want a vintage style 1911 was shooting my buddy's Colt WWI repro. That thing is one of the most beautiful firearms I've ever seen, and shoots really well. I'm thinking I'm going to try for a reproduction for use as a fun gun. I've been going through gunbroker completed listings trying to determine the value, but the vast majority of listings are listed too high to sell. I'm curious what the experts consider the Colt WWI repros to be worth. 

I'm also finding the Colt anniversary pistols more often and a lot cheaper. There are two on Gunbroker right now for under $1000. I'd much prefer the WWI for rollmark reasons, but if I'm eventually going to get an original  anyway, it doesn't matter so much. 
Link Posted: 7/17/2017 3:35:44 PM EDT
[#8]
I also want a GI style 1911.

I know Colt has repops out there... my scheme is to just buy a GI RIA and adapt it to a A1.  From what I have figured out so far it will need grips, arched mainspring housing and the shorter trigger.

It won't be perfect but it will be pretty close.  

I am going for a just before wartime pistol with walnut full checker grips.  The RIA is parkerized not blued and of course the rollmarks will be wrong.  Just as soon the finish wore off to the nice sleek well used look and I am not getting hung up on the rollmark.  I know there are other smaller differences that will give the correct police a stroke too but I think for a shooter it will be pretty close.
Link Posted: 7/17/2017 4:28:22 PM EDT
[#9]
I think chiappa makes a pretty decent clone
Link Posted: 7/17/2017 7:35:36 PM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:
I think chiappa makes a pretty decent clone
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Oh God no.
Link Posted: 7/18/2017 5:17:16 PM EDT
[#11]
The WW1 that Rock Island makes for Cimarron is quite nice...I have the parkerized version and it shoots really well.

Blued version:

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 7/19/2017 11:34:14 AM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
The WW1 that Rock Island makes for Cimarron is quite nice...I have the parkerized version and it shoots really well.

Blued version:

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/95225/IMG-2145-257251.JPG
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That is nice for what it is, but my OCD kicks in and this reproduction, like all others has parts that are not even close to original spec. On your photo, the thumb safety is a commercial, not military style, hammer looks late WWII style, and the trigger is not a 1911 GI style trigger. IIRC on the other side, the ejection port is also commercial style. There are similar issues on the 1911A1s on the market as well. I ended up building my own from GI parts acquired here and there using a 1980s replacement slide and barrel in order to have a "shooter".

Link Posted: 7/19/2017 12:16:36 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:
Oh God no.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I think chiappa makes a pretty decent clone
Oh God no.
Sorry, wrong company. The pic above was the one I was thinking off
Link Posted: 7/19/2017 7:14:46 PM EDT
[#14]
What about some of the Argentinian Colts? or maybe a Ballester Molina?
I think they are still available and reasonably affordable.
Link Posted: 7/19/2017 9:25:06 PM EDT
[#15]
Thanks for the advice, folks. I'm 87% sure that I'm going to try and pick up either a Colt WWI repro or the nearly identical Colt Anniversary 1911. I'm soon going to start my first real job, and want to celebrate with a frivilous purchase that I will enjoy. I do eventually intend to get some originals at some point. 
Link Posted: 7/24/2017 3:43:09 AM EDT
[#16]
O.P. Using an old gun with fatigued springs will eventually beat it up. Springs under compression have a finite lifespan.

Pick up a WWII Remington Rand. Install new springs, put the originals in the drawer and enjoy owning and using the real deal.
Link Posted: 7/24/2017 3:40:41 PM EDT
[#17]
CMP will be selling originals very soon.
Link Posted: 7/24/2017 4:04:54 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
O.P. Using an old gun with fatigued springs will eventually beat it up. Springs under compression have a finite lifespan.

Pick up a WWII Remington Rand. Install new springs, put the originals in the drawer and enjoy owning and using the real deal.
View Quote
I'm currently watching a refinished WW1 1911 on Gunbroker. Assuming fresh springs and all that, would this be a reasonable shooter? The 1911 forums make it sound like these things will grenade at low round counts. I won't shoot it THAT much, but would like a reasonable facsimile to take out once in awhile. My main goal is to get a M1917 and a 1897 Winchester in riot configuration to do outlaw 3-gun matches once in a blue moon. 
Link Posted: 7/24/2017 4:14:53 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I'm currently watching a refinished WW1 1911 on Gunbroker. Assuming fresh springs and all that, would this be a reasonable shooter? The 1911 forums make it sound like these things will grenade at low round counts. I won't shoot it THAT much, but would like a reasonable facsimile to take out once in awhile. My main goal is to get a M1917 and a 1897 Winchester in riot configuration to do outlaw 3-gun matches once in a blue moon. 
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
O.P. Using an old gun with fatigued springs will eventually beat it up. Springs under compression have a finite lifespan.

Pick up a WWII Remington Rand. Install new springs, put the originals in the drawer and enjoy owning and using the real deal.
I'm currently watching a refinished WW1 1911 on Gunbroker. Assuming fresh springs and all that, would this be a reasonable shooter? The 1911 forums make it sound like these things will grenade at low round counts. I won't shoot it THAT much, but would like a reasonable facsimile to take out once in awhile. My main goal is to get a M1917 and a 1897 Winchester in riot configuration to do outlaw 3-gun matches once in a blue moon. 
There was NO heat treating on the 1911's, the slides are the issue, service life was supposedly 5000 rounds, the frames do quite well though. I'd look for a newer 44/45 remington rand myself if I wanted to shoot a USGI .45. They are the lowest price and had the heat treating on the front of the slide and at the slide lock notch plus of course the FP insert in the  slide. A decent shooter is still reasonably priced.
Link Posted: 7/24/2017 4:34:00 PM EDT
[#20]
I've shot both before, and am not a huge fan of the short trigger/arched mainspring housing. I found my buddy's WW1 repro to fit like a glove. I think I'm going to keep a look out for the WWI repro on gunbroker or the EE. I think my plan is to buy the repro first and then get an original to collect at some point in the future. 
Link Posted: 7/24/2017 4:54:28 PM EDT
[#21]
How good is your eyesight?   Because the original sights are crap if you're much over 40.
Link Posted: 7/24/2017 7:53:24 PM EDT
[#22]
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Quoted:
How good is your eyesight?   Because the original sights are crap if you're much over 40.
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I had no problems last time I shot one. Granted that was 5 years ago. 

ETA: I'm not looking to win single stack at USPSA with it. I'm looking to have fun with a period correct feeling WWI/WWII pistol. 
Link Posted: 7/28/2017 9:42:32 AM EDT
[#23]
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Quoted:
Go buy a WWI or WW2 reissue from Colt. [secondary market] Shoot to your hearts content.

You'll want the later ones, preferably 1944-45 as those had spot heat treating at the front of the slide and at the slide lock area.
View Quote
This is incorrect. Beginning in 1940 the front of the slides were hardened. When the final finish was applied, it often resulted in a difference of color between the non hardened and hardened areas. Up to 1942 this was cause for the slide to rejected or sent back for refinish. After 1942 the the difference in color was deemed acceptable and was no longer cause for rejection. All Colt, Remington-Rand Union Switch and Signal and Ithaca pistols produced with the 1942-45 time frame will show this difference in finish color to a greater or lessor extent. The earlier pistols that were blued (Colt) or Dulite blued (R-R, US&S, Ithaca) where very prone to showing the two-tone appearance. After mid year 1943 the slide lock area was flame hardened and will also show this color difference

1942 Colt


As others have said, these are far too valuable to shoot and if all you need is a good representative example, by all means get a reproduction.
Link Posted: 7/28/2017 10:02:04 AM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
This is incorrect. Beginning in 1940 the front of the slides were hardened. When the final finish was applied, it often resulted in a difference of color between the non hardened and hardened areas. Up to 1942 this was cause for the slide to rejected or sent back for refinish. After 1942 the the difference in color was deemed acceptable and was no longer cause for rejection. All Colt, Remington-Rand Union Switch and Signal and Ithaca pistols produced with the 1942-45 time frame will show this difference in finish color to a greater or lessor extent. The earlier pistols that were blued (Colt) or Dulite blued (R-R, US&S, Ithaca) where very prone to showing the two-tone appearance. After mid year 1943 the slide lock area was flame hardened and will also show this color difference

1942 Colt
https://photos.smugmug.com/Firearms/Colts/Colt-1911-A1/i-2zMvk84/0/0cc9c98b/L/IMG_3642-L.jpg

As others have said, these are far too valuable to shoot and if all you need is a good representative example, by all means get a reproduction.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Go buy a WWI or WW2 reissue from Colt. [secondary market] Shoot to your hearts content.

You'll want the later ones, preferably 1944-45 as those had spot heat treating at the front of the slide and at the slide lock area.
This is incorrect. Beginning in 1940 the front of the slides were hardened. When the final finish was applied, it often resulted in a difference of color between the non hardened and hardened areas. Up to 1942 this was cause for the slide to rejected or sent back for refinish. After 1942 the the difference in color was deemed acceptable and was no longer cause for rejection. All Colt, Remington-Rand Union Switch and Signal and Ithaca pistols produced with the 1942-45 time frame will show this difference in finish color to a greater or lessor extent. The earlier pistols that were blued (Colt) or Dulite blued (R-R, US&S, Ithaca) where very prone to showing the two-tone appearance. After mid year 1943 the slide lock area was flame hardened and will also show this color difference

1942 Colt
https://photos.smugmug.com/Firearms/Colts/Colt-1911-A1/i-2zMvk84/0/0cc9c98b/L/IMG_3642-L.jpg

As others have said, these are far too valuable to shoot and if all you need is a good representative example, by all means get a reproduction.
Uh, exactly how was I incorrect? I said nothing about the color difference which is especially noticeable once refinished and I wouldn't actively shoot a pristine USGI or 1911A1 in original condition in the first place.

I have 2 700,00 range 1941's, one's a shooter [even though it's pretty much correct the finish is about what my Army one's had in the mid 80s so I don't feel bad] and one isn't.

Your 1940 is beautiful.

I keep toying with shooting a mutt I have but it has a real nice original finish US&S frame and parts under a RR slide and the damn frame and parts alone is worth 3X+ what I paid for the entire pistol.
Link Posted: 7/28/2017 12:10:40 PM EDT
[#25]
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Quoted:


Uh, exactly how was I incorrect? I said nothing about the color difference which is especially noticeable once refinished and I wouldn't actively shoot a pristine USGI or 1911A1 in original condition in the first place.

I have 2 700,00 range 1941's, one's a shooter [even though it's pretty much correct the finish is about what my Army one's had in the mid 80s so I don't feel bad] and one isn't.

Your 1940 is beautiful.

I keep toying with shooting a mutt I have but it has a real nice original finish US&S frame and parts under a RR slide and the damn frame and parts alone is worth 3X+ what I paid for the entire pistol.
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You weren't off by much. I was merely pointing out that the heat treating for the slide started in '40 and they included the slide stop area in '43, so really any USGI 1911-A1 made from 1940 on would have the heat treating.

I am jealous that you have even that much of a US&S. It is the one WWII GI pistol, besides a Singer, that has always eluded me. I have both an Ithaca and a R-R in addition to the Colt, but those darn Union Switch 1911-A1's are getting to be real hard to find. I did score a 97%+ 1917 Colt a few weeks ago, so I am not going to complain too much.



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