I own a couple of 1911's with a two piece guide rod that requires a tool to take down.

Whats the idea behind this as opposed to a FLGR?

They are easier to remove then some FLGR personally I throw the 2 Piece guide rods in the trash and replace with one piece or a GI rod and spring plug.. 2 Piece Guide rods have a tendency to come loose they are more trouble then they are good IMO.

Exactly. Except for the part about being easier to remove,  it's harder to put back together, IMO. The one that came on my Springfield loaded model kept coming loose. I took a class and was getting out my leatherman tool after each stage to tighten it. I finally replaced it with GI parts. I recently got a ria tactical that has a 1 piece flgr I'm not super thrilled, but at least it won't come on screwed while shooting so I'll just keep that one.

FLGRs are a solution waiting for a problem....

The 2 piece FLGR are for sure. I have literally 10s of thousands of rounds out of guns with 1 piece FLGR with zero issues to report..

a one piece guide rod with hole to capture the spring and plug requires that the ridge on the rear of the spring tunnel be removed so the assembly comes out the rear of the slide... a two piece does not require the ridge to be removed....

They were sold as a possible way to increase accuracy. I haven't seen any data to support that. What they will do is make it more difficult to break down your pistol.

IMO they are "a feature" intended to "increase value" in the mind of the customer.

Other than that they are useless.

I've had 2 that use flgr's.

My para used a slightly shorter than "full" and an open plug which could be pressed in fairly easily. Takedown was barely any more difficult than a stock pistol. No issues whatsoever from the gun.

The springer I have came to me with a 2pc, that used a 3/16 Allen key. Fuck that thing. While I never had it work loose (300 rds in one day is the most), it was still in the back of my mind. Requiring a tool for takedown was stupid. It did not cause any issues in actual use. It's been replaced by standard Wilson parts, and I've since had no concerns over potential failure.

Im not morally opposed to the flgr, as long as it's a 1pc that can still be taken down like stock (like the para). Otherwise, GI is just fine.

I can imagine there being a perceived advantage by using a flgr, especially if it's heavy metal like tungsten, to counter muzzle rise. From a functional standpoint, I agree that it's a solution waiting for a problem, otherwise I can't fathom how we made it from 1911 to the 80s without incident.

What I've read is that the purpose was to increase weight to reduce recoil. Kinda weird though to be putting them on so many guns that are marketed as carry guns. When I changed out the system on my Springfield I also changed the recoil spring to what I recall being a S&W OEM spring and I did notice a lot more muzzle flip, don't know if it was the spring or the guide rod weight? I didn't shoot it much, I put a wolf extra power spring in it a few weeks ago and shot it and the recoil felt no different that any of the GI guns I've shot.

The 1 piece flgr on my ria is the short style that allows you to press the plug in ( open end though) and turn the barrel bushing. Takes down the same as a GI gun except it's a little harder on the thumb to press the plug down, I used a flat screw driver to push on the edge.

Honestly I think they look cool.... Lol

The only time I used full length on a 1911 was to make switch top guns.
It makes it very quick and easy to slider the entire upper off the frame and slide a different one on.
With a ramped barrel.

In less than 30 seconds I can go from .45 ACP to .38 Super. and have the exact same tyrigger feel.

I rather like one piece FLGRs but will always get rid of a 2-piece.  I don't want to carry around a hex wrench and I don't want to worry about it unscrewing.

Mag floor plate is a handy tool to use to press the plug down.

Once again, *I* float against the tide.  

I actually prefer the two-piece design. I never had an issue with one coming apart & for those that did, a small bit of green lok-tite or Teflon tape on the threads would solve all issues.

I've heard for years the "lessening of recoil" claim but I've yet to see it, feel it or understand it. What I believe it does is help the recoil spring straight and smooth while compressing and returning. A drop or three of oil on the guide rod allows the spring to move smoothly & that's what I try to do with mine.

My .o2

Standard FLGR do nothing for recoil.  Some made for the competition games are made out of Tungsten. Those will reduce muzzle flip slightly.

Consider this.  Original military 1911 used GI setup.  There is a reason.
I have seen WW1 originals at the range still working like a champ.

Stating original GI is better is a pretty weak argument. We've come a long way since then in machining ability and technologically. I have a 2 piece in my 460R gun because it came with one in the kit from Clark Customs.  I use it regardless of what barrel is installed now. It makes installing the 460 kit much easier. For a run of the mill 1911 a 1 piece ir gi will work fine. My 2 piece has never worked loose at all. one single drop of thread locker on it, allowed to dry, THEN assembled and the threads are plenty tight and I have also had no issues taking it apart.

Why anything but a short GI Guide and Plug?