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Posted: 10/6/2002 10:35:37 AM EDT
Hey, I just got a sprinfield 1911 milspec operator, and it is a pretty basic gun. No fancy triggers, standard hammer, and regular grip safety. 3-dot combat sights (which I love), and thats about it.

I was wondering if there are any basic things to do to the gun for reliability/overall functionality purposes.

I kinda like the plain old 1911 hammer, but I do want a beavertail grip safety, so I can get my grip up a little more. But Im guessing if I replace one I gotta replace the other. Anyways, if I do, is there anyone that makes a regular plain old "combat commander" style hammer? I like the regular spur one, that just has the circular hole in it. I dont particularly like the new skeleton fancy hammers.

I want it to stay with the rugged combat look, but be functional and reliable. What should I do?
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 10:50:03 AM EDT
Go with all Wilson Combat inner parts. Trigger, hammer, sear, springs, shock buff. Get a Smith & Alexander beaver-tail safety, it comes with the cutting jig.

Now if you really want to be the bad ass, get a .400CORBON bbl from Ed Brown to top it all off. You still use the same mags and slide as a .45ACP but you have a rocket coming out of the bbl.

Link Posted: 10/6/2002 11:05:13 AM EDT
I have the hammer you're talking about on my 1991A1. It was a no name part i got from who knows where.

I would look to Gun Parts Corporation in New York or Brownells. I don't think any of the high dollar 1911 part makers produce them. I'm like you and wanted to keep it Old Mil looking!

Gun parts is online now. You could find them with a google search. Brownells website is aggravating and totally sucks. But there catalogue it good.
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 11:16:29 AM EDT
Get ready for the LONG RIDE...tweek replace that, one thing or another, for ever. Unless your lucky.

Those Mil Look 1911's reminded me of my old Jag. Looked great, ran 3 days a month.
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 11:26:36 AM EDT
Well...thats encouraging...

How much of this stuff can I replace myself? Or do I need a gunsmith to do a hammer or grip safety, sear or trigger?

Scott
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 11:45:10 AM EDT
I am no gunsmith but my MilSpec, in 400CORBON, runs like a champ. Go with quality parts, cheap shit ends up getting replaced.

go to
www.wilsoncombat.com/accessories/access_index.htm

Get the trigger,hammer, "group gripper" 2 piece full length guiderod, sear spring, sear, shok-buff, 19# hammer spring, recoil spring (diff weights for different loads).

On the Wilson hammer,sear and trigger go with the cheaper ones because they are all quaranteed for life. The sales person at Wilson told me the Valueline stuff will last forever and the higher dollar ones are not needed.


and

www.smithandalexander.com


Get the mag guide and beaver tail safety here.


All of this stuff is easy to install. You will need a dremmel tool for the beaver tail safety. With a little time and patience everything will go together perfect. The Smith & Alexander beaver tail is made specifically for a Springfield and it will work great. The Wilson safety will not line up and look "right" to the reciever. You should have no problen with this stuff.


Link Posted: 10/6/2002 1:28:25 PM EDT
Just a question, what tools will I need to replace this stuff?

My handgun disassembly experience involves a whopping total of basic maintainence on a beretta 92fs, and now a springfield 1911. Never taken them down past basic field stripping. So what tools will I need, and can anyone do this? Lastly, with a springfield mil-spec, will any of these parts require modification? Wilson says a few parts may need modification. What do you think?

Scott
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 1:31:16 PM EDT
One last thing...should I replace the barrel bushing? Thanks again!
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 1:35:34 PM EDT
Just feed it hardball ammo and leave it alone. It will perform just fine.
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 1:35:58 PM EDT
I would get a few hundred rounds thru the pistol before you go hacking it to pieces!

I wouldn't replace anything that didn't need to be replaced. The S&A beavertail is easy to install if you are patient and marginally skilled.
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 1:38:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/6/2002 1:42:02 PM EDT by Marksman14]
You guys are gonna shoot me...

I notice that there are only blued and stainless finishes available for the external parts....

I have the basic springfield finish on the 1911. Its a black/dark dark grey finish. Would a blued finish look alright on it for a beavertail grip safety?

And if I replace the grip safety, I have to replace the hammer, correct?

Thanks again (and again)...
Scott
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 1:39:23 PM EDT
Run some hardball through it and break it in first. Although, a shock buff might not be a bad idea.
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 1:42:14 PM EDT
I put the blued S&A on a parked gun. Can't even notice the diff.

You can get it parked later if necessary.
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 1:57:21 PM EDT
Dont worry, I'll break it in first, I just wanna know what to plan on.

Anyone got some pics of their 1911's? If ya do, please name the gun you have, and the parts you added.

Thanks,
scott
Link Posted: 10/6/2002 2:02:09 PM EDT
Solve all your problems and get your questions answered at once. These guys are great. They have done stuff on several of my 1911s.

www.1911-heaven.com
Link Posted: 10/7/2002 4:45:58 AM EDT
My older series '90 parkerized, feeds anything (LWC & JHP) that fits in the magazine. I hope yours will too, Marksman14.
Other than a lighter hammer spring and an adjustable rear sight, I have used mine in a match, as is.
It still even has the lanyard loop in the mainspring housing. (combat look?)
Link Posted: 10/7/2002 7:30:56 AM EDT
Don't do anything to it.

Just sell it to one of these guys who are always posting here saying they "want a plain-jane mil-spec .45".

Of course the first thing these guys usually do once they shoot their "mil-spec .45", is start looking around for replacement parts.

If you want a gun with a nice beavertail and decent trigger, just buy one of the Kimbers or Springfield Loaded 1911's, and save yourself a ton of headaches and money on the front end.
Link Posted: 10/7/2002 10:55:50 AM EDT
You can use a beavertail with the standard hammer. Some are designed for that, others are designed for the burr hammer. Personally I wouldn't do anything to it unless I found out that I needed it to improve reliability or my ability to handle the gun. If you are going to change out all the parts you should have bought a different gun to start with.
Link Posted: 10/8/2002 9:34:28 PM EDT

Originally Posted By M-Forgery:
Just feed it hardball ammo and leave it alone. It will perform just fine.



What he said.

If you wanted a fancy gun, why didn't you just buy one. The idea behind having a Mil Spec 1911 is to have a MIL SPEC 1911.
Link Posted: 10/10/2002 6:20:25 PM EDT
For the same reason people put optics of their choice on a "milspec" bushy AR15.

Just cause its mil-spec doesnt mean I cant do anything to it...

I just wanted a good entry model 1911. I only plan on changing out the grip safety and hammer, Beavertail because its easier to grip, and a combat commander style hammer because I like the way they look, and they are a somewhat military looking hammer.
Link Posted: 10/11/2002 9:41:53 PM EDT
Granted, custom guns look and feel great, but with the exception of a Match trigger to accomidate my finger length, my Mil-Spec is exactly that,....Mil-Spec. All business, no flash.
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