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Posted: 4/21/2002 5:04:06 PM EDT
have a 70 series gov model and wanted too put a different hammer and trigger on it, (and have no previous gunsmithing experience) this might be a stupid question but would this be a job that I could attempt I would like too learn about 1911's and gunsmithing would this be a good start?
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 7:17:50 PM EDT
[#1]
DO NOT take what I say as gospel, for I know very little about .45s, but as far as I know, there is no such thing as a "drop-in" trigger or hammer for a 1911. I would get a gunsmith to do it. Cost for the work shouldn't be much, and the price would be well worth it in the long run.
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 8:02:24 PM EDT
[#2]
True, some "drop in" better than others.  Don't skimp on parts, better chance of long term happiness with a few extra bucks spent. Look at it this way...you can always put it back the way it was. If I may recommend, maybe changing one part at a time, making it easier to trace back any potential problem. I wouldn't alter the gun to fit the part, either.
Link Posted: 4/21/2002 8:37:38 PM EDT
[#3]
Read lots of stuff like this first.

www.pistolsmith.com/viewtopic.php?topic=8964&forum=41&0

Link Posted: 4/22/2002 9:53:53 AM EDT
[#4]
one part at a time sounds like working on cars usually I try too do just one thing at a time so if something goes wrong I can pinpoint the problem.  

So could I start with a hammer? or do you have too do a trigger first? right now I have a stock hammer that has been bobbed and it looks funky, I would like too swap it.
Link Posted: 4/22/2002 2:55:04 PM EDT
[#5]
The hammer would come off before you even get to the trigger, so that sounds logical...enjoy! (Just in case you dont know, the screw in the mag release is not a screw, dont force it.)
Link Posted: 4/22/2002 7:21:09 PM EDT
[#6]
Do it yourself gunsmithing
or
I can do it, I can  destroy a perfectly good gun.

I would look at it like this if it is your first time working on your own gun then take it real slow and ask about a million people who know what they are talking about.

I want to tune up some of my revolvers so I bought I used S&W model 10 in good shape for a 100 bucks to practice on and did not use my 600 dollar smith. When I am confident I can do what I want I will work on my more expensive guns.

If it is not your gun then go right ahead fix it, take it apart, play with it.
Link Posted: 4/23/2002 3:23:22 AM EDT
[#7]
Learned my 1911 mods on a amt hardballer....that way there would`nt be any extreme expense if I did screw up......a mediocre pistol...actually turned out to be very successful......but yes.....slow for sure...AND the thing comes apart..goes together.....MANY times....sometimes parts are bought again...till it gets right......just don`t hurt the frame/slide....if not sure...stop....study the schematic extensively............OH....leave the high-tech work for the experienced and well equipped guys.....that is any machining..frame mods etc.
Link Posted: 4/23/2002 4:57:50 AM EDT
[#8]
A Hardballer! I had an early one that needed gunsmithing just to work! LOL!  
Link Posted: 4/23/2002 9:46:20 AM EDT
[#9]
If you are even quasi-interested in working on your own 1911's, I highly recommend buying the Kuhnhausen shop manual (vol 1) first thing.  It's a very thorough and helpful reference, mostly for the "this is how this part is supposed to act" and the "when removing metal from this part, DO NOT change this angle" advice.

You will end up buying it sooner or later... how many mistakes are you going to make before you buy it, though?

Having gotten that off my chest, dropping in a hammer isn't difficult.  Depending on the maker, you may have to do some to no fitting.  As long as it works like it's supposed to (safeties work as designed, hammer doesn't follow slide, etc.) you won't have a problem.  But be advised that many elongated hammers won't work with the factory grip safety.  Most aftermarket grip safeties are relieved to accomodate the longer hammer.  

So you can see that there can be something of a domino effect when working on the 1911.  

Installing a new trigger is easier.  Might as well buy a new sear spring to help lighten the pull somewhat as well.
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