This was a Colt that I recently reblued using a mixture of lye and ammonium nitrate.  More photos, complete recipe, and photos of a Browning High Power done the same way are at my site.

www.geocities.com/kemays

It is hard to tell looking at a picture, but it appears to me that your bluing is only on the surface. If it starts to wear off, maybe you might want to look at a product that I use.
"Van's Instant Gun Blue" Years ago I saw the owner of this product doing a demo at a gun show, which amazed me. This stuff goes deep into the metal and gives a nice satin blue/black finish. For touch-ups some extra fine steel wool and the product will degrease. Then you apply chemical with a clean cloth and let it soak a few minutes. Wipe any remaining product, lightly buff and oil, and like magic you can never see where the bare spot was. I have used this product for full bluing, by removing old blue, carefully hand sand and polish, then I use a regular degreaser, and at this point I never touch the metal with my bare hands. I then warm the metal in the oven and follow the product directions to completion.
I don't think they have a website, but here is the full company name. They are in the web phonebook...........C.S. Van Gorden & Son Inc., Bloomer, WI

Quoted: It is hard to tell looking at a picture, but it appears to me that your bluing is only on the surface. If it starts to wear off, maybe you might want to look at a product that I use.

You can vary the depth of the blue by leaving the parts in the solution longer.  This process is the same as hot-bluing except you make the bluing salts yourself instead of buying them.  

I've never been satisfied with any cold blue I've ever tried... it always wore off too easily.  My Browning has been to the range several times with no signs of wear so far.  I will post updated photos at some point to see how well they hold up.