I posted pics of this gun in the white.  It just got reblued today courtesy of The Weapon Works Gunsmithing in Phoenix.  I love this gun.

How much does it usually cost to get a pistol blued? The black "paint" on my FM chipped and looks a bit ugly. After I do my disconnect omit, I want to get it blued.

Good question.  I wish I could tell you.  What you see here is a matte reblue.  It was stripped and bead blasted, dunked 4 separate times, tehn oiled and reassembled.  That's what is involved labor wise in a nutshell, and my friend charges $130 for that, I believe.  

If you want it blued to a factory high polish, then the price goes up about $30.  That's at this place, which is about average.  I've seen some places that cost a little less, like $95 for a matte blue.  I've seen others charge $275 for a high polish blue.  I guess it just depends.  

My friend does not really take any non walk in work, as he has more than enough to keep him busy.  If you want it done, I would check with the Action Works in Chino Valley, Az.  Don Williams, the owner, is very well known for his top notch gunsmithing, and if you check his site, his prices are on the low side, almost cheap considering his skill level.  

Action Works

Wow, thats alot. I guess the finishing job will have to wait a bit.

You can have it coated cheaper....just a thought.  It's caoted now, and many Hi-Powers come from FN coated.  This .40 was coated.  There is a guy here on ARF that does coating very cheap.  I think his site said $50.00.

I like that stippling on the front and back straps. How it was done? What tool you use?

Some guys use a tool (I have no idea what it's called, but it's like a pneumatic reciprocating punch).  Others use a punch with a hammer, which is much slower.  I'm in the latter camp, as I rarely stipple anything.  

I take a steel punch (any size will do, as long as it has a failry thck shank), and I grind it to a point on 3 sides.  It doesn't have to be very precise, as you are just looking to raise burrs.  Then I harden the tip with a torch, heating it red hot, then quenching in oil.  

Working on some scrap metal or a junker frame will give you a quick idea on how to do this.  You just place your piece in a vise, place the punch tip on the metal, trying to keep it perpendicular to the surface, and start hammering.  If you hold it above your work a little, you will get a larger burr.  If you have a larger, heavier punch, you will have a larger burr.  You just keep hammering away at the surface, letting hits overlap.  Eventually, you will have it all covered.  Also, realize that on the edges you will be prone to slippage, so a piece of scrap metal braced up against the side can act as a guide.  I did not use one, but I would have if I had intentionally done this gun for someone else.