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Posted: 7/31/2003 7:03:15 PM EDT
When I finally get my Mil-Spec and start adding the features I want, who can I send the frame to, to have an O.D. Green finish applied? Can i have the whole frame, including the grip safety, ect. done this way, also? I saw a 1911, I believe it was a Kimber? with a O.D. frame and a black? parked? slide. It looked very good to me, and I would like to have my Mil-Spec done similarly. Any suggestions? My next question is, does the Mil-spec come in blued, or is it only available in stainless, and parkerized? Thanks for helping a newbie to 1911's.
Link Posted: 7/31/2003 7:31:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/31/2003 7:32:52 PM EDT by DsrtEgl50]
Would that be my Custom made 10mm?



more details about it are in this thread...

Basically, my suggestion would be to have the parts blasted with aluminum oxide, parkerized with zinc or manganese phosphate and coated with GunKote. All of these things are quite simple to do yourself.

Edited to add: I believe the mil-spec comes parkerized, so really all you would need is to apply the GunKote.

HTH

Jonathan
Link Posted: 8/1/2003 5:30:50 AM EDT
Send it to the Springfield Custom shop. They have one of the best finishes out there with their Armory Kote. The OD one I had was great. I regret ever getting rid of it.
Link Posted: 8/1/2003 8:40:01 AM EDT

Originally Posted By DsrtEgl50:
Would that be my Custom made 10mm?

more details about it are in this thread...

Basically, my suggestion would be to have the parts blasted with aluminum oxide, parkerized with zinc or manganese phosphate and coated with GunKote. All of these things are quite simple to do yourself.

Edited to add: I believe the mil-spec comes parkerized, so really all you would need is to apply the GunKote.

HTH

Jonathan



Wow, nice gun! I don't think I've seen that specific gun, but it looked alot like it. It also answers my question about if I need to have the beavertail finished. Nope, it looks great in black against the green. Thanks for the suggestions.

Hawkeye, any idea how much it would cost to have the OD finish put on my frame at the factory?
Thanks for the responses.
Link Posted: 8/1/2003 8:47:47 AM EDT
I beleive (dont hold me to it) that it is aorund $125 for the whole gun. Just call the 800# for SA, and ask for Deb in the custom shop. Really great lady to talk to.
Link Posted: 8/1/2003 9:19:50 AM EDT
Yeah, its $125 for Armory Kote, $175 for the Black T (which comes in green, supposed to wear longer and have some self-lubricating properties). Shipping excluded.

I've tried a couple different spray-and-bake finishes, though none of the factory offerings (a little expensive just for testing). The GunKote is difficult to scratch, and once scratched doesn't chip. Its a very thin coating, and resistant to every chemical cleaner I've thrown at it.

The GunKote is $30 (shipping included) and an airbrush at Walmart is around $20. With the parkerized parts, you should be able to apply the finish over the rough parkerizing with great results. With stainless, you might need to sandblast any smooth areas to rough them up. Sandblaster is $13 at Walmart and aluminum oxide media is pretty cheap (Got 22lbs from Harbor Frieght for $10? and used less than a pound of it sandblasting the frame twice). You can use a cardboard box for a cabinet. Of course, you'll need an air compressor.

IMO, the nicest thing about the GunKote route is that when (not if) you scratch the finish, touching it up is a simple matter.

Jonathan
Link Posted: 8/1/2003 9:45:21 AM EDT
I also just wanted to throw in here, that having seen Black-T on a few things, I am VERY impressed with SA's finish. I really just about like it better than Black-T.
For a do it yourself job, GunKote would be a good choice.
If you want to have it done for you, in my opinion, SA cant be beat.
Link Posted: 8/1/2003 10:29:16 AM EDT
Too Bad www.trippresearch.com isn't going to around for long...I like their Matte hard Chrome slide over a teflon'ed frame.
Link Posted: 8/1/2003 10:52:06 PM EDT

Originally Posted By DsrtEgl50:
Would that be my Custom made 10mm?

www.cs.utk.edu/~jturnmir/TurnmireX.jpg

more details about it are in this thread...

Basically, my suggestion would be to have the parts blasted with aluminum oxide, parkerized with zinc or manganese phosphate and coated with GunKote. All of these things are quite simple to do yourself.

Edited to add: I believe the mil-spec comes parkerized, so really all you would need is to apply the GunKote.

HTH

Jonathan


sweet!
Link Posted: 8/2/2003 12:08:31 AM EDT
The one, the only www.azexarms.com
Link Posted: 8/3/2003 10:35:22 AM EDT
I second AZEX Arms...he has done one rifle for me that was a work of art and has done 3 1911's for a very good friend of mine who is very picky...he believes AZEX's parkote to be the best finish out there and he has had them all (REALLY). I concur with his conclusion.
Link Posted: 8/13/2003 7:08:28 PM EDT
For black (Black-T) for OD green (Green-T). Both from W.E. Birdsong and Associates. Same place SA and others send their stuff to for the Black-T, but dealing direct saves you $. Had a SA 1911 done at the beginning of the year in the Black-T direct from W.E. Birdsong, saved about $ 50 from SA's price if I remember right. Also shipping was a lot faster, had it back in 2 weeks. Definitely a great finish. (Just my .02).
Link Posted: 8/14/2003 7:25:24 AM EDT
pupp86;

Ol' Walter is a great guy and his finish is really nice stuff...but if you got a job done by him and returned in two weeks you missed the best chance you will EVER have to buy a winning lotto ticket that same day!

Link Posted: 8/15/2003 8:44:17 PM EDT

Originally Posted By ikor:
pupp86;

Ol' Walter is a great guy and his finish is really nice stuff...but if you got a job done by him and returned in two weeks you missed the best chance you will EVER have to buy a winning lotto ticket that same day!




Probally should have gotten two then. Sent some mags in just before 7/04, recieved them back 7/21. Just a little over two weeks but worth the wait.
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