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Posted: 1/18/2006 7:51:11 PM EDT
I have an initial $500.00 to invest in modifications on a Springfield Mil-Spec (Not GI) 1911. My objective is to prepare it to be my primary carry handgun. So far, 200 break-in rounds, no problems. Relliability #1 Goal. It doesn't have to be pretty, it just needs needs to protect me and my family if needed. Where shall I start and what Smiths are recommended. Experienced replys only, not opinions.
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 7:56:32 PM EDT
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 8:03:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/18/2006 8:04:51 PM EDT by Combat_Jack]
Sights and whatever beavertail/hammer mods you require to shoot comfortably (if you need any mods there). A new MSH to disable the ILS, if it is so equipped. A wilson extractor, properly tuned.

Thats at a minimum. With more money, I would replace all the MIM and get a new, tuned ignition set.

Any of the LTW smiths can work on my guns, anytime.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 1:56:39 PM EDT
Sights & trigger, IMO. I also junked the crappy two-piece barrel in favor of a Wilson one-piece unit. It now shoots as well or better than a Gold Cup, IMO.

My .o2
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 5:31:43 PM EDT
If I change out the barrel shall I also change the Bushing? Thanks so far for the recommendations. I know this MOD Questions has been asked a zillion times, however, I need some practical and functional recommendations not just what would make my 1911 look pretty. You guys are helpful.
Link Posted: 1/20/2006 6:39:32 PM EDT

Originally Posted By fla38special:
If I change out the barrel shall I also change the Bushing? Thanks so far for the recommendations. I know this MOD Questions has been asked a zillion times, however, I need some practical and functional recommendations not just what would make my 1911 look pretty. You guys are helpful.



You'll need a new bushing. If you EVER want your slide squeezed for a better fit, you need to have it done before fitting a barrel, as the way the barrel fits can change when the slide is pinched.

I reccomend a Kart or Nowlin barrel, depending on whether you want CM or SS. Unless you are REALY handy with tools, you should have a pro do it.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 1:29:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/22/2006 1:31:17 PM EDT by hamishdhu]

So far, 200 break-in rounds, no problems.


Your gun won't be complete without the 520 nm Interstellar Phaser Combat Laser targeting system with internal magnetic compass and secret decoder ring compartment..

On the other hand, you haven't had any problems but a good set of sights wouldn't hurt. When you can shoot better than your barrel, you need to replace your barrel. Until then, shoot it and look for flaws. If you find any, find a remedy.

Otherwise, don't try to fix what ain't broken.
Link Posted: 1/22/2006 5:24:10 PM EDT

Originally Posted By hamishdhu:

So far, 200 break-in rounds, no problems.


Your gun won't be complete without the 520 nm Interstellar Phaser Combat Laser targeting system with internal magnetic compass and secret decoder ring compartment..

On the other hand, you haven't had any problems but a good set of sights wouldn't hurt. When you can shoot better than your barrel, you need to replace your barrel. Until then, shoot it and look for flaws. If you find any, find a remedy.

Otherwise, don't try to fix what ain't broken.


I completely agree. I would put on a good set of sights and call it a day. A fancy barrel is'nt going to help your CCW. It's not a bullseye gun, it's a tool!
Link Posted: 1/23/2006 4:07:43 AM EDT
fla38special please keep us or at least me updated on all the mods you decide to make. I want to get a SA Milspec as well and make mods to it similar to what you are doing. I am a 1911 rookie so mods that I can make on my own are the types of things I am looking for. Thanks.
Link Posted: 1/23/2006 7:54:18 AM EDT
I had a stainless mil spec in the 1990s - Barrel in it was fine - very accurate gun. Sure, U can get more expensive barrels and bushings, but the gun is usually more accurate out of the box than other stock "combat guns" are out of the box.

Get some nice sights - I bought trijicon at the time. I later changes the hammer, trigger and safety because I wanted the look of the higher end guns - this was all done for cosmetic reasons, though.

I'd say, if ya wanna do the barrel upgrade, svae your money and buy a more expensive one. If shooting a 1 inch group at 25 yards isn't that important to you, keep the barrel stock. U don't want a CCW gun that tight anyway.
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 4:51:52 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Shipwreck:

I'd say, if ya wanna do the barrel upgrade, svae your money and buy a more expensive one. If shooting a 1 inch group at 25 yards isn't that important to you, keep the barrel stock. U don't want a CCW gun that tight anyway.



A good barrel doesn't have to be overly tight, sir.

As for a CCW being a bulls-eye gun, what if you need to make a precise shot? What then, sir? Shoot amongst them & hope you don't hit the hostage?????????
Link Posted: 1/24/2006 5:10:10 PM EDT
I say the SA mil-spec shoots just fine (I have one) and will hit your intended target. No need to change out the barrel. I would first improve the sights, then secondly trigger.
Link Posted: 1/26/2006 3:39:26 AM EDT
Sight recommendations for Carry application? Fixed sights with minimum slide work.
Link Posted: 1/26/2006 10:55:25 AM EDT

Originally Posted By fla38special:
Sight recommendations for Carry application? Fixed sights with minimum slide work.



For NO slide work, the YoBo retro sights. I don't know how they handle front sights, but I imagine they can tenon something in for you.

If you want the best sights and are willing to refinish, YoBo Pro sights or Heinies with the rear leg milled off.
Link Posted: 1/26/2006 1:24:21 PM EDT

Originally Posted By fla38special:
Sight recommendations for Carry application? Fixed sights with minimum slide work.



Novak-type are pretty much snag proof & slides right in if both front & rear are milled.
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 3:53:45 AM EDT

Originally Posted By BobCole:

Originally Posted By fla38special:
Sight recommendations for Carry application? Fixed sights with minimum slide work.



Novak-type are pretty much snag proof & slides right in if both front & rear are milled.


+1 on the Novak sights.
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