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Posted: 5/28/2017 10:20:32 PM EDT
I'm looking for some more info on a 27-2 I inherited. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find out manufacture date and value? Not looking to sell it, just curious. Serial number is S312XXX.

Link Posted: 5/28/2017 10:36:42 PM EDT
[#1]
Nice revolver! 
3 1/2'' is sought after
is it original finish?
Serial # puts it at 1968 - 1969,
Link Posted: 5/28/2017 11:11:03 PM EDT
[#2]
S-serial 3.5" nickel 27-2?  Easily worth a grand.  Probably late 1968 or early 1969 ship date.
Link Posted: 5/29/2017 12:07:41 AM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
Nice revolver! 
3 1/2'' is sought after
is it original finish?
Serial # puts it at 1968 - 1969,
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I'm honestly not sure, I don't have much of any info on it. Are there any tell tale signs I can look for to see if it has been refinished?
Link Posted: 5/29/2017 9:01:26 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:


I'm honestly not sure, I don't have much of any info on it. Are there any tell tale signs I can look for to see if it has been refinished?
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If that is the only picture, I can almost guarantee it's the original finish, that, or it was refinished VERY well.

The first things you look for on a refinish are the edges and the stampings. Even high end refinishing joins have a tendency to buff away too much, the edges will get blended, and the stamping will look shallow.

If Smith and Wesson did any work on the revolver (including refinishing) you can remove the stocks and look for a Star stamped on the grip steel, or at the end of the serial number. R-S, R-N, and B + a diamond are all definitive refinishing stamps.
Link Posted: 5/29/2017 9:10:29 AM EDT
[#5]
Wouldn't it have diamond grips if it was a 1968?

Very nice.  
Link Posted: 5/29/2017 9:16:04 AM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:
Wouldn't it have diamond grips if it was a 1968?

Very nice.  
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Diamonds were dropped by 1968.

Easiest way to see if the stocks are original; pull them off and look for the serial number etched in them.
Link Posted: 5/29/2017 10:21:56 AM EDT
[#7]
Oh man that is sweet
Link Posted: 5/29/2017 3:08:15 PM EDT
[#8]
Is the extractor star blue or nickel?
Link Posted: 5/29/2017 4:06:09 PM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:
Is the extractor star blue or nickel?
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Blue
Link Posted: 5/29/2017 4:08:40 PM EDT
[#10]








Link Posted: 5/29/2017 8:15:46 PM EDT
[#11]
Original nickel guns will have an N on the rear face of the cylinder and most often on the side of the frame under the grips as well as on the underside of the barrel
Link Posted: 5/29/2017 8:26:52 PM EDT
[#12]
That is very very nice
Link Posted: 5/29/2017 9:06:59 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:
Blue
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Is the extractor star blue or nickel?
Blue
To my understanding, that is indicative of a factory Nickel finish.  Or an indicator.  As someone mentioned too, the N markings.  

That right there is a super duper fine revolver.  You should enjoy owning and shooting that tremendously.  And yes, lots of dudes are Ga ga for that config.  I'm pretty sure.
Link Posted: 5/30/2017 9:49:03 AM EDT
[#14]
Nickel guns are so hard to take good pictures of. I can't tell for certain, but it appears to have some pitting behind the recoil shield on the left side, as well as finish peeling to the right of the firing pin hole.

If that is the case. I would personally disassemble the gun as far as you are comfortable, and put the entire thing in Hoppes, Kroil, your favorite gun cleaner, etc for several days. That should stop any rust in it's tracks. If you don't take careful measure that will permanently scar a really nice gun.
Link Posted: 5/30/2017 1:18:30 PM EDT
[#15]
Gorgeous.
Link Posted: 5/30/2017 3:42:31 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
To my understanding, that is indicative of a factory Nickel finish.  Or an indicator.  As someone mentioned too, the N markings.  

That right there is a super duper fine revolver.  You should enjoy owning and shooting that tremendously.  And yes, lots of dudes are Ga ga for that config.  I'm pretty sure.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Is the extractor star blue or nickel?
Blue
To my understanding, that is indicative of a factory Nickel finish.  Or an indicator.  As someone mentioned too, the N markings.  

That right there is a super duper fine revolver.  You should enjoy owning and shooting that tremendously.  And yes, lots of dudes are Ga ga for that config.  I'm pretty sure.
Correct, the blue extractor usually indicates a factory nickel gun. After market refinishers could duplicate that, but generally did not.
Link Posted: 5/30/2017 8:55:25 PM EDT
[#17]
I have an empty silver smith and Wesson box, tools and papers for a nickel 27-2, 3.5 inch barrel with a serial number of S312920.  It would be a long shot but it's close.
Link Posted: 5/30/2017 10:25:08 PM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:
Nickel guns are so hard to take good pictures of. I can't tell for certain, but it appears to have some pitting behind the recoil shield on the left side, as well as finish peeling to the right of the firing pin hole.

If that is the case. I would personally disassemble the gun as far as you are comfortable, and put the entire thing in Hoppes, Kroil, your favorite gun cleaner, etc for several days. That should stop any rust in it's tracks. If you don't take careful measure that will permanently scar a really nice gun.
View Quote
I thought Hoppes was bad for a nickel finish? OP, that is a beautiful pistol. If that little beauty were mine I'd check the timing on it, lube it up and shoot it!
Lucky!
Link Posted: 5/30/2017 10:56:08 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I have an empty silver smith and Wesson box, tools and papers for a nickel 27-2, 3.5 inch barrel with a serial number of S312920.  It would be a long shot but it's close.
View Quote
So close! This one is S31293X
Link Posted: 5/30/2017 10:57:20 PM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:

I thought Hoppes was bad for a nickel finish?
OP, that is a beautiful pistol. If that little beauty were mine I'd check the timing on it, lube it up and shoot it!
Lucky!
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Yes you're absolutely right. Sorry about that, was just on autopilot.

Thank you for correcting me, as Hoppes could possibly hurt the copper plating under the nickel.
Link Posted: 6/1/2017 10:28:40 PM EDT
[#21]
Do NOT use Hoppes under any circumstances , It will remove all of the nickel if there is any imperfection in the nickel . Hoppes will remove copper which is used as a base layer for nickel plating .  Make sure anything you use is nickel friendly
Link Posted: 6/3/2017 2:12:41 AM EDT
[#22]
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Quoted:


Yes you're absolutely right. Sorry about that, was just on autopilot.

Thank you for correcting me, as Hoppes could possibly hurt the copper plating under the nickel.
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No worries.
OP, you shoot it yet?
Link Posted: 6/5/2017 12:20:14 AM EDT
[#23]
Sweet wheelie OP!
Link Posted: 6/5/2017 3:59:47 PM EDT
[#24]
To answer your question OP... in it's current condition and providing those are the original stocks (probably are) you have an $800 pistol; obviously more with someone that really wants it. I would keep it, cherish it, and shoot the piss out of it. Do some reading on how to care for a nickel finish and clean it. I looked for that pistol for about 6 months before giving up on it. I enjoy shooting .38Special a lot so a nice Smith M36 was a solid substitute for me as I got a pair of vintage round but "J" frames; one in nickel and one blued, both mint. Altamontco and Ahrends make handsome, very comfortable grips that will make your fine new to you revolver much more comfortable to shoot and not ruin the conceal-ability. Obviously keep the original stocks and screw. Enjoy that pistol as somebody certainly loved you! Thanks for sharing the pics!
Link Posted: 6/18/2017 4:26:44 PM EDT
[#25]
CLP is OK for nickel.
Link Posted: 6/18/2017 4:27:22 PM EDT
[#26]
Forgot to mention it is a beautiful revolver.
Link Posted: 6/18/2017 6:53:58 PM EDT
[#27]
OP, if you ever DO want to sell that piece of American steel... you won't have a problem. I find that a 3 to a 3.5" barreled revolver to be the most desirable. Is the cylinder recessed too? Because that would just be the icing on the cake for me if it were mine!
Link Posted: 6/19/2017 12:38:50 AM EDT
[#28]
The 27-2 is pinned and recessed.
Link Posted: 6/19/2017 1:22:18 AM EDT
[#29]
This marking would indicate a factory nickel.

20140701_090359 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

That's a keeper.

I would buff it out by hand with an oiled cotton cloth. I would avoid using any solvents on a nickel gun.

They shoot incredibly comfortably with magnum loads due to the size and weight.

I was considering one of the newfangled 8-shots until I tried one.

Nope.
Link Posted: 8/6/2017 7:07:38 PM EDT
[#30]
What bbl length???
Link Posted: 8/6/2017 7:37:44 PM EDT
[#31]
It's a Terrible firearm and most likely unsafe!!!! Mail to my ffl asap for proper disposal!!!!! ??
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