I ran 100 rounds through a GP 100 . NIB pistol . I wet all the cylinder holes for a few hours with CLP . I then nylon brushed them / dry patch. I could still see a little build up in them. I then wet with Hoppes 9 for 10 minuets with  nylon brush treatment / dry patch. I can still see a little build up ( I believe anyhow ) . Whats yall method  and am I being to anal about the cylinder chambers?  This was 38 specials through my 357 GP100 pistol. Thanks Wardawg

Take a worn out 38/357 bronze brush.   Cut up a Chore Boy copper scrubbers (make sure it's the copper version, they make steel also) wrap a small amount of this copper mesh around the old bore brush.   Go to town on the cylinder with it and a little bit of you favorite bore cleaner or CLP.  In the case of a really fouled up cylinder I have even used a pistol drill  on this combo but I doubt you will need to do that.  Chore Boy and elbow grease usual does it just fine.

For .38/.357 I chuck a .40 bore brush into my cordless drill, spray on some Hoppe's Elite, and give each chamber a few seconds blast.

similar to mcb... there is a product called Frontier Big 45 which looks like stainless pot scrubber....a couple of passes with it through bore or cylinder

http://frontiermetalcleaner.com/

I use next to zero cleaning fluids and my cleaning takes just a few minutes. I am the anti white glove inspection clean poster child- a few dry brush passes and a few dry patch passes each chamber- drop in 6 rounds do they drop in easily and chamber no problem from my speedloader? Good enough cleaning done

To put it another way my goal is functionally clean not visibly clean. As long as it is functionally clean going further than that is a waste of my time

Thanks for the replys.  I've heard shooting 38s  through a 357  can make 357 sticky in the cylinders . That's why I asked.  Thanks again  wardawg

Get a stainless steel chamber brush. One swipe in each cylinder gets it done. I don't even use CLP in the chambers.

Just don't buy any little glass pipes with that copper Chore Boy

For my stainless guns, I usually give the cylinder a good soak in Mpro-7, wait a few, then run a bigger boresnake through.  For .357 I can use a .40 or a worn-out .44 one.  Seems to work fine.

For the face of the cylinder I scrub with a copper brush.  I do have lead-free cloths but they're not really worth it unless you're an absolute stickler for perfection.

Copper brushes are your friend with ANY revolver...the don't scratch bluing either.  Don't use a cloth on bluing though!

For revolver cylinders (NOT bores), I use a stainless "Tornado" brush and Hoppes #9.

For the front of the cylinder, I use small 1" x 2" rectangles cut from those plastic dishwashing scrubber pads.  Be careful with these.  There are "hard" ones and softer ones.  The hard ones are abrasive enough to scratch the finish of a handgun.  Look for the soft ones and then test them out before using them.  They also work well on the inside of the top strap and around the forcing cone.

While you are at it, once it is clean. Wrap the brush with some cotton cloth. Lather on some Flitz metal polish and give the chambers a shine job.  I find it makes future cleaning and extraction easier

Hmm...that's a good idea I'd not heard before.  I'm gonna try it.

You probably already know this, but if you shoot a bunch of .38 out of a .357, the .38 can leave a ring of crud in the cylinder charge holes that can make it difficult to chamber or extract .357 rounds. The .357 cases expand and lock into the crud ring when fired, making extraction difficult. The cylinder charge holes need to be pretty damn clean. I use a .40 or .410 bore brush in my .357s when shooting .38 to make sure that I get all the crud out.

Another good option to get all the crud out after shooting .38 if you are a reloader is to get some .357 cases. Use your reloading press to slightly bell the mouth of the case until it fits into the cylinder charge holes pretty tightly. Then shove the .357 cases into the charge holes. The belled case mouths will scrape the crud out of the charge holes very well. If the cases fit tightly enough, use a cleaning rod to push them back out of the charge hole. Then use a little Hoppes (or your cleaner of choice) on a .40 or .410 brush and the charge holes are clean as a whistle. If you're not a reloader, see if you have a friend that is and can bell you some .357 brass. Very easy and quick.

Bub75

Yeah, I just use a .40 brush and CLP.  I'm not sure how clean it gets, I only shoot .38 in my 3 revolvers.

use a MILD polish.  Available at any auto parts store to polish aluminum wheels.  A little on a soft cotton shirt is all it takes to easily remove that burnt carbon ring from the cylinder.  I also use it to keep my feed ramp polished up.  This is great stuff.

Everyone has good ideas, so far, but the best, by far is Kleenbore brand Lead Away cloth. Clean as usual, then wrap some around a worn .38 Cal. brush and punch the cylinders. They will sparkle with very little effort. It will easily clean the cylinder face as well.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Kleen-Bore-KB-GC221-KB-LEAD-AWAY-GUN-CLOTH/37933503?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=2400&adid=22222222227026208850&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52381616951&wl4=aud-273067695102

You can always try the Lewis Lead Remover

This is what i use to clean the lead out after shooting wad cutters.

I have one but I found the copper chore boy on an old brush got things cleaner quicker.  The only thing the Lewis lead remover does really well is cleaning the forcing cone on the barrel.  For lead in the bore and crud in the cylinder I found chore boy required less elbow grease.

The best method I have found yet is to use a .375 rifle brush for 38/357 and a standard .50 rifle brush for .44/45 chambers on a cleaning rod. You wet with CLP or favorite cleaner and twist them 360* a few times while pulling them back and forth. Also these oversize brushes can be used on occasion to get the stubborn carbon deposits out of the corners of the lands in the barrels when needed.

When I'm done with that I either use a tight fitting patch or a caliber specific jag and mop up the mess.

Works like a charm and I won't do it any other way now. I got the idea from the military chamber brushes for machineguns.

Pretty much this.  I also polished mine with a similar method to help extraction a bit.  Not enough to change any surfaces, just enough to smooth it a touch.