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Posted: 3/12/2017 9:28:08 AM EDT
Whats yalls choice and method ? Thanks WarDawg
Link Posted: 3/12/2017 9:33:28 AM EDT
[#1]
Sewing machine oil is good.  Very light and won't become sticky.
Link Posted: 3/12/2017 10:33:04 AM EDT
[#2]
Just use oil... any good oil will do. Something that seeps.
Link Posted: 3/12/2017 11:07:00 AM EDT
[#3]
Oil, I just use CLP.

Put a couple drops down each side of the hammer (if equipped). The oil will eventually make it throughout the internals over time.
Link Posted: 3/12/2017 11:43:15 AM EDT
[#4]
CLP.......
Link Posted: 3/12/2017 12:25:23 PM EDT
[#5]
I use the old adage, grease if it slides and oil if it rotates. So, things like springs get a light coat of grease and all pivot points get oiled.
Link Posted: 3/13/2017 8:35:38 PM EDT
[#6]
For most areas...Super Lube oil.  
This is a "thick oil-thin grease" consistency synthetic Teflon bearing clear-white lube that stays put and won't evaporate or run off.
Good from -45 to +450.

For heavy contact surfaces like the trigger sear area and hammer SA notch and double action strut I use Super Lube grease.
This is a thick grease that stays put and lasts for many years without service.

I've opened up customer guns as much as 10 years after servicing and the Super Lube was still there and working.
This long lasting non-evaporating or drying out lube is important for defense revolvers that often don't get serviced very often.

You can buy it direct from Synco in small tubes of grease and needle oilers, or in cans of grease and 4 ounce bottles of the oil.
Link Posted: 3/14/2017 9:45:41 AM EDT
[#7]
3n1 oil for many many years.  The last few it's been Mobil 1.

I've never pulled a sidecover just to lube one.

I put a drop or two of oil in/on everything I can see sticking out of the frame and into the holes in the frame.  On the rear sight adjustment screws, on the crane latch, on the crane, where the ejector rod moves in/out of the crane, under the ejection "star", on the grip screw, and wipe off the outside surfaces.
Link Posted: 3/14/2017 9:54:37 AM EDT
[#8]
I just use CLP on most of it.  I fill the star and the end of the ejector rod with high pressure bearing grease.
Link Posted: 3/14/2017 1:39:48 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
3n1 oil for many many years.  The last few it's been Mobil 1.

I've never pulled a sidecover just to lube one.

I put a drop or two of oil in/on everything I can see sticking out of the frame and into the holes in the frame.  On the rear sight adjustment screws, on the crane latch, on the crane, where the ejector rod moves in/out of the crane, under the ejection "star", on the grip screw, and wipe off the outside surfaces.
View Quote


The only time I've pulled a sideplate to lube one was when they were really gritty and felt like there might be some dirt down in it and it needed a good cleaning.
Link Posted: 3/14/2017 9:21:43 PM EDT
[#10]
I'm pulling the S&W (638)   locking mechanism   and installing a plug in the lock hole.  So the side plate will be pulled to do this   . Figure to lube it while I'm in there.      Thanks for the replys.  Wardawg
Link Posted: 3/15/2017 6:01:20 PM EDT
[#11]
Be sure to use the right size screw driver blade/tip so you don't booger up the screws.

And S&W side plates are extremely well fitted and can be tricky to get out.  Again, don't booger it up.

When you put the side plate back on, if it doesn't press easily into place and you decide to use the screws to push it back into place, go slow and alternate tightening from screw to screw, sort of like putting a wheel/tire back on your car.  Watch close and keep the side plate even as the screws push it back into the frame.

Good luck.
Link Posted: 3/16/2017 6:12:53 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Be sure to use the right size screw driver blade/tip so you don't booger up the screws.

And S&W side plates are extremely well fitted and can be tricky to get out.  Again, don't booger it up.

When you put the side plate back on, if it doesn't press easily into place and you decide to use the screws to push it back into place, go slow and alternate tightening from screw to screw, sort of like putting a wheel/tire back on your car.  Watch close and keep the side plate even as the screws push it back into the frame.

Good luck.
View Quote



Thanks for the advise. I have the full set of Brownells magna super set screwdrivers.  Yeah this is a lightweight frame also. Im going to baby her. WarDawg
Link Posted: 3/17/2017 5:28:19 PM EDT
[#13]
I typically use FP-10, Brownell's Action Lube, Slip 2000 EWL or a mix the Action Lube and one of the oils.  I typically pull side plates even from new revolvers and often find metal shavings and other crap that needs to be removed.  Good time to perform an "action cleanup", change any springs and lube.

I think one of the few decent revolversmiths left, Frank Glenn, recommends Slide Glide.
Link Posted: 3/18/2017 7:33:35 AM EDT
[#14]
Rotella T6
Link Posted: 3/18/2017 8:26:00 PM EDT
[#15]
I use an extremely light coat of M-Pro7 on all the moving parts... I make sure to clean out the cylinder chambers to an almost bone dry state though.
Link Posted: 3/27/2017 10:55:12 PM EDT
[#16]
I use a really light oil since a lot of stuff will gum up or get stiff in the cold up here.  I've even used triflo before.

Btw OP I know you aren't asking for your GP100 Match Champion, but as a word of advice when you take it down.  Be careful as the trigger group and hammer are shimmed, so you could lose a shim if you don't pay close attention.  Figure they are something like 0.001-0.003" thick washers.
Link Posted: 3/28/2017 6:00:33 AM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I use a really light oil since a lot of stuff will gum up or get stiff in the cold up here.  I've even used triflo before.

Btw OP I know you aren't asking for your GP100 Match Champion, but as a word of advice when you take it down.  Be careful as the trigger group and hammer are shimmed, so you could lose a shim if you don't pay close attention.  Figure they are something like 0.001-0.003" thick washers.
View Quote
Thanks for the tip and advise. WD
Link Posted: 3/28/2017 5:20:04 PM EDT
[#18]
Lucas Red N Tacky grease on all sliding surfaces, whatever CLP is handy on everything else.
Link Posted: 3/28/2017 7:14:10 PM EDT
[#19]
Brownell's Action Lube on all inside friction points.
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