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Posted: 4/1/2023 11:04:47 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Given the information that for me, this is a woods/bear Defense gun, the question now is, which optic? I’m leaning toward one of the Holosun enclosed. I like the HoloSun 507. |
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Posted: 4/1/2023 12:53:09 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Given the information that for me, this is a woods/bear Defense gun, the question now is, which optic? I'm leaning toward one of the Holosun enclosed. https://chpws.com/product/sw-m2-0-c-o-r-e-to-holosun-eps-eps-carry-preorder/ |
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Posted: 4/1/2023 2:11:57 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I like the HoloSun 507. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Given the information that for me, this is a woods/bear Defense gun, the question now is, which optic? I’m leaning toward one of the Holosun enclosed. I like the HoloSun 507. I have a 507K on my P365XL. I like it a lot. I sorta want to try an enclosed version though. |
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Posted: 4/1/2023 3:14:28 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: CHPWS just added an M&P 2.0 to EPS/EPS carry plate. I've got two EPS carry and an EPS, all the MRS version. I need pick up another regular EPS at some point when I see a good deal. https://chpws.com/product/sw-m2-0-c-o-r-e-to-holosun-eps-eps-carry-preorder/ Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Given the information that for me, this is a woods/bear Defense gun, the question now is, which optic? I'm leaning toward one of the Holosun enclosed. https://chpws.com/product/sw-m2-0-c-o-r-e-to-holosun-eps-eps-carry-preorder/ Their all in one kit looks nice. Cheap ish way to get into a start of a set of fix it sticks |
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Posted: 4/1/2023 3:55:49 PM EDT
[#5]
Range update #2 @AeroEngineer
The last range trip the optic sight screws failed and sheared after 14rds of Underwood 220gr hardcast. After reinstalling the optic with new screws and bonding the slide/plate/optic together with E6000 industrial rubber cement, the optic sight screws sheared again after 16rds. The light spot on the slide is where the rubber cement was and was separated when the optic screws sheared  Attached FileThe rubber cement between the optic and optic plate was still intact  Attached FileAero, whats interesting is that the slide and optic plate both have a circular cutout that mate with each other and lock in, then rubber cement, then the screws and it still failed in this area. The mating circular cutouts should provide some mechanical support. I am certain that on both failures the plate was properly mated with the cutouts. I am wondering if this may be a case to try a metal optic plate so it has a metal to metal lock up with the slide. Also the gunsmith said he can retap for thicker screws, which I am going to try next. I just need to know I can shoot two boxes of 220gr hardcast without the screws shearing, and then I'll likely never have to shoot this ammo again (woods carry only). |
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Posted: 4/2/2023 2:14:57 PM EDT
[#6]
FYI, the Floyd's Custom 10mm +5 extension, combined with their Wolff extra coil spring is an easy way to carry a whole 20rd box of self defense 10mm ammo.
Just loaded it for the first time with a full 20rds in the mag. It's difficult to get that to seat on a closed slide but on an open slide or 19 in the mag +1 in the gun is easy.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 4/2/2023 4:05:49 PM EDT
[#7]
looks great!
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Posted: 4/3/2023 8:04:50 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Range update #2 @AeroEngineer The last range trip the optic sight screws failed and sheared after 14rds of Underwood 220gr hardcast. After reinstalling the optic with new screws and bonding the slide/plate/optic together with E6000 industrial rubber cement, the optic sight screws sheared again after 16rds. The light spot on the slide is where the rubber cement was and was separated when the optic screws sheared https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/210556/IMG_2980_JPEG-2766684.JPG The rubber cement between the optic and optic plate was still intact https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/210556/IMG_2982_JPEG-2766685.JPG Aero, whats interesting is that the slide and optic plate both have a circular cutout that mate with each other and lock in, then rubber cement, then the screws and it still failed in this area. The mating circular cutouts should provide some mechanical support. I am certain that on both failures the plate was properly mated with the cutouts. I am wondering if this may be a case to try a metal optic plate so it has a metal to metal lock up with the slide. Also the gunsmith said he can retap for thicker screws, which I am going to try next. I just need to know I can shoot two boxes of 220gr hardcast without the screws shearing, and then I'll likely never have to shoot this ammo again (woods carry only). Dang! I’m gonna go straight to the CHPWS posted above. Remind me what springs you have in this pistol? That Underwood is EXACTLY the ammo I’m looking at carrying. |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 11:47:30 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Dang! I’m gonna go straight to the CHPWS posted above. Remind me what springs you have in this pistol? That Underwood is EXACTLY the ammo I’m looking at carrying. @lilMAC25, I have 22lb wolf and guide rod. I am not sure if a CHPWS plate will fix the issue? What is the point of a metal vs plastic optic plate? |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 1:10:57 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Range update #2 @AeroEngineer The last range trip the optic sight screws failed and sheared after 14rds of Underwood 220gr hardcast. After reinstalling the optic with new screws and bonding the slide/plate/optic together with E6000 industrial rubber cement, the optic sight screws sheared again after 16rds. The light spot on the slide is where the rubber cement was and was separated when the optic screws sheared https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/210556/IMG_2980_JPEG-2766684.JPG The rubber cement between the optic and optic plate was still intact https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/210556/IMG_2982_JPEG-2766685.JPG Aero, whats interesting is that the slide and optic plate both have a circular cutout that mate with each other and lock in, then rubber cement, then the screws and it still failed in this area. The mating circular cutouts should provide some mechanical support. I am certain that on both failures the plate was properly mated with the cutouts. I am wondering if this may be a case to try a metal optic plate so it has a metal to metal lock up with the slide. Also the gunsmith said he can retap for thicker screws, which I am going to try next. I just need to know I can shoot two boxes of 220gr hardcast without the screws shearing, and then I'll likely never have to shoot this ammo again (woods carry only). What torque value did you use on the screws? What thread locker did you use on the fasteners? Did you notice any change in the witness marks before the failure? |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 4:13:47 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What torque value did you use on the screws? What thread locker did you use on the fasteners? Did you notice any change in the witness marks before the failure? after my in/lb torque wrench was questioned, i very very gently hand tightened them with blue loctite. barely snug. no witness marks, i forgot. |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 4:46:02 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @lilMAC25, I have 22lb wolf and guide rod. I am not sure if a CHPWS plate will fix the issue? What is the point of a metal vs plastic optic plate? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Dang! I’m gonna go straight to the CHPWS posted above. Remind me what springs you have in this pistol? That Underwood is EXACTLY the ammo I’m looking at carrying. @lilMAC25, I have 22lb wolf and guide rod. I am not sure if a CHPWS plate will fix the issue? What is the point of a metal vs plastic optic plate? Maybe I’m way off, but I’d think plastic would have a vastly different moment of inertia than the slide. ETA: CHPWS also has their own brand/make of screws they use. At this point, I’d be trying different things to fix it. I’ll be picking up my SW 10mm tomorrow. |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 5:21:36 PM EDT
[#13]
Hopefully long since addressed, but have any of you found significant spring compression/mag failures? My factory mags (still only have two) were not even left loaded and they both caused failures to feed with warm (max published loads of Blue Dot and 180gr XTPs) loads.
I thought it might be the soft recoil spring, so I put a 24lb in there with a new guide rod. Still had failures to come to battery/feed, so I figured it was magazine related. I bought replacement magazine springs, and when they arrived I disassembled the magazine that gave me the most trouble and the spring clearly looks compressed compared to the other magazine which has less rounds through it...which I used more and then it too started to compress in length. Since the replacement mag springs have been installed in both mags I have not had any failures to feed/go fully into battery. If you have multiple mags, compare the springs to see if you are experiencing any spring compression. |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 5:38:53 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hopefully long since addressed, but have any of you found significant spring compression/mag failures? My factory mags (still only have two) were not even left loaded and they both caused failures to feed with warm (max published loads of Blue Dot and 180gr XTPs) loads. I thought it might be the soft recoil spring, so I put a 24lb in there with a new guide rod. Still had failures to come to battery/feed, so I figured it was magazine related. I bought replacement magazine springs, and when they arrived I disassembled the magazine that gave me the most trouble and the spring clearly looks compressed compared to the other magazine which has less rounds through it...which I used more and then it too started to compress in length. Since the replacement mag springs have been installed in both mags I have not had any failures to feed/go fully into battery. If you have multiple mags, compare the springs to see if you are experiencing any spring compression. did you have issues with factory ball ammo? wondering if your loads are too fast for the weak mag springs regardless of recoil spring. im not an expert i never shot my pistol w the factory mag springs, replaced with wolf: here is my comparison two pages ago wolf left, unfired factory right  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 6:20:39 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: did you have issues with factory ball ammo? wondering if your loads are too fast for the weak mag springs regardless of recoil spring. im not an expert i never shot my pistol w the factory mag springs, replaced with wolf: here is my comparison two pages ago wolf left, unfired factory right https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/210556/57029CBB-AF25-49D4-B702-105DBBE840FD_jpe-2683141.JPG I did shoot the pistol with mild loads that I had on hand, and the trouble began when I started to use warmer rounds. I initially thought it was the main recoil spring that was the culprit, then I started to suspect the magazine. As you point out the mag has to supply the round with more force if the slide is going to cycle with more speed. What I thought odd was the spring of the primary magazine (again, I have only two on hand) that I was using was visibly compressed - in comparison to the other factory (much less used) magazine. That is why I bother to mention this as an oddity- but maybe worth an examination. |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 6:26:29 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: after my in/lb torque wrench was questioned, i very very gently hand tightened them with blue loctite. barely snug. no witness marks, i forgot. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: What torque value did you use on the screws? What thread locker did you use on the fasteners? Did you notice any change in the witness marks before the failure? after my in/lb torque wrench was questioned, i very very gently hand tightened them with blue loctite. barely snug. no witness marks, i forgot. My theory - the fasteners weren’t torqued sufficiently, they lost preload and then took the full shear load snd failed. IMO you need to properly torque the fasteners and add witness marks. |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 6:30:36 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I did shoot the pistol with mild loads that I had on hand, and the trouble began when I started to use warmer rounds. I initially thought it was the main recoil spring that was the culprit, then I started to suspect the magazine. As you point out the mag has to supply the round with more force if the slide is going to cycle with more speed. What I thought odd was the spring of the primary magazine (again, I have only two on hand) that I was using was visibly compressed - in comparison to the other factory (much less used) magazine. That is why I bother to mention this as an oddity- but maybe worth an examination. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: did you have issues with factory ball ammo? wondering if your loads are too fast for the weak mag springs regardless of recoil spring. im not an expert i never shot my pistol w the factory mag springs, replaced with wolf: here is my comparison two pages ago wolf left, unfired factory right https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/210556/57029CBB-AF25-49D4-B702-105DBBE840FD_jpe-2683141.JPG I did shoot the pistol with mild loads that I had on hand, and the trouble began when I started to use warmer rounds. I initially thought it was the main recoil spring that was the culprit, then I started to suspect the magazine. As you point out the mag has to supply the round with more force if the slide is going to cycle with more speed. What I thought odd was the spring of the primary magazine (again, I have only two on hand) that I was using was visibly compressed - in comparison to the other factory (much less used) magazine. That is why I bother to mention this as an oddity- but maybe worth an examination. I keep a 10 pack of Wolff +10% springs on hand for the 9/40 mags for just this reason. I suspect S&W sources their mag springs in lots and some lots suck. I’ve had multiple problem-child M&P mags over the years become suddenly 100% reliable just by swapping the spring. And the factory springs out of these mags always look short compared to the Wolff springs. |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 7:46:56 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I keep a 10 pack of Wolff +10% springs on hand for the 9/40 mags for just this reason. I suspect S&W sources their nag firings in kits, snd sone lots suck. I’ve had multiple problem-child M&P mags over the years become suddenly 100% reliable just by swapping the spring. And the factory springs out of these mags always look short compared to the Wolff springs. Interdasting- thanks! I have two magazines = statistically meaningless. So far replacing the mag spring (and mainspring) has solved the functioning issue. I am very satisfied with how well the gun shoots accuracy wise. I am so happy that more 10mm options are on the market, and while the G20 kept the 10mm alive it was in many ways best described as "life support". Now what I do not need- and yet someone will make- and I will buy- is a 6" barrel for the M&P 10mm. Oh lawdy. |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 8:03:48 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My theory - the fasteners weren’t torqued sufficiently, they lost preload and then took the full shear load snd failed. IMO you need to properly torque the fasteners and add witness marks. respectfully, im skeptical on torque being the issue. they broke on 15 in/lbs w torque wrench after 14rds. survived 16rds this time with E6000 and careful hand tightening slide is back with the gunsmith now, to remove sheared screws, and retap w 3x larger dia. screws. will report back next weeks range report. this should put the issue to bed |
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Posted: 4/3/2023 10:56:23 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I keep a 10 pack of Wolff +10% springs on hand for the 9/40 mags for just this reason. I suspect S&W sources their mag springs in lots and some lots suck. I’ve had multiple problem-child M&P mags over the years become suddenly 100% reliable just by swapping the spring. And the factory springs out of these mags always look short compared to the Wolff springs. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: did you have issues with factory ball ammo? wondering if your loads are too fast for the weak mag springs regardless of recoil spring. im not an expert i never shot my pistol w the factory mag springs, replaced with wolf: here is my comparison two pages ago wolf left, unfired factory right https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/210556/57029CBB-AF25-49D4-B702-105DBBE840FD_jpe-2683141.JPG I did shoot the pistol with mild loads that I had on hand, and the trouble began when I started to use warmer rounds. I initially thought it was the main recoil spring that was the culprit, then I started to suspect the magazine. As you point out the mag has to supply the round with more force if the slide is going to cycle with more speed. What I thought odd was the spring of the primary magazine (again, I have only two on hand) that I was using was visibly compressed - in comparison to the other factory (much less used) magazine. That is why I bother to mention this as an oddity- but maybe worth an examination. I keep a 10 pack of Wolff +10% springs on hand for the 9/40 mags for just this reason. I suspect S&W sources their mag springs in lots and some lots suck. I’ve had multiple problem-child M&P mags over the years become suddenly 100% reliable just by swapping the spring. And the factory springs out of these mags always look short compared to the Wolff springs. The M&P 45 mags had at least one batch of bad springs at one point. I have one that was never used, only loaded once, and the follower sits about 1/4 of the way down the mag due to spring compression. S&W told me they didn’t have any springs to send me when I called them, I haven’t bothered to replace it with Wolff yet. |
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Posted: 4/4/2023 7:10:51 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: respectfully, im skeptical on torque being the issue. they broke on 15 in/lbs w torque wrench after 14rds. survived 16rds this time with E6000 and careful hand tightening slide is back with the gunsmith now, to remove sheared screws, and retap w 3x larger dia. screws. will report back next weeks range report. this should put the issue to bed Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: My theory - the fasteners weren’t torqued sufficiently, they lost preload and then took the full shear load snd failed. IMO you need to properly torque the fasteners and add witness marks. respectfully, im skeptical on torque being the issue. they broke on 15 in/lbs w torque wrench after 14rds. survived 16rds this time with E6000 and careful hand tightening slide is back with the gunsmith now, to remove sheared screws, and retap w 3x larger dia. screws. will report back next weeks range report. this should put the issue to bed Holosun fasteners for the 407/507 are #6, so 9/64 (0.13”) outer thread diameter. So your gunsmith is installing a fastener 3X this diameter? That doesn’t make sense. So whatever the gunsmith is doing, have you checked to make sure the new fastener size will fit through the holes on the optic? |
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Posted: 4/4/2023 1:00:47 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Holosun fasteners for the 407/507 are #6, so 9/64 (0.13”) outer thread diameter. So your gunsmith is installing a fastener 3X this diameter? That doesn’t make sense. So whatever the gunsmith is doing, have you checked to make sure the new fastener size will fit through the holes on the optic? he is cutting threads for larger/wider fasteners, i forget the size. a dry fit with the holosun showed it was a tad too big so i asked him to drill it out larger to fit bigger fasteners |
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Posted: 4/5/2023 10:35:04 AM EDT
[#23]
Is there an optic footprint that doesn’t need a plate to mount to a 10mm?
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Posted: 4/5/2023 10:48:10 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is there an optic footprint that doesn’t need a plate to mount to a 10mm? i think you have to have your slide milled to the exact specs of the optic. m&p is oversized so you have a wide range of optic choices. optic plates are used to fill in the optic cutout, and uses the two recoil lugs for support |
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Posted: 4/5/2023 10:59:25 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: i think you have to have your slide milled to the exact specs of the optic. m&p is oversized so you have a wide range of optic choices. optic plates are used to fill in the optic cutout, and uses the two recoil lugs for support Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Is there an optic footprint that doesn’t need a plate to mount to a 10mm? i think you have to have your slide milled to the exact specs of the optic. m&p is oversized so you have a wide range of optic choices. optic plates are used to fill in the optic cutout, and uses the two recoil lugs for support Gracias, I’ll just use a plate. |
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Posted: 4/5/2023 1:19:16 PM EDT
[#26]
So I made it to the range yesterday and had some trouble. My magazine would drop out 2 to 3 times per mag. I took the magazine release out and was looking at the engagement of it. It doesn’t look like there’s much that can be done. I did, however flip the magazine release around to the other side and it does appear to be working better. I guess it’s something with the geometry of the magazine and it works better that way. Anybody who has had issues with their magazine dropping try flipping your magazine release and see if it makes a difference.
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Posted: 4/5/2023 2:32:13 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So I made it to the range yesterday and had some trouble. My magazine would drop out 2 to 3 times per mag. I took the magazine release out and was looking at the engagement of it. It doesn’t look like there’s much that can be done. I did, however flip the magazine release around to the other side and it does appear to be working better. I guess it’s something with the geometry of the magazine and it works better that way. Anybody who has had issues with their magazine dropping try flipping your magazine release and see if it makes a difference. I've seen slow-motion videos of people having that happen. It's because of their grip and the recoil of the 10mm, pushing their thumb against the mag release. |
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Posted: 4/5/2023 4:55:39 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: i think you have to have your slide milled to the exact specs of the optic. m&p is oversized so you have a wide range of optic choices. optic plates are used to fill in the optic cutout, and uses the two recoil lugs for support Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Is there an optic footprint that doesn’t need a plate to mount to a 10mm? i think you have to have your slide milled to the exact specs of the optic. m&p is oversized so you have a wide range of optic choices. optic plates are used to fill in the optic cutout, and uses the two recoil lugs for support There is supposed to be a version of the Holosun SCS for the M&P footprint, not sure if the 10mm is the same cut as the 9mm/.40. |
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Posted: 4/5/2023 6:55:07 PM EDT
[#29]
Just picked up my 4.6” model… holy crap, this trigger must have been molded in a bed of loose sand. Gritty as heck.
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Posted: 4/5/2023 7:07:09 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just picked up my 4.6” model… holy crap, this trigger must have been molded in a bed of loose sand. Gritty as heck. It smooths out with use. |
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Posted: 4/5/2023 7:21:19 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just picked up my 4.6” model… holy crap, this trigger must have been molded in a bed of loose sand. Gritty as heck. Pull the striker block plunger and deburr the channel and polish the plunger. |
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Posted: 4/5/2023 10:29:28 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted: It smooths out with use. Honestly, it’s already lost a bit of it (or I’ve gotten used to it) during the little bit of dry fire I’ve been doing. Quoted: Pull the striker block plunger and deburr the channel and polish the plunger. I might do that. I’ve also considered buying a poly Alex trigger kit that includes a new strike block plunger for it. |
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Posted: 4/5/2023 11:50:48 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Honestly, it’s already lost a bit of it (or I’ve gotten used to it) during the little bit of dry fire I’ve been doing. I might do that. I’ve also considered buying a poly Alex trigger kit that includes a new strike block plunger for it. my 10mm trigger was similar but after a little bit of dryfire it quickly improved and now theres no way id change it out my old 1.0 shield did get an apex trigger, was pretty crappy |
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Posted: 4/6/2023 6:25:54 PM EDT
[#34]
After I got home from the range I sent S&W an email about the issue and they responded back saying...
We can either send you out the parts to replace the mag catch yourself or have the gun returned for service and have it repaired here. I hope they already knew there was an issue and have an updated part. Not they just think I had a defective mag release and are sending another one that is the same. We'll see. |
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Posted: 4/7/2023 4:33:50 PM EDT
[#35]
Ok, just got back from first range trip, ZERO issues, other than….
On one of my mags, it ejected the final (unfired) round in the magazine somehow when I fired my penultimate round. Not only did it do that to me, it did the same to my buddy. Blazer Brass 180 gr RN (all that Academy had on hand). I don’t know if it was the same magazine each time or not. It is snappy, and QUITE a bit more boisterous than my 9mm P365XL. I assume these aren’t full house loads. Put about 85 rounds through it today without a single misfire other than the issue above. Oh, and I very much have to compensate high and left to be on target.  Attached FileI’ll snag some more ammo, throw in the heavier spring that I ordered from Wolff earlier this week, and toss the 509T on top and then go shoot it some more next week. |
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Posted: 4/7/2023 11:29:37 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Holosun fasteners for the 407/507 are #6, so 9/64 (0.13”) outer thread diameter. So your gunsmith is installing a fastener 3X this diameter? That doesn’t make sense. So whatever the gunsmith is doing, have you checked to make sure the new fastener size will fit through the holes on the optic? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: My theory - the fasteners weren’t torqued sufficiently, they lost preload and then took the full shear load snd failed. IMO you need to properly torque the fasteners and add witness marks. respectfully, im skeptical on torque being the issue. they broke on 15 in/lbs w torque wrench after 14rds. survived 16rds this time with E6000 and careful hand tightening slide is back with the gunsmith now, to remove sheared screws, and retap w 3x larger dia. screws. will report back next weeks range report. this should put the issue to bed Holosun fasteners for the 407/507 are #6, so 9/64 (0.13”) outer thread diameter. So your gunsmith is installing a fastener 3X this diameter? That doesn’t make sense. So whatever the gunsmith is doing, have you checked to make sure the new fastener size will fit through the holes on the optic? [youtube]shorts/2Fuz8PWkwMg?feature=share[/youtube] Looks like Holosun too? I have several M&P’s, including the 10mm, that all have RMR’s mounted and haven’t had any issues. Wonder if it’s the steel Holuson is using. |
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Posted: 4/7/2023 11:32:30 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:  https://www.youtube.com/shorts/2Fuz8PWkwMg?feature=shareLooks like Holosun too? I have several M&P’s, including the 10mm, that all have RMR’s mounted and haven’t had any issues. Wonder if it’s the steel Holuson is using. Are there replacement optic fasteners available? Preferably something good made in the USA? |
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Posted: 4/8/2023 5:04:24 PM EDT
[#38]
I finally got to shoot some full power ammo today (Underwood), after previously just going through a box or two of S&B 180 grain. I went through a magazine of 115 gr Xtreme defense (no issues), two magazines of 200 gr hollow points (no issues), and one magazine of 200 gr hard cast, but I had three malfunctions with the hard cast: 1 failure to feed, and twice the slide locked back after firing even though I still had rounds in the magazine. I'm running a 22# spring, so I'm guessing I need a 24# spring to prevent the slide locking to the rear with the hard cast?
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Posted: 4/8/2023 5:04:47 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are there replacement optic fasteners available? Preferably something good made in the USA? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/2Fuz8PWkwMg?feature=shareLooks like Holosun too? I have several M&P’s, including the 10mm, that all have RMR’s mounted and haven’t had any issues. Wonder if it’s the steel Holuson is using. Are there replacement optic fasteners available? Preferably something good made in the USA? CHPWS.com has replacement screws. Not sure where they’re made. |
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Posted: 4/9/2023 8:55:01 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: my 10mm trigger was similar but after a little bit of dryfire it quickly improved and now theres no way id change it out my old 1.0 shield did get an apex trigger, was pretty crappy Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Honestly, it’s already lost a bit of it (or I’ve gotten used to it) during the little bit of dry fire I’ve been doing. I might do that. I’ve also considered buying a poly Alex trigger kit that includes a new strike block plunger for it. my 10mm trigger was similar but after a little bit of dryfire it quickly improved and now theres no way id change it out my old 1.0 shield did get an apex trigger, was pretty crappy I took the striker block out yesterday and polished it with a handheld bit of Never-Dull. It didn’t change anything. I hit the trigger arm (where it contacts the striker block) with a felt dremel head and some toothpaste and it made a tiny bit of difference. All I did was polish it a wee bit. I guess a lot of dry fire is needed. The good news is, once you’re through the gritty take up, the break is pretty crisp and probably in the 4-5 lb range. |
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Posted: 4/9/2023 10:18:28 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I took the striker block out yesterday and polished it with a handheld bit of Never-Dull. It didn’t change anything. I hit the trigger arm (where it contacts the striker block) with a felt dremel head and some toothpaste and it made a tiny bit of difference. All I did was polish it a wee bit. I guess a lot of dry fire is needed. The good news is, once you’re through the gritty take up, the break is pretty crisp and probably in the 4-5 lb range. I deburr with a piece of wet/dry or emery cloth rolled around a small punch. I polish the striker block plunger by carefully chucking it into a drill and polishing it with fine wet/dry and then metal polish compound on a rag. Trigger is as good as any striker pistol I own. |
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Posted: 4/9/2023 3:32:51 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I deburr with a piece of wet/dry or emery cloth rolled around a small punch. I polish the striker block plunger by carefully chucking it into a drill and polishing it with fine wet/dry and then metal polish compound on a rag. Trigger is as good as any striker pistol I own. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I took the striker block out yesterday and polished it with a handheld bit of Never-Dull. It didn’t change anything. I hit the trigger arm (where it contacts the striker block) with a felt dremel head and some toothpaste and it made a tiny bit of difference. All I did was polish it a wee bit. I guess a lot of dry fire is needed. The good news is, once you’re through the gritty take up, the break is pretty crisp and probably in the 4-5 lb range. I deburr with a piece of wet/dry or emery cloth rolled around a small punch. I polish the striker block plunger by carefully chucking it into a drill and polishing it with fine wet/dry and then metal polish compound on a rag. Trigger is as good as any striker pistol I own. Ok, I like the idea of chucking into a drill. I’ll do that this week. |
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Posted: 4/9/2023 8:55:49 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Maybe I’m way off, but I’d think plastic would have a vastly different moment of inertia than the slide. ETA: CHPWS also has their own brand/make of screws they use. At this point, I’d be trying different things to fix it. I’ll be picking up my SW 10mm tomorrow. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Dang! I’m gonna go straight to the CHPWS posted above. Remind me what springs you have in this pistol? That Underwood is EXACTLY the ammo I’m looking at carrying. @lilMAC25, I have 22lb wolf and guide rod. I am not sure if a CHPWS plate will fix the issue? What is the point of a metal vs plastic optic plate? Maybe I’m way off, but I’d think plastic would have a vastly different moment of inertia than the slide. ETA: CHPWS also has their own brand/make of screws they use. At this point, I’d be trying different things to fix it. I’ll be picking up my SW 10mm tomorrow. @ripcurlksm Just found this today. You aren’t the only one! |
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Posted: 4/10/2023 8:05:54 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I deburr with a piece of wet/dry or emery cloth rolled around a small punch. I polish the striker block plunger by carefully chucking it into a drill and polishing it with fine wet/dry and then metal polish compound on a rag. Trigger is as good as any striker pistol I own. That's how I've done my previous M&Ps, in a desktop lathe though. I really wish S&W would take that one extra step, they've had plenty of time to make it happen... |
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Posted: 4/10/2023 9:05:41 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I deburr with a piece of wet/dry or emery cloth rolled around a small punch. I polish the striker block plunger by carefully chucking it into a drill and polishing it with fine wet/dry and then metal polish compound on a rag. Trigger is as good as any striker pistol I own. It's easy to do a nice trigger job on an M&P. this is from the old series 1.0, but it's mostly the same... http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf |
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Posted: 4/10/2023 6:08:51 PM EDT
[#46]
Update:
Just got my slide back from gunsmith, its now tapped for more robust #8 40tpi screws. The Holosun holes had to be slightly enlarged to accept the larger screws, he said that area is a solid block of aluminum and no risk to moisture entering the optic. The optic is currently installed using the S&W plastic plate. I have a CHPWS plate arriving today and will swap it out. My thought here is while the bigger screws should do the job alone, the CHPWS optic plate should hopefully do a better job (1) locking into the recoil lugs and (2) offer a more precise fit between the slide cutout/optic plate/optic leaving no wiggle room -- all in turn putting less stress on the screws. Something that the plastic plate was clearly not doing. Gunsmith said the new screws can be torqued to 25 in/lb, but said 20 in/lb would be fine. I'll be sure to index them this time @AeroEngineer After two falls onto concrete, the holosun is functioning and looking great. The first drop the dot moved far left. The second drop the dot moved about half way right. There was plenty of windage to move it back to center. I'll report back after the range this week, I'll be shooting a box and a half of 220gr Underwood +P to make sure it holds up for woods carry, then will hopefully never have to deal with sheared screws again as ill be using 180 ball at the range. |
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Posted: 4/10/2023 8:34:58 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Update: Just got my slide back from gunsmith, its now tapped for more robust #8 40tpi screws. The Holosun holes had to be slightly enlarged to accept the larger screws, he said that area is a solid block of aluminum and no risk to moisture entering the optic. The optic is currently installed using the S&W plastic plate. I have a CHPWS plate arriving today and will swap it out. My thought here is while the bigger screws should do the job alone, the CHPWS optic plate should hopefully do a better job (1) locking into the recoil lugs and (2) offer a more precise fit between the slide cutout/optic plate/optic leaving no wiggle room -- all in turn putting less stress on the screws. Something that the plastic plate was clearly not doing. Gunsmith said the new screws can be torqued to 25 in/lb, but said 20 in/lb would be fine. I'll be sure to index them this time @AeroEngineer After two falls onto concrete, the holosun is functioning and looking great. The first drop the dot moved far left. The second drop the dot moved about half way right. There was plenty of windage to move it back tocenter. I'll report back after the range this week, I'll be shooting a box and a half of 220gr Underwood +P to make sure it holds up for woods carry, then will hopefully never have to deal with sheared screws again as ill be using 180 ball at the range. I went ahead and ordered the CHPW plate, and I’m glad I did. S&W didn’t send a Type1 (RMR) plate with my firearm. 
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Posted: 4/10/2023 8:39:20 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's easy to do a nice trigger job on an M&P. this is from the old series 1.0, but it's mostly the same... http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I deburr with a piece of wet/dry or emery cloth rolled around a small punch. I polish the striker block plunger by carefully chucking it into a drill and polishing it with fine wet/dry and then metal polish compound on a rag. Trigger is as good as any striker pistol I own. It's easy to do a nice trigger job on an M&P. this is from the old series 1.0, but it's mostly the same... http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf I chucked up the striker block into a drill, took a felt wheel dremel attachment and put some green polishing compound on it, and polished it up by having them run at the same time. It is much better, but still has a bit of a staple gun feeling. |
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Posted: 4/11/2023 2:14:43 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Update: Just got my slide back from gunsmith, its now tapped for more robust #8 40tpi screws. The Holosun holes had to be slightly enlarged to accept the larger screws, he said that area is a solid block of aluminum and no risk to moisture entering the optic. The optic is currently installed using the S&W plastic plate. I have a CHPWS plate arriving today and will swap it out. My thought here is while the bigger screws should do the job alone, the CHPWS optic plate should hopefully do a better job (1) locking into the recoil lugs and (2) offer a more precise fit between the slide cutout/optic plate/optic leaving no wiggle room -- all in turn putting less stress on the screws. Something that the plastic plate was clearly not doing. Gunsmith said the new screws can be torqued to 25 in/lb, but said 20 in/lb would be fine. I'll be sure to index them this time @AeroEngineer After two falls onto concrete, the holosun is functioning and looking great. The first drop the dot moved far left. The second drop the dot moved about half way right. There was plenty of windage to move it back to center. I'll report back after the range this week, I'll be shooting a box and a half of 220gr Underwood +P to make sure it holds up for woods carry, then will hopefully never have to deal with sheared screws again as ill be using 180 ball at the range. Update 2, installed CHPWS plate Discovered the old plastic S&W optic plate had the lugs sheared off which means the only thing holding the sight in place during recoil was the stock #6 screws  Attached FileHere is the slide rethreaded for #8 40tpi  Attached FileHolosun had screwholes enlarged for the #8 screw, solid aluminum  Attached FileHere is the CHPWS plate installed, I think there are three good reasons for everyone to switch to a metal optic plate from the S&W plastic regardless of how hot you shoot: 1) metal to metal fitment via the recoil lugs between optic plate and slide 2) metal to metal fitment via the recoil lugs between the optic plate and optic (plastic sheared above) 3) metal optic plate has a bumper in the front which butts up perfectly to support the front of the optic (below) when the shot is fired. the stock S&W plate has no forward support  Attached FileAlso ensure this pin is tapped in and flush, mine walked up and was preventing the optic plate from sitting flush  Attached FileHope this info helps someone in the future. The S&W plastic optic plate design is terribly flawed. Off to the range this week, I think I have this problem fixed. |
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Posted: 4/14/2023 3:13:43 PM EDT
[#50]
 Attached File4.6” 10mm S&W M&P2.0 with Holosun 509T on a CHPWS.com plate. I’ll shoot it this weekend and try it out with the dot. I honestly would have preferred a lower riding dot system, but I’m not going to spend the $$ to get the slide cut. |
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