Specifically a P220if it matters? They come with the Sig short trigger which is too short for me. I've replaced the trigger in my 10mm 220 with the GGI PSAIT, which is definitely an improvement, but I was wondering if anyone's tried their flat trigger in a DA/SA gun...how's it feel, how does it manipulate as compared to a "normal" trigger? Is the bottom of the trigger too far out/is it difficult to get on it when drawing?

The Browning BDA/SIG P220 was one of the first pistols I ever shot as a young boy. I've never had any issues shooting it, but the P226 has been a love/hate relationship for me in the past 30 years.

I now have a 226SE, and I have already been through this with the 226 format; the short trigger is too short and "pinchy" and the standard triger seemed too far of a reach in DA. if that's how you feel about the P220, then continue on...

The reach of the Gray Guns PSTR8, in DA mode, seems to be somewhere in between the standard and short triggers. I find that you don't tend to contact the trigger down low, as you say, but instead, higher up. In SA mode, particularly in combination with an SRT setup, it feels as close to a 1911 type trigger pull than you can hope to achieve with a DA/SA SIG.

Pre-travel and over-travel are adjustable, and this is also a noticeable difference if you are used to shooting legacy DA/SA SIG pistols.

For me, my 226SE with the PSTR8 is my high mileage SIG. It just makes the shooting experience more enjoyable. I find that it doesn't take away from my abilities with my older legacy setups without adjustable triggers and SRTs...but it is a nice addition if & when you feel the need to criticize the trigger pull.

Thanks, that's what I was looking for. Yeah the short trigger is too short...it works, but it doesn't feel "right". I have an Apex flat trigger in my P320 which I like but I wasn't sure how well it'd translate to a DA/SA setup. Thanks!

So I got it in, along with the GGI P-Series spring tuning kit, and the SIG SRT (short reset) kit...

Some background - switching to an #18 mainspring induced the occasional light strike with the factory setup; 2 out of every 100 rounds or so, of my reloads with Winchester primers. I ordered the GGI spring kit as a potential way to lower sear, firing pin, and mainsprings in conjunction in a way to maintain reliability with a lighter mainspring.

The GGI kit with the 19# mainspring has little difference than the stock spring setup. Really, the difference on my gauge for the DA pull was negligible. I'm leery of the 17# spring supplied with the kit (heard too many stories of light strikes) so I'm going with my Wolff 18# in an effort to split the difference.


Anyway - I like the trigger! However, overtravel is only adjustable from DA...in SA, there's still a lot of slack. Not a big deal, just something worth noting.

Also - switching from the standard Sig sear setup to the SRT...holy cow does SRT introduce a LOT of creep in SA! You can actually feel the sear moving across the hammer as you pull it. It's like a particularly creepy 1911 trigger, honestly. You pull, pull some more, pull some more even, and then the hammer drops. I actually wound up removing the SRT kit from my 220 and going back to the original sear and safety lever. The SA pull is much crisper, much less creep, and it's around #3.8 or so measuring from the bottom of the trigger with my pull gauge. The tiny fraction of an inch it gives in a shorter reset is literally not worth the squeeze to me. Maybe it's this particular gun; I've got another 220C coming in next week, and I'll see how it does in that. But, if it's really that creepy everywhere...ugh. Why didn't I notice this with my M11A1? Admittedly I've never shot that with a standard sear, only the SRT...maybe I couldn't tell the difference then.

The SA pull really is nice, and the DA pull isn't as annoying as I'd feared it be...it actually leverages really well.

I'm still sort of torn between this, the SAIT, and the Sig long trigger...but at least it's better than the Sig short trigger.

Thanks for sharing your follow-up report. I have to say that your comments regarding creep do not seem normal to me, and honestly, I suspect either something is amiss with the SRT installation, or the GGI spring kit has introduced this into the equation. I have noticed with some other guns that lightening the pull made me much more aware of trigger creep and stop points along the way than did the regular stock springs. I have never retrofitted an SRT to a pistol with a standard trigger setup, so I can't speak authoritatively on that matter, but it's another area of possibility.

I would suggest first breaking it down and going back to stock springs. Reassemble it and get a feel of the trigger take-up, pull, and reset. If it still feels creepy then try removing and reinstalling the SRT kit.Try again with the stock springs, and again with the GGI springs. 

For the sake of a data point, my pistol came with  a factory installed SRT and all I did was swap out the trigger to the PSTR8, make the pre-travel and over-travel adjustments, then run with it. If I were to be picky, I could criticize it against my Les Baer, old S&W Revolvers, and P7s, but they're all different beasts and making it nice and shootable seems a more reasonable goal as opposed to a facsimile of something else.

Hope you get it sorted out!

I did try swapping everything back and using the original springs, and the creep is very evident in the SRT kit. A quick google tells me that I'm not the only person who's noticed a bit of creep being introduced with the SRT being installed.

Since there's really only one way for any of the parts to be installed, it's not like they can be incorrectly put in. If they go in incorrectly, things don't work. It might simply be some tolerance stacking in this particular P220, I still need to try it out in my compact to see if it does the same there. But, it's really not that big of an issue for me; the SRT isn't that important to me.

One thing I did notice when shooting the flat trigger side-by-side with a Sig with a curved trigger in it...I wound up preferring the curved trigger. Sadly I think I'm going to put it in the EE to see if I can swap it even for a P-SAIT.

Noticed the creep as well after installing the SRT kit in a couple of my (now gone) Sigs. Really I think it's just the fact you're getting a new sear so the tolerances between the new sear and your existing hammer hooks are probably a lot different (i.e. more engagement). The SRT I recently threw in my P228 isn't too bad, but I've had one where it was pretty bad as you described.

At any rate, I got one of the fancy red straight triggers that they just released. Love the feel on the straight trigger. I'll have to actually take the old P228 out to the range again for the first time in years