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Posted: 9/10/2017 11:00:00 AM EDT
I have always carried a glock 19 or other plastic pistols but a few months ago I switched to a sig m11a1 and love it. I have always used some type of oil based lubricant on all of my handguns unless the manual says otherwise. The sig manual says I can use oil or grease and even came with oil based lubricant samples but would I be better served using a grease based lubricant on a pistol with a metal frame?
I have about 1500 rounds through it so far with oil lubricant and don't see any defects in the rails or frame but I don't want to assume that means everything is OK. Am I good to go with oil or should I use grease in the m11a1? |
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I think your good either way. I use a grease on mine. Sigs like to run wet but no need to over do it.
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I use grease on mine. Doesn't sling off like oil does. However, if it's cold or the fitting of parts is tight like a match gun, grease can slow things down and give you cycling problems. Just don't let it run dry.
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I used just oil for decades. Now I put grease on the rails and outside of barrel, oil anywhere else. If it slides, grease. Otherwise oil. But you don't have to overthink it. Oil only isn't gonna kill your pistol.
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I've never used grease on any of mine. I just use clp or Remington oil.
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I use basic CLP, just crossed the 3K round mark on my P238 and theres no signs of abnormal wear, the slide rails still even have 99% of their finish...
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I used to use oil on Sigs. Now all I use on them is TW25B grease. It works fine, but so did oil.
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Appreciate all the info and opinions my dudes, I am going to give grease a try on the frame/rails/slide and see how that goes.
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Slides get Lubriplate SFL0 except the Legion, which gets DuPont Krytox.
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I use wheel bearing grease on the rails and oil everywhere else. I figure that wheel bearing grease can withstand more wear than about anything else on moving parts.
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I've used just about everything and it all works fine. If you ever shoot where it's cold some grease can be pretty sticky and slow your slide down. I don't think I ever had a failure but it's weird watching your slide in slow motion.
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Just run it wet. I've carried sigs for about 16 years or so...they run well when wet and badly when dry. Grease isn't better and can load up with powder, pocket lint, and so on.
I run whatever oil is around, just lots of it. I've gone thousands of round over the course of a month or more with nothing but applying more lube. Slip works well but CLP is fine. |
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I use Slide Glide Lite on all my guns that have metal frames .
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I seem to remember when I took the Sig academy course the guys recomended grease for rails except for real low temps. Years ago the expert 1911 guys like Wilson called for grease on 1911 rails also.The Glock course told us to leave the factory grease on Glocks for 300-500 rounds to break in ,then use whatever firearms oil we had on hand in small amounts
When I was running 1911s hard in IPSIC matches I mostly went with grease for the rails. These days it is mostly a quick shot of CLP before a range trip and I mostly clean with CLP. Most lube type torture tests rate CLP as a pretty decent corroision preventive and with stored guns that is a big concern for me I have come to the conclusion that most advanced wear I see on guns is not the fault of the type of lube but the fact that many folks don't lube as long as the gun is running at all. If I was running a bunch of guns hard like at a training school or a rental range I would use grease on all rails because I believe it would give me longer life but with a quick oil job with CLP everything I own will long outlive my sorry ass. |
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I seem to remember when I took the Sig academy course the guys recomended grease for rails except for real low temps. View Quote If I encounter either of those conditions, the bad guys will have other more important things to do besides rob me. |
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For metal on metal (heck-just about anywhere friction is involved) I like grease. It stays put.
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Just run it wet. I've carried sigs for about 16 years or so...they run well when wet and badly when dry. Grease isn't better and can load up with powder, pocket lint, and so on. I run whatever oil is around, just lots of it. I've gone thousands of round over the course of a month or more with nothing but applying more lube. Slip works well but CLP is fine. View Quote Just keep it wet and it’ll run fine. Never been a fan of grease, can be messy and and tends to attract the nasty stuff more so than oil. |
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I've used both. Never noticed any difference. The grease fad started a few years ago. Other than Garands almost no one used grease on firearms until about ten years ago.
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I think that's what I use. Sigs are the only guns I've greased View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I've been using TW25B grease with excellent results. Plastic guns get Breakfree LP. |
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Been using Weapon Shield (the oil, not the grease). I do have a small tub of their grease as well, and I might give it a try on the slide rails when I next clean & lube.
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I use grease on my metal frame SIGs and oil on my Glocks.
IMHO grease provides better protection on the alloy frame wearing against a steel slide. With the polymer handguns, it is steel inserts in the frame against a steel slide. |
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Tw25B is a light grease and I use it on all my pistol slides and barrel linkage seems to stay put longer and doesn't dry up.
My new P320 came with a packet of Lucas Oil lube, will have to try it out. |
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Been using Weapon Shield (the oil, not the grease). I do have a small tub of their grease as well, and I might give it a try on the slide rails when I next clean & lube. View Quote I cannot say that the gun cycled any more smoothly with the grease than it did with the oil. So is the benefit less wear and a longer gun life, or smoother operation? |
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If it slides, grease it.
It it rotates or is springy, oil it. |
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The Krytox I use on my Legion has a useful range of –30°F to 550°F If I encounter either of those conditions, the bad guys will have other more important things to do besides rob me. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I seem to remember when I took the Sig academy course the guys recomended grease for rails except for real low temps. If I encounter either of those conditions, the bad guys will have other more important things to do besides rob me. I use mobil 1 red synthetic grease on my sigs. |
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I used to use oil on Sigs. Now all I use on them is TW25B grease. It works fine, but so did oil. View Quote I'm vague on the description of what I use it on because I use it on a LOT of stuff, not just firearms. Reloading gear, hinges... The only spot I would like to use it but don't is the AR's bolt. It gets used on the RAILS of the carrier, but no where else. The main reason for this is that it's easier to add a couple drops of oil and work the action a few times than get fresh grease in there and I'd rather not intentionally be mixing them at the range. Yeah, in theory if it was good to go when I left it's fine for most trips, but sometimes there's a bunch of people using one AR and the round count gets pretty high with some dirty ammo. I might be wrong, maybe I'd be better off with the grease and wouldn't have to relube, or maybe it wouldn't care about the mixing. I just know I've never had an issue doing it with just oil. |
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My only sig came with a small tube of grease... Sig grease...not sure what it is (manufacture wise)..but I normally use CLP.
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This. View Quote I got a couple cheap plastic syringes and filled'em with grease. Do just like the article says. |
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I have experimented with a few, graphite powder was a bad idea. Graphite grease worked great.
I use grease very lightly on the barrel and then more on the rails. Rack side 10times and clean off the excess. Mobile 1 red bearing grease. |
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I also use the TW25B on my Sigs. I only use it on the rails, and I use oil on everything else.
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I've been using Wilson's Ultima lube grease on my hi powers for 25 ish years and also a 1988 P226. I usually wipe everything down with whatever oil is the closest to me and then grease the rails, manually run the slide a few times and wipe off the excess.
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