Here's the situation...

During this mornings range session I just had my G34 go off on re-holster.  No major damage to me just two holes in my pants leg and an abrasion like wound running about 3" down the outside of me leg.

The pistol was completely in the holster and went off at the bottom, as I was pushing to verify that it was seated.

The glock is set up for IDPA racing..... trigger at 2.5 lbs

Lightening Trigger
Ghost disconnect
Titanium Safety plunger
$2 trigger job
Light springs.  


The holster is a kydex predator straight drop.

I have been having some problems with the pistol going 3-4 round bursts over the last few months and had thought it was "bump" firing from the light trigger.

I'm now having second thoughts. Has anyone heard of the above listed parts causing a potentially unsafe weapon?
Has anyone heard of this happening before (boom on re-holster)?


Input please, guys.

And no, my finger was definitely out of the trigger well. The pistol was at the bottom most portion of the holster andI was verifying that it was seated by pushing with the web of my hand (usual procedure).

This is not a glock flame. I'm a huge Glock fan and have shot various models for 15 years. I consider a G19 to be a superior carry gun.

My instinct is that either my shirt got caught up in the trigger guard and depressed the trigger on re-holster (possible......shirt was baggy, holster is cut across the top and trigger is light) or there was a mechanical malfunction. It just that I have never heard of this occurring with any glock.
Could the titanium safety plunger got caught up by crud and a light sear released? She was a bit cruddy....but again I've run 2k thru a stock G19 without a malfunction and no cleaning?
Is the burst fire related? Perhaps the sear engagement on the aftermarket trigger was too light?

In any case the pistol is going back to stock configuration, which wasn't bad to begin with.

I'm real interested if anyone has heard of this before and what issue was……….  

Thanks in advance.

Firstly, I'm really glad your OK.

I'm going to guess it was a combination of your clothing getting inside the trigger guard and all the "trigger work" you had done.

I don't even have a 2# trigger on my sniper rifles.  I can't imagine having one on my Glocks.  I can't imagine all the trigger work not having something to do with this, but I have no facts to base this on (can't really make a determination over the net).  

My $0.02.

I have seen a few Glocks that have had the triggers screwed with have ND's.  Polish the works and leave it be.  ANY trigger work can take it out of spec and make it dangeroud.  You were very luck to have a hole in your foot.  Here is a tip for you if you are going to make a race gun, use a race holster, like a CR Speed or Ghost.

wow, I'm glad your OK and sounds like a wardrobe malfunction

Where are all those "Well here's my safety, sir" people?

Honestly, the trigger is way too light for a Glock for me to feel safe, I don't know how you do, or don't, now.

Glad you're ok though.

Not a glock flame, but I feel the Glock shouldn't be used for comp. Dont get me wrong, its a very fine accurate weapon, but the trigger is the real safety of the weapon... modifying the trigger for comp makes the weapon alot unsafe. Hope your leg heals up fine, and glad your okay.

Nathan

Quoted: Ghost disconnect - connector $2 trigger job   I have been having some problems with the pistol going 3-4 round bursts over the last few months and had thought it was "bump" firing from the light trigger.

Most likely when you polished the connector you over did it at the "raised angled edge" changing the angle. What happens is, you pull the trigger and the gun goes "BaNg" then when you start to let off the trigger the trigger bar slides off the side of the connector rather then moving forward then off the connector, thus the doubles and triples. If you do some DRY fire testing I bet you can duplicate the condition.

1) Make sure the gun is empty(that means putting ALL ammo out of reach)
2) Point the gun in a safe direction and pull the trigger holding it firmly to the rear
3) Cycle the slide, then let the trigger start forward slowly until the trigger resets.
4) Repeat
5) At some point during, but before reset, the birds head of the trigger bar will drop off the side of the connector as you let it go forward, this is where you are getting your doubles.

First thanks for the kind words. No worries on the wound...nice and clean, really just an deep abrasion.  Enjoy the pic…better me than you!

Also thanks for the input. I have to be honest, I have a lot of trigger time but I learn every time I drop the hammer and I just learned that I don't know all that much, especially about glocks. My work short guns have been 1911's and M9s. A 2.5 lb trigger on a 1911 is light but manageable. Too light for work IMO but acceptable on a race gun as long as you mechanics are correct.....proper presentation, saftey sweep, etc. The Berettas and Sigs that I've used never approached a 2.5 SA trigger so it's really a moot point.

I also have butt load of rounds through glocks but never tried to "game" the gun until recently. In fact my practice and match loads have, for years, been 124gr with 5.2 of W231.  Pretty stout stuff, duplicating mil ball pretty closely. My glocks were kept stock with emphasis on tactical application.

Well a few months ago I decided to try racing again (using an IDPA match as a competive event vice tactical venue) and set up a G34 accordingly. I now feel that I over did it........a little knowledge is a dangerous thing and I simply don't know glocks well enough to start messing with trying to achieve a 2.5 reliable trigger.

Bottom line is that I'll probably never know if it was pure mechanical or wardrobe. The fact remains though that I created a dangerous set of circumstances by building a 2.5 trigger on a that pistol.  The funny thing is that the stock G34 trigger is just fine out of the box…..

Thanks again and if anyone has any similar experiences I'd be very interested in hearing about it.

BTW, she back in stock config…..I've got a match in the AM.  

Damn!

I bet you said, "That's gonna' leave a mark".

Ditto on the fact your O.K.

whoa! glad you are ok....

HotRod9mm:  I've been following your posts and you seem to have a knowledge of glocks.....question: with the mods that I performed could the sear have slipped and allowed the striker to fall forward? When I broke the pistol down the Titanium safety plunger was binding a little from crud.  Could the plunger have have bound in the up position, allowing the striker to fall if the sear slipped?  Murphies are always (always) a combination of small events that all go wrong at the same time to create a catastrophy...... could these circumstances allowed a ND? Is there something I'm missing on glock function that ulimately prevents this?  



NoHarmNoFAL-01: Those holsters won't work for IDPA......also, racing is my term for speed over tactics.  The predator meets the IDPA criteria. The other thing that I'm going to look closely at is my re-holstering drills with a Glock. I'm going back to old GunSite drill.


Thanks all for the input.

It's reasons like this that I do not muck with my Glocks.

I'm glad you're okay pdm.

Quoted: HotRod9mm:...question: with the mods that I performed could the sear have slipped and allowed the striker to fall forward? When I broke the pistol down the Titanium safety plunger was binding a little from crud.  Could the plunger have have bound in the up position, allowing the striker to fall if the sear slipped?

If the trigger is in the forward position, no, the "drop safety" will not allow the firing pin to move forward because the cruciform is to high blocking the pins path to the primer.

The only way it can go off even with the safety plunger stuck in the up position, is still to pull the trigger. The firing pin does not have enough spring pressure against it that if everything was out of the way and a rd in the chamber to set it off just by pushing on the back of the gun during re-holster.


Thanks for the pic. I'm really glad you are ok.    

Quoted: Not a glock flame, but I feel the Glock shouldn't be used for comp. Dont get me wrong, its a very fine accurate weapon, but the trigger is the real safety of the weapon... modifying the trigger for comp makes the weapon alot unsafe. Hope your leg heals up fine, and glad your okay. Nathan

Come on, now. The trigger is the 'real safety' on any firearm.  A safety is a mechanical device, and as such, can fail. I've had guys have NDs on my range with slicked up STI 1911s with superlight triggers because they froget to engage the thumb safety or it gets brushed off by accident.

I understand the gist of your post. But this was a coordination of mixed events that honestly could have happened with any gun that had been altered from its stock specs. There's a reason that any gun is designed the way it is in the first place. Safety and reliability.

My 'race' gun has the following:

OD Glock 34 (one of 3 Glocks I won in GSSF in 2005).
Dawson Precision front sight (.105")
Heinie rear sight
reduced power Wolff firing pin safety spring
stock firing pin spring
KKM match drop-in barrel
Ghost Rocket 3.5lb connector with a orange NY+ trigger spring (minus the NY coil spring, I just use the plastic part), with yours truly fitting, smoothing etc
Scott Weisselman TruGrip grip tape
Blade Tech dropped offset belt holster on a CR Speed race belt for USPSA
Blade Tech belt holster on a Galco instructors belt for IDPA

I stay away from the titanium parts, bad juju.

It's run fine so far other than it once short stroking at an IDPA match (ejected an empty casing but didn't pick up the next one) which is because I'm using a stock 17lb recoil spring with a 147gr ZERO bullet going 855fps which has very little recoil.  I'll be using a 15lb ISMI recoil spring in it soon which should give me some faster slide velocities as well and bring my split times down further, I'm running .15 -.22 right now.