So far so good with mine. I have 700 rounds through it with about half being suppressed. No issues with returning to battery but it definitely took some work getting the slide lock spring in. On a side note, they fit and secure just fine in a bladetech klipt ambi G17 holster
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Might just do that... still filing.  Appears to be the underside of the rear rails that is keeping mine from working freely... I've clearanced the top and sides enough, but underneath is still rubbing marker off if I move the slide a few times by hand.

And with a stock Gen 3 19 slide on the frame, it fits nicely into leather for a S&W M&P9/40 4.25".  The holster is well worn so the leather is soft, but it would appear a leather holster for the M&P series that isn't boned too tightly will be a good home.

Took it out this weekend for the first time.

Ran almost flawlessly through 230 rounds.

Rode the slide lock on the first shot of the second mag, and it locked back so my fault.

Had one sort of FTRTB. After a shot in the middle of a mag, the slide sort of slowly crept back into battery before locking closed. Could have just been some carbon build up or other debris or lube. Either way, it got itself home and was fine.

All in all, it's a nice tight fit and shot really well. Even with the stock trigger it had a fairly short reset, even if the initial creep was a little mushy. Overall, no complaints and I kept both hands which was a pleasant surprise.

I'm running it with XS Big Dot night sights so with a little more work at the range, it may make a very nice nightstand gun.

We have been idiots.  Guess where the serial number is...



http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_5_14/175976_Steyr-Sues-SIG-over-Removable-Chassis-System.html

That would be super interesting if that chassis fit / functioned in the Sig 320 frame.

I have this same problem with my M&P9 every once in a while. If it has no magazine in it and i pull the trigger it will do it(but not always), but with a magazine in it everything is fine.

Have always wondered what causes this.

I really dont like glocks, but i am really tempted to get the compact frame version and start acquiring parts for a build.

Then again i could just buy a  sheild for CCW.


Pretty good to have choices!

Man, i have always wanted one of those Steyr L9-a1 pistols. I kind of want Steyr to win, even if it is to see what the outcome would be.

I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do about an upper for my 80% frame. I can't decide between a used complete 40 cal glock and a threaded 9mm conversion barrel, a stripped slide and threaded 9mm barrel, or a 22 conversion slide.

So many choices...

I just finished mine a bit ago. It's still grinding a bit when the slide is pulled back. Will look at it more later. I dryfired it about 50-ish times. Seems ok in function.

get them all!!

i went stock glock slide for my compact build just incase there were any issues i at least knew i was using stock parts.

Project "Hanna" is just about ready for a test fire I believe. The slide doesn't RTB quite as strong as I'd like it to with the trigger held, but it does pass the RTB test. 

The frame is finally comfortable. Stipple job to follow, although I bet Talon grips would be sufficient at this point. 
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finally was able to take mine out last weekend. shot great other than my recoil spring being too heavy, which I figured it would be. fired about 150 rounds, and Now everything fits and feels like it should.

I split 500 rounds between two that I have built. One is 17 slide, and the other is a 34. They shoot great, but the brass goes everywhere, kind of weird.

the brass ejects better out of my poly 19 than my reg g19 i noticed today.

another 100 through it and it runs like a top. somehow, my buddy managed to stovepipe a shell on the last round of a mag, think it was his fault from limp wristing since he's used to blasting away with his G34.

Nice.  That is what I am going to attempt with mine if I don't fuuuck it up in the process.  Then I was going to run skate board tape once it is smoothed so I can replace it if it looses it's tack.  Thanks for posting up some inspiration for me.  

Success!

Finally got to hit the range with my Poly 80 compact (stock Gen 3 g19 upper) today.
Had 2 FTF in the first 10 rounds... 1 stopped about 3mm oob (round 4 of first mag) and one hung up on the feed ramp about 5/8" oob (was likely mag related, was first mag / first round into the gun with an old 'range only' mag).
After that first mag... smooth sailing.

Ran 250 rounds through it with only those 2 failures.  I'm pretty pleased with how this turned out... satisfying to see several hours of polishing and work turn out so nicely.

Here are mine frankenguns ))

24 is instantly my favorite
Need to start saving for rmr
Compacts are both 23 slides but one has 40-9 conversion barrel. Funny how conversion gun shoots flawless while 23 sometimes suffers frtb. Need to look into it.
http://pho.to/AhWnE

A couple notes... I should have switched to files sooner after dremel-ing off the big stuff... there are some gouges that bother me, but most should end up under stippling eventually. I think I'm going to do tree-bark stippling.

I took a lot of material off the upper part of the back strap up to the beavertail. The difference in feel in hand is amazing. I took the square-ness out of the backstrap as much as I dared because the stock P80 frame felt bigger than my G20SF that I've sanded and stippled. 

Anyone done a 17 slide on the compact frame?

My 1st Gen 17 slide seems to fit and hand cycle fine on the compact frame.. dust cover isn't long enough obviously.

Haven't shot it like that though.

I'm starting the hunt for a 17L or 34 slide for my full size frame now.. already have a 17, don't need a second one.

Yeah, i knew the dustcover wouldn't jive. However there are stop gaps that are made.

I read your comment earlier and was hoping you had one of those adapters in mind. I don't see why it wouldn't work. I love my compact frame!

IMO This is dumb. Fixing it tonight. 

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ETA the grip length specifically. I have some trouble seating mags. 

ETA2 now we are cooking with grease. 

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awesome, thanks for the heads up and the pics! Mag well turned out

Melted some plastic tonight. 

Anybody else have have any trouble with their magazine release? My spring seems to be pushing the button toward the back of the slot and causing a lot of extra friction. 

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Make sure your spring is seated correctly.  It helps if you have a spare Glock to compare it too.
Also, file the frame-engaging edges of the mag release.  Mine always seemed to come with burrs or just a touch too much plastic to seat correctly.

FYI for everyone, my Polymer80 compact fits great in a Safariland GLS holster.  Picked it up at the Gander Mountain sale.

Has anyone used the 80% lower with a Gen2 slide.

I see it only works with Gen 3 slides

Poly80 told me it wouldn't work with a gen1. But many Gen1 guns were upgraded to gen 3 frames by Glock if they had a problem. So I'm forging ahead with my gen 1 slide. I've got it ready for test firing and haven't hit a snag yet. 

Here is the archived thread of the one I did

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1927348_This_Thread_is_for_LoBrau_and_Brian_h___glock_stippling_related_.html

Looks like colors are up for pre-order at brownells.

Grey, Coyote, FDE and OD

link?

any word on when a new full size poly80 frame will be out?

Thought I would share how we are supposed to do a pistol build in California. Since the PF940C is not on our safe handgun roster you have to make it into a single shot bolt or break action pistol, meet height and length requirements, document as such and only then convert it to a semi action auto. The law also says we have to engrave our information on it as a homemade gun. Name, City/State and serial number. Does not say we have to register it so…that’s not going to happen.

Granted most of the builders in Ca do not do this, and as far as my google skills have shown, no one has gotten in trouble for NOT doing this extra step, but I am a bit of a tinkerer and have the time to mess around.

The attachment goes onto the bottom rail and the long screw replaces the recoil spring. When the nut on the outside of the aluminum plate (hard to see in the pictures, but it is there) is unscrewed it allows the slide to chamber a round from the dummy zero sled. When the nut is tightened it holds the slide in place when a round is fired. I.E. A single shot from a fixed magazine.

The zero sled is a ban era aftermarket Glock 19 magazine that I filled with spray in expandable foam. I will use a screw through the mag release holes to fix it "permanently" in place. I did not ruin a good magazine - this thing was junk.

After getting my information and serial number engraved, a buddy that owns a 9 inch G19 barrel will come over and we will assemble the single shot, slide action California safe pistol. I will take pictures of the entire procedure including the engraved metal plate with my information. I do not believe the law requires me to actually fire a round from this prior to modifying it to a semi auto, but just in case I would use a soft reload and a ransom rest.

Waiting on a few small parts and when they arrive I will then reassemble it as designed and hit the range. The frame modifications went well. I just used my old delta floor mount drill press and a XY vise. I did not follow the instructions when drilling the holes. I know my drill press table is flat and 90 degrees to the bit so I took a chance and used that instead of the recommended hand drill. Turned out great.

Here is a short video I made with the help of my daughter. All in all making your own handgun was a great learning experience worth every penny.
I never used supplied drill bits except the one for rear rails. Only dremel, flat files and sand paper. Also all internal glock part.
The only problem that did not go away after break-in is LWD recoil rod causing frtb in compact frame. Upon switching to oem glock rod problem disappeared.

G24 slide is our favorite now))))) I am planning to install either vortex or Burris rmr without milling slide.
And to add trijicon rmr to Poly80 slide since it's milled specifically for trijicon.

Both frames (compact and full size) are fitting nicely inside glockstore $40 holster made for glock 20/21

Has anyone tried using the PF940C rear rail insert in a PF940 full size frame? I thought I remembered reading some where that a person had performed the mod, but cannot find the post now.

So at what point do we all jump into a single thread over in the PSA forum and start lobbying them to turn out slides in 17 and 19 length?

Looking at the factory Glock slide, there really can't be to much to production costs if we talking about a "make it look like a stock Glock" slide and even if you add 70 seconds of milling time to cut some custom looking work into the slides, it shouldn't add a ton of costs if PSA's mass production format can drive the production volume high enough.

So, I completed my full size 80% lower a few months ago, and put my slide on it from my factory G17. About 1000 rounds of fine function out of the 80% lower before my rear rails snapped and the gun did a double tap. The frame is trash, or so I thought.

I brought the frame to work (I'm a machinist) and did some work with a Bridgeport milling machine. After about 30-45 minutes I fabricated a rear rail out of a block of 7075 aluminum. Then I milled out the plastic rear rail and some material from the inside of the frame.

I then dropped in the metal rail that I made and applied some gorilla glue to it. 24 hours later I now have a poly 80 frame with a entire metal rear rail and the slide moves good.

It's a little snug on the slide and when I keep the trigger pulled the slide doesn't go completely into battery when I slowly let the slide forward, but I believe that it will smooth out with some use/ polishing compound.

I will post pics soon if you guys want them.

Sorry if this has been covered but does anyone know if they are going to do anything for the 10mm/45 market?

Absolutely.  Did the Gorilla Glue expand on you @ all?

Have yet to see anything but I DID see a Sig 320 80% frame that should be coming out.

Just to be safe in drill and pin the rear rail if possible.

Not to get too off track, but how would that work?

You have to complete the drilling/milling of the metal (firearm) that goes into the frame and put a slide on.  It will use the factory Sig frame, you just need to finish the metal part that fits inside it

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This is the end result before I manage to clean it up cosmetically. There doesn't seem to be much space on the inside of the frame for me to pin the rail in, but perhaps I can figure out a roll pin.

The gorilla glue did expand but I cut away the excess with a exacto blade

I've got about 300 rounds through my compact, 2 stovepipes which could have been limp wristing as I do not have much experience with glocks. Otherwise its flawless


Also please excuse my crap shooting, I have very little time on centerfire handguns.

Looks like you've got plenty of frame in front of the block in case the slide decides it would like to inspect your jaw from close up.  That's excellent work.

Thank you, I'm quite proud of my work.

FYI - I contacted P80 about my rear rails for one of the two compact kits I bought. Both had the same issue with the rear rails but I only really concentrated on making one work. I finally broke down and contacted them again after trying to make mine cycle as smooth as a factory Glock...no matter what I did to the rear rails, including leaving them as they came, they just did not work right; the slide always felt like it was canted a bit against the front rail unit, never sitting level/straight.

They sent me a new rear rail unit and on dropping it in...it is a night and day difference. I don't know what (if any?) tweaks they made but this unit fits/functions %100 better than the unit that came with the frame kit. My P80 with all it's aftermarket parts cycles as smooth as my well worn Gen2 G19...if anything even better, because it cycles just as smooth but it's fit/lockup is a bit tighter, being all new parts.

Before I could barely get it to cycle with light, factory, or nuclear 115gr, 124, or 147gr loads. Forget cycling while suppressed with anything. I obviously need to get it to the range to verify, but I'd be willing to bet it cycles a lot better with all kinds of ammo now, and might even function just fine with a can on it now. We'll see!!

I've already asked for a replacement for the 2nd frame, and told them I'd pay for it if I had to, the new rear rail set. It'd be worth it to me.