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Posted: 6/19/2010 1:24:48 PM EDT
I need to get rid of the thumb stock on my MAK-90 for two reasons: 1) I'm left handed and its cut for a righty 2) In my opinion the thumb stock is flat-out UGLY - nothing beats the original AK look. So I'm thinking about replacing it with a butt stock, pistol grip, hand guard set from Ironwood Designs. Has anyone dealt with Ironwood Designs? I'd like to know about the quality and fit of their products.

BTW my MAK is has a milled receiver


Link Posted: 6/19/2010 2:07:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/19/2010 2:13:14 PM EDT by AKSU]
Slant cut milled Mak + Ironwood Design furniture = PURE WIN

Check out this link- jehu's MAK 8th post down by jehu, top rifle above the 2 Legends is a milled Mak with Ironwood Design furniture.
Link Posted: 6/19/2010 8:09:06 PM EDT
i bought an IWD stock for my milled mak-91 last year. very good quality and looks. i'd say go for it. plus there are not many other options for that receiver. they can direct you in the right direction for wood type to get the best match for the factory HG's. don't forget the finished pics.
Link Posted: 6/22/2010 5:24:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/22/2010 5:25:29 PM EDT by Maximum1]
Ironwoods Stock- Don't understand why the AK sling swivel cut in the traditional location (cut to fit std) is an $8.00 "upgrade". That adds 10.6% to the cost but if you select the non standard side location there is no extra charge. Doesn't sound fair?  
Link Posted: 6/25/2010 9:53:52 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
Ironwoods Stock- Don't understand why the AK sling swivel cut in the traditional location (cut to fit std) is an $8.00 "upgrade". That adds 10.6% to the cost but if you select the non standard side location there is no extra charge. Doesn't sound fair?  



It is because his milling machine set-up is for the more commonly requested side swivel location. If you want it on the bottom adjustments must be made to the milling operation. Takes him time so it costs you money. What's not fair about that?

There are a few other little idiosyncrasies with his selection too so make sure you specify exactly what you want. For example, his lower HGs for the MAK used to come with the (incorrect for Chicoms) bulges and if you wanted the correct flat sides you had to specify it. Not sure if they're still that way though.

Just so you know, in case you don't already, the stocks come unfinished and don't include the swivel, butt plate, or screws. The milled MAK version does include the thru bolt attachment method though.

It is a good product though, and for the milled MAKs is the only game in town.
Link Posted: 6/26/2010 7:15:21 PM EDT
Go with an Ironwood sock set.

Link Posted: 7/6/2010 8:35:01 PM EDT
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
Go with an Ironwood sock set.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u329/FUGGOVSKI/ARFCOM%20stuff/1292010130.jpg[/url]http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u329/FUGGOVSKI/ARFCOM%20stuff/1292010123.jpg


PreemptiveStrike, That's a great looking MAK the wood finish is first rate. What type of wood did you select? Also which stain did you use?



Link Posted: 7/7/2010 5:32:53 AM EDT
Not him, of course, but he posted that rifle in one of my threads a while back and I'm pretty sure he said that he chose walnut for that rifle.

Looks like walnut too.
Link Posted: 7/9/2010 9:58:03 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
Go with an Ironwood sock set.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u329/FUGGOVSKI/ARFCOM%20stuff/1292010130.jpg[/url]http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u329/FUGGOVSKI/ARFCOM%20stuff/1292010123.jpg


PreemptiveStrike, That's a great looking MAK the wood finish is first rate. What type of wood did you select? Also which stain did you use?





Sorry for the delayed response. It is Walnut.

I made a thread about the whole conversion and wood finishing here

I there's anything I can help with let me know.

Link Posted: 7/10/2010 4:35:00 AM EDT
Mine was Walnut also.
Link Posted: 7/10/2010 4:01:59 PM EDT
I like you have a Norinco NHM-90 and want to make it to look like a "traditional" AK. Reading 922(r). it says that no more than 10 imported parts remain in the final product. In short, you must replace a number of parts from your parts kit with American-made components.

Since my Norinco NHM-90 has a thumb hole stock is it legal or illegal to simply replace that stock with a stock and grip from Iron Wood Designs? In my mind I am removng one American thumb hole stock and replacing it with two American made parts (net increase of one American part). Sounds legal but is it?
Link Posted: 7/10/2010 4:21:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/10/2010 5:23:57 PM EDT by 86k10]
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
I like you have a Norinco NHM-90 and want to make it to look like a "traditional" AK. Reading 922(r). it says that no more than 10 imported parts remain in the final product. In short, you must replace a number of parts from your parts kit with American-made components.

Since my Norinco NHM-90 has a thumb hole stock is it legal or illegal to simply replace that stock with a stock and grip from Iron Wood Designs? In my mind I am removng one American thumb hole stock and replacing it with two American made parts (net increase of one American part). Sounds legal but is it?


you still have to use the 10 import parts or less on any post 1989 if you go with a pistol grip. your milled mak without muzzle attachment will require 4 US parts. an IWD will be 3 parts, the other 1 part is up to you. do you have a aftermarket thumbhole stock? the ones that came with the nhm/mak90 were also imports. you theory of just jusing a grip and buttstock dont sound legal because there is still 12 import parts on it. if you use a US mag it is all good.
Link Posted: 7/10/2010 6:06:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/10/2010 6:15:41 PM EDT by Maximum1]
you still have to use the 10 import parts or less on any post 1989 if you go with a pistol grip. your milled mak without muzzle attachment will require 4 US parts. an IWD will be 3 parts, the other 1 part is up to you. do you have a aftermarket thumbhole stock? the ones that came with the nhm/mak90 were also imports. you theory of just jusing a grip and buttstock dont sound legal because there is still 12 import parts on it. if you use a US mag it is all good.


Thank you for the assistance. I plan to replace the thumb hole stock with a stock from Iron Wood in addition to the pistol grip. Here' my count on the number of imported parts I will have after replacing the stock and adding a pistol grip.


922(r)
––––––––-
Receiver
Barrel
Bolt
Bolt carrier
Gas piston
Trigger (Sear is combined with the trigger on AKs so it counts as one part)
Hammer
Disconnector
Forearm, handguard
Follower
––––––––––––––
TOTAL IMPORTED PARTS COUNT: 10 so I'm legal, right?

Since I have a MILLED receiver the mounting block is part of receiver so it doesn’t count as a separate part. I don't have a threaded barrel, there's no attachment so this doesn't get counted.








Link Posted: 7/10/2010 6:33:39 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
you still have to use the 10 import parts or less on any post 1989 if you go with a pistol grip. your milled mak without muzzle attachment will require 4 US parts. an IWD will be 3 parts, the other 1 part is up to you. do you have a aftermarket thumbhole stock? the ones that came with the nhm/mak90 were also imports. you theory of just jusing a grip and buttstock dont sound legal because there is still 12 import parts on it. if you use a US mag it is all good.


Thank you for the assistance. I plan to replace the thumb hole stock with a stock from Iron Wood in addition to the pistol grip. Here' my count on the number of imported parts I will have after replacing the stock and adding a pistol grip.


922(r)
––––––––-
Receiver
Barrel
Bolt
Bolt carrier
Gas piston
Trigger (Sear is combined with the trigger on AKs so it counts as one part)
Hammer
Disconnector
Forearm, handguard
Follower
––––––––––––––
TOTAL IMPORTED PARTS COUNT: 10 so I'm legal, right?

Since I have a MILLED receiver the mounting block is part of receiver so it doesn’t count as a separate part. I don't have a threaded barrel, there's no attachment so this doesn't get counted.










i dont know what your mag is you are using but i dont see a mag body or floor plate, which would bring it back to 12 if those 2 parts mentioned are import.
Link Posted: 7/10/2010 9:34:19 PM EDT
[/quote] i dont know what your mag is you are using but i dont see a mag body or floor plate, which would bring it back to 12 if those 2 parts mentioned are import.[/quote]

Tapco mag & floor plate.

Link Posted: 7/11/2010 4:34:05 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/11/2010 4:34:22 AM EDT by PreemptiveStrike]
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
i dont know what your mag is you are using but i dont see a mag body or floor plate, which would bring it back to 12 if those 2 parts mentioned are import.[/quote]

Tapco mag & floor plate.

[/quote]

FWIW I personally wouldn't want to rely on mags to get my part count. IMO nothing is better than original metal mil-surp mags. In your situation I would change the stock, pistol grip, foregrips, and FCG.
Link Posted: 7/11/2010 6:19:49 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
i dont know what your mag is you are using but i dont see a mag body or floor plate, which would bring it back to 12 if those 2 parts mentioned are import.[/quote]

Tapco mag & floor plate.

[/quote]

ok i was confused because a saw on your import list a follower. i have to use a Arsenal US follower on my Mak90 because i got all chinese wood on my stamped. i feel ok about that one but not a fan of the whole tapco mag. if i was you i would go for the 3 piece stock and a piston if you like to keep your original FCG. the FCG is easier to replace IMO.
Link Posted: 7/11/2010 5:57:40 PM EDT
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
i dont know what your mag is you are using but i dont see a mag body or floor plate, which would bring it back to 12 if those 2 parts mentioned are import.


Tapco mag & floor plate.



FWIW I personally wouldn't want to rely on mags to get my part count. IMO nothing is better than original metal mil-surp mags. In your situation I would change the stock, pistol grip, foregrips, and FCG.


+1.

This really is the easiest way to go and you don't have to worry about eve using the incorrect mag with the rifle.

And if you haven't seen it already, this is an easy way to keep track of your conversion parts options and selections.

On my NHM-90 I have a Romy wire folder (foreign so no help with compliance), K-var HGs (1 US part), Hogue PG (1 US part), Tapco FCG (3 US parts), and a US made flash hider (1 US part), leaving me with 10 foreign parts and making my conversion legal with any magazine I put in it. If I wanted to keep the original HGs I would have changed to a US piston.

But the link I provided above makes it easy to play with the different combinations so you can find the one that best suits your needs and desires.
Link Posted: 7/12/2010 7:25:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/12/2010 7:38:11 PM EDT by Maximum1]
I think replacing the furniture with IWD (3 U.S. Parts), pistol grip, and the gas piston is solid advice that way I can use my dozen plus Russian mags. 

Thanks guys you helped steer me down the right (legal) path.
Link Posted: 7/13/2010 8:44:36 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
I think replacing the furniture with IWD (3 U.S. Parts), pistol grip, and the gas piston is solid advice that way I can use my dozen plus Russian mags. 

Thanks guys you helped steer me down the right (legal) path.



Just to make sure you understand, the pistol grip is one of the parts included in the 3 US parts gained by the IWD furniture. The three US parts that you get with the IWD furniture set is the buttstock (1 part), HGs (1 part), and the PG (1 part). The three piece IWD set and the piston will get you the four US parts you need on the milled rifle as long as you don't thread the muzzle. Of course if you do thread the barrel you just need to use a US made muzzle device.
Link Posted: 7/13/2010 2:23:40 PM EDT
IMO changing the FCG out would be much easier than swapping the piston and gets you more parts.

You understand that the piston is pinned and you'll have to find the pin and drill it out to unthread the original then re-pin the replacement?
Link Posted: 7/13/2010 3:24:56 PM EDT
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
IMO changing the FCG out would be much easier than swapping the piston and gets you more parts.

You understand that the piston is pinned and you'll have to find the pin and drill it out to unthread the original then re-pin the replacement?



Yes, the old piston rivet must be drilled and removed so the original piston can be srewed out. Then the new piston should be screwed all the way in snug, then backed out 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The actual spec is written somewhere but with the search engine I'd never find it again. Then the piston has to be drilled through the BC hole, then removed and re-drilled to an oversized hole, then replaced and riveted with a new GP rivet, and the rivet heads ground smooth and flush with the BC. It is done this way to allow the piston rivet hole to be larger than the rivet so that the piston has just a little wiggle, as designed.

Not a huge deal I don't guess but putting in a new FCG is much qucker and easier and gets you three parts instead of one. The only reason I would personally change the piston would be with configurations where I needed the one part in addition to the 3 FCG parts.
Link Posted: 7/13/2010 6:29:01 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Imaposer2:
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
I think replacing the furniture with IWD (3 U.S. Parts), pistol grip, and the gas piston is solid advice that way I can use my dozen plus Russian mags. 

Thanks guys you helped steer me down the right (legal) path.



Just to make sure you understand, the pistol grip is one of the parts included in the 3 US parts gained by the IWD furniture. The three US parts that you get with the IWD furniture set is the buttstock (1 part), HGs (1 part), and the PG (1 part). The three piece IWD set and the piston will get you the four US parts you need on the milled rifle as long as you don't thread the muzzle. Of course if you do thread the barrel you just need to use a US made muzzle device.



Crap, I counted the HGs as two parts not one so glad you caught my error. Also I think I'll go with the FCG instead of replacing the piston, less work and I get an improved trigger with reduced trigger pull.
Link Posted: 7/13/2010 7:04:17 PM EDT
Yeah, I thought you might have made that error as it is a common one to make. And I saw you mention the PG in addition to the IWD "3 parts". Wasn't sure if it was just a wording error or not but just wanted to make sure.

And yeah, I hear ya about the FCG being a lot easier than the piston. It has been my choice as well, but to be honest, I wouldn't expect an improvement over the original Chinese FCG. The Chinese triggers are generally considered to be among the best of the AKs, and while I didn't find the G2 to be bad I wouldn't be honest if I said it was better. YMMV.

I do like the original disco design better because it prevents the selector from rotating up, even if the cover is removed, unlike the Tapco unit. Not a big deal but it is a better overall design, IMO. The only other negative is that the G2 is made of MIM parts instead of forged and machined steel like the original parts. I've never heard of one failing but I'm not a huge fan of MIM for high stress (trigger hooks), high wear (engagement surfaces), or high impact (hammer) applications.

It's all good though. Unfortunately to stay legal we have to make compromises and we all just have to balance our parts selection to what ever makes us the happiest. The easy 3 parts of the FCG sways me in that direction since it fress me up for other parts.
Link Posted: 7/24/2010 1:09:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/24/2010 1:47:02 PM EDT by Maximum1]
Does the lower hand guard from IronWood Design have a notch cut into it in so I can insert this metal "thing" (don't know the offical name of the part shown in the pics below). Is this part even necessary?

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/Maximum1_photo/Mak90LowerHandGuard3.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/Maximum1_photo/Mak90LowerHandGuard6.jpg


Link Posted: 7/24/2010 1:28:03 PM EDT
no it dont. it is really not that necessary. but you got to order the mak90 handguard upgrade if you want to use that lower end cap without major modification.
Link Posted: 7/24/2010 2:09:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/1/2010 7:14:10 AM EDT by Maximum1]
Originally Posted By 86k10:
no it dont. it is really not that necessary. but you got to order the mak90 handguard upgrade if you want to use that lower end cap without major modification.


Uh?

So if I order the four piece "MAK" set for my milled receiver (#1MM SET) the hand guard doesn’t fit without modification?




Link Posted: 7/24/2010 3:21:23 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
Originally Posted By 86k10:
no it dont. it is really not that necessary. but you got to order the mak90 handguard upgrade if you want to use that lower end cap without major modification.


Uh?

So if I order the four piece "MAK" set for my milled receiver (#1MM SET) the hand guard doesn’t fit without major modification? I don’t understand why I’m forced to pay EXTRA for it to fit properly they either manufacturer it to work with the MAK 90 or they don’t. AND they certainly shouldn’t charge me EXTRA so it fits properly.

I’m beginning to think doing biz with Ironwood Design is a BAD idea. They already charge EXTRA for the swivel cut on bottom of butt stock which is the traditional location for the swivel and the fact is it does not cost any more to set up the cut for the bottom side of the stock vs. the side cut.

I need to rethink my conversion plans…I’m sure glad I didn’t order the Tapco G2 FCG.





no its not a big deal. with a standard milled mak90 set you get akm palm swell handguards. for the original chinese handguard style you have to upgrade the handguards to mak90 style for about $15 extra or you get the standard akm palm swell. IWD has gone up in price a bit. they use to offer $5 lightning cuts in the buttstock now its more. i got my milled mak set with upgrade HG for only $115 before shipping, now its more.



Link Posted: 7/24/2010 4:13:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/24/2010 4:25:36 PM EDT by Maximum1]
Originally Posted By 86k10:
Originally Posted By Maximum1:
Originally Posted By 86k10:
no it dont. it is really not that necessary. but you got to order the mak90 handguard upgrade if you want to use that lower end cap without major modification.


Uh?

So if I order the four piece "MAK" set for my milled receiver (#1MM SET) the hand guard doesn’t fit without major modification? I don’t understand why I’m forced to pay EXTRA for it to fit properly they either manufacturer it to work with the MAK 90 or they don’t. AND they certainly shouldn’t charge me EXTRA so it fits properly.

I’m beginning to think doing biz with Ironwood Design is a BAD idea. They already charge EXTRA for the swivel cut on bottom of butt stock which is the traditional location for the swivel and the fact is it does not cost any more to set up the cut for the bottom side of the stock vs. the side cut.

I need to rethink my conversion plans…I’m sure glad I didn’t order the Tapco G2 FCG.



no its not a big deal. with a standard milled mak90 set you get akm palm swell handguards. for the original chinese handguard style you have to upgrade the handguards to mak90 style for about $15 extra or you get the standard akm palm swell. IWD has gone up in price a bit. they use to offer $5 lightning cuts in the buttstock now its more. i got my milled mak set with upgrade HG for only $115 before shipping, now its more.



$135 + $13 S&H for the #1MM SET
Another $15 for the handguard "UPGRADE"
Another $8 for the "traditional" location (bottom cut)

Bringing the total for the IWD furniture to $171.00 that's a fairly BIG DEAL then add in the cost of replacing the FCG ($28.00+ $.7.00 SH) brings the total mod cost to $206.00!.

Too bad I would've liked to get rid of that ugly thumb stock but the furniture from IWD is more than I paid for the MAK-90, like 71% more.

BTW you did say "you got to order the mak90 handguard upgrade if you want to use that lower end cap without major modification." so how can I go with the akm palm swell?




Link Posted: 7/24/2010 4:39:02 PM EDT
it will go right in. no use of end cap.
Link Posted: 7/24/2010 4:41:50 PM EDT
the cheapest way to go and still be 922 compliant is to just order the buttstock, strip your handguard, go with original chinese or tapco grip and use a g2 FCG.
Link Posted: 7/25/2010 2:52:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/26/2010 3:54:29 PM EDT by Maximum1]
Originally Posted By 86k10:
the cheapest way to go and still be 922 compliant is to just order the buttstock, strip your handguard, go with original chinese or tapco grip and use a g2 FCG.


Thanks 86k10 for all your excellent input and guidance. I think that's the most cost effective way to go but l need to go with a U.S.made hand grip (like Tapco) since using the original chinese grip along with a stock from IWD and the G2 FCG would leave me one U.S. part short.


A side question, does it violate 922r if I mill the existing thumb stock so it can be used both right and left handed (my MAK 90 thumbstock is right hand ony)? I came up with a design which mills the existing thumb stock into a stock and pistol grip but leaves it as "one" unit using the same attachment method. I believe its perfectly legal since I using the existing thumbstock and not changing the current imported parts count.

922r "No person shall assemble a semiautomatic rifle or any shotgun using more than 10 of the imported parts"
Link Posted: 7/29/2010 5:18:47 PM EDT
I purchased the Tapco AK G2 Double Hook Trigger Group from Amazon for $23.74 also purchased a Hogue AK Rubber Grip (Black) for $20.75 and since I had a $25 gift card it was like getting two for one!!


I stripped the hand guards and now ready to buy the butt stock from IWD but I first want to be sure I select the wood which closest matches the existing hand guards. It’s my understanding the original Chinese AK some were made of birch wood but were the same pattern as the hackberry ones so selecting the hardwood birch stock from IWD should be a close match. IWD says the hardwood birch is well suited for staining and recommended for staining to match Chinese AKs.

Pics of the stripped wood...Do you think the hardwood birch stock will be a good match?
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/Maximum1_photo/MAKHandguards015.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/Maximum1_photo/MAKHandguards020.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/Maximum1_photo/MAKHandguards007.jpg

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p183/Maximum1_photo/MAKHandguards007.jpg







Link Posted: 7/29/2010 6:47:24 PM EDT
Chicom wood was Chu wood. Of the domestically available woods, birch will be the closest match in grain structure. The raw birch will most likely not have quite the same reddish brown natural pigmentation as the Chu, and will probably be more white. Depending on the color of the piece you get, you can tint it to get the "raw" wood to match first, then apply amber shellac to all pieces to get them to match pretty closely. There are many ways of going about it but my recommendation would be to use a very dilute and light solution of Rit powdered dye in denatured alcohol to tint the wood of the buttstock before applying the shellac.

On birch I would probably start with 1/2 teaspoon of Rit powder in dark brown mixed in 6 - 8 oz of DA and filtered through a coffee filter. I'd try it on small pieces of birch plywood from Lowes to get the exact color down before applying it to the stock. Just wipe a light coat on, let dry and compare the pieces. You can keep layering the dye solution on to darken the wood a little at a time. If it gets too dark just wipe down with a clean rag dipped in straight DA. Play with it until you get the buttstock to match the bare HGs and then put your final finish on all pieces.

Pics of the finished product are of course mandatory, and pics of the steps would be really helpful for others considering your ideas.

Good luck.
Link Posted: 8/29/2010 3:19:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/1/2010 5:21:56 PM EDT by Maximum1]
I want to begin by thanking Imaposer2 , 86k10 and AKSU for your help and sound advice....AND my sincere thanks to PreemptiveStrike for the informational links they were EXTREMELY helpful. I couldn’t have done the conversion without you guys!

Since my last post I ended up ordering a stock from IWD also purchased a Hogue pistol grip, Tapco G2 FCG from Amazon.

I refinished the existing hand guards; removed the old finish and stain then restained the upper and lower using MinMax Sedona Red Stain after 24 hours then applied three coats of Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane (aerosol spray). I sanded the IWD stock, applied MinMax Sedona Red Stain then applied three coats of Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. Parts are currently drying and I hope to have the furniture installed later this week.

Based on feedback I did polish (to a mirror shine) the trigger hooks and hammer using 600grit sand paper followed by Pumice then buffed it out with Rottenstone (a polishing abrasive). Installation of the Tapco G2 FCG was straight forward even the “dreaded” Sheppard’s Hook was a breeze to reinstall also installed the Hogue pistol grip. I’ve dry fired the new FCG and it works perfectly and it feels as smooth as the original Chinese FCG…Polishing made that possible so I HIGHLY RECOMMEND to anyone who plans to install the Tapco G2 polish the trigger hook(s) and hammer.

I will post pics when I install the new furniture.
Link Posted: 9/1/2010 5:16:29 PM EDT
Here are the pics of my recently completed MAK 90 Conversion


IWD Stock
Hogue Grip
Tapco G2 FCG
Original Hand Guards (refinished to match stock)

Used MinWax Sedona Red Stain
Finish - MinWax Helmsman Semi-Gloss (Aerosol)











I purchased my MAK 90 about seven years ago for $100.00 and put about $150 into it (includes cost for stain, finish, IWD stock, FCG, etc) Not bad for $250.00
Link Posted: 9/2/2010 5:31:34 AM EDT
That came out great. You did a good job matching the colors. What wood did you choose for the stock and how do you like the length on it?

I like the looks of the traditional "trap door" style butt plate but wanted the longer length on mine. Seeing yours kind of makes me wish I'd gone with that instead.

Nice job!!!
Link Posted: 9/2/2010 8:22:54 AM EDT
Looks to be birch.
Link Posted: 9/4/2010 3:04:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/4/2010 3:12:19 PM EDT by Maximum1]
Originally Posted By PreemptiveStrike:
That came out great. You did a good job matching the colors. What wood did you choose for the stock and how do you like the length on it?

I like the looks of the traditional "trap door" style butt plate but wanted the longer length on mine. Seeing yours kind of makes me wish I'd gone with that instead.

Nice job!!!


Appreciate the kind words. The stock wood is hardwood birch honey blonde which closely matches the original grain and results in a close color match.

My goal was to make my MAK to look like an original AK so I'm happy with the decision to go with the traditional "trap door" style and the hardwood birch stock. So now I have one of each: one "black" Mod AK and a traditional looking AK.





Link Posted: 9/5/2010 6:38:32 AM EDT
Ironwood makes great stuff. This is my milled MAK. The buttstock is made by Ironwood. The rest by the USSR.

CSF

Link Posted: 9/5/2010 10:32:43 AM EDT
CFS, very nice conversion! Now complete that last, final look and replace that darn Chinese M1947 "Polytech Legend" bayonet for a Russian M1947 bayonet.
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 4:31:00 PM EDT
Took my MAK 90 out the mountains today placed shooting clays along the face of a hill at 40 and 50 yards. I consistently hit the clays so I'm very happy with how smooth the Tapco trigger is after the polish job. Its a really nice shooting rifle. Shot 150 rounds with no misfires.

Shot from a standing postion, no bench, no other aids, iron sights only.
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