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Posted: 2/12/2006 7:07:13 PM EDT
I want a bayonet lug on my neutered SAR-1. No other reason other than I want it. I tried a bayonet lug kit that did not work out and thought about replacing the gas chamber but was told it was a difficult task. My last idea includes welding some small square or round stock and then shaping it with a dremel. Are there better ways to do this? Are there reputable gun smiths that can do this work for a decent price? Any other ideas other than the ones I have thought about?
Link Posted: 2/12/2006 7:21:51 PM EDT
check the ak faq for smiths, and have one them put on the gas block dont mess around if you dont know what your doing is my opinion
Link Posted: 2/12/2006 7:24:04 PM EDT
Where did you get the lug kit? I've been looking for one. Can't you weld the lug kit?
Link Posted: 2/12/2006 7:24:57 PM EDT
There was a guy on one of the boards a while back who was making adapters.

Basically , you drilled and tapped a hole in the block where the lugs were , and then
bolted his piece on.

Got good reviews.

You could try the same thing - less handwork and the only mod to your rifle would be a small hole.

Personally I would do it right and get a new gas block

Link Posted: 2/12/2006 7:48:18 PM EDT
Who told you swaping out the GB was hard?
It's just 4 pins that need to be driven out. The front sight and then the Gas block pressed off.
Assemble in reverse order.
Any gunsmith worth two bits can get it done fast.
Many people have done it themselves with just a hammer and a vice. Very WECSOG and brutal, but easy.
Link Posted: 2/12/2006 9:44:55 PM EDT
If you are handy with a welder, then modifying the neutered gas block should be a piece of cake. If not, the best option is replacing the gas block. If you have the proper tools(ideally, including a press), then the operation should be very easy. After replacing a couple of front sight bases with not much more than a vice and a BFH, I decided going through the process again to replace the gas block was not worth gaining a bayo lug-strictly my opinion.
Link Posted: 2/12/2006 9:54:35 PM EDT

It's just 4 pins that need to be driven out. The front sight and then the Gas block pressed off.

Tell that to my 2 SAR-1s. Both have the FSB pins welded I guess. They wont budge for anything.
Link Posted: 2/12/2006 10:09:24 PM EDT

Originally Posted By clange:

It's just 4 pins that need to be driven out. The front sight and then the Gas block pressed off.

Tell that to my 2 SAR-1s. Both have the FSB pins welded I guess. They wont budge for anything.



penatrateing oil,.. lots and lots of it,.... let it "maranate" for at least two days,....a propane torch and a can of compressed air (the stuff to clean keboards)


a good set of pin punches and a good deadblow hammer (i use a 16oz dead blow ball peen hammer)
use the canned air to cool/freeze your barrel buy turning/ spraing the can inverted,...let the air clear,....put the torch on the front site,..and hammer off,..repeat for the gas block

intalation is the oppisite with the exception of adding anti-sieze to the barrel sight and gas block before attempting to re- install

helps to have a good vise so make sure your rifle is held secure.
Link Posted: 2/12/2006 11:15:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/12/2006 11:18:04 PM EDT by clange]
I've tried oil, didnt work.

I've read some in fact were welded. I guess you either have to dremel off the welded part or drill them out.
Link Posted: 2/13/2006 5:25:08 AM EDT
My SAR was indeed welded on too.

One side of the FSB had the pins welded over. Why...who knows.

It broke a brand new drift punch like nothing, thats what made me take a second look, and sure enough it was welded.

Not to worry though, just grind down the sides of the pins. they will knock right out. Use a good punch though. AND USE SAFTEY GLASSES. Still haven't found the head of my punch
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