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Posted: 2/3/2006 5:56:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/3/2006 5:56:28 PM EDT by TheHomelandSoldier]
Any ideas? Anybody accomplish this before?
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 5:56:53 PM EDT
thread it for 1/2x28, unless there's enough there to thread for 14x1lh
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 5:58:00 PM EDT
But isn't the original "diameter" gone?
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 6:00:32 PM EDT
An original 14x1 LH slantbrake just slides on and off, bbl seems too thin now for rethreading.
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 6:07:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/3/2006 6:07:32 PM EDT by TheRedHorseman]
check the barrel diameter, you might be able to do 1/2x28 without much trouble
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 6:14:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/3/2006 6:15:10 PM EDT by TheHomelandSoldier]
It's 15/32's, or a little over 7/16ths
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 11:32:32 PM EDT
?
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 5:19:22 AM EDT
Make a 14mm diameter ring and thread it for 14x1 LH and bore the ID of the ring the same as the OD of the turned down barrel. Then silver solder in place. It's the only thing I can think of.

Link Posted: 2/4/2006 6:55:28 AM EDT
Do the 1/2x28 thread. I just did my WASR 10 and it turned out great. Global Trades have come up with quite a few suppressors and breaks with this type of thread.Madtechcool
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 7:01:25 AM EDT
If you have access to a good machinist ,and a good selection of tooling you might consider having a double threaded adaptor made.
Find out what the actual diameter of the turned down nub is and thread the nub, then have a tightly sized "tube" threaded to match the now threaded nub on the I.D., and have the appropriate thread on the O.D. (Probably 14mm x 1 L.H.). Silver solder all of it together.
If everything is tight to start with, I can't see how this would shoot worse than the original nub, possibly better because of the added support.
And let's face it, we aren't talking Benchrest quality accuracy to start with.
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 10:33:53 AM EDT
Thanks guys! Global Trades, make a sleeve, 1/2x28, thanks for the options.
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 12:29:19 PM EDT
What about JB weld? Don't they advertise that it can be threaded after it cures?
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 12:59:33 PM EDT

Originally Posted By kc8ard:
What about JB weld? Don't they advertise that it can be threaded after it cures?

JB Weld will work with some things but put under stress, it lets go. I wouldn't trust it.Madtechcool
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 1:26:38 PM EDT
Slip the slant break over it drill a slight hole and tac weld to the barrel or drill a small hole on the bottom of the break into the barrel and lock tight a set screw.
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 1:31:56 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Madtechcool:

Originally Posted By kc8ard:
What about JB weld? Don't they advertise that it can be threaded after it cures?

JB Weld will work with some things but put under stress, it lets go. I wouldn't trust it.Madtechcool



I've heard that it can used to repair an engine block. Is that claim more or less bunk?
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 6:05:02 PM EDT

Originally Posted By kc8ard:

Originally Posted By Madtechcool:

Originally Posted By kc8ard:
What about JB weld? Don't they advertise that it can be threaded after it cures?

JB Weld will work with some things but put under stress, it lets go. I wouldn't trust it.Madtechcool



I've heard that it can used to repair an engine block. Is that claim more or less bunk?

If the area to be fixed is spotless, grease and oil free, and it needs a rough surface to adhere to. Cleanliness is the factor. Build it up in thin layers with plenty of hours to dry between layers. 3-5 layers built up should hold the pressure. Remember that word, cleanliness, plus that rough, porous surface to adhere to. Madtechcool
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 6:12:42 PM EDT

Originally Posted By TheHomelandSoldier:
Any ideas? Anybody accomplish this before?

I'm willin' to bet that your muzzle will take the 1/2x28 thread. Once threaded, it looks small bit I'm sure that you can save that muzzle without riggin' sleeves and shims and whatnot. Don't spend that money if ya don't have to. My WASR 10 turned out slicker than snot on a stick shift. Try it, you'll like it.Madtechcool
Link Posted: 2/4/2006 6:13:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/4/2006 6:16:35 PM EDT by Madtechcool]
OOPs, sorry, double tap. madtechcool
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