For those of you that live in NY State, or atleast not too far from Syracuse NY, I am selling my Arsenal USA SSR-99. I have all the details over on a post I put up over on the AR-15 dot com rifle and shotgun sale forums. Hope you all don't mind me putting the heads up over here :)

Thanks

I know Campy...........it's been a long road with me and the SSR-99 story.

Anyhows, gots to do it, sometimes these things happen :)

If I sell this weapon, I may have to change my forum board name to "WAS SSR-99" LOL!!!


The person that buys it will get my folder full of info about these weapons history. It only took me 4 years to drain as much info as possible from the people behind the project ;)

Figure I will hand over the reins to who-ever buys the gun. While it may be that a buyer will end up using it as a shooter, it will probably be more desirable to that someone that likes to collect different AK specimens. This model sure is a rare bird as far as production AK's go :)

The photo I supplied does not do the gun or display much justice, but it somewhat offers a glimpse of what one would be getting. I personally built the wall display for it, and I'm a wood refinisher by trade, so the display is not some shabby looking piece. It really does enhance the guns ownership.

There is another unfired SSR-99 on the other AK boards that is selling for $900.
That is not a bad price for one of these rare birds. But, for that price, one can get my unfired SSR-99 "and" my one of a kind custom built wood, glass, and brass display case (or just the gun for $700) :)

Damn, you beat me to the changing of your name.

What gives with you selling it?

BTW, I have a couple of stocks to refinish.  Any advice?

Sundance,

The sale of the gun is going to help get me out of a tight financial situation..........you know how it is......shit happens :)

As far as finishing or refinishing wood stocks (or wood anything for that matter) it just comes natural to me (been doing it for so long now), so it's a feel as you go thing with me.

My key advice on finishing or refinishing, is to not over do the sanding. If things are pretty smooth to begin with, using 320 to 400 grit is more than enough, and don't concentrate in any one area (always go with the grain of course). Especially refrain from hitting the edges "too" much with sandpaper (no matter how fine), because that will be the area that will seperate the boys from the men. Even a little bit too much sanding on edges will cause a noticable re-contouring, and/or light looking areas that won't take the stain as well as should be.

I would say that hand rubbed finishes work best for me on things like gunstocks or fine furniture (I prefer tung oil, but will settle with linseed oil). Wet the bare wood or stained wood with the tung oil/linseed oil (using a lint free rag), and let it saturate for a while (5 minutes or so, while keeeping it somewhat wet). Then again wet it some more, and work it in using a cloth that does not shed on you (nothing like fighting off stuck cloth fibers on your project). Then take a clean unused cloth (always a soft lint free type), and rub it down. You are not trying to remove all you have applied, only buffing it out. Let it dry 24 hours, then repeat the steps. Once you have done this three or four times, you will again wait your 24 hours to dry and then ever so lightly go over it with 0000 steel wool, lightly rub the surface (always with the grain). Once this is done, remove the fine dust left behind, make sure you don't leave metal steel wool splinters, and begin the oiling process again (tung or linseed.........whatever you have been using). This should be done atleast two more times after receiveing the light steel wooling. Always buff the oil with care, and careful that you rest it in a manner that it stays clean and fingerprint free while drying. If you feel it needs more, do more, but remember, this is a hand rubbed finish. You don't rub so hard that you remove all of what you just put on, but not so softly that you are leaving a film like painting with a paint brush. The last few coats can be rubbed with more pressure, since you will now have a bit of a base.
After the first two coats of the project, you should have a bit of a feel for it. :)


Hope this helps :)

Oh, forgot to mention..........Minwax oil stains are real good for gunstock work. They not only offer good colors, they also act as a sealer. Also, they don't contain water, and I would stay away from water based stains. They work, but in my oppinion..........not as good.

Also, water based stains fuck up all that smoothing out you did with the fine sandpaper...........how?.......because water based stains open the woods grain..........CAN"T STAND IT!!!!! LOL:)

sorry to hear that.  Get outside and fire that thing now.  Hey, nice case.

Sundance,

I also forgot to mention how to get the old finish off.

I "ALWAYS" use a chemical paste paint stripper.

There are two popular chemical types, one is the non flammable kind (main ingredient is Methylene Chloride), and the other is the Flammable type (the main ingredient escapes my mind right now). I prefer the flammable type. Use those plastic bristle brushes with the handles to scrub away. Don't use any scrapers and such on your stocksets. Use a solvent like denatured alcohol to remove the strippers residue when your done. With some stripper chemicals, you can wash the residue away with water, but that raising and opening the woods grain can become a problem. Besides, the drying time is less when using the solvent method (like denatured alcohol). All these chemicals require use in a well ventilated area, preferably outdoors in the shade. Wear chemical resistant gloves, and protective eyewear. Make sure you have a bucket of clean water just in case you get some on your skin, or worst yet, your eyes. Just flush eyes for a while with clean water, you should be fine.  

Make sure all chemicals you use (like the minwax stains) are thrown in a plastic bag that are filled with quite a bit of water, and is then placed in a safe location away from the building until you properly discard it. Some chemicals will catch fire on their own (without fire or external heat being present), so don't just throw the stuff away in your kitchen garbage can. Years ago I worked for a big refinishing company, and I wittnessed a ton of these self started chemical fires, but we were always lucky in that we always had them in the large metal dumpsters that were about 150 feet away from the building.

I don't take this shit lightly, and I have never had a problem using my methods of safety :)

Good luck :)

Sweet rifle and great looking display case.

I'm sorry that you have to let her go, and I hope everything works out well for you.

Thank you :)

It's sale will help me out a bit, and someone will have a scarce gun at a very fair price..........guess that old phrase would then come in to play......"All's well that ends well"

:)

SSR,

Thanks for the advise.  I always like getting it from someone who does it for a living.

I think you should sell one of your SAM-7's and keep the SSR or 2 if you have to.

Good luck and I hope everything works out for you.

God Bless.

I do have other AK's, but only one SSR.
The reason I chose it for selling, is that I felt it would be easier to sell, being that it is a rare bird. I mean, SA M-7's, SAR-1's, they are still available, so maybe not so desirable. One can currently go through Aim or FAC for one of the others mentioned, but the Arsenal USA SSR-99 with it's milled Bulgarian receiver is long gone, so it may make a more desirable sell. I do have someone interested in it, but I will not put sold on it just yet, not until I get a definite response from the potential buyer :)

Thanks
:)  

As an update to the gun being sold, I have now decided to consider sending the gun out of state using the dealer to dealer transfer method. There are some catches on me doing it this way though. If interested, and want more details, here is a link to the for sale post:

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=93&t=185403

Thanks

SSR-99

I was wondering if you might post some other pics of your rifle. Specifically some close ups of the receiver and how a SSR-99 is marked.

Thanks, J

No, I don't have a digital camera. The photo that I have up was taken with a cheap throw away camera months back. When I had the film developed at "Wally World" I had them place some of my family photos on a floppy disk. The photo you see in the post was one of those on the floppy disk :)

I "can" describe to you what it has.


On the right side of the receiver

upper left is printed with
ARSENAL USA
HOU TX

lower left is printed
ARSENAL CO.
BULGARIA

Inside the milled rectangular section, above the mag area, and below the rested bolt carrier area, the following is printed
MODEL SSR-99
CALIBER 7.62x39

Of course, the gun also has the letters "S" and "F" for the safe and fire positions.

On the other side of the receiver (left side), the serial number is printed.

Yeah Campy, they built a total of 252 (including the prototypes). Out of those 252, about 150 or so were built for them by Gordon Technologies, the remaining number were done by Arsenal USA's own in house staff. The gun I have is a G-Tech built weapon, and about 3 years ago I contacted Jerry Gordon, and he supplied me with a copy of the production inspection sheet on my gun. I will be sending this sheet along with the gun :)

Thanks SSR-99

It looks similar to a SLR-100H, just much more rare.

-J

Plus it's made using all new components, nothing off of a used gun, nothing off of a new surplus gun............just new :)

Also, many guns have cockeyed mounted gas chambers and front sight blocks, but not on G-Tech assembled SSR-99's. Why?........because sometimes the barrel assemblies that are taken off of used military weapons had their barrel assemblies mounted cockeyed from the get go (since the original full auto donor was made). On the G-Tech made SSR-99, the barrel assemblies were totally new unassembled components, so Jerry Gordon and his staff had to fully assemble them at his shop, and he assembled them nice and straight :) My specimen is no exception :)


Oh, by the way.....
The only serial numbers on this gun are placed on the left side of the receiver, and in to the bolt head (matching, of course) :)

SOLD!

Funds received :)

Thank you :)