Terrible pic, but my trigger pin keeps backing out on my new WASR. It doesn't unseat or anything, and the pic shows the maximum that it will move.

I don't know if it's an issue, but it's annoying.

Attached File

I'm assuming you mean the trigger pin? If it's properly retained then it shouldn't be.

Yeah, my phone was dying and I was trying to hurry.

I thought that was the case, my SLR never had that issue.

Needs a new retainer then?

It could be the pin. I keep a box full of pins purely for this reason. Some are oversized, some under, some longer, some shorter. Could be that the groove for the retainer is oversized allowing it to move more than the other one.

I just took it down, there is nothing holding the trigger pin at all.

A firm push and it drops out.

Well there's your problem.

So if the pin falls out while firing it will run away, kind of...  I've had that happen once.  Shepard's hook broke on a cheap century gun years ago, not good.

Recommended fix?

retaining plate

I like the retainer plate (bottom of pic) vs. the shepherd's crook retainer (top of pic). I have a newer WASR 10 as well, and it has the wire-retainer (shepherd's crook) like the pic on the top. If your WASR doesn't have any retainer, it either come loose and got lost somehow or was never installed to begin with. I can't imagine something like that coming loose inside the receiver and not causing a hang-up or issue with the function of the rifle. The safety lever is what holds both in place. If someone removed the safety lever, it could have fallen out of place or out of the receiver. 

Since Century Arms replaces the FCGs on the WASRs, it may have gotten left out. That would surprise me that something like that would get by QC, but stranger things have happened. 



ETA: On the installation of the retainers, the wire shepherd's crook (AKA paper clip:-), the wire of the retainer fits in the bottom side of the grove in the hammer pin; the wire is then pressed down on the top side of the grove in the trigger pin, and secured by the safety lever where it passed through the receiver hole on the left side. 

Similar process with the retainer plate, except the retainer plate fits in the hammer pin grove from the side; then push it down on to the pin grove of the trigger pin and secured with the safety lever, same as with the wire retainer.  

My SAR 1 had a similar wire retainer, but shaped different than the above, and didn't need the safety lever to hold in place; it used the tension of the wire to secure it in the groves of the pins. I replaced that one with the retainer plate, which is less likely to come loose and allow the pins to walk out of place.

3mm e clips or a retainer plate. While purist will yell the wire hook is to much of a pita.

Get rid of the Shepards Hook since it's the weakest link to the AK. I yank all mine and replace with a retainer plate.

+1 Been using E-clips since 2005 no issues at all.

The e-clips would definitely cost less; 20 cents (10 cents each?) as opposed to $5.00 for the retainer plate. I'd still prefer the retainer plate, but that is just me...

drobs how do you pull yours off the pins?

Here's an old link on removing the fire control group.

http://www.novarata.net/Linx310/fcgremoval.shtml

If there is a shepperd's hook in there, you want to fully remove it.

Here's a video that shows how to remove it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cj1kOrolnS0


I took my trigger pins over to my local small family owned hardware store and tried out the E-clips in the screw, nut, and bolt isle.
You might put 2 clips on each pin. Doesn't really matter.

I get and understand all that. I am specifically asking how you remove the e clips.
Hook? Needle nose? Attach a small wire to the clips and leave in the rifle?

Wow we both been here awhile.....damn

I use a dentist tool.  A hook I guess.

I can't see there being an issue.

Small screw driver.
Large screw driver.
Ball point pen.
Pointy stick?

What ever you can find to push it off.