I just spent over an hour scraping , soaking , and scrubbing my AK74 brake. After 600 rds I could barely get it broke free and is was caked with thick carbon. Even being chrome plated inside didn't make much difference. And this was with non corrosive ammo too. So how do those neglectful Soviets keep that brake clean and prevent it from "welding" to the FSB ? How do you keep your 74 brake clean ? -Thanks

I had the same issue.  Now I apply some Lucas Oil Red N Tacky Grease to the muzzle brake threads after cleaning.  Problem solved, at least the binding issue.  As for the brake chamber, I have no clue.  Ultrasonic cleaner?

+1 for grease on threads

I shoot corrosive all the time and never had one get stuck on there. Well once, but I didn't clean it for like 2 weeks after I shot it. I use CLP almost exclusively and just put a tad on the threads after cleaning. I don't do anything else special. I usually only shoot about 1-200 a session though, so maybe that's it. 

I assue everyone on this site has Aeroshell laying around by the gallon...

Just clean the threads a bit after each range session. The inside of the brake the muzzle face won't get stuck by themselves, though I don't recommend leaving it uncleaned after shooting corrosive

I have had rust from 7N6 on the way back from the range before, and have not had it for 6 straight months without cleaning. Texas is kind of fickle on humidity I guess

Ancient Chinese secret.

Just break it loose after each range session and clean thoroughly.
To prevent the brake from freezing in place some people recommend using a high temp anti-seize compound on the threads.

When I got my Bulgarian build with a chrome lined ziz-zag brake I first tried cleaning with Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.
I'd soak it in the bottle and that would remove some of the fouling but the inside was still black with it.

Next I tried packing the brake and chrome lined gas block with Hoppe's #9 and letting it soak a few hours after running hot water through it to remove the corrosive residue.
The paper towel would turn bright blue with copper fouling from the copper plated 7N6 surplus ammo.
I'd remove the paper towel and re-pack and soak again, often doing this 5 or 6 times over a couple of days.  
It was still black inside.

After soaking I tried rubbing inside with a Lead-Away type cloth but that still left the brake black inside.

Finally I bought some Shooter's Choice Extra Strength Copper Remover to clean a rifle barrel and just as an experiment I tried that inside the brake and gas block.
To my surprise it removed virtually ALL the fouling right down to the hard chrome, leaving it completely clean and bright.
I pack the brake and gas block with paper towel and soak with the Shooter's Choice and let soak 30 minutes.
I usually have to do this no more then 2 to 3 times and it's completely clean.

Concerning soaking the brake with Hoppes.. Hoppes is an ammonia based solvent and ammonia is corrosive to chrome. It may not ever cause a problem for you but I thought I would mention it.

I think the simplest answer is Russian soldiers just scrubbed the crap out of it after any action or range time, lest they get roasted by their Sgt/NCO/whatever.

Personally I've never had a 74 brake get stuck but I don't shoot corrosive.

Get a cheap sonic cleaner from Harbor Freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html
If I shot black powder pistols, I'd own this in a heartbeat.

Ultrasonic cleaners can work well to clean gun parts depending on what cleaning solution you use.

I still have my old watchmakers ultrasonic cleaner and even when used with Slip 2000 Carbon Killer it still failed to remove the fouling inside the muzzle brake.

Hard chrome is resistant to normal ammonia, and Hoppe's #9 doesn't have that high a percentage, so it would likely have to soak days before any possible damage.

The Shoot's Choice copper solvent works so fast it wouldn't have time to damage the hard chrome.

Aeroshell on threads.  AR chamber brush fits the 5.45 muzzle brake; chamber portion fits the exit/baffle holes and the locking lug brush portion fits the brake chamber.  Remove brake and insert chamber brush in the threaded end.  Cupped Dremel brush (brass or stainless) connected to a pin vise works on the inside face of the brake.  Repeat after each range trip.

Would non chlorinated brake cleaner work to remove your carbon? I've used it on many other parts on my ak47 rifles with success. Careful on your finish some finishes don't play well with brake cleaner be sure non chlorinated if you try it.

Diesel fuel. Seriously

Too simple, must be hi tech and self clean

Alkaline solution

I put a little grease in the threads so I can get the brake off.

But I don't clean my brake out. I tried for a while to keep it clean but it was such a chore i said screw it. Down the road I shot some ammo that was supposed to be non-corrosive but was. I had pitting in the gas tube and some on the bolt carrier, but none in the brake. I think the built up carbon acted as a barrier.

I just use CLP as well.

The Breakfree bore cleaning foam does a great job of getting the baked on carbon off. If you use it regularly one shot it all you need. If the carbon is really thick multiple applications might be needed.

AJ

Why do you need a brake on a semi auto 7.62x39 or another variant? Well maybe front end weight.

eta: not gd

Kroil

I have well over 18000 rounds of 7N6 through my favorite 5.45 and have never cleaned the brake. Is there some reason to do so?

Do you use anything to chip/scrape off the built up carbon?