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Posted: 9/6/2010 3:36:53 PM EDT
It appears that the hook that sits on top of the trigger broke in half while I was shooting. The spring that was under it is gone. Do I have to buy a whole new trigger group of just the part that broke and the spring? Also where would be a place to buy a quality replacement? I dont know the exact name of the piece.
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 3:44:33 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 4:00:30 PM EDT
Get some eclip or hair pin clips and put them on the fcg pins
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 4:11:46 PM EDT
Originally Posted By JedYonkers:
Get some eclip or hair pin clips and put them on the fcg pins


What's that going to do to fix a broken disconnector?
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 4:27:45 PM EDT
Originally Posted By iamg0ku:
Originally Posted By JedYonkers:
Get some eclip or hair pin clips and put them on the fcg pins


What's that going to do to fix a broken disconnector?


re read thought you meant the shepherds hook.
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 4:48:29 PM EDT
The disconnector looks like its made of pot metal and its really thin where it slides on to the pin.
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 5:12:13 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Indy96:
The disconnector looks like its made of pot metal and its really thin where it slides on to the pin.


Not sure what you've got (I'm betting an arsenal FCG) but if it was me, I wouldn't want to just replace the disco knowing that the hammer and trigger are probably made of the same thing.

I'd be thinking tapco G2 trigger set.
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 6:39:27 PM EDT
This is exactly what I have against cast FCG parts.
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 6:46:59 PM EDT
The OP hasen't said what brand of FCG that broke.

It could be a G2.
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 7:08:09 PM EDT
Originally Posted By IMR:
The OP hasen't said what brand of FCG that broke.

It could be a G2.


Its A Romanian underfolder...........I believe its a Century
Link Posted: 9/6/2010 8:03:37 PM EDT
If it is a G2 it will say G-Tech G2 or Tapco G2 on it. If it is an old Century set it will probably be marked with a "C"
Link Posted: 9/7/2010 4:39:59 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Mak:
If it is a G2 it will say G-Tech G2 or Tapco G2 on it. If it is an old Century set it will probably be marked with a "C"


We have a winner! It has A "c".
Link Posted: 9/7/2010 7:32:54 AM EDT
There you go... I was pretty sure it wasn't a G2. I've never heard of them breaking.
Link Posted: 9/10/2010 12:13:35 AM EDT
Did it run away from you when you shot with the disco broken?
Link Posted: 9/10/2010 1:02:37 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Indy96:
Originally Posted By Mak:
If it is a G2 it will say G-Tech G2 or Tapco G2 on it. If it is an old Century set it will probably be marked with a "C"


We have a winner! It has A "c".


Buy a TAPCO G2 fire control group and a disconnector spring.
The G2 fcg will have a much better pull and is much less likely to break.
Link Posted: 9/10/2010 3:23:43 PM EDT
I learned my lesson using Metal Injection Molding FCG's a few years back. Had one made by Arsenal (of course) where the hammer broke clean in half on my SLR-105. Replaced it with a Bulgarian hammer. Haven't gotten around to replacing the entire FCG on it yet but it's on the list. I just bought an SGL-31 that left for The Firing Line in Oklahoma the morning after I brought it home to have a Russian polymer side-folder installed. As soon as it comes back I'm ordering a billeted steel FCG to install in it and my SLR-105. I'm not dealing with those crappy MIM parts again.

On a related note, I've got a Tapco G2 in my AKMS copy and I have to say that's one damn fine FCG. Great feel and awesome trigger break. Very smooth. I may end up using G2's in my others as well (except my Chicom MAK-90 which has a pretty nice double-hook).
Link Posted: 9/10/2010 4:52:09 PM EDT
G2's are good to go. They have the heat treating done properly, so it doesn't matter how they were formed.

I've had to do significant reshaping of the hammer face for some of my custom builds, and I believe they are hardened all the way through.

Tapco claims they are made of 4140, and that claim makes sense because 4140 is a through hardening steel.
Link Posted: 9/15/2010 10:31:33 AM EDT
Originally Posted By AJSully421:
Did it run away from you when you shot with the disco broken?


At the time no cause the broken piece was in the way of the bolt coming all the way back......Later though I was wondering what would happen cause you can still cock the hammer and pull the trigger to release it. I havent shot it since but it appears you could still fire it. Anyone else no more about this?
Link Posted: 9/15/2010 11:01:46 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Indy96:
Originally Posted By AJSully421:
Did it run away from you when you shot with the disco broken?


At the time no cause the broken piece was in the way of the bolt coming all the way back......Later though I was wondering what would happen cause you can still cock the hammer and pull the trigger to release it. I havent shot it since but it appears you could still fire it. Anyone else no more about this?


Many of us know that firing a broken semiautomatic rifle that may go full auto could be dangerous and that firing it knowing that it may go full auto is sometimes considered illegal.
Avoid possible injury and/or prosecution by fixing the rifle or by having a qualified gunsmith fix it.
Link Posted: 9/15/2010 8:33:10 PM EDT
I'm trying to remember if an AK can fire out of battery normally. With the disconnector gone the gun should have hammer follow if the trigger stays depressed but does the bolt rotate closed before the cartridge is fired? Without the auto safety sear and bolt bounce reducer I wouldn't try it even without the legal penalties.
Link Posted: 9/16/2010 1:23:21 AM EDT
Originally Posted By AKengineer:
I'm trying to remember if an AK can fire out of battery normally. With the disconnector gone the gun should have hammer follow if the trigger stays depressed but does the bolt rotate closed before the cartridge is fired? Without the auto safety sear and bolt bounce reducer I wouldn't try it even without the legal penalties.


A friend of a friend () tried to take a zip tie and rig up his disco by tying it to one of the rivet pins so that as he pulled the trigger it would defeat the sear and he thought that would make it go FA, and then if the cops came after him, he could take some wire cutters and quickly snip the zip tie and destroy any evidence that he had attempted to make an illegal FA.

The only problem is that protrusion on the back of the carrier prevents the hammer from hitting the FP without the thing in full battery, and since the hammer spring is faster than the main spring... no bango. He actually tried it some time later (I was not around) and he said that he had to manually cycle it every time until he was finally convinced that he was an idiot and that it would not work.

I reminded him that there was a reason why AKs had a rate reducer installed after the original design... it needed one to prevent that exact problem.
Link Posted: 9/16/2010 4:56:15 AM EDT
Originally Posted By AKengineer:
I'm trying to remember if an AK can fire out of battery normally. With the disconnector gone the gun should have hammer follow if the trigger stays depressed but does the bolt rotate closed before the cartridge is fired?


The bolt should rotate before the hammer can depress the firing pin, but what should happen doesn't always.
What is commonly called the auto sear is actually a safety and an auto sear (which is why the PSL has it in original form even though it was never made as a select fire rifle). It prevents the hammer from falling until the bolt is nearly locked, thus preventing the rifle from firing OOB. BATF required the redesign, leaving only the tail to prevent an OOB dishage. Since that is only the secondary function of that feature (its primary function is to force the hammer back at the start of the unloading/loading cycle) it doesn't always work as intended.
For that reason, firing the rifle with a broken, missing or inoperable disconnector CAN be dangerous.
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