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Posted: 1/30/2006 5:54:27 PM EDT
What is the best way to clean after using corrosive ammunition? Hot soapy water is often referred to, but so is ammonia and windex.

I've come across a few articles online that state ammonia will not break down the salt residue, but that windex will...yet it seems the active ingredient in windex is ammoniam nitrate which to a layman like me means ammonia.

After reading some of this, I am not really sure what to think. I had been cleaning with 50/50 water/ammonia, but now wonder if thats the best way to do it.

Suggestions appreciated gentlemen.



Z
Link Posted: 1/30/2006 10:20:15 PM EDT
Z, Ammonia does not break down the corrosive salts, but it does clean out copper residue - as evidenced by the blue color left on your cleaning patches. To remove the corrosive salts ALL that is required is plain WATER. I clean the barrels on my bolt actions by flushing with hot water from the chamber end - I try to flush for at least 20 seconds - then I followup with normal cleaning procedures. Oh, the hot water flush also helps flush out some carbon buildup - plus a hot barrel dries out faster. I have researched this topis at length, too. Believe me - water is all you need to clean out the corrosive salts. That being said, you can stick to your 50/50 water/ammonia mix - that way you also clean out the copper residue, just make sure to perform regular cleaning afterwards because ammonia will have a corrosive effect on bare metal.
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 6:38:05 AM EDT
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 10:50:04 AM EDT
Maybe I'm not doing it right but I have'nt had any problem,I just use Hoppes and make sure I get all of the affected areas,I also do a follow up cleaning the next day.
Link Posted: 1/31/2006 7:04:20 PM EDT
Windex Ingredients from MSDS/Label:
Isopropanol 1-5%
2-Butoxyethanol 0.5-1.5%
Ethylene glycol n-hexyl ether 0.1-1.0%
Water 90-95%

That's the original formula as listed at the NIH household products database. None of the variants contain ammonia.

Link Posted: 2/1/2006 1:45:02 AM EDT

Originally Posted By JOHNO:
Maybe I'm not doing it right but I have'nt had any problem,I just use Hoppes and make sure I get all of the affected areas,I also do a follow up cleaning the next day.



i have read and been told by Hopps that Hopps #9 was designed to clean guns that shoot corrosive ammo. i was told it also works for black powder so i think you are good to go.
Link Posted: 2/1/2006 8:27:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/1/2006 8:30:52 PM EDT by 0351]
Hot soapy water (any soap will do).

Scrub/swab barrel and bolt. Use hairdrier if in a moist climate or just air dry in dry climate (CO).

After that, clean like any other barrel, lube and lock up.


0351
Link Posted: 2/3/2006 6:08:44 AM EDT
Go to Wal-mart and get from these depts.

Sporting goods dept.
A pump spray bottle of Break-Free CLP www.break-free.com/
A 30cal and a 20 gauge bore brushes

Automotive dept.
A can of brake parts cleaner
A set of brushes or brush with brass or steel brissles. like this
www.woodcarvingstore.com/RotaryToolAccessories/CleaningBrushes.asp

Housewares dept.
roll of paper towels

Drug dept.
A new tooth brush.

When you get home swap out your new tooth brush for your old one.Spray down all the parts of your rifle with CLP and let it sit for 15 minuites. Use your old tooth brush to scrub the inside of the receiver and parts. Use the brass/steel brush on the gas piston. It will take several applications of CLP and scrubbing to get heavy amounts of carbon off the gas piston. A wire wheel in a electric drill can be used to cut down on the amount of scrubbing needed. Use the 30cal brush on the bore and the 20 gauge brush on the gas tube/gas block. Once clean put 4 paper towels in the bottom of the bag you brought the stuff home from Wal-mart in. Hold the parts over the bag and use the brake parts cleaner to rinse everything off. Brake parts cleaner removes everything and leaves no residue. Spray a 4"x4" piece of rag and one patch with CLP. Rub the rag on every part inside and out to lube/protect it and run the patch through the bore. Put the rag and patch in a zip lock bag to use the next time you clean your rifle. Make sure to wipe the gas piston and the inside of the gas tube and gas block. The CLP will get into the pores of the metal and not let the carbon stick tight. So the next time you clean your rifle the brass/steel brissle brush will not be needed only the tooth brush. Take the bag with the paper towels which have absorbed all the brake parts cleaner and dirt outside or in the garage to let the bpc evaporate then throw it away.
Link Posted: 2/6/2006 3:09:04 PM EDT
Hoppes #9. All you'll need. It was designed almost 80 yrs ago to dislove corrosive salts. I use it and nothing else to clean black powder revolvers and C&R rifles that I shoot corrosive surplus ammo in. (And nothing is more corrosive than black powder and surplus Russian 7.62x54r ammo). Please don't tell me otherwise. I've been using it since the 70's and no firearm ever corroded the barrel, bolt, or gas system.

Next best thing is Sweets, especially for copper jacketed ammo. But nothing smells as good as Hoppes.

HTH
Link Posted: 2/6/2006 7:09:11 PM EDT
Hoppes #9 it is..........



It keeps coming up. Gotta think there is something to it.
Link Posted: 2/6/2006 7:16:43 PM EDT
Who has a link to that great post Old Painless did about shooting and cleaning his Mauser?

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