If you can make chocolate milk, I'm confidant that you can handle this project.
The key here is surface prep.The wood must be CLEAN BARE and all scratch marks must be gone. Scratches from sanding that is.
Zipstrip. another Keystone to prep. I was wrong in my earlier post, its just
zipstrip original formula. Just keep it on until the old finish starts to bubble. Scrape it off and put another coat on...etc etc... I also used a scrap piece of very thin brass to scrape with. Try using a plastic putty knife and it will melt! A steel putty knife will probably gouge the wood too. Havent tried marine jelly yet but that will probably work too
www.starbronze.com/720.htmlStrip the wood, don't bathe it in bleach. No need.
Minwax makes a wonderful product. Its called POLYSHADES Get the Gloss Can!! [they make two diff. types]
www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=25226-24-61480&lpage=none hope that link works.
With this product, Stain and Polyurethane is applied in one step. So there is no need to take days staining, and then days more applying the poly. My application consists of a sponge brush, thats it. I dont try and save them though, the poly gums 'em up pretty bad, so plan on paying .50 cents for each coat you want.
Cheese cloth or Tack Cloth as you know removes dust very well, a must before any finish is applied.
As I said before, the finish is a polyurethane. It is also, to the best of my knowledge, water based.
I only do two coats, but you can put as many as you want on. With the darker colors, two will be a must.
The water look is just the way the minwax looks. Its great stuff!