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Posted: 3/26/2006 9:56:08 AM EDT
I imagine there will be a good reason, but why not press the barrel back in to the front trunion, seat that assembly in the receiver, then apply the front rivets knowing that they'll flatten out against the barrel?

Worried about deforming the barrel? That it wouldn't be strong enough?

As an alternative, I have the following ready: I found a steel tool in my gradfather's shop (some kind of reamer) that has a shank just a smidge smaller than the barrel (.865 inch vs. .9 inch) I figure I'll set the trunion in the receiver, insert the rivets in both sides, set the assembly on a steel plate with rivet divets drilled in all three positions, and drive down the rivets from the top with a punch with a rounded divet in it. So all my force will be driving the rivets against the reamer shank which I can wiggle out when it's tight and then grind down the extra to accomodate the barrel.

Any problems? (and still curious, why not just drive rivets against the barrel?)
Link Posted: 3/26/2006 10:20:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/26/2006 10:21:29 AM EDT by me223]
Link Posted: 3/26/2006 1:36:00 PM EDT
Mike, thanks for the offer. I might take you up on that, if only to see exactly how to fashion my bolt cutters into a proper set of rivet squeezers. I'll PM you tomorrow or Tuesday.
Link Posted: 3/26/2006 5:19:52 PM EDT
I've heard of several people doing it that way... I'm going to try it on my build. Will let you know how it goes.
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 10:35:47 AM EDT
AGI uses that method on their build video. So being that they instruct that method I would hope they did some testing to determine it was a viable method. They put the trunion in and use a bucking bar to crush one rivet and then press the barrel in. After that they take the remaining rivets and slot the end with a dremel to promote it's spreading out against the barrel. They then use a punch tool they made with a rivet shaped concave front portion to drive the rivets in place. Personally I would go with the Plinker method or use some modified bolt cutters.
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 10:56:24 AM EDT
"Plinker method?"
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 1:14:39 PM EDT
i think he means using a plinker's rivet jig
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 4:00:22 PM EDT
i just demilled one of my early builds where i used the barrel as a bucking bar. i will never do it again. the squish did not look proper. it's just not he same.
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 5:30:08 AM EDT
Did not look proper, or was not holding the rivet in place? As long as they aren't coming out I dont care what they look like where they will never be seen. Did they look like they would stay in?

Link Posted: 3/28/2006 12:34:19 PM EDT

Originally Posted By HillbillyAL:
i just demilled one of my early builds where i used the barrel as a bucking bar. i will never do it again. the squish did not look proper. it's just not he same.



I just finished a Romy G that way it looks great! used a Pexto Rivet set, but heck you could make your own.
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 12:46:47 PM EDT
I have done all of my rivet builds that way and have never had a problem.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 5:58:33 PM EDT
I just tried to drill out the rivets with barrel in place and had some problems:

1) Can't tell when I'm through the rivet and into the barrel. I think I actually drilled into the barrel a little bit in one hole judging by the depth. Argh!! I am pissed. I used a hand drill and could feel no difference in resistance.

2) How in the world do you clear out the rivet when you drill into it? Do you just leave it there and hammer the new one in? Where can it possibly expand to??
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 6:14:44 PM EDT

Originally Posted By mykrowyre:
I just tried to drill out the rivets with barrel in place and had some problems:

1) Can't tell when I'm through the rivet and into the barrel. I think I actually drilled into the barrel a little bit in one hole judging by the depth. Argh!! I am pissed. I used a hand drill and could feel no difference in resistance.

2) How in the world do you clear out the rivet when you drill into it? Do you just leave it there and hammer the new one in? Where can it possibly expand to??



Yet another reason to pull the barrel.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 3:40:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/30/2006 6:14:55 AM EDT by mykrowyre]
Yep.. but I'm waiting to hear the reply from these non-pullers. Lets hear it guys. I drilled and drilled and never hit a gap... I think i went right into the barrel but I can't tell. The walls of the hole is continuous and there is no difference in metal color, etc. The depth is what makes me think I hit barrel.

Link Posted: 3/31/2006 9:40:09 AM EDT
A piece of colored tape wrapped around the drill bit at the appropriate depth will act as a guide. Drill until the edge of the tape contacts the outer surface of the trunion and STOP.
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 11:16:14 AM EDT
Then what? You have a hole and no space for a rivet to mushroom out to when you press it in.
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 4:39:25 PM EDT

Originally Posted By mykrowyre:
Then what? You have a hole and no space for a rivet to mushroom out to when you press it in.



Drilling the rivet is just the first step in removing the rivet completely. I think most are drilling the center out, then knocking the remains out afterwards.
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 5:06:14 PM EDT
Right, but how? It's in the trunion.
Link Posted: 4/1/2006 3:47:49 AM EDT

Originally Posted By mykrowyre:
Right, but how? It's in the trunion.



Drill the rivet out completely, use a small ball mill attached to your Dremel open up the base of the hole a bit, this will allow the rivet to swell and it WILL not come out. This Tip from Chris, it worked great!
Link Posted: 4/1/2006 7:50:35 AM EDT
Seems like it would work fine, but wouldn't a softer rivet work better?? Any one know how to soften up a rivet, heat it or what?????????????
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