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Posted: 3/15/2006 7:43:13 AM EDT
[#1]
It IS gone????
#10 x 1/4in with a #21 drill bit...Or a #8 x 1/4in with a 27 drill bit #8 seems closer to the original rivet head size U-Drive |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 7:44:44 AM EDT
[#2]
those are the sizes to use if you are drilling into the old rivets. What size if you have already punched out the rivets?
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Posted: 3/15/2006 3:00:02 PM EDT
[#3]
If that link was still there...I would tell you...But then again you would not be asking.
Just going off from what I rember.... ANYBODY know why it was yanked????? |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 3:28:10 PM EDT
[#4]
I asked for it to be locked and trashed. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 3:53:41 PM EDT
[#5]
What was the issue with???
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Posted: 3/15/2006 4:39:01 PM EDT
[#6]
why the hell would you do that? ....that thing was useful 
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Posted: 3/15/2006 4:53:36 PM EDT
[#7]
yeah why trashed. it had some useful info.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 5:01:49 PM EDT
[#8]
I was tired of the character assassination that came with authoring that thread. Sorry. Maybe you could ask Me223 to glean the useful information from the thread and repost it without using my name in any way shape or form. ETA Link to drive screw thread. It isn't trashed, but it is locked and on it's way to hell. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:21:59 PM EDT
[#9]
sorry to hear that dale. I agree that the post did contain many people asking the same questions over and over and not reading the post. Sorry if you had to put up with anything for starting it. I has been very usefull and very handy and full of very good info. Atleast the idea will not die. Not that it matters but i give you a big thumbs up for it!
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Posted: 3/15/2006 6:24:25 PM EDT
[#10]
BIG PLUS 1 |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 7:00:14 PM EDT
[#11]
Yeah, way to go man! It gave my the kick I needed to try my first AK build (still getting parts)
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Posted: 3/16/2006 5:31:05 AM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 3/16/2006 5:45:47 AM EDT
[#13]
It wasn't like a crusade for me, so it wasn't really a conviction. I was just trying to get as many people into building as feasible. If you want to repost the information in my post Rev, feel free. I just figured that this is the internet, and there is no reason in hell that something as unimportant as the internet should cause me any type of stress. |
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Posted: 3/16/2006 5:48:47 AM EDT
[#14]
I agree you should just leave it up locked. It's a great thread.
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Posted: 3/16/2006 6:07:19 AM EDT
[#15]
If Mike would pare it down to just the information and tack/lock it that would be fine with me. |
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Posted: 3/16/2006 9:18:45 AM EDT
[#16]
Dale you brought a great method to light and yes lets just get the actual useful info posted and locked under the BIY folder.
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Posted: 3/16/2006 1:17:41 PM EDT
[#17]
I'm building a Romy kit using udrives and taking pics every step of the way . I want to do a short tutorial on how this is done and shut the naysayers the hell up . the nay sayers are people that havent even tried this type of build , and think there experts on builing everything . udrive screw the nay sayers
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Posted: 3/16/2006 1:34:42 PM EDT
[#18]
hey killer. Did you have the rivets from the front and rear trunion already removed or did you just grind them flush and drill the appropriate holes for the drive screws? All my kits are completly demilled and all rivets removed so i am trying to figure out what size drive scres i need for that.
Thanks. jimmy BTW when your done maybe we can tack and lock that! |
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Posted: 3/16/2006 1:44:54 PM EDT
[#19]
I am sure you could do a fine tutorial killer. Your photo skills are very good and you already have a fine drive screw build under your belt.
Jimmy_hat01, you don't have to remove the rivets, just grind them flush with the trunnion and drill the appropriate size holes for your drive screws. |
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Posted: 3/16/2006 1:47:57 PM EDT
[#20]
yeah i know. The thing is i have already demilled all my kits.
 Now as i am looking at the assembly i am trying to decide is a drive screw is still even an option once you have removed all your rivets and pulled your barrel and such.jimmy |
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Posted: 3/16/2006 1:50:09 PM EDT
[#21]
You can use the bigger drive screws that are available in the EE. I think sawgunner has 2 different sizes for those who removed their rivets and those who didn't. killerone might also have both sizes. |
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Posted: 3/16/2006 1:52:45 PM EDT
[#22]
ah, you must be talking about the number 10s then. FOr the price per 100 ill just buy a box of each.
thanks dale. Once again your plum full of info!  jimmy |
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Posted: 3/16/2006 3:58:30 PM EDT
[#23]
that exactly right in the tutorial I plan to address this question. if the rivets are already remove you need to go to the next size up . don't worry guys most question you have I have already asked. some people say that its not safe but where I live local farmers use them all the time, this what convinced me that these actually work.
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Posted: 3/16/2006 11:42:04 PM EDT
[#24]
i have not heard this story over here so i will repeat it. A guy used TOOTHPICKs to hold the trunions on It held together for 3 shoots. The forces on these points is not as bad as people make them out to be. Alot of folks have sticks up there butts. Killer i look forward to your tutorial and pics. I agree that once it is pinned it shoudl also be locked unless info is left out and needs to be added about specific things. I have noticed a trend among people to not want to read past the first page and to just repost questions that have been asked. Keep up the good work
jimmy |
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Posted: 3/17/2006 12:32:19 AM EDT
[#25]
Dale,
Thats a damn shame that someone gave you grief over the U-drive thread. I, and I think others, have decided on starting a build after reading your thread and seeing an alternative to the rivets and associated tools issue. I built my ARs cause I basically had all the tools, didn't have to buy, rent, or borrow tools for assembly. The U-Drive build allows for the same flexability in the AK platform I second the idea of trimming down the original thread and posting/locking it in the DIY as a FYI thread. I think I will see if I can condense it and submit it to the DIY moderator. No Expert |
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Posted: 3/17/2006 4:51:33 AM EDT
[#26]
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Posted: 3/17/2006 6:31:56 AM EDT
[#27]
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Posted: 3/18/2006 9:33:48 PM EDT
[#28]
just posted a udrive how to what do you think.
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Posted: 3/19/2006 4:11:02 AM EDT
[#29]
nice killer, thanks. Please get me223 to lock that quick before it is myered in the problems that the last thread by dale had. Also coudl you clear up the little debate on your like. The drill bit for needed for #8 and drill bit for #10 ( know what they are from teh mccaster.com, or what ever that site was, ) Also coudl you post which ones we should buy, the zinc plated steel vs stainless steel. Also what length in particular one should buy. I know that makeing this info nice and easy to obtain will cut into your sales
 but the clarification woudl help be the end all reference for what we want that thread to be. Thanks again and keep up the good work.jimmy |
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Posted: 3/19/2006 10:09:11 AM EDT
[#30]
my neabour is building a few aks and he got the stainless ones. they dont seem to be much diffrent other then not being magnetic. anyone know if it really makes all that much diffrence (also locktited mine in).
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Posted: 3/19/2006 8:47:28 PM EDT
[#31]
About the only big difference in stainless versus the zinc U-Drives is that the stainless will not take to parkerizing if that is your choice of finish or finish base start.
DK |
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Posted: 3/20/2006 12:57:15 AM EDT
[#32]
ah ok thats fine i plan on duracoating the rifle black oxide.
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Posted: 3/21/2006 8:06:48 PM EDT
[#33]
Hey Dale. I think you made 100 friends for every enemy with your U drive thread. You are one of the good guys. IMNSHO
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Posted: 3/22/2006 6:16:25 AM EDT
[#34]
I posted this same thread in the gunsnet BIY forums and got totally bashed some called me a con artist becuase I rivet the magwell area and use the udrives in the rest of the trunion leading people to beleive that the whole gun is riveted and selling to unsuspecting buyers, I think if your selling your home made guns you have more to worry about than rivet jos
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