Campy and everyone,
Are there any disadvantages to using the screw method as long as you use high temp lock-tite? I've seen people saying how screwing the receiver is just doing it halfassed but I dont see why. Yes, you lose a little of the visual appeal but not much. Then they argue that the soviets would have used screws if they were better, well rivits are obviously better if you are doing high production. But if you only intend to make one or two rifles your not worried about production time and the cost difference between screws and rivits.
Also since I'm planning on screw my receiver any advice or tips from those who have already done this. Thanks.
If you check out the boards, you see differing opinions on riveting vs screwing (it's hard to type that without grinnin'!).
Anyhow, I've done a good bit of homework on this and will be "screwing" my next couple of AK builds. Currently have the parts for (3) projects lined up (an RPK, a Bulgarian '74, and an AK-104 clone) - gonna screw 'em all!
Campy's right, be sure to use fine threaded, high quality screws, torque 'em down well, and use JB Weld on the threads. High Temp Loc-Tite would be OK, but I've used JB Weld on a LOT of stuff and it holds up well for something like this. There's one thing that will mess up JB Weld - grease and oil. Be sure that you degrease the threads well before relying on JB to stick - it won't if the parts are oily.
Campy - on the RPK build, I looked into VEPR receivers, KVAR RPK kits, etc. and just can't bring myself to put that kind of money into it. I got VERY lucky and picked up the last of the kits that XCALIBER had. Mine had a broken "ear" on the front sight, but the bore is VG or better! I'll let you know how it goes!
Thanks to all and Good Luck Romack on your build ~ post pictures!
I've been doing my homework on this build. I've never built an AK but I've converted my romak 991 to high cap and plus I've got about 4 yrs of being a machinist under my belt. (Dad owns a machine shop) I've got about 3/4 inch stack of paper of stuff I've download from the forums and printed off to use as referance. I'm jumping head first into this project, hoping it will turn out good but if not then atleast its a learning experience. I'm planning on making my receiver and lower rails. Screwing the receiver. Creating a custom barrel extension. (AMD BUILD) Possibly some wood replacement pistol grips to help the parts count.
I've got a few questions for the build though, I'm not to excited about pressing out the barrel so I was thinking about carefully drilling the rivits out, start the tap with a normal tap, then get a used tap and grind the end so I can use it to create threads all the way to the end of the hole. Any comments on this idea?
Also I will be in need of headspacing gauges, wheres the best place to buy these. That or an idea poped in my head. Does anyone have a good mic where they could accurately get me the dimensions off the go no/go gauges? It would be a heck of a lot cheap if I could just produce these accurately in my lathe. Although I do realize the risk of receiving bad dimensions and/or machining these wrong to give me a false sense of security and the gun going boom.
Have the 4130 sheet, waiting for the parts kit, going home tomorrow to make the bending jig. :)
I recently built a "screw together" AK from a KVAR Bulgie kit and a OOW receiver. Had it parked and painted by Troy at InRange. If I can help with any questions or pics of my build let me know.
I couldn't have done it with out the help of other board members here. I think I spent more time here at the keyboard asking questions than out at the workbench!!!LOL!!!
Here's the fruit of my labor:
Your on the right track with drilling out the rivets. I first filed/grinded down the rivet heads exsposing the rivet shanks.
Next I center punched the shank and drilled down with a smaller dia drill bit paying attention not to drill into the barrel.
I increased the drill bit size untill the upset head of the rivet spun free between the barrel and trunnion. Do not go oversize on the bits and enlarge the trunnion rivet hole or elongate the hole or you will have to go with a larger tap and screws which could detract from the looks of the finished rifle.
Once all rivets are spinning free and the old receiver was removed I sharpened the tip of a Craftsman 3/32 pin punch into the shape of a chisel. I used this make shift chisel to chop up the remains of the rivet laying between the trunnion and barrel.
Next I magnatized a pick and lifted out the pieces of rivet.
As far as tapping the holes I did exactly as you stated. Started with a standard tap and went down as far as I could. I then sanded down the taps tip forming my own bottoming tap which I used to then finish tapping the trunnion.
As far as head spacing goes, I had Troy check mine just to play it safe, even though the Bulgie kits were supposed to be unissued/demilled rifles. It may be worth your while to also send your rifle out to have the headspacing checked.
Hope this info has helped.
I've got about 2500 rds. on my screwed together 74 bulgy kit. Zero problems with the that type of assembly so far. Good luck.
I screwed together a I/O romanion kit.
I checked the headspace and a no-go or GO would not go but a live round would go.
I took it to the range.
Fire 1 live round, check and it looked good.
Loaded a 75 chinese round up, bump fired all 75 rounds (burst of 12, wait 30 seconds)
I did this until I fired 500 rounds. Took me a afternoon.
Let me tell the barrel got hot and the oil sweated out of the the handguards.
after 45 mins the barrel was cool enough to play with.
I could BARELY insert the go gauge. It was tight. The NO-GO would not go and the live round would go.
I did the same trick with my polish rivet this past weekend. The difference is the go would barely go to start with and would go easy after.
Either way, screw or rivet.
I sold my screw together for $300