OP - seems like you are looking for the best products for your AR.....

Let me give you a little research to do...  Google the following

Lubriplate FMO-350-AW Oil

Lubriplate SFO-0 Grease

Because Lubriplate SFL-0 was originally designed for lubricating food manufacturing machines, it's non-toxic, odorless and will not stain clothing. Similar to other Lubriplate products, SFL-0 is not susceptible to temperature fluctuations and is water resistant. Great for use on handguns or rifles. Can be applied using a brush, your fingers or a 12cc syringe. Apply a light coat in accordance with the maintenance instructions found in your firearm owner's manual. The neat thing about this grease is that it is aluminum base so it does not absorb moisture like the lithium greases can.

This is an oil designed with very high boundary protection and very high corrosion resistance -
especially in the presence of acids, alkalis, and moisture.

OP - If you will IM me your address I will send you a bottle of oil and some grease to try....I think that you will agree it is the slickest stuff second only to goose shit on a sidewalk.

LOL

Red

double tap....

LOL

Red

What the hell has happened in here?

OP- I hope this is some elaborate troll you have going on here but Ill entertain it for a moment. I used to use MPro7 but switched to Slip2000 oil and grease. Its simple and even I probably over did it. Use the MPro7 cleaner to wipe off the current oil on the BCG, trigger, rails, charging handle, etc. No need to completely strip the gun apart like you are going for some sort of micro clean. Add Slip 2000. Its really that easy

I clean way more than some here and do not subscribe to the "never clean it just squirt more oil on it" view that infests this site. That said, the OP is so far out in left field, he's not even in the field any more. He's wandering lost in the woods.

OP stop over thinking this. Even the military with their over cleaning of weapons doesn't get this silly.

It's your rifle and you can do as you please but this is getting absurd.

Don't lube the buffer spring. It's meant to be put in dry. Some oil will end up on the spring from shooting. Just wipe it off. Take a cloth and work it down inside the tube with a cleaning rod to wipe out the oil.

That's all you need to do for that.

Don't burn chlorinated brake cleaner. It will kill you.

This "product specialist" you keep referring to is an idiot.

Removing an ejector is easy....with a hammer and the right size punch. The OP's description of how he removed it makes my head hurt.

This wasn't a matter of cleaning a dirty weapon, but soaking the parts in a new lube to remove remnants of old lube additives which was supposedly going to show up big time.

Didnt notice much additional stuff on top as expected although the carrier is still soaking for night #2 now due to being busy all day. Got some stubborn carbon out of some nooks and crannies

. Again, this was solely to soak this lube into the steel as it's advertised to do and leave a permanent sheen on it as if I had never used any other products as this product is spoken upon as if it's flawless (even if it's partly a gimmick on the Product guys behalf, as I haven't noticed any gunky Teflon like I was expecting to find and the lube seems to wipe off very easily to a dry, yet cloudy looking surface, even though prior to wiping it is ultra slick and messy as hell, like Vegetable Oil honestly, I swear it's the main ingredient, same color and all! Lol)

They say it leaves a barrier or invisible sheen behind but I plan to Use the EWL30 which is thicker for the vital (contact/wear area) parts in which some people prefer grease, and just leave a light NEW coating of this thin EWL on the rest which doesn't really make any contact.

Also, got a New Ejector/Spring/Rolling as all I wanted was a rolling inserted and my Smith is awesome and did it all for free.

I didn't have time today to add the EWL 30 weight so threw it back into the oily bag and added a few squirts (not drops) and figure maybe some of that lube can soak into the Ejector pocket and spring, now that their is no carbon or old lube to mix with in there as I initially feared due to Slip's hype man and his scare tactics.

This BS is a Damage Industries- Chrome Silicon Buffer Spring which are prone to rusting if not coated (opposed to stainless ones) so I figured the soak could only help, plus some thicker lube on it when reassembled.

You said not to lube the Buffer Spring, but many grease them, and if the 30 weight lube is thick enough I plan to coat it to keep it quiet and smooth.
Are you saying it's messy?

Although may just buy some SLIP Grease for my Charging handle, Carrier rails, etc, being this all started as I wanted to get some EWG as many recommended it for BCG rails, CH, and Spring as I had just applied Aseroshell 6 which is apparently too thick, but when I called SLIP, I got suckered into EWL30 due to its "Staying Power- which is as slick as grease without the messy clean-up which is truly incredible" he says so I'm basically hoping this will be a step above normal lube but not nearly as thick as grease but close to it, their is a 50 weight and then the EWG Grease so it won't be, but just hope it'll make my Charging handle and BCG rail points nearly as slick as Grease.

The Rep was a pistol guy himself, that is why I took all of these tedious questions to this thread as he suggested the 30 weight even on the firing pin, and although if it has "staying power" due ti being sticky/tacky then hell no to that!

The ejector issue was just a matter of me not having the right tool, and improvising with a small diameter PC screwdriver but not depressing the Ejector.

All is well now though. Will reassemble later today and add the EWL30 on either everything, or just wear points depending how thick/sticky it is and after shooting eventually and cleaning up, will see if this was worth the time and extra lube, as it was only a 15 min job to douse lube on to parts in small plastic bags, but wasn't cheap.

Didn't you say you use SLIP or was it a 1 time thing?
Is it fine to use in the bore for rust prevention in storage? As all of my rifles currently have CLP in the bores via Boresnake, so hadn't even thought if I wanted to switch over or not. Slipped my mind completely.

Not sure of it's Rust prevention properties VS CLP though....

Hi Red,

Thanks for the info, and especially the offer, but after the thorough mess I just did and testing to follow, I may have to take you up on that offer later.

Sounds like a great lube though.

I really appreciate it man!

-T

My question is, after all of this elaborate process is over with, are you going to actually... shoot the gun? Will this entire process start all over again once you have some carbon on it? I do want to make clear that I in no way actually think any of this is required, lol. I wouldn't be surprised if that EWL rep is sitting around the watercooler laughing with his buddies about this.

"I've got this guy doing the most convoluted cleaning process ever; he's been soaking all his parts for two days now."
"No way!"
"I told him if he doesn't soak every last tiny part, the old lube is going to turn into glue and his gun won't work!"
"Oh, Joe... you're bad!"

Seriously, weapons lubrication doesn't require this much thought. Pretty much every single "gun specific" lubricant out there is just something else repackaged anyway. Very few of the companies selling "weapons lube" actually make the stuff themselves. All that matters is that you pick a lubricant that meets the temp range and has the proper viscosity for your environment. Almost everything else is just fluff to sell products. Some might be slightly better than others, but they generally all work. Tons of competitive shooters use good ol' motor oil, ATF or a mixture of the two. The Army Marksmanship Unit uses Mobil 1. Just about any motor oil, ATF, mixture of the two, bearing grease or "weapons lube" will do the job. Hell, most people could have their favorite "Super Extreme Tactical Weapons System Platform Slip n' Slide 10000" lube swapped with a bottle of canola oil from the grocery store, and they'd never know the difference

Nothing I can say will convince you. Do whatever you want to. It's your rifle.

I’m telling you, this is the best troll thread I’ve seen in a bit. But then I’m not out looking for them. And usually they’re in GD.

The SLIP Product Specialist is killing it around the office.

No, this was just to rid the old remnants as I was told would help but now seeing their wasn't this glue like build up I expected.

My plan after shooting was always going to be just to clean and re-lube, this process was a one time time to purge everything from the past being he made it as if yhe Teflon would rise and bead up basically.

I will say in the plastic bags the oil is beaded up, at least the one that the Carrier was in, opposed to being as running.

As we speak, I'm cleaning the excess off and applying the 30 weight (EWL30).

I just checked in here while doing it to see what Colt556 had to say about thicker lube on the buffer spring, being grease is fin apparently. I wiped the spring and it still has a slick sheen as advertise, which is cool being Chrome Silicon is prone to rusting.

Although I'm about to see if the 30 weight is thick enough to stick to the rail contact points of the BCG.

Is the rule of thumb either a dry buffer spring, or a greased one?

Is this to not attract carbon in the tube if it's wet from lube, or just personal preference?

Seems me explaining what was already in progress and my reasoning cannot be looked past and just speak on going forward by some.

I thank you for your advice though, and understandably, different strokes for different folks.

And the Product Specialist was a pistol guy so I'm not sure if he even knows all of the internals of an AR after so e thought. He said he does, but the company is in CA so his AR knowledge would root back to a competition shooter he knows which told him this or that etc etc.

Submitted that last one late, I'm done now.

The EWL30 is like M-Pro 7 thickness wise and although not as runny as the regular EWL, it doesn't have the sticking power I expected, being they are are very runny to begin with and ultra slick.

Coating everything except the firing pin with the 30 after wiping the normal EWL 90% off (although the rear of the BCG isn't very wet, although I'm sure it'll become that way on it's own).

Very smooth charging. Not as thick as grease on Charging handle so it doesn't have that gliding feeling where you can't feel what it's sliding against, but it's just as slick so I'm fine with it!

Charged it normal, sideways, and upside down to get the rails coated so it will thin out and stay on them, and later tonight if any more seems to be running into the Buffer area, I'll remove the spring and wipe the EWL 30 off as the tube will likely be coated.

On my other AR, I will soak for maybe 30 mins just to loosen Carbon, and will not remove the small parts as the Extractor Pin is so slick from this lube that I can push the tip by finger to make it flush on each side.

Much slicker than M-Pro7 so I'm happy for now. Feels like damn Vegetable Oil.

I did find some goopy spots on the BCG which may very well have been Teflon or Petro from old lube, as it stood apart but nothing major. I just wanted a thorough cleaning.


Experiment OVER!

Dude you did way over thinking here.
Degrease the parts either a product like gunscrubber or Brakleen. Keep these away from plastic or the rubber bumper under the extractor spring.
You can even dump the metal parts in a pan of Mineral Spirits from the paint dept. of your local home store.
Take the parts out let dry or blast with compress air.
The just lube with Slip Ewl.
Parts like the Bore, Bolt tail, etc. don't have to be spotless

I don’t like slip’s cleaner personally.

I just disassemble, spray everything with CLP, run some carbon killer down the bore, wipe everything down, relube with EWL, and reassemble.  I am probably doing it wrong o

I kinda agree with this.

Slip's cleaner was citrus based last time I used it...as in it will rust metal.

You can't clean moving parts with something like that unless you can get it all off...and you can't get it out of every spring and crack.

I went to MPro 7's cleaner...as it is non toxic and won't rust.

In the end, none of it matters...

I clean with different products than you do but this is just fine and will keep an AR running just fine.

Op , I have shot , and cleaned m16 - ar15 rifles for over thirty years . I have shot barrels to the point that there were bare spots in the rifleing.  You are waaaaaaay to OCD about this seriously , you need to get back on your meds , God forbid you get a scratch on your gun and totally lose what's left of your mind !

This ain't rocket science brother !!

Holy dog shit OP

If only the OP would have bought an Anderson rifle with the RF85 all this could have been avoided

This.  One of my best friends has a registered M16 lower and god knows how many rounds it's had through it.  The whole while, it's been mixed and matched lubes, run until the carbon is oozing out looking like cake batter and it chokes, the suppressor is practically carbon clogged/welded to the barrel, etc.

That said, literally just wipe the crud off, pour whatever lube is handy on it, and away it goes again.  Getting a 'perfectly clean' surface isn't going to matter after 10 rounds.

Personally, I give my stuff a wipe down, occasionally a bore snake (unless I'm prepping for shooting groups, then the bore gets punched) and lubed with MP7 or Triflo.  But light oils are best in cold weather up here in AK.

Agreed 100% ^^^^^

More Drama

https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Removed-Flash-Hider-WTF-HAPPENDED-PICS-/118-732601/?r=-1&page=1&anc=7760175#i7760175

OP has issues !

Oh, good lord! I thought I recognized that screenname!

Any bets this guy still lives at home , and drives a panel truck ??

Jesus crappin christ, you are WAY overthinking this. Squirt the slip at it and be done. The BS you've been talked into will make no difference.

FYI, the slip30 is just light grease and oil. It separates in the bottle and will separate on your AR.