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Posted: 5/20/2017 5:48:32 PM EDT
[#1]
I use a fine brass wire wheel on my bench grinder to remove the carbon that does not come off in my ultrasonic cleaner. Very fast and no wear on the bolt tail at all. Also ScotchBrite pads will work in the field in a pinch.
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Posted: 5/20/2017 6:25:18 PM EDT
[#2]
I've just always used a brass/bronze bore brush...comes right off.
I've use brake cleaner and wood manicure sticks for chipping away the carbon inside the BCG. |
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Posted: 5/20/2017 6:38:33 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use a fine brass wire wheel on my bench grinder to remove the carbon that does not come off in my ultrasonic cleaner. Very fast and no wear on the bolt tail at all. Also ScotchBrite pads will work in the field in a pinch. |
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Posted: 5/20/2017 7:24:47 PM EDT
[#4]
Like a lot of others, carbon on the bolt tail doesn't bother me much but when I do want to clean it off I use and empty 5.56/223 casing. The radius on the mouth of the empty cartridge is a decent match for the radius on the bolt and it is a cheap and effective solution.
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Posted: 5/20/2017 8:05:00 PM EDT
[#5]
I was also leery of hard metal to metal scrapping, but I did start using a B.O.N.E. tool on both Nitride and NiB finished bolts. It removes a lot of carbon and I have not seen any deterioration of the finish. I don't press very hard and do presoak the parts in Kroil. I've also used a brass GI brush but it seems to take longer to clean.
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Posted: 5/21/2017 12:43:45 AM EDT
[#6]
I use a steel punch and never had any damage to finish or metal of the bolt. They are very hard. After many years of cleaning like this, the only wear(finish fading) is from the hot gas where it hits the bolt tail.
At the very least you can smash the mouth of a .223 case flat and use it as a scraper. |
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Posted: 5/22/2017 7:14:24 PM EDT
[#7]
Removing it doesn't help anything.
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Posted: 6/8/2017 3:46:59 PM EDT
[#8]
Is self-limiting, but can be easily removed with this:
https://www.botach.com/kley-zion-bolt-buddy-carbon-scraper/ |
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Posted: 6/8/2017 10:21:30 PM EDT
[#9]
I just use the tools that came with my Otis kit. Never had a problem and it gets every possible area on the bolt, carrier, and locking lugs. I also put a patch on the end of the wider scraper and get in the locking lugs area.
Back in the "day" when I first got my ar, I just used a nylon bore brush or a .22 bronze brush. Just rub the bolt tail, and it comes mostly off. |
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Posted: 6/11/2017 7:03:14 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Removing it doesn't help anything. |
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Posted: 6/12/2017 4:01:30 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
I've always been opposed to using metallic objects to scrape the bolt tail or anything else on a rifle. Today I had an idea that turned out great, but now I can no longer be opposed to ALL metallic objects, just the steel ones with sharp edges. :) Anyway, I was trying to clean the bolt tail after about 500 rounds over a long period, and I wasn't getting anywhere, so I picked up a large brass punch (3/16") and tried using the round edge in that rounded flange area behind the gas rings where the carbon builds up, and it worked great. You would expect to round off the edges of the flat-face punch doing this but its easy to re-shape the face of it, and its probably not a punch you use much on guns anyway. And, it does no damage to the bolt which is what I was after all along. Why are you wasting time on this? The next time you fire the weapon it will be fouled again? This has no impact on weapon function. (Neither does pipe cleaners in the gas tube, BTW). I start inspecting bolts at about 5k rounds for cracks at the cam pin hole. This is something you should be more concerned about. |
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Posted: 6/12/2017 4:03:25 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is the correct answer. Lube it and drive on. |
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Posted: 6/12/2017 4:05:19 PM EDT
[#13]
I should add: I use Slip2000 EWL on my SD guns...just because I bought too much of it and need to use it for something.
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Posted: 6/13/2017 8:21:45 AM EDT
[#14]
Removing the carbon does nothing for performance of the weapon. Keeping your gun oiled will pretty much assure you that it will fire.
Is cleaning every range trip excessive or unnecessary? This all depends on you. Some people despise cleaning so they make reasons not too. Some, like myself, enjoy cleaning guns so we do it frequently. You will have to decide what is best for your situation. Do you wash your car or truck? It won't perform better clean, so why wash it? Do you bath or take a shower? Why bother, you don't run faster or gain strength clean? |
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Posted: 6/13/2017 1:44:01 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you bath or take a shower? Why bother, you don't run faster or gain strength clean? |
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Posted: 6/13/2017 2:09:29 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Removing the carbon does nothing for performance of the weapon. Keeping your gun oiled will pretty much assure you that it will fire. Is cleaning every range trip excessive or unnecessary? This all depends on you. Some people despise cleaning so they make reasons not too. Some, like myself, enjoy cleaning guns so we do it frequently. You will have to decide what is best for your situation. Do you wash your car or truck? It won't perform better clean, so why wash it? Do you bath or take a shower? Why bother, you don't run faster or gain strength clean? I guess I just don't have as much time to waste as some people. |
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Posted: 6/13/2017 2:10:52 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Curious, do you think that's a relevant argument that will bolster your point? |
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Posted: 6/14/2017 8:54:26 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No, I don't wash my car. I have a very nice company supplied 2015 SUV and I may run it through a $5 automatic wash once a year (I've had the vehicle since it was new). Why? I'm going to drive it and its going to get dirty again. I don't give a crap what people think about me driving a dirty SUV. If anything, it makes the vehicle less attractive for vandals and thieves. I guess I just don't have as much time to waste as some people. I enjoy doing this and I think it is weird that people don't keep their stuff looking nice. Whatever makes you happy is what you should do. We have freedom here in America. That is what makes us great. We can do what we want. |
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Posted: 6/14/2017 11:29:21 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Removing it doesn't help anything. |
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Posted: 7/1/2017 5:05:26 AM EDT
[#20]
I picked up a CAT tool a few years back. Easiest way to clean a BCG. It has a special slot that the tail fits into and scrapes the carbon off with a few twists.
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Posted: 7/11/2017 7:10:45 PM EDT
[#21]
Dumbass question but I'm still gonna ask. Is it possible that too much carbon can build up and cause major issues?
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Posted: 7/11/2017 7:18:36 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dumbass question but I'm still gonna ask. Is it possible that too much carbon can build up and cause major issues? |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 12:27:57 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dumbass question but I'm still gonna ask. Is it possible that too much carbon can build up and cause major issues? I mean you can take anything to the extreme, 6,000 rounds with no lube or cleaning...yeah you may start seeing an issue. But add lube and it'll start running again. |
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Posted: 7/14/2017 1:47:16 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Removing the carbon does nothing for performance of the weapon. Keeping your gun oiled will pretty much assure you that it will fire. Is cleaning every range trip excessive or unnecessary? This all depends on you. Some people despise cleaning so they make reasons not too. Some, like myself, enjoy cleaning guns so we do it frequently. You will have to decide what is best for your situation. Do you wash your car or truck? It won't perform better clean, so why wash it? Not cleaning your vehicle can actually lead to negative things, depending upon where you live. Salt from the roads or air (near the ocean) can cause premature rust. Dirt can also damage the paint and cause issues in that way. Do you bath or take a shower? Why bother, you don't run faster or gain strength clean? Not bathing yourself/smelling awful is both disgusting and socially unacceptable. |
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Posted: 7/28/2017 3:39:55 AM EDT
[#25]
i use my teeth
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Posted: 7/28/2017 7:40:46 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Removing it doesn't help anything. |
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Posted: 7/28/2017 7:42:40 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Buy a 1 quart container of Royal Purple synthetic oil at WalMart. Every 1000rds add a little to your BCG and perhaps the inside of your upper. When you start experiencing functional failures add more oil. When the oil no longer solves the problem...consider cleaning the weapon. You can take this route in a training environment but if you rely on your weapon to possibly save your life, this is very bad advise. |
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Posted: 7/28/2017 7:44:40 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Doesn't hurt anything either. |
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Posted: 7/28/2017 7:46:25 AM EDT
[#29]
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Posted: 7/28/2017 7:46:58 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Removing the carbon does nothing for performance of the weapon. Keeping your gun oiled will pretty much assure you that it will fire. Is cleaning every range trip excessive or unnecessary? This all depends on you. Some people despise cleaning so they make reasons not too. Some, like myself, enjoy cleaning guns so we do it frequently. You will have to decide what is best for your situation. Do you wash your car or truck? It won't perform better clean, so why wash it? Do you bath or take a shower? Why bother, you don't run faster or gain strength clean? |
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Posted: 7/28/2017 7:49:27 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sure, if you think grinding metal on metal is harmless and dealing with the carbon/hazmat is fine with you and where you do it. Carbon and oil = hazmat? 
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Posted: 7/28/2017 8:10:52 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Correct. Doesn't hurt anything. Just don't remove it with a grinding stone and you won't hurt a thing. Carbon and oil = hazmat? Almost always, the guys wringing their hands over "dirty" weapons and "grinding" to remove carbon don't shoot a lot nor train. |
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Posted: 7/28/2017 8:52:58 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not sure how you're confused on whether or not burnt up petroleum byproducts mixed with carbon and residue from primers, etc isn't hazardous. "grinding stone" on precision machined surfaces? Let's think about that one a little. Almost always, the guys wringing their hands over "dirty" weapons and "grinding" to remove carbon don't shoot a lot nor train. 
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Posted: 7/29/2017 9:50:11 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Removing it doesn't help anything. I don't let my bolts get to where the tail looks like a charred stick, but that part is supposed to get gunky, and keeping it really clean just uses time and energy. |
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Posted: 7/29/2017 9:55:23 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you wash your car or truck? It won't perform better clean, so why wash it? Do you bath or take a shower? Why bother, you don't run faster or gain strength clean? I DO clean everything else pretty thoroughly. Gunk in the lower can cause failures. Gunk in the chamber can cause failures. Lack of lubrication anywhere can cause failures. But carbon on the bolt tail can't cause failures, so it's on a pretty low a priority for effort. I should point out that while I don't get OCD about my bolts' tails, I DO inspect the living crap out of everything when I clean a rifle. And I do a "quick and dirty" cleaning after every range trip: a couple of patches through the bore, wipe down the carrier, wipe inside the upper and lower, then lube appropriately. |
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Posted: 7/29/2017 11:27:36 PM EDT
[#36]
A piece of .308 brass has the perfect curvature to clean your bolt if you are obsessed with it.
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Posted: 7/31/2017 5:58:50 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not sure how you're confused on whether or not burnt up petroleum byproducts mixed with carbon and residue from primers, etc isn't hazardous. "grinding stone" on precision machined surfaces? Let's think about that one a little. Almost always, the guys wringing their hands over "dirty" weapons and "grinding" to remove carbon don't shoot a lot nor train. Go blow your nose after shooting and look at all the black crap you blow out. |
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Posted: 8/2/2017 12:15:36 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you breath while shooting? Do you breath while cleaning your rifle. Go blow your nose after shooting and look at all the black crap you blow out. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Not sure how you're confused on whether or not burnt up petroleum byproducts mixed with carbon and residue from primers, etc isn't hazardous. "grinding stone" on precision machined surfaces? Let's think about that one a little. Almost always, the guys wringing their hands over "dirty" weapons and "grinding" to remove carbon don't shoot a lot nor train. Go blow your nose after shooting and look at all the black crap you blow out. |
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Posted: 8/3/2017 3:07:03 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well, doubling or tripling it by soaking my flesh in it certainly helps that, doesn't it? In for a penny, in for a pound? I've been shot, I've got bullet fragments in me still, I don't like rubbing my flesh in the byproducts of shooting. However, if you rationalize it to yourself that way, by all means do so. Suck on a tailpipe too, it's the same logic. Sucking a tailpipe full of exhaust is not the same as wiping down the bolt tail. |
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Posted: 8/4/2017 3:24:51 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you wash your car or truck? It won't perform better clean, so why wash it? Do you bath or take a shower? Why bother, you don't run faster or gain strength clean? And taking a shower may not help me run faster, but stripping off pathogenic bacteria may improve my health and the change to my body odor profile as a result will certainly make it more likely that I will achieve success in mating. See: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0960076091902554 |
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Posted: 8/6/2017 2:24:09 AM EDT
[#41]
Just use mouth of empty brass to clean carbon off. Works great for me.
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Posted: 9/20/2017 5:29:26 PM EDT
[#42]
I scrape it away with an old double edge razor blade. Works great, doesn't damage the bolt at all.
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Posted: 9/28/2017 5:22:41 PM EDT
[#43]
FWIW I just attended an armorers course conducted by a very respected M16/AR15 company and was advised that bolt tail carbon is no big deal. OP I personally use a brass scraper tool I bought at Brownell's or maybe it was Midway USA. I hope this helps. FYI I have no connection to the companies mentioned I merely use some of their kit.
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Posted: 9/28/2017 5:33:35 PM EDT
[#44]
Cleaning the boat tail serves no purpose.
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Posted: 9/28/2017 7:37:17 PM EDT
[#45]
In my AR Armorer class, a classmate was so obsessed by getting the tail of his bolt clean that when he was done, it was shiny. Not just clean, but without its oxide finish.
As I've said earlier, "some" bolt tail carbon actually helps the gas system function more effectively. None of us is in some warped Boot Camp where we're expected to eat off the surfaces of our rifles; overdoing ANY weapon cleaning task is bad for the weapon. |
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Posted: 9/29/2017 5:46:16 PM EDT
[#46]
The gas is sealed between gas rings and where that tail end part is. The objective is that the gas traps in that area and causes the bolt to unlock. Having a rough surface area isn't really going to cause a function problem and if anything will help to seal the gas completely.
Now the chamber and lock lugs area pretty important to the function of the rifle. If you clean those area more, then you will be okay and prolong your firing session. I'm willing to bet that for folks who care about the bolt tail having baked carbon isn't going to like the fact that when you look where the fire pin goes in, you'll see a nice black ring there. If I know I'm going to shoot immediately later, I just make a good effort scrape and get most of it off. If I'm going to store it for a while, I do a every nook-and-cranny type cleaning. If I was in the military and they told me to clean my rifle, I'll spend the ENTIRE day cleaning my rifle. Don't ever do one job too well or you'll be on toilet duties. |
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Posted: 1/4/2018 4:25:04 PM EDT
[#47]
I just use a flat head every once and a while. Same thing on my suppressor mounts
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Posted: 1/10/2018 8:09:49 AM EDT
[#48]
I have an empty rifle shell caseing I use as a scraper. When I was in the infantry I would use the flat head on my multitool
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Posted: 1/14/2018 12:53:20 PM EDT
[#49]
I use a CAT M4 tool or an empty .45 acp casing by placing it over the tail and rock the edge of the casing to scrap. Green 3M scotch brite pads also work, but I feel it removes too much of the finish.
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Posted: 1/14/2018 11:11:42 PM EDT
[#50]
As with anything in life, going to extreme to do something will only work for the young.
Being super fit and muscular is a young man's game just as with being unfit and obese is a young man's game. Pay now, or pay later. Sure there are exceptions. You'll see super fit 90 year olds, and you'll see super fat 90 year olds. That's basic bell curve distribution. Some will make it, most won't. Moderation is the key to everything in life. Not cleaning your rifle will result in decay late in the barrel's life, just as with over cleaning the rifle will cause issues down the road. Just clean the rifle as best as you can. See carbon on the boat tail? Scrape it off a little. Doesn't have to be super shiny where you can see off it. If people are truly going to training with their AR as much as they say, then that is great. The way I see it if you can spend money on the ammo, classes, gas, food, clothes, etc that it takes to actually do these classes as much as you say, then buying a new barrel and bolt carrier group should and ought to be of no issue. If you invest in your AR and want to get say, 20 years out of it, then taking good, moderate care of it will get it up there. I see a lot of car examples. A lot of cars don't make it to 20 years. Those that do are taken care of, even at the very minimalist way. Even family firearm heirlooms. I've seen rifles inherited that cannot be used at all completely rusted and shut. I've seen some heirlooms that are very well taken care of. Sure there are unoriginal parts, but overall the base firearm is still there. |
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