Originally Posted By SkagSig40:
I can get my rust test going as soon as I find some cheep clean steel. Anyone have any ideas what I can test on that I can buy locally?

Originally Posted By Wayward_Texan:







home desperate... 16 ga 18" x 12" plate is cheap.



to the OP.. Nice job man.

CLP never let me down from jungles of Central America to the Desert... it just works.

Originally Posted By ucrt:
Anyone ever use Clenzoil? I saw the guys at Cabela's using it to wipe down their $10K+ guns down and have been trying it out. They claim they never get any rust on their guns with all of the handling. Heck, I saw a guy the other day eating from a bag of potato chips, put the bag down, open up a cabinet and pick up a $5K O/U. Made me shudder...

SoCalTrojan, I've got a little Clenzoil left in a bottle if you'd like to try it out I could send it to you? Just e-mail me your address.

Thanks.

Originally Posted By JakeATW:


I use it to wipe down all mine after cleaning.  Even my flintlocks.  I use other lubes on the internals.

Originally Posted By ucrt:

When I was in the Tool and Die trade we had large containers of Clenzoil at the plant.  We used it to keep the machine tables and other critical fixtures from rusting.  I brought some home and have been using ever since as a wipe for my weapons.  

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I haven't met anyone that has used Clenzoil before ... it must limited to where you can get it? SoCalTrojan said he'll use Clenzoil in the next trial, so we'll see how good it is.

Originally Posted By Beldavius:
To your point about finding out the lubrication properties, here's the equation:

Fr = μN

where:

Fr is the resistive force of friction
μ is the coefficient of friction for the two surfaces (Greek letter "mu")
N is the normal or perpendicular force pushing the two objects together
μN is μ times N
Fr and N are measured in units of force, which are pounds or newtons. μ is a number between 0 (zero) and ∞ (infinity).

According to the CRC Handbook of Physical Quantities, the coefficient of friction for steel on steel is 0.78, so if you made doublets of each piece, coated them both with oil and measured the force required to slide one across the other, you could calculate the coefficient of friction for each type of lubricant.  Since there is no area component to the equation, it doesn't matter what size you make the two pieces, but for ease of the experiment, I would make them all the same size.  I would put a hole in one end of one piece, attach a fish scale to it, and then pull the scale.  Read the weight off the scale when the attached piece starts moving and you've got N.  Multiply it by 0.78 and now you have your coefficient of friction, and your answer to which lube lubricates the best!

Originally Posted By ucrt:


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Wouldn't temperature play an important role in real life? One lube might be better than another at room temperature but up the temperature several hundred degrees and the coefficient would be meaningless? Then, throw in a little carbon, water, etc. ...

But...I agree that it might be a good starting point.

Isn't there some kind of lubricity standard that an lube oil company would (should) have to publish??

Originally Posted By MastaMarksman:

Great test.   Weird how BF CLP acts different from a different dispencer!?

But you forgot the best of all!   Corrosion X.

-Masta

Originally Posted By airgunner:
Interesting thread but not surprising. Every time I've see a thread like this, BF CLP always wins the rust test. BUT... Before people starting throwing out their old stuff and running out to buy BF CLP, keep one thing in mind... this test only demonstrates the "P" part of CLP - i.e. Rust prevention and that is only one aspect of why we use CLP on our weapons.

I myself am not too worried about rust, at least not on my AR's. For one I'm a civilian so my weapons don't spends days\weeks\months outdoors at a time. I take them out, I use them, bring them home, clean them and lube them. On top of that, AR's have protective coatings on just about every part so even without any type of protectant, It's not likely your AR is going to rust up in your safe. YMMV but my house is climate controlled and I have never had anything in the house rust… lubed, coated or not.

What I'm more concerned with is the "L" part of CLP lube. It's a pretty well documented fact that AR's need to be properly lubed to run reliably. When I clean, lube and store my weapons it’s with the thought that at anytime I may need to grab one of those weapons to defend my family. That means they need to be cleaned, lubed and ready to go. That is where my issue with BF CLP comes from.

If I lube my weapon with BF CLP and put it in the safe, within a week or so, the weapon is almost bone dry. I’m sure some of it’s still there and from a “P” perspective, it’s still working but from an “L” perspective, almost nothing. I see that same thing when I go shooting. I’ll lube up right before I leave the house but after a couple of mags at the range, there is almost no trace of the CLP left.

I started using Slip 2000 CLP (EWR) about 1-2 years ago and have found it to be a much better “C” and “L”. If I lube using Slip CLP and check my weapon 2 weeks later, it’s still “wet” and I see the same thing at the range. 4-5 mags later and you can still clearly see the lube. That is why I made the switch to Slip 2000.

Just to be clear before I get jumped on… Obviously YMMV and I’m not saying that BF CLP is crap. I know it’s been used for decades and I used it myself for years. I’m just saying that for me and my uses, Slip 2000 is better for the reasons I listed. Because of it superior rust protection, I still use BF CLP on most of my tools in the garage

Originally Posted By KEITH555:







My thoughts exactly,lubrication is what I am concerned about.This test does not have any lubrication value.

Originally Posted By SoCalTrojanSoldier:



Keith555 and Airgunner,

Thanks for looking but this was not a test about the lubricating properties of the materials.  This was purely to see which protected the best, and this was a very unscientific backyard study.  Keith as you know we live in a very humid region in particular the summer months.  Old_Town and myself are currently running more products to see which protects the best.
I'll have to leave the lubricating tests to others with access to the right equipment.

SOCAL,I should have explained my comment a little further. I totally understand You did this test for rust protection,not lubrication,a awesome test at that.I was just ranting off,because I am totally in to the best lubrication for my weapons. Good work

Originally Posted By turdferguson:
High temp wheel bearing grease is the best gun lube. CLP is great for protecting your bore though.

Originally Posted By USMC223:
While in the Corps serving as an Armorer 90% of the time our small arms were protected by CLP. We had gallons of the stuff, literally. Battle tested and time proven. Hate all you want it is good stuff.
I do love the Birchwood Casey Sheath for certain apps.

To the OP, cool test.

Originally Posted By Pacodutaco:
I can safely say my RemOil is going byebye.  I have been using it for years and it obviously sucks the most kind of like their .22lr ammo.  Great post!