I did a search in the achives and only found a few threads.
It seemed everyone liked the Gun Cleaner. However, how effectively does it remove carbon?
Do I spray it in the bore and leave it for 15 min, 3 hours, 2 days, or scrub the bore 50 times?
I've used Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter and while it did a decent job of removing carbon if you soaked it overnight, it wasn't fast acting with the carbon on my AK piston unless it was soaked in the solution.

Any thoughts on M-Pro 7 gun cleaner?

Its great stuff, but I only use it for my Glocks.
I stick to BF CLP for my AR. I use the dip method for cleaning all parts,
you dont have to soak overnight for results. Just  let parts sit for maybe a half hour.
And clean and brush as usual, I would assume that doing the AR the same you would have
the same results.

I found that BF CLP will easily get rid of powder residue (stuff that you'd find in the bolt carrier) but for the serious stuff, like the carbon deposits in the chamber, bore, gas piston (AK), and AR barrel extension, BF CLP doesn't do a whole lot.

I found that soaking my Glock barrel in Slip 2k carbon cutter for 24 hours will remove all carbon deposits from the "rifling", whereas I could sit there and scrub it for 1 hour w/o any positive results using BF CLP.

I bought a small bottle of M-Pro 7 hoping it will work as advertised. I've seen the 30mm avenger bores up close in person and the rifling resembled axle splines on my Ford

MPro-7 = Good          
MC-25 = Better

How different/same is the MC-25 from Slip 2000 725 Cleaner/Degreaser? I soaked my AK piston in 725 for 2 hours and not a single drop of carbon "cracked" off. I read through 725's description and thought it would work, but it wouldn't even take any carbon out of the bore of my rifle after letting it sit for 15-20 min.

Never used Slip 2000 so I can't comment on that product, sorry.

MC-25 is very similar to Mpro-7 but doesn't smell like cat piss, and cleans noticeably better IMHO.  In my experience, a brass brush and MC-25 works wonders.  I can get 90%+ of the blast marks off the cylinder face of a revolver this way.

I would take a brass brush to your gas piston along with your Mpro-7.  You should get very good results.  You could also use a S/S brush to get the heavy stuff.  Let the Mpro sit on the piston for a couple of min. to let it work before brushing it.

Even with this, I doubt that you'll get it to look like it was when new.  The extreme heat can discolor the piston.

discoloration is fine, and I don't mind the carbon at all, but it's just a test I use for different products. The carbon is heavy and thick on the top of the AK piston and so I think it's a fair test for carbon removers.

I'll try the M-Pro 7 (it's already on order) with lots of brushing involved. One issue I have with oil based cleaners / lubes is that it always gets on the Otis cable and makes it greasy as I try to pull the patch. Plus the brushes get clogged up with grease / carbon residue. An aqueous solution is probably a better idea as you can just wash it after cleaning the firearm.

I bought some Hoppe's Elite gun cleaner at one point and it seemed like it was the same as Slip 2000 CLP - smells sort of like Windex w/o the ammonia. Shooting Wolf will generate the "cat piss" odor but I shoot it anyway!

Mpro7 & Hoppes Elite are exactly the same stuff (at least that is what I have heard).  I have used both and could tell no difference.

I don't use the Otis, but in my experience, cleaning rods are much easier to clean up with the water based solvents.  I'll never use #9 again.

I know you are using this condition as a test for cleaners, which is cool, but I have found that a piece of brass (like an old punch) is great for scraping/pushing carbon/lead off of steel.  Works great for getting the heavy buildup off, which then lets the solvents cleanup the thinner stuff remaining.

Hope all of this helps.

I've used it for a while and like it a lot.  I also have heard that Hoppes Elite is the same thing.  I was told that Hoppes bought the company that makes Mpro-7, but part of the agreement was that Mpro-7 would be kept as a name for a few years.

I got my bottle of M-Pro 7. It does not smell the same as Hoppe's Elite. In fact, M-Pro 7 has NO odor, at least I cannot detect any odor. It does a fantastic job of degreasing though. It works almost as well as brake cleaner. I have not tried using it to remove carbon though (no time).

I think that you will find it does a very good job on carbon.  Overall it is a very good cleaner.  

If you like Mpro-7, you'll really like MC-25 from milcomm.  Works even better.

I bought a big bottle of Mpro many years ago, not long after it was first being marketed.  Maybe it's past its shelf life, but right now it smells just like cat piss.    Still works good though.

The Mpro7 and MC-25 are both nice carbon and powder fouling cleaners.But yall have to remember that neither will remove copper or the powder fouling it hides underneath.
Neither can be used as copper cleaners or for soaking nasty bores overnight.
That said the MC-25 does have a mild pH of around 8.5 that does give it a slight edge in that respect and penetrates almost immediately through caked fouling.The MC-25 makes an excellent corrosive ammo cleaner if yall need such...I do.
Difference between the MC-25 and Mpro7 is that the Mpro7 is a bit thicker than Mc-25's thin water base formula.The MC-25 does remind me of the SLIP 725 cleaner somewhat but has a different smell,kinda reminds me of a old lady powder smell rather than a cleaner.
I have used Mpro7,MC-25 and Slip 725 and none of them out perform the old #9 in the end other than not being smelly.But thats my opinion...#9 can be left in the bores to soak for weeks without fear of corrosion,its a mild copper solvent and penetrates extremely well to loosen fouling.So comparing the water based cleaners to a petro solvent like #9 is just about impossible.
Dont get wrong either,I really like the MC-25,Mpro7 and the 725,but only for basic degreasing and cleaning.Soaking barrels I use #9....in fact I prefer the old #9 for normal bore cleaning...it seems to keep the copper fouling to a minimum with everyday use.
Im with Metroplex on the Slip carbon cutter.That stuff kicks butt for baked on heavy carbon.I use it on the op-rod of the M1 and SKS gas system.
For a little heads up...the best surfactant and bore cleaner I have used to date is the Blue Wonder bore cleaner.That stuff cuts copper and carbon better than anything I have used in its class.Its in gel form with a hint of ammonia and pine scent...my nose anyway.So its odor is not offensive to the nose and does not stink up a room.But man it cleans a bore extremely well in just minutes.So yall might take a look at it as well.

Thanks for the report on the Blue Wonder cleaner.  I had heard about it and seen it around, but have never heard a reveiw from a credible (i.e. non-newbie) source...until now!  I'll have to give it a try.

How does it do on lead?

Sorry for any highjack.

I used M-Pro 7 to help clean the bores of my rifles and to try it on the AK gas piston. To be honest, I wasn't that impressed with its performance, but it was helping the removal of carbon. I then switched back to CLP and could have sworn that it was picking up where M-Pro 7 left off and continued to remove stuff that the M-Pro 7 could not remove.

I'll be sticking with Break Free CLP and finish off the rest of my M-Pro 7 using it as a degreasing/cleaner since it is non-toxic.

Quoted: Thanks for the report on the Blue Wonder cleaner.  I had heard about it and seen it around, but have never heard a reveiw from a credible (i.e. non-newbie) source...until now!  I'll have to give it a try. How does it do on lead? Sorry for any highjack.

I dont know about lead,I dont have a problem with that fouling.All I shoot is jacketed bullets.Only thing I shoot lead out of is muskets and they are well greased or patched.So I dont have lead issues much.

Has anyone tried the Boretech Eliminator or Hoppe's elite copper terminator?  I've seen pretty good reviews of the boretech.  One of these might make a good partner for the mpro-7 to tackle the copper.  Sweets is awesome for the copper, but these are less toxic and probably easier on a chromed bore.