I bought one of these cloths to polish the carbon off the face of my Smith&Wesson revolver cylinder.  No matter how hard I polished before, the carbon would stay.  With a little elbow grease and the Birchwood Casey cloth, the carbon came off and the nickle looked clean.  

In reading the directions, the BC package says, "Can be cut to size for removing unwanted residue inside the chamber, cylinder, forcing cone, bore and choke."  My rifle has a bore,...so...

I took my favorite rifle, which I had cleaned last time I shot it, and cut a BC patch and wrapped it around the jag on my cleaning rod.  A couple passes through the bore, and the BC cloth was THICK with black soot....carbon, from inside the barrel.  And this was after many passes with Hoppes #9 when I last cleaned it.  (The gun is a model 70 stainless varmit in .308)

I couldn't believe my barrel was so dirty inside. What gives....is Hoppes no good, or is Birchwood Casey Polishing Cloth just that much better????  

Any thoughts?

Another newless clueby here. New to AR15 forum.

I have a similar question. My brand-new Bushmaster A3, stainless bbl, gets cleaned regularly after the range. After using H#9 and CLP (alternately) to clean the bore I used some Lead-Away patches (those orange, sort of waxy things). All of the 1st 20 patches came out looking like they'd been used to scrub charcoal briquettes!After 20 patches it sort of seemed to look like it was getting cleaner... but the barrel still isn't clean to MY satisfaction. I wonder if the steel in the barrel interacts with the cleaner to produce the dirt? I scrubbed like HE** to get the bore clean, left H#9 soaking in the barrel for 10 minutes just like they said, and the yellow patches still came out durty!
Any way to speed up the process? And, is it dirty like this because of a new bore (machining marks, etc)?

Just make sure you dont use that lead away cloth on blued guns. I found it works great on my stainless revovlers too.