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Posted: 12/8/2003 6:10:47 AM EDT
Anyone know what the commercial equivalent of dry cleaning solvent mentioned in the military maintenance manuals is?
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 7:15:50 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/8/2003 7:51:42 AM EDT by JTinIN]
For a start would take a look at: [url]http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/drycleaning/[/url] One has three options in general to clean with: [b]Water Based[/b] (Slip200, MPro7, Simple Green etc.) that is a little safer to the user but if not done correctly can damage the metal item being cleaned (i.e. Simple Green works great on the bolt carrier but can attack aluminum). These solvents removes dirt well, are great on any corrosive salts, work well in ultra sonice cleaners, however, water base cleaners also tend to leave a residue (little like soap scum). Which is why I typically step out side and rinse off the parts with brake cleaner and blow dry before finial lube (not needed but .... ) [b]Solvents Which Burn[/b] (Mineral Sprits, Kerosene, Alcohol) the solvents with the higher vapor pressure / flash point do not burn too easily and with good venting and safety procedures can be used as an effective solvent. The alcohol's work well to remove water but also can leave a little layer of moisture if saturated from earlier contact with the air / water, which can lead to issues if the parts are not dried (heat works well or another solvent rinse). Would stay away from the very high vapor pressure solvents which have a flash point well below zero degrees F (i.e. Gasoline and Acetone) or if using a spray with acetone (i.e. some brake cleaners) then use outside in limited amounts. Would also watch using anything with MEK or metha chloride ... as these are also in paint stripper and have been known to destory plastic parts (one AUG mag catch at the last KCR subgun match comes to mind). My current favorite is parts washer fluid which is a very high flash point (>145F) mineral sprits that acts like using diesel fuel in the rate of evaporation. Only down side is $10 per gallon. [b]Solvents Which Do Not Burn[/b] (i.e. Gun Scrubber and various chlorinated solvents) are good solvents, evaporate fast with little residue, but can cause cancer and liver damage along with defatting of the skin. Thus near perfect solvent for final rinse but can cause harm to the user (use in well vented area / out side and wear good gloves ... then again in my day job I use red nitric acid or HF for solvents and to rinse ... so my idea might be a little different than yours).
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 8:10:49 AM EDT
For discussion my general cleaning program, in particular for full autos which tend to get dirty fast is as follows (as always appreicate any ideas or comments): [list][*]1: If very dirty dunk in mineral sprits with ATF or blast clean with brake cleaner or gun scrubber type solvents. Other wise start with step 2.[/*] [*]2: Field strip and spot clean with Hoppies #9 or or MPro7 (cold weather inside), in particular the chamber and gas system on ARs[/*] [*]2a: Clean bore as needed with copper removing solvents, from Hoppies #9 upwards[/*] [*]3: Clean parts in mineral spirts bath with brush or for limited cleaning use CLP with brush and then flush with brake cleaner[/*] [*]4: Blow dry with dry air if using mineral sprits or flush with brake cleaner[/*] [*]5: Foam parts with CLP, drip dry and blow with compressed air next day or drip dry and wipe in the field [/*]. [*]5a: Punch the bore to remove excessiver oil, depending on how long of storage and next use[/*] [*]6: Spot lube high wear surface, using Break Free lube for 20mm (no longer in catalog) and LSA and/or LubiPlate on the larger 30 cals as neeced[/*] [/list]
Link Posted: 12/20/2003 12:45:52 AM EDT
I'll give you the answer you are looking for. MilSpec dry cleaning solvent is PD-680. The commercial equivelent is Stoddard Solvent or Mineral Spirits or odorless paint thinner.
Link Posted: 12/20/2003 8:53:22 AM EDT
Many thanks, KA3B.
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