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Posted: 9/20/2003 1:56:33 PM EDT
Could you use compressed air to spray debris out of tight places, or would this cause corrosion, etc?
Link Posted: 9/20/2003 2:40:49 PM EDT
Normal compressed air won't harm anything, but wern't you talking about the Computer Air in a can? I'm not sure about that stuff.
Link Posted: 9/20/2003 2:44:13 PM EDT
Originally Posted By hickboy: Normal compressed air won't harm anything, but wern't you talking about the Computer Air in a can? I'm not sure about that stuff.
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Yup, that's what I was talking about.
Link Posted: 9/20/2003 2:47:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/20/2003 2:48:59 PM EDT by Winston_Wolf]
... Don't futz with that canned air crap. At a minimum, go get a small, airbrush sized compressor at Walmart if you have a hard on for compressed air. (editedfordrunkinposten)
Link Posted: 9/20/2003 2:54:45 PM EDT
I use a small 2 gallon sized compressor from Sears I got for $98 bucks with all attachments and hose all the time. Just keep the tank drained frequently to keep H2O out. Works like a charm for me. MM419
Link Posted: 9/20/2003 3:17:42 PM EDT
Compressed air from a compressor could have water in it (especially if you don’t drain the compressor frequently). A filter such as is used for air tools should prevent that possibility. I wouldn’t think compressed air from a can would be a problem (seems like if it won’t mess up a computer, it shouldn’t mess up a firearm). Compressed air is an especially good way of cleaning out the trigger housing area of an AR. However, it will stir up debris to include lead and other harmful particles, which either you may breathe or will settle on nearby surfaces. Thus, I’d suggest you use it in a place with good ventilation and you avoid using it in living quarters.
Link Posted: 9/20/2003 3:33:06 PM EDT
Originally Posted By 199: Compressed air is an especially good way of cleaning out the trigger housing area of an AR.
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That's exactly what I was looking at it for.
Link Posted: 9/20/2003 3:39:14 PM EDT
You could buy a compressed air tank, like at Wal-Mart, and get it filled at a gas staion, or with one of those cheap compressors that works of a cigarette lighter socket. Some type of moisture filter would be a good idea. Those hobbyist compressors are kinda spendy. I think canned air will be too weak.
Link Posted: 9/20/2003 3:46:34 PM EDT
Originally Posted By OLY-M4gery: I think canned air will be too weak.
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It was. Didn't last long either. MM419
Link Posted: 9/20/2003 9:55:24 PM EDT
Every time you compress air you will get moisture. We sometimes at school have problems with air compressors insides rusting. Usually the manifolds. If I were you I would use the computer compressed air since its used for delicate components. Better yet goto your local airport and get some aviators breathing oxygen. It has no water in it.
Link Posted: 9/21/2003 8:10:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/21/2003 8:10:45 AM EDT by JTinIN]
Originally Posted By ekg98: Every time you compress air you will get moisture. Better yet goto your local airport and get some aviators breathing oxygen. It has no water in it.
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Quick question and possible warning: Is aviators breathing "oxygen" compressed air (i.e. with ~70% nitrogen like the air we breath) or 100% oxygen? If pure oxygen then would remcommend not using due to a fire issue (if air, what type price?). The "canned" air tends to become cool when the gas expands and if used for more than a few seconds maybe cause water to condense out of the air, depending on the humidity. In the old "Freon" days the "canned" air and "freeze spray" were the same material, but with a bottom feed for the "freeze spray" to draw liquid, which in turn evaporated and cooled the electronic part under test. In the lab when we ran low of one, we would just turn the can upside down to switch usage. In the lab to clean micro-electronics we use a large tank of dry nitrogen (lower cost of less than $10 plus tank rent) as is very dry/clean, plus not as cold as CO2 or "Freon, both of which have a phase change (liquid turns to gas) which cools the gas more than the simple expansion of the nitrogen (or oxygen or air). Nitrogen makes a great back fill gas for long term storage ... no oxygen slows/stops rust, food spoilage etc.
Link Posted: 9/22/2003 10:39:26 AM EDT
AR15s were made to get wet. Don't worry about the slight possiblity of a little moisture in the air. That's what CLP is for. The cans of air are expensive and aren't very high pressure. You don't need compressed air for weapons maintainance but it sure goes a lot quicker if you have it. Look around. You can get a small air compressor for around $100 that will do the trick.
Link Posted: 9/25/2003 10:47:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/25/2003 10:53:05 AM EDT by desertmoon]
Quoth Winston_Wolf [b]"... Don't futz with that canned air crap. At a minimum, go get a small, airbrush sized compressor at Walmart if you have a hard on for compressed air."[/b] Hey, ya big weenie...I use canned air all the time....I can't buy an air compressor because I am always blowing cash on our shoots![50] Hey, speakin' of weenies...you bringin' the grill? (editedferbadspellin)
Link Posted: 9/26/2003 6:00:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/26/2003 6:01:35 AM EDT by EladEflow]
What are you doing shooting Wolf through that rifle? [;D] My trigger housing never really seems to get that dirty, must be the "Frankengun" I'd say don't worry about it and if you really are going to worry about it just use Q-tips and swab it out. That canned air is pretty expensive at the price of compressed air might as well just buy an Aerosol can of CLP and go to town with that. [;)]
Link Posted: 9/26/2003 11:56:27 AM EDT
Not that it gets dirty....I just see little particles/debris sitting on the springs here or there, and being the paranoid clean freak with my guns that I am, I want it all off! [:D]
Link Posted: 9/26/2003 1:19:27 PM EDT
Originally Posted By JTinIN: Quick question and possible warning: Is aviators breathing "oxygen" compressed air (i.e. with ~70% nitrogen like the air we breath) or 100% oxygen? If pure oxygen then would remcommend not using due to a fire issue (if air, what type price?).
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Yes, it is pure oxygen. It's also pretty expensive - I think a 9lb bottle is something like $20 at the local FBO. An alternative I've seen is to use a small tire tube (like from a garden tractor or something) with a fitting for the valve that lets you attach a small airbrush or similar. I've heard of those being used to clean the insides of computers, so I suspect it would work as well for an AR.
Link Posted: 10/8/2003 2:36:52 PM EDT
Depending on the part and situation, I frequently use hot water / detergent, then spray with WD 40 and blast it dry with compressed air, then lubricate.
Link Posted: 10/11/2003 7:05:40 PM EDT
Originally Posted By ChiefPilot: .... An alternative I've seen is to use a small tire tube (like from a garden tractor or something) with a fitting for the valve that lets you attach a small airbrush or similar. I've heard of those being used to clean the insides of computers, so I suspect it would work as well for an AR.
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You can pick up a 7.5 gallon compressed air tank at Wally World for $18, plus will need a new hose/fitting to connect to a compressed air blow gun (can also add an inline filter is you wish). When at 100 psi (125 psi max) the tank will give you enough to clean the solvent out and then blow the excess break free out. For removing "dirt" I perfer burshing with my favorite gun cleaner and then flooding with brake cleaner or gun scrubber (check out NAPA and you can find brake cleaner).
Link Posted: 10/12/2003 10:21:25 PM EDT
found a small compressor at home depot on sale for 60 bucks....with the small needle tip used for inflating sporting goods it blows any and everything out of any corner of the rifle you can find...as the compressor heats up it does create a little moisture but after a min or so it will all blow out....no more buying cans of air....just be careful...all that black muck it blows out has a nasty habit of ending up all over your wall ! im lucky enough to have a bedroom set up as a shop so it isnt too big of a deal....and i learned the hard way.. :)
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