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Posted: 12/3/2017 11:03:48 AM EDT
[#1]
It's been awhile since I built my last 2 lowers, but I believe I used a roll pin punch to achieve the same goal, with the pin following the punch as a guide, as the punch is removed.
Edit: Ah, I just read you statement in ( ). I went right to your link before. The right tool for the right job as they say, but the punch works great, and I already have a set for assembly of the lower. |
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Posted: 12/3/2017 11:37:50 AM EDT
[#2]
When I bought a QMS trigger, it came with a slave pin for installation. Worked fine.
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Posted: 12/3/2017 11:59:50 AM EDT
[#3]
Honestly I have never understood why I would put a pin through to put a pin through. Might as well just put the one that goes there first. The hammer is only one part and there is no difference in difficulty installing a pin.
You can make a pin the width of the trigger and put the parts together outside the lower drop the group in and slide the correct pin through while pushing out the dummy pin if you find it difficult to align the parts. |
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Posted: 12/3/2017 4:06:07 PM EDT
[#4]
Yeah that's one thing I've never particularly felt the need for a special tool but I guess if you have problems with it and the tool makes it easier more power to you
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Posted: 12/3/2017 5:49:28 PM EDT
[#5]
I have several slave pins for this job now. I love the KAK Walt's Tool though.
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Posted: 12/3/2017 9:45:54 PM EDT
[#6]
I made a slave pin out of a #23 drill bit I had laying around. Works perfect.
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Posted: 12/4/2017 4:49:33 AM EDT
[#7]
I use a roll pin to align everything. I think the trigger installation is one of the easier parts of an AR builds. I'd say the hardest would be the forward assist install or A1 rear sight roll pin install.
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Posted: 12/4/2017 6:48:48 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd say the hardest would be the forward assist. On dale at MidwayUSA |
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Posted: 12/4/2017 8:35:39 AM EDT
[#9]
Unless a true slave pin like j3 describes above, pins for the AR FCG require a couple of things.
1. A tapered end. This corrects misalignment easily. 2. The other end to be as close as possible to .154 for a smooth chase with the actual trigger or hammer pin. Both are important for the purpose of making assembly easier. Also, ~4" gives you enough leverage to keep alignment as you pull the guide pin while pushing the actual pin. Pins I made years ago from 5/32 drill rod  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/4/2017 11:58:22 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wheeler's armorer's bench block turns that into a 30-second task. The downside is that this block is a spendy piece of polymer. On dale at MidwayUSA |
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Posted: 12/4/2017 2:42:38 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Interesting, how does this help? The hard part for me is to hold the roll pin, punch, and push in the button. This block doesn't look like it pushes in the forward assist Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Wheeler's armorer's bench block turns that into a 30-second task. The downside is that this block is a spendy piece of polymer. On dale at MidwayUSA |
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Posted: 12/4/2017 5:16:41 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Look at the pics on the left side of the screen. Click on the second picture down from the top. It shows how it works. .... You have no memory of my past comment |
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Posted: 12/4/2017 5:19:31 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Interesting, how does this help? The hard part for me is to hold the roll pin, punch, and push in the button. This block doesn't look like it pushes in the forward assist |
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Posted: 12/4/2017 5:56:21 PM EDT
[#14]
Block looks handy. On sale too.
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Posted: 12/4/2017 5:58:08 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Actually, it does! I usually duct tape the forward assist in and hammer in the roll pin. I'm pretty damn cheap. I've paid less than 75$ on all my ar tools, 35$ if you don't count my roll pin punches |
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Posted: 12/5/2017 12:08:30 AM EDT
[#16]
the block works great and I have had mine for years now.
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