I still need to put the thing back together.. I cut the cord to the motor so I can take it off, and the machine exterior is REALLY scuffed up from moving it up 3 floors. I hope to get it up and running soon...

How did you end up moving it, though, after splitting it into a few pieces?

My Grizzly G4003G is still sitting outside my basement door under a tarp since the movers couldn't figure out how to get it into the house.

I can't help you there.

It took 5 guys to muscle it up there... there was only so much I can take apart and I couldn't figure out how to get the headstock off the bed (that shaves a considerable amount of weight)

Keep in mind though this late is only a little under 500lbs, I believe the Grizzly G4003G weights more than twice as much!!

I'm assuming you aren't moving it up the stairs, what's the problem? Is your shop in the basement?

Yes, the shop is (or will be) in the basement. The movers just weren't properly equipped. No stairs, just an outside door threshold to clear.

Five guys got it off of the truck (backed the lift gate against the slight hill/rise between the road/driveway level and the walk-out basement door level, and rolled it on a couple dollies over some plywood to just in front of the door, but were unable to muscle it (or my PM-45M mill) thru the door and into the basement.

There's a member of my local makerspace who supposedly has a brother who is an experienced rigger who I will approach to see if he can help.

Otherwise I am a sometimes member of a local machining hobbyist group, and someone from that group probably has contacts who can help.

It's part of the reason why I got this lathe. It's the lightest lathe that can do what I need it to do.

Right now I'm just practicing threading on some scrap cold rolled steel... I still need to make a spider.

It doesn't have the bells and whistle of a G4003G (my lathe is only a few hundred less) but it's so far a pretty decent lathe.

The spindle hole is 1.5 inches...

Well, I have read a lot of Grizzly machines have shortcomings that Precision Matthews overcome.... I wish I had known about them at first because their version of the Grizzly G0704 mill is much better and comes standard with belt drive, but at only slightly higher prices. I would have saved over 500 dollars if I had gone with PM.

This machine still has quick change gear box, and D1-4 spindle.

Just know those Grizzly machines often need a lot of work to make it perform...

Been some time in the queue!  Congrats on finally having it up and running.  Can't wait to see some projects.

I just did some operations on the lathe... I need to learn how to use this thing because every time I thread something, the thread chatters badly when it's getting closer to being fully cut. I'm using carbide inserts.

The lathe has so far been excellent... LOTS of power at low RPM. My only gripe is it doesn't come with the accessory packages that Grizzly generally includes. It comes with a 3 jaw chuck (which I promptly removed, I will use it in my mill for milling long objects), steady/follow rests, a MT5 dead center, a MT3 dead center, and that's basically it.

I wish it included a MT3 live center because honestly I hated dead centers. I used it for turning some aluminum rod and it squeaks badly if not lubricated. I have to buy them.

So far I have opted not to use a quick change tool post. I guess right now it seems to work well for me but I have to shim like crazy. I'm probably going to buy some 3/4" insert holders and mill them down until it centers properly.

I'm not sure if I can use BXA tool posts... Matt from PM said the machine is designed for AXA tool posts only.

I also ordered some Mighty Magnet indicator holders. I can stick it to the tool post to indicate stocks (I read a lot of import magnetic base is junk)

Good looking machine, I look forward to seeing some of your projects as they evolve.

Is it rigid enough that it won't deflect under spring pressure from the dial indicator?

I had a device that mounts to mill spindle which helps me with tramming, and it was so flimsy that even if I crank the knobs between segments down with the aid of a vice grip, it would still move even with spring pressure from the indicator. It was basically junk.

I just installed a Bostar BXA quick change tool post. The machine gives you an option to buy AXA sized tool post but it's too small, and this lathe is capable of so much more. All I had to do is take the rod that came with the tool post, and put it in the lathe, and turn them down to 9/16" and thread it 18tpi and it fits right in as though nothing happened.



Making some receivers...

Wo hoooooo

Looking good, can't wait to see what you come up with!

I'll be honest with you, this lathe is every bit as capable as G4003G or other gunsmithing lathes that weight much more. It's just light enough that I can put it upstairs, but heavy enough to do what I need to do.

I really need to learn more about the proper depth of cut of carbide inserts. I made some rather deep cuts with some WNMG inserts going fast (around 700 RPM or so) and the finish came out REALLY shiny. When I try to make a finish cut of around .003" the finish ends up looking REALLY bad, and I couldn't cut deeper because the part is at its finished diameter. So now my receiver looks kinda dull and rough looking just because I don't have any inserts that makes good .001" cuts... they all have a minimum depth.

Doesn't matter though... I am going to sandblast it once it's finished and then rust blue it. I should probably get a handheld belt sander so I can polish the parts on the lathe.

Most carbide doesn't cut well unless it's pushed hard.

Cut it to within .002-.003 and polish to final with paper.

RE: BXA

Take out each 10mm x1 stud for tool height adjustment and use brake cleaner to degrease both the stud and threaded hole in the tool holder blocks. Then use Loctite and torque those studs all the way in. You don't want them coming loose when your trying to lock down the fine adjustment on tool height.  Tighten the nut with the pedestal clamped then release and re-clamp to confirm position. I put the dead center in the tailstock quill and use the point to set tool heights.

Note that properly made insert holders will have the tool tip at the same height as the top of the square shank. Boring bars will be at half the clamping shank diameter (as if there were no flats).

Buy one of these and you will be thanking me later. 16mm shank 2mm part off insert holder with inserts.

You can also find some great deals on insert boring bars (with inserts), threading tools both ID and OD.