Hey guys. This is my first post along with my first build (and plan for it to be the only one I ever do or at least until my business gets going strong). I am 19, so I am not experienced with building my own Ar, but I have done many hours of research (probably too much tbh). If y'all don't mind, I would like to post what components I want  to get so far and get y'all's feedback on it.

Note: My goal for this build is to have a very accurate (doesn't have to be match grade; maybe sub-MOA if possible), super reliable, and not overly expensive (hopefully not over $1000, but I will be buying it in pieces over months probably anyway) 556 NATO chambered Ar. I don't care too much about weight, so long as it is under 9 or so pounds. The main thing I want with this build is reliability, but the other two aspects are also very important. I want this to be the only build I will ever truly need. I realize that the whole "always want a better Ar" mentality will come, but I want to have a gun that I can tell myself "Nah. I got a really good gun...better than I will ever need."

Here is what components I am pretty solid on getting, but still willing to look at other alternatives if they are better:
1. Barrel: Faxon Firearms 16" GUNNER, 5.56 NATO, with a mid-length gas system (no clue which gas block I want)
2. Bolt Carrier Group: Faxon 5.56/300 BLK M16 Bolt Carrier Group (haven't done much research in BCGs, but I have read/watched tons of good stuff on Faxon overall)
3. Stock: Magpul ACS™ Carbine Stock OR something similar with compartments for storage.
4. Gas Block: Geissele Super Gas Block (thanks @Endermend!)
5. Magpul MIAD Grip (thanks @MS556!)
Continued in next post...

Continued from original post:
Components I need help with (it's a lot, lol):
1. Lower: No clue, but want it 80%. Probably will just get an Anderson lower, but idk.
2. Magazines: Magpul 3rd Gen Pmags 30 rounds
3. Handrail/guard: Leaning toward the STNGR HWK 13"/15"
4. Backup irons: Magpul MBUS Polymer Set
5. Scope: Postponed until I actually get everything else, lol. Aka nvm for now.
6. Muzzle break: Standard A2 Birdcage (for now)
7. Grip: Magpul MIAD 1.1 Grip Type 1, probably with the "extra Bolt storage" addon. (thanks @MS556)
8. Sling: Probably the Magpul MS3 unless I can find something just as good, but cheaper.
9. Safety: Some cheap, reliable, and mil-spec 90 degree safety.
10: Speedloader: Idk, but I know I don't want to load mags by hand. Striplula or something similar.
11. Upper: AERO PRECISION - AR-15/M16 STRIPPED UPPER RECEIVER (maybe)
12. Other parts I missed (help me figure out what I missed/what would be nice/helpful)

*Note: Parts in bold are essentially final unless someone can give me a better option with evidence.*
Well, sorry for the word-dump, but I hope this will help y'all to help me out. Thanks in advance!
-Ethobling

"...... I want this to be the only build I will ever truly need."



They're like potato chips, once you make one, you MUST make more.
It's a disease.

ETA:  You seem to have quite a few specific features in mind. How much experience do you have shooting AR's?  If not much, I would suggest you just make it a basic build initially.  You can always add/replace parts later as desired.

Perhaps, but I want to try.

Again, it doesn't have to look perfect, or have perfect accuracy, or the perfect trigger pull, etc. Main thing is reliability, with cost and accuracy as a close 2nd. Having the perfect trigger or ambidextrous mag release, etc isn't important for me (at least not yet :P).

Also, I did say "need" not "want." Ik I will always want another, lol. xD


Edit to your "ETA" (whatever that means, since it isn't "Estimated Time of Arrival" heh):
I have barely any experience in shooting Ar-15s (unless you count my metal ar-15 airsoft rifle), but I have experience in shooting in general. It makes sense that maybe I should keep it simple...what parts should I compromise on then?

Edit to my edit: K that last question was dumb. Imma clarify my "components" above into "must have" and "want have"s...

ETA means edited to add. They are magazines not clips. An M1 Garand uses clips.

Your build ideas are all over the place. What do you want this gun to do? Home defense, competition, truck gun, etc.  Once you figure that out you can build towards your function.

ETA means "Edited to add",  when you go back and edit a post to add something.

Here's a list of things I would postpone at first:

- Scope - start with irons first. Optics are generally the most expensive part of a rifle. Take your time before you buy.
- 45 degree safety - Just buy a standard lower parts kit (aka LPK) to start.
- 18" barrel - you really need this?  16" is plenty accurate for most.  Not saying 18" doesn't have its uses, but just added weight and bulk unless you have a reason for it.
- Why an 80% lower? Licensing issues in your state?  For first build I'd go with a standard lower, especially if you want to avoid problems and want something more likely to be reliable.

General recommendations:

- Yes Faxon is good stuff
- I like BCM grips, YMMV.
- Stocks - This is very subjective, even though a stock is highly rated, you may not care for it.  I had a Magpul, sold it because it just didn't fit my shoulder well.
- Slings - I have one from Blue Force Gear, pretty nice IMO.  You can buy sliders, sling attachments etc. to fit your needs.
- Rails - So many out there, most are very good quality.  BCM, Midwest Industries, etc.  Be sure to bear in mind the locations of the QD sling points when considering a rail.
- Triggers - I started with the trigger that came in a LPK, then eventually got a two-stage from Rock River Arms.  I believe they make the best moderately priced upgraded trigger.  You can spend a lot more, but for me the RRA trigger is all I need.

You're asking way too much for one rifle to do all.

I would aim at a good 16" barrel. Ballistic Advantage, Faxon, and Green Mountain come to mind.

I would then add a M lok rail, because quad rails are outdated, old, heavy, large... harder to find... ALG makes my favorite so far. I like it over my Geissele rail. I would stay away from Aeros as I've had multiple problems with their Quantum Rail. I would get something with anti rotation tabs.

Add a Geissele Super Gas Block and pin the thing (For reliability sake)

BCG get a Toolcraft, they're 70$ and well proven

Trigger, I would get ALG ACT one of my favorites for the price.

Stock, Muzzle Brake, Pistol Grip, doesn't matter. Doesn't change much, and shouldn't be an excuse for not being able to shoot. It's up to you, go to a gun store or your range and ask to try out other peoples shit and pick and choose what you like.

Same with Iron Sights and Optics pretty much the same stuff.

45 safety I would go with seekins cheap and reliable.

A simple build with a 16" barrel will pretty much do everything great. I don't think you can shoot sub moa, so why even try it the barrel will probably shoot better than you...

I pretty much explained my build, and the build I made for my brother. I built both for under 600$ each.
Geissele Mk8 13", Barrel: Green Mountain M8 16", ALG ACT Trigger, Standard LPK, Mil Spec Stock, Fail Zero BCG, GG&G Rear Sight with YHM Front Sight. 600$ closer to 700$ All parts were bought new mostly from the EE

My brothers build was pretty much the same, except for the barrel which was a used Faxon pencil barre, PSA BCG, and ALG EMR V2 12". Used irons .... it was a simple build and cost me 450 plus or minus a couple twenties. btw his rifle shoots close to 1.5 moa and weighs less than 6 pounds.

Don't forget you will have to have someone gift you the lower unless you get an 80% and mill it yourself

Well... if you wanted opinions, you’ve come to the right place. . It sounds like you want to build a do it all AR - HD/SD, range toy, hunting rifle, etc.  You will always have to make some compromises when a single AR fills all these roles.  So reliability is #1.  Ok that’s a good top priority.  So first question is an echo of what others have already asked, and that is why 80% lower?  If you have very little experience, milling out a lower means needing some specialized tooling (router, jig, etc).  If you intend to have just one AR, this just doesn’t make sense to me.  I recommend that you get a high quality forged stripped lower (or billet at typically a little higher cost), and a quality lower parts kit (LPK).  You should be able to find a LPK with the parts, trigger, grip, etc. that you like, or at least build your LPK from vendors like White Oak Armament or Red Barn Armory that give you that option.  You might be surprised that vendors like Palmetto State Armory has such a variety of LPKs, that you find a kit that’s exactly right.

I would recommend a shorter barrel like others have said.  A do all rifle should also be handy to maneuver, and light enough to carry for an extended period.  So a 14.5” with a pinned and welded muzzle device or 16” barrel will provide a decent compromise in handiness and weight without sacrificing accuracy.  Faxon Gunner is one of the good choices out there, and it’s smart to get their BCG if you go Faxon.  Ask them to check the headspace for a matched bolt and barrel so you don’t need to get headspace gauges or ask a gunsmith to check it for you.

As for the rest of your choices, it sounds like you did some research and know what you’re getting into, but I recommend that you visit a gun range, and shoot a few rental AR’s.  Also visit a good local gun shop, and handle as many AR’s as you can.  This will solidify your choices on furniture (grips, stock, etc).  You may be surprised at the difference grip angle, stock length of pull, hand guard shape and diameter, etc. makes on how comfortable the AR feels on you.  Handling it and shooting it are two different experiences, so that's why I recommend shooting a few so at least you know what you don’t like.  This is especially true for triggers and muzzle devices.

As for optics, I also recommend you go with irons only at first.  You can make your final decision later.  Don’t be surprised if you want a couple different types, especially if you want to shoot 300+ yards and also up close.  A quality 1-6x variable scope, a good do-all choice for example, could set you back a cost equivalent to your whole AR.

As for tools, for a one time build, you may need the most thought.  At minimum, a roll pin punch set, small hammer, armorer’s wrench, screwdriver set, Allen wrench set and access to a bench vise and receiver blocks if you also assemble your own upper, and a decent torque wrench.  Good luck not catching BRD after making such investments.  Enjoy the experience.

Edited To Add: at 19 YO, buying tools, especially those not dedicated to guns, is a good thing.  My collection of tools acquired over the years have paid back the investment several fold.  Buy quality tools, it may hurt a bit now, but 10 years from now, you’ll be glad you did.

Thank you to all that replied. :D

To clarify, I want this to mainly be a hunting rifle with a secondary as a home/self-defense rifle along with a lot of plinking (probably) as my tertiary. Also, I wanted a rifle-length system for a longer gun life (I realize that a carbine system can last thousands of rounds easily, but getting another few hundred/thousand rounds out of it before having to replace the barrel/gas system/etc is something I want. I want this gun to outlive me. I also want it to be able to be dropped in mud and keep running (not that I would ever do that on purpose, though).

Also, regarding the tool issue, I have a lot of tools; basically the only thing I don't have to do this project is a drill press/rig, but I am hoping I can find someone in the area/on ar15.com who will loan one to me.

@jeopardy98: I didn't mean to say "load clips." I used to not know the difference until about a year ago, but I guess it must have slipped out xD

@endermend: I have heard that 1: Mlocks/Keylocks can come loose easier than a standard rail system. Ik many haven't had an issue with that, but idk if I wanna take a chance.

@majorcollins: Thanks for the reminder, lol. I can get that sorted, though. :)

@everyone mentioning how I should consider getting a 100% stripped lower: Good points, but I would like the experience of not just putting a bunch of parts together, but actually doing something more than that. I know how ridiculous that seems and I know it's dumb for me to try with little experience, but I will plan on getting a cheap lower first, getting experience on that. Who knows...maybe I will do a decent job the first time. I am a guy who pays attention to detail (often too much so) and patience, so that may help me get it done well.

Thanks again for your comments.
-E.B.

@Linc5870: Yeah, I agree with you on getting quality tools. Luckily, my mother has passed down pretty much all the tools in the tool shed to me, which includes things like Stihl & Echo chainsaws (yes, chainsaws lol), a good "chopsaw" (forgot the brand, but it's a quality one), bench-grinder, etc. Skimping on quality tools always ends in regret (I've had my fair share of crappy Harbor Freight tools, most of which are long gone by now xD).

P.S. When does the 2000 character limit end? :/


ETA: I want the gun to be accurate enough that I will know for sure it is human error when I am shooting 100+ yards. I am already a good shot with the guns I have, but I want a gun with good accuracy that I won't have to improve as I improve.

ETA 2: Also I agree I should wait on the scope. When I get one though, I want it to be a good quality one.

What are you mounting? I've seen Mlok take some nasty hits.

Nothing out of the ordinary. I got that view (of Mlocks/Keylocks being slightly weaker than quad-rails It really was just a singular video on comparing different rails by Regular Guy Training. I usually try to corroborate with other sources on the things I research (such as when I researched my barrel), but I guess I got lazy, lol.
Kinda glad you said that, tbh. Mlok rails look better than quads imo xD.

ETA: Can anyone else here attest to the ruggedness of the Mloks?

ETA 2: Another site I came across attesting to the GUNNER barrel's excellence...I think I have locked in on either the 16 or 18 inch GUNNER (leaning toward 18 inch so I can get that rifle-length gas system for even longer gun life)...it just seems like the best of all worlds. My only slight concern is how long the QPQ Nitride coating usually lasts...anyone know? Like 30+ years if taken care of? I know it is good stuff, just curious is all.

I don't think a rifle-length gas system adds any significant life to the barrel/bolt over a mid-length.
As most will tell you, the optimum system is mid-length 14.5 or 16", because it makes for a softer shooting rifle compared to a carbine. But going the extra step to rifle-length...  not sure it's worth it.

Also, QPQ nitride is not a coating. It's a treatment that soaks into the metal.
Watch this video from Faxon, it's really educational.



.

Goo choice on the Magpul ACS stock.  I love mine.  Locks up tight.  Excellent cheek weld, lots of storage, if needed.  Get the Magpul MIAD grip to go with it.  Very versatile with different options for thickness and with or without A2 finger design.

@wheel Thanks for the clarification and the video! I am already watching the video as I type and will probably watch the other Q&As on Faxon. :D

Maybe the rifle-length gas system might not make a significant gun life boost, but until I see evidence to the contrary, I am still leaning toward a rifle.

Thanks. Main reason I liked it was that people say it is a very solid lock and I liked the extra space for a better cheek-weld. The storage compartments was just an extra, awesome plus. Regarding the grip, I already have been considering it...looks good, but wanna research other ones before I lock into it.


ETA: Wow this vid is cool. Loving the QPQ Nitride way more and more every minute of this xD Can't wait to see the barrel Q&A next, especially the part on fluting.

ETA 2: @Endermend/anyone else: What mlok handguard would you recommend for an 18 inch rifle system and why?

ALG EMR. I like the V2 12" the most as the front ramps up to the picatinny rail. My hand fits that like a glove. It's cheap round and well worth the price. It's also thin and light and is made with geissele tools.

How durable is it? Could I drop it on a rock from 4 feet high and not phase it?

Also, @everyone: What mags are the best bang for the buck? I have read C Products are a good value, but I haven't had real-world experience like y'all have... :)

I do t know how to it is. It feels more solid than some of my other rails. It's made by geissele so that should give you an idea of the quality. Dropping it would definitely ring up the rail, but I mean it shouldn't really effect anything.

For mags, I don't have much experience with anything over ten rounds. I have blocked thirties and what not. The only thirties around here are steel or aluminum GI mags and they work.

FWIW:  I am curious about OP's requirement of  "locking" back up sights that "won't get knocked down".

Some of the most highly regarded back ups are designed to knock down on purpose.  That is because back ups when struck are prone to have a point of impact change or to bend or break if they don't retract when struck.   In durability tests, the ones that deflect do better.

For instance, KAC back ups do not lock.  When struck, they deflect.  Many would say that the KAC back ups are the "good standard" for back up sights.

Magpul's MBUS Pro (slim, nitride hardened steel) and their regular MBUS polymer sights also have this feature of being able to deflect when struck.

I consider this a good thing.  I will not run backups that lock in place when deployed.

Food for thought:

https://kitup.military.com/2012/07/back-up-iron-sight-drop-test.html

The author of that test conducted a follow-up test in which he then raised the rifle over his head and slammed it down directly on the MAGPUL backup sight, swinging it like a maul.

The sight remained completely functional and had no change of zero.

This.  Or purchase it in a private sale.  Or wait until you are 21 to buy a lower from an FFL.

Right on!
...I was going to buy just one........and then build one because hey, how cool would that be..............aaand now I have 7 and have two more builds half done........................

Okay, here is my $.02 for what it is worth. First "...... I want this to be the only build I will ever truly need." Yeah, that is a funny one, we all said that at first. DON'T BET ON IT. Once the "Black Rifle Disease" hits, there is no cure. Second, no need to apologize for your word dump, it was nothing, here is mine.

Everything depends on how much you want to spend. I am a "buy once, cry once" kind of guy only because I have made many of the mistakes that first time AR buyers have made but at least my first AR was bought in 2003 so a great many of the new innovations were not available then. You are doing what I currently recommend all new AR buyers should do, build their first one the way they think they want it. Then you are doing what I also recommend all new AR buyers should do next and ask all of us that have made all the mistakes and what we learned from them. I am currently in the middle of 3 builds myself, so here goes. YMMV.

Barrel: Your barrel choice is a good one, big fan of Faxon barrels, for the money they are some of the best out there as far as I am concerned. Two are going on two of my current builds. Might want to reconsider the length and go shorter, lighter and handier. Have a AR with a 18" barrel, an early POF, good rifle but a bit much to lug around, has been relegated to a DMR type rifle.

Lower: Is a full ambi lower of any importance to you? If so I would look at the Rainier Arms billet ambi lower. Have this one for an unassigned build and am pleased with the overall look, finish and quality for the money. Why an ambi lower? They have features that I, as a right handed person really find desirable. My first was my POF, since then all my builds are full ambi, will never go back. YMMV.

Handguard: Get away from the four rail, '90's tech that lasted into the 2000's because of the GWOT, but without it we would not have the options that we now have. Go MLok, Keymod is probably just as good but I cannot abide have little "penises" on my rifle. Just Sayin'... Any good quality MLok handguard will be more than adequate and tough enough for your needs. I like the Geissele MLok handgaurds, one of my buddies is a big fan of SLR Rifleworks but is looking at one of the new BAD RIGIDRAIL's for another build. Plan to put two Geissele's on two of my builds and a 2A Armament on the other. There are plenty of good choices at a variety of price points. As another pointed out, consider the location of QD positions when buyng.

Gas Block: I am going with the Superlative Arms Adjustable Gas Block - Bleed Off - solid, no experience but very highly rated and recommended. See even those of us that have done this a couple of time take others advice. Yes pin it, less to fail later.

Grip and Stock: Probably the least expensive part of the rifle and cannot go really very wrong not matter what you pick. If you don't like you can cheaply change later. Don't dwell.

Sling: Magpul MS4 will more than likely fit your requirements.

Safety Selector: I am a big fan of the AXTS/Radian Weapons Talon safety selector. Like the look and feel of it and no screws to come loose. 45 or 90 degree, your choice.

Iron Sights: As others have asked, why locking? Not a real desirable feature on irons for all the reasons posted. The Knights Armament 600m rear and front sight combo are the only choice in my opinion with the Magpuls as a second choice. Have two of the standard Knights Armament sets and one of the Knights Armament 45 degree offsets. Expensive but as far as I am concerned you cannot go wrong with these. They can follow from rifle to rifle if need be.

Scope: Talk to me after you have some trigger time behind your rifle with irons. I worked for Leupold for almost 18 years in their assembly department so have a lot of insight on rifle optics that many don't. Do not assume I will recommend a Leupold optic, although for some specific applications they do really good, e.g. handgun or rimfire optics and the DeltaPoint Pro is a home run in my opinion. They make one of the best rimfire scopes on the market today but their tactical offerings leave me shopping for other brands. I still know many people that work there and can still get the employee discount but still go to others for tactical and ELR options. Feel free to IM me when you are considering a optic.

Magazines: Either PMAG's or Lancer magazines, cannot go wrong with either one in my opinion. Plan to buy a lot of them and in bulk if possible

Speed loader: Do you plan to use stripper clips? If not then think about it, you can buy stripper clips cheap and load and pack them while watching TV. StripLULA is the only way to go if using stripper clips, I have four of them. Seem to misplace them often and won't be without one so bought one every time one was misplaced. Now have so many that no matter what, can always locate at least one. Not particularly cheap but worth every penny if you don't want to spend a lot of valuable range time loading mags.

Trigger: Lots of excellent triggers out there at all price points. Get a good trigger and that will do more for your shooting than anything else.

Muzzle Device: My only recommendation on this one is do you plan on doing any "stamp collecting" down the road? If so then plan your muzzle device accordingly.

Notice that you have not asked about a upper receiver yet. So many good choices out there. Slick side, forward assist, side charger, Billet, forged, lightweight etc. Not sure that you really need a forward assist anymore but most of mine have them, better to have and not need than need and not have. However one of my builds is a theme build and decided to go slick side on that one. Will see, but many are going the slick side route these days and haven't heard much negative about it. At this point I would recommend that you buy a upper receiver as much on aesthetics and feature set as anything else.  Just Sayin'...

Other parts you missed: You can spend as much, or as little, on small, seemingly insignificant parts as your wallet can handle. Even small things like an ejection port door have many choices out there to choose from. There are a lot of parts that are titanium to shave every gram of weight off their build as possible, but translate into $$$'s. You can spend a surprising amount of money on things like takedown pins, magazine releases, forward assists, trigger pins, etc. Hell, a good charging handle can cost $90, but I wouldn't be without a Raptor charging handle on any of my AR rifles. Do things like this pay off in the long run? Not sure, will tell you when my current builds are done. I would recommend that you buy your springs, detents and the like separately, Fulton Armory is a good source to buy them individually. Then buy a couple more than you need, never hurts to have spares in a parts kit, and there is nothing more aggravating than having that damn spring go shooting across the room and down the heating vent, not to be found. Then trying to locate one last minute on a Sunday when it was the last thing that needed to be done on your build before going to the range with your new toy. Ask me how I know. I now have several parts kits of springs, detents and other commonly lost parts at my work bench and in my range bag at all times for just such emergencies.

There! That is my advise for what it is worth. It was free and all I did was type it out. What you do with it from here is on you. Just Sayin'...

For a trigger id highly suggest a BCM PNT, wont break the bank, but still really smooth and crisp break
For a handguard id suggest Midwest industries. surprised they havent sponsored me yet with how much i say that.
Also for iron sights, ARMS makes really good ones, and theyre designed to be angled and not lock so if struck, wont break

EB

Couple of points I'll throw out there.

Magazines-  I stick to two types  USGI aluminum and PMag.  Hear Lancers are good but I've been using USGI since 83' and PMags since 08' down range.  NC has no magazine limit for hunting.

Uppers-  Since you mentioned hunting and you live in NC where its legal to hunt big game with 5.56 (.22LR too) one thing I like about a Forward Assist is that after climbing up a tree and then pulling up my rifle at O dark thrity is that I can silently close the bolt on a live round wearing gloves.

Lowers-  Have come a long way since I built my first in 88' on a OLY/SGW lower that wouldn't take Theramolds/Pmags.  Also its legal in NC to buy pistols and lowers from a private seller under 21 yo.  Sheriffs office should issue you a Pistol Purchase Permit for handguns, don't think its need for a lower.  Have built 6 ARs recently with Anderson lowers without any issues.  There are other companies that buy Andersons and then do the finial finishing themselves.

A basic 14.5-16" flattop carbine will accomplish 90% of what you want.  Get as much range time as you can to totally understand what you'll want on your next build.  

CD

I built my light weight AR last year (first AR I had ever owned) , I absolutely love it and it is my go to rifle. Original plan was for it to be my only AR...but that was false and I am on to build number 2 now..

Some things I learned along the way:
1) wait for sales, they are your friend. You can almost find anything on sale at some point if you wait long enough
2) Geissele has great triggers and they are a great all around company in general (any of their parts or ALG parts are high quality and reliable)
-I recommend the SSA-E trigger
3) Keep track of how much you are spending, it can add up fast if you aren't careful (I ran into this issue myself)
4) VSeven has some great lightweight products but they are pricy
5)If you can get anything off the PSA website do it, they have great deals and there is nothing wrong with their upper/lower receivers!
6) PMags are my preferred mag, easy to find and worth the price / reliable

any other questions, just ask!

I get what you are trying to do....I too built my one and only....by the end of the year, I'll probably have 3!

So, back to your 1 and only hunting rifle...

For hunting, I hear the you will be shooting from field positions and you will be shooting a few rounds at a time. To add to that, you say 5.56. What will you hunt?

So, let's start here:
Barrel....barrels last a long time at hunting accuracy issues. Barrel life is dictated by the owner. They don't really wear out. The throat erodes from hot gases and the rifling wears down some.  What you will see is that from your first groups...maybe 2 MOA, it will improve to about 1.75 MOA, then it will degrade consistently. So like maybe 3 MOA at 100000 rounds. Now, if you bump fire 5000 rounds as fast as you can, then maybe it goes to 3 MOA in 5000 rounds. With any normal semi-auto fire rate, 3 MOA should take 100000 or so rounds.  Now consider a barrel takes an hourish to replace. They cost $100-$500....all are good. If you want barrel life and decent accuracy I would suggest a chrome lined hammer forged barrel of 4150 steel. I think the Faxon is like this, but nitride or QPQ finished which does the same thing. For the needs you have expressed 95% of barrels will do what you want.

If you decide I missed on your accuracy requirement, there are barrels like WOA for around $250-$300 will get you under 1 MOA, if the rest of the build will do it.

Gas system length - this is really about recoil management. AR's bounce around so much a light trigger will double, due to the rough recoil stroke. Rifle gas on an A2 is quite pleasant. Carbines are rough, but reliable. Therefore they made the mid length. It is pretty smooth for a carbine. Then there are 18" barrels....the milspec was rifle gas, but I have been advised by an expert...he really is...that mid length is best at 18". It could be over gassed, but the heavy rifle buffer will mitigate some. An adjustable gas block will be used on my build to smooth it out. So, my recommendation would be to lean towards over gassed....shorter gas system....to be sure it runs. If you want to smooth it out, try a low mass bcg, low mass buffer and an adjustable gas block.

Weight - To be accurate, you need weight. To be easy to carry, you need light. You decide, but I would stick with a light barrel and standard medium weight components.

Tools - look at the Brownells armorers kit. Do you have those tools? You don't need them all, but you need some. Brownells is where gunsmiths buy tools.

Ease of build - I know people say 80% lowers are easy to finish. They sort of are, but you need a milling machine if you want it to look professional. Please don't flame me. A 100% lower is a good place to start. Even easier is building a lower and selecting an upper. Even easier is buying an upper assy and lower assy. Then slap them together. Still a rough build, especially since you will want some upgrades.


As for 45 deg safeties, dimpled barrels, offset sights, $3000 optics, learn what they are for and decide if you need it. There is a lot of crap for sale for AR's. Avoid much of it!

Just wanted to give y'all a quick update:

First, thanks for all the replies...I have learned a lot (and I LOVE learning xD)!

Second, my updated list of things:
Barrel (Faxon 18" GNR), BCG (Faxon M16), Buttstock (ACS Stock), Grip (MIAD 1.1 Type 1 Grip) are all pretty set-in-stone for me. I am, however, leaning toward a mid-length gas system for the gun, but idk yet.
Handrail: MLOK handrail. Idk what I was thinking with the quadrail...too much weight and bulky. Still need to figure out what brand, though.
Irons: Magpul MBUS Polymer for now. Cheap and robust from what I have found.
Mags: Magpul Gen 3 Pmags with dust covers for storage for dual purpose (keep dust out and keep pressure off feed ramps when there are 28 rounds loaded in)
Loader: Strip Lula or might just build my own out of plywood...idk yet lol.

As for the rest of the parts...the jury is still out. Still researching.

As a plus, a new friend of my bro is willing to shoot some guns with us, which includes his $1700 AR-15. Should be good to see what I like and what I don't.

Again, thanks for the replies. Today I researched magazines, tomorrow maybe rails again and set my brain on something. I'll keep y'all posted.

EB

You should get a Ballistic Advantage 16 inch mid length performance series barrel with pinned low Pro gas block.

ALG would be a good choice for the Handguard

Do you currently own an AR?  If the answer is no, my advice would be to go buy a decent AR and shoot it.  You will learn what works for you and what doesn't.  Then decide on your first build and go from there.  

If you want to dip your toe in the water of building then get some stripped lowers and LPK.  Build up your lower and buy a complete upper for your first rifle.  

I don't see how all the reading and research in the world takes the place of some trigger time.

I like ALG hand guards a lot myself.  I think they hit the sweet spot of performance for price.  I have two I ordered as Blems recently.  I think I paid $75 per hand guard.

Did I miss "upper" somewhere in that list?  

I wouldn't mess with 80% lower for my first build.  Buy an Aero Precision Upper and stripped Lower.  They are good quality but won't break the bank.

+1 to this.  I just bought one of these from Granite Ridge Outfitters (site sponsor) on sale.  Nice looking barrel, and all reports indicate they are nice shooters.

Helps if you read the thread first.  He's 19 and can't purchase a stripped lower.

I did read the thread.  OP clearly mentions 80% lower or Anderson lower.  I suggested an alternate brand of lower.  How do you arrive at being 19 not permitting purchase of stripped lower from this thread?

Also, I still didn't see a mention of an upper.  Lots of details in multiple posts, so perhaps I missed it.

He should be able to buy a stripped lower, I believe that he lives in North Carolina so it should not be an issue. Not sure of the laws in NC but I don't believe they are that strict. As I read his post he merely mentioned that he was 19 and did not state that he was unable to buy one.

From a private party yes, but federally you have to be 21 to buy a stripped lower from an FFL


Sorry for the hijack OP, please keep us updated with your progress!

I wish I could do that, but I don't have money growing on trees here. This Ar I want to build will need to be the gun I stick with for at least about 5 years until I get my business going strong. I will be shooting someone else's Ar soon and might also go to gun ranges and renting some Ar 15s and trying them out when I get the time (aka not for the next few months, lol).

Also, I am the type of guy who doesn't need the "top of the line (insert item here)" and am content with what I have, so long as it isn't breaking down every 2 seconds. A prime example is the car I own: a 1997 Ford Taurus Wagon. It has its issues and sometimes I wish I had a truck too, but I love it anyway and I will keep it until it completely falls apart (and then probably after that, too, lol). My point is, as long as this gun has its most important components at excellent quality (bcg, upper, barrel, charging handle, mags, gas block) I won't care too much if the trigger isn't a titanium 7 stage .006 lb pull with titanium springs or what-have-you. Some components I would LOVE to have (the Magpul stock and grip) and might be willing to spend extra for them simply because of their dual-purpose nature.

So yeah. Pretty much the only reason I don't just get a PSA upper and lower and slap em together is because I want components that I am sure will last a lifetime if properly cared for (and also because of a few other reasons I have said, ofc). Also, I don't want to end up shelling out an extra few $100 to later make the rifle into something more reliable, accurate, etc.

Also, who knows...maybe (probably) shooting a few Ars will change my perspective. I may have done a lot of research, but, like others have said, nothing is as important as actually shooting one or more.

Lol, no problem.

So far, though, my "progress" is just research until some time early next year, probably (or maybe late this year depending on how things go).


Also, I asked this before, but it got lost in all the replies and such: when does this 2000 character limit end? It's annoying for someone who loves to rant like me... xD

ETA: AERO PRECISION - AR-15/M16 STRIPPED UPPER RECEIVER? Looks good. Forged 7075 Aluminum with Type 3 hardcoat anodized finished...cheap too! (cheaper if I wait for sale :D) Y'all's thoughts?

Aero uppers are good to go, and usually can be found for a good price: https://www.righttobear.com/Aero-Precision-Assembled-AR-15-Upper-Receiver-with-p/apar501603a.htm

Is that upper at the link you posted anodized type 3? Can't find it on the page.

ETA: Is there a place to live search many different online stores for a specific item to find the best price? I know one's for ammo exist, but what about rifle parts? Derp: http://arpartsfinder.com/

ETA 2: Seems like that website doesn't really search much...is there a better one?

All of Aero Precisions anodized parts are type 3. Right to Bear is one of my favorite AR parts vendors, and they're pretty active on this website. They also run amazing deals all the time.

Clamp-on or solid gas block? What are the pros and cons of each?

Solid just doesn't have a great joint, so someday, it will come loose. This is delayed by loctite.

Clamp on is better joint. The clamp load is in the bolts and friction area between block and barrel is larger.

If you get a solid, I would pin it wth a taper pin and dimple the barrel. Yhat looks quite secure.

So I am taking it that a clamp on is more secure/less likely to fail? Alright...would have thought the opposite xD

So, what are a few good quality, last-a-lifetime (or at least as long as possible since I know the gas opening does wear down over time) .625" low profile gas blocks at a low price?
I was looking at the Superlative Arms, (Superlative Arms .625" Adjustable Gas Block), but it seems a little pricey; however, I like the Melonite coating and the adjustable aspect, but I don't necessarily need the "adjustable" part of it. If this block will last me a lifetime (or just a lot longer than others) then I am willing to budget it in. I am also more than willing for other suggestions.

I've heard of folks breaking bolts.  Folks break bolts, bolt carriers, and upper & lower receivers when they fire a round into a squib.  Buffer tubes can be bent, but you have to work @ it.  The tube bends before the buffer tube boss breaks if the lower is aluminum.

Ain't never heard of a gas block wearing out.

How many rounds are you planning to put downrange a month?  100? 1000?

I’m sure there are plenty of ARs out there who spend years sitting in a safe (or closer) only to be pulled out and see a few magazines before going back Into storage.  Everyrgungbin this AR will “last a lifetime”.

There are other ARs that see almost daily use.  Their owners perform maintenance and replace parts.

By the time you wear out a gas block I would imagine

Yes, definitely. Re: drop. Easily.

A barrel that comes with a pinned gas block will ensure that u have easier gas block alignment... though moving gas blocks arent a big issue when done correctly.  I like the BA Hansons, not because of this, but it is a bonus imo.  When using reg gas blocks I'll make a divot for screws but it's not as foolproof as pounding a pin into a predrilled hole.  Faxon might have some that come like this, too.  Those are two very popular brands for builds with people advocating for whichever they own themselves, even if they don't own the other - as is human nature.  I think ba are better but I don't own a faxon lol.

With respect these aren't good choices.

BCM PNT is 65 bucks and nothing special.   Spend an extra 50 or 60 and get a g2s on sale or use the one in ur lpk that is basically functionally the same as the bcm.   It's like paying 50% of price of the G trigger for 5% of the benefit.

MI Is a good company but their bbl nut system is weak so they're non grata for rails til they fix it.  Speaking from experience..

ARMS? Nahhhhhhh.  Kac, magpul or DD - if you want fixed.  

OP, don't spend money on fancy little parts like ambi safeties etc. Put that money towards trigger, barrel, bcg.

If you're planning on using an optic from the gate, buy a good trigger or flashlight or sling instead of backup sights, or up ur budget for optic.

Take all the money u were gonna spend on lil fad parts and put it towards gucci trigger & optic