$35

$50

Worth it?

ETA:  Just revisited this thread and discovered the EP Armory is down to $35.

For one, maybe two, possibly. I'd spend a little more and stick with a solid jig that can turn out 15-20 personally.

@ $40, I could almost afford to give away jigs w/ EP Armory's $15 plastic 80%.

I ordered the $40 jig. I'll update when I try it out.

That New Frontier jig is a carbon copy of the Anderson jig. Anderson sells it for $60 with all the drill bits you need.
https://andersonmanufacturing.com/product/andersons-80-jig/

I have one and it works good enough but the top plates are basically disposable after doing 2 lowers, luckily Anderson sells extras and I made my own out of harder steel that last longer.

Any of them that have the upper plates made out of aluminum, will not hold up, you will have to keep replacing them at $10 to $20 each to replace, it is best to find something with a thicker steel plate on top, I have owned several of them and the all aluminum ones wear out quick, even if you don't nick them with the bits, but even rubbing them with the smooth surface of the bit will change the shape of the fire control group pocket.

Range tool...

Get a $40 80% 7075 add the router based/Mill jig for $35

http://www.rangetool.com/store/index.php/80-lower/ar15-lower-80percent.html

I've got the Modulus HD jig...  Worth the money.  I've done a whole bunch of lowers and it is still good as new.

That EP aluminum jig has been GTG for me.  I've made two lowers with it and a Harbor Freight trim router so far and it still looks like there's no wear and will make several more.  The hole locations have been accurate and I haven't had any problems installing parts afterwards.

One thing I had to do is drive the alignment pin that goes in the mag release hole in a bit so that the jig would close properly on my 80% lowers, so if your top plate doesn't align with the sides you may have to do the same.

I start with a 5/16" hole drilled on a drill press nearly to final depth in the trigger opening location, and then use a 1/4" HSS straight router bit in that hole and gradually take away the material that needs to go.  I mill without much force because it gives me better control and a nicer cut, use transmission fluid for cutting oil, and clean my chips frequently (and check my depth of cut with a combo square every time I clean chips).  Be sure that the router bit is set so that the smooth portion of the shank rides against the top plate or your jig is toast.  It takes me around three hours to mill a lower but I don't mind because my time's free.

This^^^^

Also use the proper 1/4" mill. The 6mm ones from China will slide out and make your trigger slot go diagonal and about 1-1/2" long.

I'd save up for a nicer jig like the Modulus or maybe the new 80% Arms or 5D jigs.

I've got the Modulus HD jig and it is well worth the money.

Bump.  Just discovered the EP Armory jig is down to $35.

I'm aware of what is the best.  My budget rarely runs to Cadillacs.  I look for the best bang for the buck; if it's a $5 lower, I'll take it.

Is a $35 jig completely unusable, or not a bad buy for the price?  This is getting into stocking stuffer territory.

I have and still use the original 80% router jig set with took kit.  It is sturdy and turns out a reliable product.