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Posted: 7/13/2017 10:31:45 AM EDT
[#1]
You risk damage.
But you already know that. 
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Posted: 7/13/2017 10:44:43 AM EDT
[#2]
It really depends on how far you have to turn it to time it.
And it depends on how stiff your crush washer is- stiffness varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. I've had some that got really tough to turn after only about a quarter turn and some that went almost a full turn and the washer seemed to crush really easily. (assuming you are using a crush washer and not shims) If you don't have to turn it any farther than about 180 degrees and you don't have a super stiff washer you'll probably be fine and won't have to worry about shearing your index pin assuming the barrel nut was properly torqued. But as always- proceed at your own risk! Do you have a Magpul BEV block? Using that instead of a clamshell will transfer some of the load off of the barrel extension index pin. From Magpul's description of the BEV block: "The BEV Block (Barrel Extension Vise) is an all-in-one, compact vise block tool for AR15/M4 assembly operations of barrel nuts, flash hiders, etc." |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 11:18:17 AM EDT
[#3]
Yeah, thanks to you both. I think I'll eval it during install and if it starts to get tight, i may just have to not be lazy.
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Posted: 7/13/2017 12:07:42 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Hey everyone, So I have installed a free float handguard which makes it difficult to access the naked barrel or even the upper receiver. To be lazy and not dismount the handguard, would it be harmful to install (and time) the A2 FS with a lower receiver block ?? I already know (ass u me) the answers I'm about to receive, but it never hurts to ask. Thanks all, Usurp... |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 1:25:51 PM EDT
[#5]
I would take the free float off and use barrel blocks put the MD on, then reinstall the free float, then you don't run the risk of causing damage.
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Posted: 7/13/2017 1:36:56 PM EDT
[#6]
Use a Geissele Reaction Rod or similar device to hold the barrel from the chamber side. No stress on the barrel pin and you don;t have to remove the handguard.
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Posted: 7/13/2017 3:45:38 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Use a Geissele Reaction Rod or similar device to hold the barrel from the chamber side. No stress on the barrel pin and you don;t have to remove the handguard. Two blocks of wood, remove handguard, few minutes of your time... Priceless! 
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Posted: 7/13/2017 3:52:38 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hmm, Geissele Reaction Rod = $99 Two blocks of wood, remove handguard, few minutes of your time... Priceless! |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 5:32:54 PM EDT
[#9]
Thanks for the replies everyone. Just to close the loop, handguards are coming off and the barrel blocks are going on. Lazy == $$
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Posted: 7/13/2017 10:48:27 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would take the free float off and use barrel blocks put the MD on, then reinstall the free float, then you don't run the risk of causing damage. While is HAS been done before with a Reaction Rod, Bev block, etc... it's not the right way to do it (and there have been horror stories of doing such). I have yet to hear ONE horror story of doing it the right way (barrel blocks), because it's impossible as you are not stressing anything. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 4:05:37 PM EDT
[#11]
Heard of any one shearing an index pin with Bev-Block?
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Posted: 7/15/2017 5:24:27 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Heard of any one shearing an index pin with Bev-Block? |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 6:28:35 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yup Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Heard of any one shearing an index pin with Bev-Block? |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 6:32:37 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, but not for awhile now. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 7:45:08 PM EDT
[#15]
Why go straight to the lower receiver block in the OP, instead of an upper receiver block? That would be the better half measure, heh.
Just curious, lol, even though i see you are planning on using bbl block now. |
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Posted: 7/15/2017 9:16:36 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You are correct, but I just don't understand why people keep trying to re-invent the wheel, barrel blocks have been in use for a long time now and they are very easy to make for just about no cost. Doing it right is now considered "old school" mentality. Step one and straight to done. |
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Posted: 7/25/2017 9:43:35 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the replies everyone. Just to close the loop, handguards are coming off and the barrel blocks are going on. Lazy == $ |
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Posted: 7/26/2017 9:38:32 AM EDT
[#18]
A barrel block is easily made by using a short piece of 2x4 wood, drilling a barrel diameter hole through it and then cutting the 2x4 in half splitting the hole in the middle. I then use some old leather pieces to line the halves of the drilled hole. Clamp both pieces in your bench block with your rifle and install your FH. I find that for Indexing that it is best to tighten then back off then tighten again repeating this process until the FH is indexed correctly.
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Posted: 7/26/2017 10:44:20 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A barrel block is easily made by using a short piece of 2x4 wood, drilling a barrel diameter hole through it and then cutting the 2x4 in half splitting the hole in the middle. I then use some old leather pieces to line the halves of the drilled hole. Clamp both pieces in your bench block with your rifle and install your FH. I find that for Indexing that it is best to tighten then back off then tighten again repeating this process until the FH is indexed correctly. I never do this. Steady and constant crush until aligned. |
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Posted: 7/26/2017 12:41:22 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A crush washer is not designed to be be tightened/loosened/tightened. I never do this. Steady and constant crush until aligned. |
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