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Posted: 5/4/2012 9:48:49 AM EDT
[#1]
Expanding on your idea of using a cotter pin into the buffer, what about putting a pin right here:
You would compress the lever, then drill your hole that way it will drill through the black insert that catches the holes in the buffer. Then when you want to bump fire you need to compress the lever, insert pin, and you are ready. I would pin it with a detent pin. |
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Posted: 5/4/2012 12:03:56 PM EDT
[#2]
There is a pin already in place there, it was just removed for the picture.
Ok, here is what I did. I milled out the buffer tube holes and the stock now slides back and forward to a point and stops. Also, the little dowel thing in the stock that locks into the buffer tube was too long. Basically, when you would try to open it up all the way to initially get it onto the stock, it would hit the bar that was screwed into the stock. So what I did was dremiled the dowel down just a bit so it wouldn't interfere with the bar on the stock when pulling it down all the way. The end result was perfect. I guess I could have just put the stock on without the bar, and then attached the bar, but I did not want to have to do that. I wanted it quickly and easily removable. Also, since I milled out the holes, the stock can not lock into place where it sits, so I am going to do the cotter pin idea, just encase I want to lock it into position. Pics and videos to come once they are uploaded. |
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Posted: 5/4/2012 1:22:02 PM EDT
[#4]
F-ing brilliant.
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Posted: 5/4/2012 1:26:45 PM EDT
[#5]
Have the buffer tube length adjustment milled out so that the detent in the stock keeps it on the tube but won't lock up, just slide freely back and forth in the area that the position holes are. problem easily solved, don't over think things.
Also, thank you for your idea USMC2147 it worked wonders. |
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Posted: 5/4/2012 1:45:55 PM EDT
[#6]
You should update your first post to show the new design. I just referred a few guys at the shooting range to check out what your making, but they most likely wont go through all 5 pages.
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Posted: 5/4/2012 2:21:34 PM EDT
[#7]
Please excuse my horrible MS paint skill but when I first read this I began thinking of how I would do my own. I kinda took you idea and ran with it. In the fist pic, it would be a metal flat bar just like your but the bar would run flat and parallel to a pistol buffer. The flat bar would have holes drilled in it that would allow me to use my different positions on a collapsible stock. The second pic is a crude design of what I would put inside the grip. A retaining block would be bolted in place of the grip with different level grooves cut into it. Another block inside the grip is adjustable and would slide into it. At position 1 it would reciprocate like a slide fire and push it all the way forward and lock the slide inside the grip up into position 2 for semi fire. Of course on the bolt release side it would have the finger rest for the side fire action. If i had the extra parts to use I would have done this already, I think it will work.
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Posted: 5/4/2012 2:22:03 PM EDT
[#8]
OP, your idea beats the crap outta mine!
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Posted: 5/4/2012 3:35:37 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
There is a pin already in place there, it was just removed for the picture. Ah right... I knew that hole was there for a reason lol. I completely forgot about that pin. |
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Posted: 5/4/2012 3:42:14 PM EDT
[#10]
Nice work dude! You have inspired me.
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Posted: 5/4/2012 3:45:16 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:snip
This post just gave me an idea on how to do a clean adjustable LOP bump fire stock... Basically use a regular buffer tube and mill out the front of it so a bar would fit down inside the channel with the holes, making it clean looking (the same contour of your first picture). The bar would have a stud pointing towards the stock and the stock would have a slot cut in it so you can adjust a few inches of LOP. Then you could mill between two slots on the buffer tube just like brodband8 did, and tap the flat steel in the channel in the right spot where you could put a bolt into it. Then you could tighten it for a fixed regular stock (and loosen the first stud to allow LOP adjustment) or loosen the bolt and it would allow it to slide freely for bump firing. Did that make sense? Its kinda hard to explain. |
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Posted: 5/4/2012 6:27:36 PM EDT
[#12]
Fucking brilliant.
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Posted: 5/4/2012 9:47:28 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted: Fucking brilliant. Absolutely! |
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Posted: 5/4/2012 11:13:33 PM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
Have the buffer tube length adjustment milled out so that the detent in the stock keeps it on the tube but won't lock up, just slide freely back and forth in the area that the position holes are. problem easily solved, don't over think things.
Also, thank you for your idea USMC2147 it worked wonders. You're most welcome, I have a knack for this stuff. Let us know how it performs? |
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Posted: 5/5/2012 1:58:40 AM EDT
[#15]
I will man, the place I shoot at is personal land, but it's over 60 miles away, so as soon as I have some time to get out there I will.
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Posted: 5/5/2012 2:00:00 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Quoted:snip
This post just gave me an idea on how to do a clean adjustable LOP bump fire stock... Basically use a regular buffer tube and mill out the front of it so a bar would fit down inside the channel with the holes, making it clean looking (the same contour of your first picture). The bar would have a stud pointing towards the stock and the stock would have a slot cut in it so you can adjust a few inches of LOP. Then you could mill between two slots on the buffer tube just like brodband8 did, and tap the flat steel in the channel in the right spot where you could put a bolt into it. Then you could tighten it for a fixed regular stock (and loosen the first stud to allow LOP adjustment) or loosen the bolt and it would allow it to slide freely for bump firing. Did that make sense? Its kinda hard to explain. I had to read it a few times before I understood, but that sounds like it would be awesome! If you do this, keep us updated. |
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Posted: 5/5/2012 4:35:21 AM EDT
[#17]
Not interested in one personally, but love the ingenuity showing up here now from everyone. Subbed.
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Posted: 5/5/2012 7:23:00 AM EDT
[#18]
How does it come back forward after recoil? The inertia from the bolt closing?
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Posted: 5/5/2012 7:25:58 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
How does it come back forward after recoil? The inertia from the bolt closing? You push forward with your hand that is holding the hand guard. |
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Posted: 5/6/2012 7:32:15 AM EDT
[#20]
Apparently I think about this in my sleep. My girlfriend told me this morning that I was yelling in my sleep about sanding a butt stock or pistol grip.
She said I straight up had a conversation with her about it. I do not recall this at all. Anyways, updates are soon to come, with hopefully a 98 percent finished product. Just waiting on my other MIAD to get here. I did sand and paint the bar flat black while I've been waiting. |
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Posted: 5/6/2012 8:16:06 AM EDT
[#21]
Just some pics with the bar painted. I radiused the corners of the bar to make it look and feel better.
Second pic shows awesome shot of underwear! I totally knew it was there the whole time! Just getting in some Hanes advertising that's all.
Also, the last pic with flash on shows where I sanded the butt stock. I am going to touch it up once I can get some FDE paint to match the stock. 
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Posted: 5/6/2012 7:37:27 PM EDT
[#22]
Great Job Broadband8! I only have only dial up internet, I am in the woods to far from the Cable. I cant watch youtube and I will eventually figure out the basic operation idea of bump fire basic's. I know Ebay now has a contender to the bump fire leader. I know the seller says it is made for only single shot applications but it looks very close to the other brand.
Patents work out only if there is a direct copy? For people to get funny over a handy design that in my opinion looks much better than the major 360 dollar stock, I could almost get a upper for that price. It is cheap, and is in my price range. I would like to thank you for Ideas, you did a great job. Nice AR by the way. Keep it up!
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Posted: 5/6/2012 10:16:10 PM EDT
[#23]
Thanks, but the rifle in the pics is my friend Kyles. He was so nice to let me use it because mine is setup a little differently than his making his easier to test the bumpstock with. Also, ebay has a slidefire clone? Tell me more.
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Posted: 5/7/2012 8:18:47 PM EDT
[#24]
OP
You might be able to do Kydex on sides of the the grip and not the metal? Great idea, looks great ETA: or just use Kydex to go around the grip and attache that to the metal bar to the stock. This could negate the MAID grip cutting. |
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Posted: 5/8/2012 1:32:01 AM EDT
[#25]
Here are some pics of it pretty much finished. I test fired it today, and it worked GREAT. Also, my shotgun and AR. lol
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Posted: 5/9/2012 7:36:21 AM EDT
[#26]
I also tapped the holes I drilled in the side of the pistol grip and used heli coils just to make sure they would not strip out.
I also threw in some lock tight and they tighten down solid. More videos to come of the thing in action. Hopefully the 100 round tracer dump at night. |
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Posted: 5/9/2012 8:12:12 AM EDT
[#27]
I like it. You did a good job on that. I like building thins myself also. Many times I've spent even more money building something than I could have went out and bought it for, but I just get more
satisfaction knowing I built it myself. Cant wait to see the next one. Thanks for sharing! |
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Posted: 5/9/2012 9:46:11 AM EDT
[#28]
More power to you man , that's awesome
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Posted: 5/9/2012 9:48:56 AM EDT
[#29]
Honestly, the amount of money I put into it was:
$25- used Magpul MOE butt stock $30- Magpul MIAD $3.49- 8 Gauge bar from Lowes $1.50- for the two hex bolts and lock nuts used to secure the rod to the butt stock $7.99- for the box of assorted 4-40 button head screws that I used on the pistol grip The rest of the stuff I had laying around, such as the extra MIAD I used to cut the finger rest from and such. All in all I spent about 67 dollars and some change. The only other thing I have to do, which is going to be more expensive, is to get another lower, so I don't have to mess with mine, and drill and tap some threads into the safety detent hole. As it sits currently, I have the safety removed because there is no way for the detent to be held in place. It is fine for now, just as long as you make sure to be safe and only put rounds in the gun when ready to fire. The lower I have my mindset on is the spikes tactical Zombie lower. Even with that, which is only like $115 dollars, plus an FFL transfer fee if you want to get technical, I will be $212.00 deep including the 30 dollar transfer fee, and i'll have a whole second lower. Still close to $150 cheaper than a Slide Fire. |
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Posted: 5/9/2012 2:40:06 PM EDT
[#30]
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/395777_Simple_fix_for_the_rear_takedown_detent_spring_blues____.html
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Posted: 5/9/2012 2:54:22 PM EDT
[#31]
yep, going to do the same thing with the safety detent hole.
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Posted: 5/9/2012 5:40:09 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/395777_Simple_fix_for_the_rear_takedown_detent_spring_blues____.html For some reason that link doesn't work for me, what is it about? Is it about tapping for a 4-40 set screw? Awesome work, OP! I owned a slidefire for awhile, but only used it without much success on my M&P 15-22. Now that I have a 5.56 AR I wish I still had one, and this seems like a much more cost effective method. Thanks so much for sharing! 
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Posted: 5/14/2012 10:58:53 AM EDT
[#33]
Any updates......you have definetly peeked my interest. I have a slidefire on the way (should arrive today actually) but I like the looks of having my magpul stuff.
I am starting a similar project based on what you have done and some of the things that others have mentioned. I have a small lathe, so last night I chucked up an extra mil-spec 5 position buffer tube and machined the bottom rib off of it. I now have a nice tube that my stock slides on very nicely, and the rectangle shaped groove in the stock now has room for a piece of steel or aluminum to be embedded into it that will ride in the void where the rib of the stock used to be. The only trouble is there are currently no stops to lock the stock onto the gun. I will worry about that later. I have a Miad grip coming too. When I just play with my (nowhere near complete) grip and stock, I find that my finger will get pinched near the trigger guard, did you do something to eliminate this? Good work by the way! |
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Posted: 5/14/2012 11:34:22 AM EDT
[#34]
I will be uploading more videos soon to show the progress.
I also had finger pinching issues so I made a ski to eliminate that. Pics: 
Also, since the ski I made is attached to the MIAD front strap, it is removable and replaceable with a normal one without a strap. |
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Posted: 5/14/2012 2:36:08 PM EDT
[#35]
Nice work.........
Do you think aluminum would work for the connector? I would like to try a store bought piece of 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum. Just not sure if it would flex or not. |
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Posted: 5/14/2012 3:01:59 PM EDT
[#36]
It should work, but the reason I did not use Aluminum was because
it felt like it would bend too easily, and I didn't want it to be able to bend when using it. |
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Posted: 5/14/2012 3:43:08 PM EDT
[#37]
I did not read all 6 pages of this so if I'm repeating what has already been said, I'm sorry in advance.
I purchased a Slide Fire stock for the AR. Yes it was expensive. I feel that a good portion of that cost paid for the BATF letter that comes with the stock. Even though a homemade bump fire stock that works like the Slide Fire should be in spirit covered by the BATF finding, it's not something I'd care to stake my freedom against. Joe |
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Posted: 5/14/2012 4:26:28 PM EDT
[#38]
OP thanks for all the photos. Can't wait to see the vid. You got me interested in building myself.
Quoted:
I did not read all 6 pages of this so if I'm repeating what has already been said, I'm sorry in advance. I purchased a Slide Fire stock for the AR. Yes it was expensive. I feel that a good portion of that cost paid for the BATF letter that comes with the stock. Even though a homemade bump fire stock that works like the Slide Fire should be in spirit covered by the BATF finding, it's not something I'd care to stake my freedom against. Joe Heh, you could probably download the letter of the internet. The letter isn't unique to the product only, it also applies to the functionality of the stock which is exactly what the OP is mimicking. |
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Posted: 5/14/2012 4:50:35 PM EDT
[#39]
Two reasons why I did not purchase the Slide Fire stock.
1.) It's too damn expensive. 2.) It's ugly as hell. I wanted to make one for cheap within reason, yet maintain the look of my other lowers, which all are Magpul. I succeeded. Also, I printed that form out. It's completely universal. |
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Posted: 5/14/2012 4:53:44 PM EDT
[#40]
Also, there are three companies that I know of that make bump fire stocks for the AR.
1.) Slide Fire 2.) Fostech's Bumpski 3.) Cobra Bump fire Stock All 3 are over $350 dollars, and none of them are "pretty" |
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Posted: 5/14/2012 5:28:22 PM EDT
[#41]
Quoted:
Also, I printed that form out. It's completely universal. Not true. The letter states that since THEIR design does not alter the fire control group it is not a machine gun (the condensed version). Since the BATF did not examine your stock, the letter does not cover your stock. Joe |
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Posted: 5/14/2012 5:50:12 PM EDT
[#42]
Right, their design, and neither does mine.
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Posted: 5/14/2012 6:47:12 PM EDT
[#43]
Quoted:
Right, their design, and neither does mine. Exactly(and while the previous poster was correct that the BATF did not inspect your stock, it fits the description exactly) , and no where in the letter does it say the words "SSAR", or the company name or any other unique identifying marks, so as long as your model fits the design it would appear to be kosher. If handed that paper, there would be no reason to doubt that your stock is legal. |
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Posted: 5/15/2012 4:19:41 AM EDT
[#44]
You know what, when I do this, I could make the little trigger guard wing out of Kydex easy-peasy.
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Posted: 5/16/2012 6:06:17 AM EDT
[#45]
Quoted: yep, going to do the same thing with the safety detent hole. This might be difficult as most of the length of the safety detent spring is housed within the grip, not the receiver. How does the name-brand stock deal with this issue? |
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Posted: 5/16/2012 6:25:46 AM EDT
[#46]
They have a specific part that looks like the top half of a grip that goes in place......then the molded part of the over sized grip of the stock slides over it.
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Posted: 5/16/2012 5:57:37 PM EDT
[#47]
Eh, snip the spring and adjust tention with the screw. Or if you really wanted to you could take an a2 cut and shave it down and screw it on, open up your primary pistol grip so that it slides on cut down and shaved A2. I think tapping the pin hole would be easier.
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Posted: 5/16/2012 7:29:11 PM EDT
[#48]
Quoted:
What's funny about all of this, is that I saved 350 dollars doing this, and will probably spend way more in ammo for sure. So far I have only shot like 150 rounds or so through it, but can see way more rounds coming. The rifle in this video was not mine, it was my friend Kyle's. I needed one with a removable butt stock, as my AR has the Magpul M93 on it. I didn't want to drill into that stock by any means. This is going to sound kind of odd, but I am going to end up buying a second lower, so I can just keep my bump fire stock on that, and switch out lowers when I want to shoot single shot. That is the main reason I am making another stock, so that I can make sure it looks and works as I would like. Hopefully for the next video I'm thinking, CMAG full of tracers, SPR/M4, and night time shooting. You might consider getting a 5.45 X 39 upper. I like the Russian round so I bought a S&W M&P AR15 in that caliber, and I've saved an awful lot of money in ammo. I was getting 1,080 rounds for $120, though what I've seen lately is more like $150 for the 1,080 round spam cans. I was suprised how accurate it is, and the only complaint is some of it is corrossive, so you need to clean it after every range session. With the chrome chamber and barrel I haven't seen any problems anywhere. |
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Posted: 5/16/2012 8:38:07 PM EDT
[#49]
A little late to this thread. Seems pretty cool but damn my wallet can't handle all that ammo being dumped!
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Posted: 5/17/2012 9:16:49 AM EDT
[#50]
Quoted:
Eh, snip the spring and adjust tention with the screw. Or if you really wanted to you could take an a2 cut and shave it down and screw it on, open up your primary pistol grip so that it slides on cut down and shaved A2. I think tapping the pin hole would be easier. The issue is that the detent is so long that there is only room for about thee coils of spring, and that's with the detent in as far as it will go. I've seen someone do the threading "mod" and use a 1/8 ball bearing as the detent, which allows for some room for the spring. I would go that route. |
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