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I'm working on it still, I am still not sure which stock I want to mate it to.
I was thinking something cheap, that had surface area to mount it to. Something like the Magpul MOE or something. I have an extra CTR laying around, but the locking latch is in the way. |
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Nice work!
I wonder if this would work with a .22 upper? That would surely save some ammo money... |
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Not entirely sure. That is something I can test once it is done.
I still have to modify a lower so that the safety detent is enclosed. I wanted to make sure the entire pistol grip moves freely as the lower basically has built in rails for it to ride in. |
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Not a bad idea, there is a lot of flat surface to mount it to also.
How do you mean to screw it in? I was thinking the screws would interfere with the buffer tube. |
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I actually like the look of that stock.
Ok I see what you mean now... This stock is meant to be a solid stock like an A2. I'm not sure that will work too well because the bolt carrier has to go in and out at just the right angle otherwise you can get miss feeds from short cycling and so on. |
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What I was saying about your idea is that I do not think it would work. If you put a longer screw in from the rear,
now the buffer tube has play in it, so the bolt carrier might not ride freely. I know my buffer tube has to be completely straight in line with my upper, otherwise my Adams Arms bolt carrier gets stuck and causes issues. |
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Quoted:
What I was saying about your idea is that I do not think it would work. If you put a longer screw in from the rear, now the buffer tube has play in it, so the bolt carrier might not ride freely. I know my buffer tube has to be completely straight in line with my upper, otherwise my Adams Arms bolt carrier gets stuck and causes issues. You're still lost... the rifle length buffertube screws into the lower receiver. The stock goes around the buffertube. The stock is secured on the buffertube by a screw that passes through the stock buttpad into the end of the buffertube. If the screw that secures the stockbody to the buffertube is not completely tightened, the stock will move back and forth. The buffertube is completely secured the entire time, so bolt carrier tilt or problems with the bolt carrier would never be encountered. Try to get your hands on an A1 or A2 stock kit and you will see what I am talking about. |
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I like this idea. However, I'm not sure how you plan for the rifle to 'bump' fire when you are going to bend the piece of metal to fit on an MOE stock. I'd think you'd need something straighter like the longer one above, to provide a better bumping motion.
I am just having a hard time picture it at this moment. |
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Hey OP, how are you making sure the stock doesnt fall off, and the detent and spring for the selector stay in?
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So yeah turns out it's just in most countries where infringement has to be commercial. Here in the states non-commercial reproduction and use technically counts as infringement. The chances of actually getting sued as an individual engaged in non-commercial infringement are, as a side note, quite low.
To everyone asking about if a .22 will work: there's nothing that would cause this design to work with .22 uppers any better than the slide-fire stock. The SF stock will work with the M&P 15-22 because it's mostly polymer so it's very lightweight, meaning .22 recoil will have more of an effect on it. Most .22 uppers are just too heavy for the principle to work. |
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I like how option #2 is out of the way.
One improvement I'd make is a rail system to let the grip slide on. That way you aren't relying only on the rod to keep the grip from coming off. Maybe could slot the grip screw area or something, but it mounts at an angle.... Short of a machine shop.... I guess you could dig around a hardware store... never know what you might find. maybe just a horizontally mounted pin would do it. If you plan on a design #3, maybe make a push button adjustment in the bar so the stock can be lengthened. Just throwing thoughts out there. Looks like alot of good fun. |
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I am not sure what you mean by a rail system. If you are referring to the backstrap on the grip, it already
has a rail system. Is that what you mean? I dremilled out the back strap just a hair so the screw heads that are screwed into the pistol grip clear the back strap when you slide it on. |
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At Grim: to stop the detent and spring from coming out for the safety, I am going to tap, and
thread the lower to allow for a set screw, and cut the detent in half to allow for some more space to install the spring. |
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Wulfie, the bar does not have to be straight to allow the rifle to bump fire.
All that has to move is the pistol grip, and the buttstock. Together these can be tied together using that bar, and as long as the bar itself doesn't move, then it will work regardless of the shape. |
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Gun_Fanatic: Also, now I understand what you mean by a rail idea. I actually thought about that
myself earlier, but to add a rail system, I would have to cut the pistol grip out to allow the rail that would be attached to the lower to slide in and out, which would make the grip weaker. As it sits now, I am going to be using a very short rod, which is a very strong steel, and can really only be bent using a breaker bar. I mean, I am a pretty strong guy, and it would take HELL to bend it with how short it is. Though I am sure there will be some up and down play when it is installed, due to the clearances that will be between the buffer tube and butt stock, I don't think it will be noticeable when firing. |
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maleante: I see what you mean now. Yes that could work, but I wanted
to keep the look off a collapsible stock. Sounds like it could work, and work well. Give it a shot? Just find a way to mount a grip to your A2 stock or whichever solid stock you want to use and let me know how it turns out. That Chinese knockoff thing would work really good if we could get our hands on one. It pretty much resembles a Slide Fire stock already. |
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I'd go with the straight bar, as in the first pic. I think that too many bends will just cause you grief. There was a thread on tapping the receiver for the rear take-down pin retainer, and I think a few folks tried to tap the hole for the safety retainer. I don't think that they had great results, you may want to search for that thread.
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I probably will go with the straight bar as it is the simplest.
Also, I think I know which thread you are talking about, the thing that I remember was that they used a ball bearing instead. I'm just going to stick to cutting the detent, and using a shorter spring. Shouldn't be too hard. |
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Man I love you idea because it will look way better than the original IMO and I happen to have a CTR laying around and spare grip myself. I have no need for a bump fire style stock but sure will be fun shooting once in awhile . I believe I shall build one myself just to play with from time to time. Wished I had a CNC machine I'd build a complete billet setup.
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Quoted:
Alright bud, calm down. I thought the idea up and created it, in less than 24 hours total. I saved 350 bucks, and had a lot of fun. Are you not understanding this? Also I have NO plans to sell this. It may be ugly, but it works, and it works just fine. Wait till you see the second one. You have NO idea how much better it is going to be. As I said, just trying to have some fun, no illegal intentions whatsoever, private use only. +1 man. I have a buddy who owns the slide fire stock, and while it is cool they are expensive! Creative idea for personal use, I'm interested to see you make something more refined now that you know you can do it. Slide fire is really silly in my mind, as others have said to. I can place more effective rounds then my bud with his slide fire. We did a side by side time test. Every miss adding x penalty, That dose not take away people having there fun! I sure would never pay over 300$ for it, so building one is cool. Patent or not, you don't intend to sell these as I gather. |
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i searched for several hours and could not find a single case of an individual who was forced to comply with a c&d order for something (anything) made for personel use with no intent or attempt to market the product.... ford was unable to stop chevrolet from developing a v8 engine because chevrolet never sold their v8 until fords patent was no longer applicable , but.. chevrolet was building and IMPROVING the v8 for years. ford sufferd no finacial loss so there was no infringment. if u research patents u will find an untold number that are granted for an IMPROVEMENT on an existing patent. if inventors had to wait years untill a patent was expired to try and improve upon it or the DIY guys who enjoy tinkering were made to pay someone for something they built we would all be screwed ... who would even try if ur gonna get sued ? yes u can patent an idea that leads to a product....does that mean the patent holder can have a c&d order sent to me if i think about his idea...?
and .... if it comes to it i will contribute gladly and generously to your legal fund if u r sued for the stock that u made for your PERSONAL use sorry for the mini rant ....got up to early and stayed up to late : ) john ps i have bought 1 sfs stock new and 1 used ...and i have made 2 for my own use and for my grandson.. this thread has given me and inspiration to build a 3rd so im goin' to the garage right now... thanx for posting about your DIY slidefire TYPE stock . i guess i gotta worry about the patent office jbt's com'n after me now |
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LOL, I have a drawing of something very similar to what you created. I think it's awesome! You sir have the riggin gene. Congrats
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Props the the OP for your ingenuity and execution. Looking forward to seeing your Gen 2 version here.
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I know what you mean, most of the fun is in the garage pounding stuff out....good job
Quoted:
Alright bud, calm down. I thought the idea up and created it, in less than 24 hours total. I saved 350 bucks, and had a lot of fun. Are you not understanding this? Also I have NO plans to sell this. It may be ugly, but it works, and it works just fine. Wait till you see the second one. You have NO idea how much better it is going to be. As I said, just trying to have some fun, no illegal intentions whatsoever, private use only. |
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Nicley done op! I think the $350 price tag on the original makes me want to build my own also.
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I think what you've done there is pretty neat. Bump firing isnt for everyone. But it has its moments like you mentioned. (friends, family––––to show it off as something different once in a great while) nothing wrong with that.
I say keep going man. Screw people. If you enjoy working on this kinda stuff do it. Who cares how much time you've put into it. In the end if you enjoyed your time spent on the project I say its a success. you're doing something i couldnt do. Edit: And i think the "lecture" guy just likes to see his pretty little words on the screen whos bustin' balls now! lol ..all in fun |
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This made my morning; great work! DIY is where it's at.
Thanks for sharing - looking forward to Gen 2! |
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Also, if you can't tell already, this stock will not lock in place. I removed the actual dowel that is spring loaded and pushes into the buffer tube position holes.
Until I can figure out how to work that, but for now, it's fine. I'm thinking about just drilling some holes into the bottom part of the buffer tube (not where the spring is) and just drilling a pin hole into the stock so you can place a cotter pin or something to lock it into place. A new video is uploading, so should be up soon. I still think this think looks WAY better than the Slide Fire. |
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looks amazing. good work. Im trying to figure how to do this with normal ar15 m4 stocks and grips.
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Quoted:
Also, if you can't tell already, this stock will not lock in place. I removed the actual dowel that is spring loaded and pushes into the buffer tube position holes. Until I can figure out how to work that, but for now, it's fine. I'd thread a bolt into the stock right behind the adjustment lever with a small piece of flat steel that has a hole drilled offset from center. Then to use it as a bumpstock you would compress the lever, slide the flat steel ontop the lever, and when you let go of the lever, the flat steel will keep it from decompressing. The only downside of this would be the flat piece of steel possible rattling, but a spring between it and the stock might solve that. |
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I had to picture what you where talking about but I figured it out. That doesn't sound like too bad of an idea.
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Quoted:
Also, if you can't tell already, this stock will not lock in place. I removed the actual dowel that is spring loaded and pushes into the buffer tube position holes. Until I can figure out how to work that, but for now, it's fine. I'm thinking about just drilling some holes into the bottom part of the buffer tube (not where the spring is) and just drilling a pin hole into the stock so you can place a cotter pin or something to lock it into place. A new video is uploading, so should be up soon. I still think this think looks WAY better than the Slide Fire. Have the buffer tube length adjustment milled out so that the detent in the stock keeps it on the tube but won't lock up, just slide freely back and forth in the area that the position holes are. problem easily solved, don't over think things. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I had to picture what you where talking about but I figured it out. That doesn't sound like too bad of an idea. Here is what I am thinking, just to make sure we are on the same page. With as good of cad work as I did, hopefully Magpul doesn't go after me for infringement lol. Normal, stock locked in place operation: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ExGN0HdljLA/T6Oh1erqiuI/AAAAAAAADew/-wD9qKYJXxQ/s680/normal.jpg Bumpfire operation: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L0Iy2Oo8zkM/T6Oh1LEAQWI/AAAAAAAADeo/eQ7oQQd8qQA/s680/bumpfire.jpg I like this idea, but it rattling loose under fire would be a problem. I know that the position handle would supply pressure, but unless it had a hook type end or a pin to insert into a coresponding hole in the handle I wouldn't trust it to hold. Quoted:
Here's an idea too. You could get a longer bolt for the rear bolt hole on the metal rod and drill out that second layer on the stock itself, then thread an extra nut on for back pressure, and run the longer bolt up til it locks the lever up. I'll try to MS Paint this. ETA: The second nut is to keep the metal bar tight against the stock. http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae167/Supergyro/slidefirepaint.jpg This would catch on clothing or skin while firing, not a good idea when it is going full tilt boogie. If you could incorporate it through the handle, but not outside the buttstock it would be cleaner and safer. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I had to picture what you where talking about but I figured it out. That doesn't sound like too bad of an idea. Here is what I am thinking, just to make sure we are on the same page. With as good of cad work as I did, hopefully Magpul doesn't go after me for infringement lol. Normal, stock locked in place operation: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ExGN0HdljLA/T6Oh1erqiuI/AAAAAAAADew/-wD9qKYJXxQ/s680/normal.jpg Bumpfire operation: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L0Iy2Oo8zkM/T6Oh1LEAQWI/AAAAAAAADeo/eQ7oQQd8qQA/s680/bumpfire.jpg I like this idea, but it rattling loose under fire would be a problem. I know that the position handle would supply pressure, but unless it had a hook type end or a pin to insert into a coresponding hole in the handle I wouldn't trust it to hold. Quoted:
Here's an idea too. You could get a longer bolt for the rear bolt hole on the metal rod and drill out that second layer on the stock itself, then thread an extra nut on for back pressure, and run the longer bolt up til it locks the lever up. I'll try to MS Paint this. ETA: The second nut is to keep the metal bar tight against the stock. http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae167/Supergyro/slidefirepaint.jpg This would catch on clothing or skin while firing, not a good idea when it is going full tilt boogie. If you could incorporate it through the handle, but not outside the buttstock it would be cleaner and safer. That was my worry. CFCNC's idea is better, I think, just harder to execute. |
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The only issue with CFCNC's idea that I can think of is that the screw will interfere with the buffer tube unless you mill out the buffer tube lock up holes.
I guess I could just dremil them out? |
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The only issue with CFCNC's idea that I can think of is that the screw will interfere with the buffer tube unless you mill out the buffer tube lock up holes. I guess I could just dremil them out? If you dremmel them out, just put the stock back to it's original configuration and it will keep it on and still slide back and forth with ease.... win win. The only downside is that this buffer tube is worthless for anything else, but it solves the problems you are facing. One other thing you could do is shave down the detent so that it won't make contact with the locking holes, but still keep it in the grove so it won't come off. |
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