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Posted: 3/29/2006 9:44:04 PM EDT
OK, I've done several rifles and pistols with Norrell's MolyResin now, and thought I had a pretty good hand on it. I recently ordered a new bottle of O.D. Green to shoot a new AR barrel, and do up a .22 pistol for a friend.

I prepped everything thoroughly, cleaning everything with Walmart carb cleaner, washed with water, and then baked it all BEFORE spraying. Then, I shot the paint without incident, and baked.

This is where I think I screwed up. I thought I'd bake it a little hotter, and a little longer to really get a good cure, so I baked them at 310 degrees for 70 minutes.

The problem is the color.

Instead of the nice, subdued, flat OD I have always gotten in the past, I have a bright, glossy OD green on both the barrel, and the pistol.

I don't know if it's a bad batch of Molyresin, or if my screwing around with the length and temp of the bake had something to do with it.

One other difference is, I used my wife's hairdryer to heat surfaces and insta-dry the paint during the painting process instead of the real shop heatgun I've always used in the past (it broke).

Somewhere, something went wrong.

Anyone have any clues?
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 3:47:24 AM EDT
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 3:53:17 AM EDT
Some of the matte colors, if baked too long or hot, take on a gloss finish.

In the case of the OD you're better off dropping the heat by 10 degrees and sticking to the 60 minutes.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 7:01:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/30/2006 7:05:17 AM EDT by Tread1]
I'm not stickman but I did stay at a Holiday Inn once

I have found that if you pre-heat the part too much you will get a fuzzy finish which when wiped off leaves a gloss finish.I think you got it too hot before spraying.


ETA:I found this in stickmans guide

A_Free_Man

I find if you heat the moly resin AND preheat the part to 300*F, the moly drys as soon as the droplets hit, and it results in a fuzzy finish that rubs off. Underneath is a semigloss finish.

I preheated to 170*F as that is as low as my oven will go. By the time I took the parts outside, I am sure they were down to 130*-140*. This worked out well.

The only time I've preheated to 300 degrees was to make sure all the grease and oils were out of an item. I have not tried to spray at the 300 degree mark, so I never would have known this! Thanks for passing it along, I think I'll stay with my hairdryer or lower temp methods. I find the product to be a matte finish anyway, especially if you are misting it onto your surface (using the flat finishes). Heavier coatings always tend to take on a bit of a sheen.

Link Posted: 3/30/2006 12:25:33 PM EDT
I sent Stickman a link to this thread. He is not logged in at this time.
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 12:48:44 PM EDT
Link Posted: 3/30/2006 4:53:00 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Stickman:
Heat it with a heatgun, and respray it, you will be fine. Remember to apply thin light coats, but in this case it sounds like the application difference is what caused the sheen.



+1 Stick's the man.
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 7:36:47 PM EDT
Thanks guys. I will snap some before and after shots. I don't know if my photog skills are adiquate to capture the subtle difference or not, but I'll try. Then I'll re-shoot the resin. I had already planned on doing this, and I thought I remembered the fuzzy-gloss aspect, but I wasn't sure.
I suspect that's exactly it. Previously, I had always applied with my old heat gun, and on both of these, I DID oven preheat at 300 degrees. It is quite a pronounced difference.
Thanks again for the help.
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 10:16:38 PM EDT
sorry to hijack the thread but it does concern molyresin so here it is, I remember Stickman posting a pic of a OD coated 1911 frame. I was wondering did u just use the same procedure as you did the others or did you have to sandblast, parkerize and then paint? I'm trying to paint a blued frame not stainless. Any ideas would be great! Thanks
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